Other Lighting Deals here, Starts 11th May.
Smart LED 8W Downlight $13.99.
Literally the information I came for. Thanks.
Looking at comments below not sure if it's clear these come in a white only model and another model which has the colours (see the 1st bullet point).
Good info! Wonder if they can be flashed..
Edit: Appears so! https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/13702180/redir
Be very careful. Purchased the Arlec equiv from bunnings. Units bought 18 months ago were 'cloudcutter' ok.
But units purchased recently (about 3 months ago) are not…
On the other side, at least you have the easy Aldi return in case!
I bought the Arlec multicolor downlight 2 weeks ago and was able to use cloudcutter and flash esphome.
@kackstelze: May have been older stock? Cant recall the exact versions off the top of my head, but the Tuya version installed on the newer one were later than the original I purchased.
Hopefully theyre better than the Bunnings Wiz ones that don't stay connected.
Sometimes these disconnect from network if you turn off power, but if you keep switch on and only operate with phone software then they are good
These will be good with tablet running home assistant and you just use only software commands to turn off or on(like voice, or tap or scheduling)
Means, if you set your desired colour and turn off the switch on the wall, you may or may not get it illuminated after free days in the same colour, they start blinking and set themselves in discovery mode
Yeah I have 4 Wiz ones in the bedroom that always lose connection even when not turned off - I 3d printed a switch cover and mounted a remote and control using home assistant.
Thanks for the heads up - i'll give them a go if I find them
Can also be the wifi access point you're using, dependent on the number of devices. I've found my tuya downlights to be pretty reliable though, connect to a Unifi AC-Pro. I don't think they are these current Aldi ones though, but the earlier ones they had made by Brilliant (do have some of these current ones sitting here to be installed too).
PS I did the same thing printing a cover to hold Hue Dimmer switches over my regular switches, only way to get the family (and visitors) to stop switching them off at the mains. Added Zigbee motion sensors to some rooms now though, if the FP2's weren't so expensive I'd fill the house with those and hopefully rarely need to use a light switch.
@bamzero: I think some WiZ do seem to have a disconnection problem, even with UniFi. I got fed up with my WiZ LED strip disconnecting, none of the fixes in that thread worked, I replaced the driver with a Tuya Zigbee driver. The WiZ driver was the only device that ever had that disconnection problem.
Have been using this for almost 5 years now. Replaced about 18 of them and all going strong. Great deal.
I hope you meant "installed 18 of them"!
No I meant replaced. Replaced with Builder installed one non-smart ones 😊
I installed around 30 of these and cant fault them. They just do what they should.
Are these compatible with the Philips Hue bridge?
No, Tuya based so each unit connects directly to wifi
Anything possible via Home Assistant?
There is a Tuya integration for Home Assistant.
Yes. I've got some similar Tuya downlights linked to HA and they turn on via a bluetooth motion sensor because my power switch is in a stupid spot.
Possibly via cloudcutter. Flash esphome firmware on it, integrates well with home assistant.
I wonder which one is better for a hacker!
Dumb question, but are all these downlights usually the same size? We have very similar looking ones, but there are no measurements/diameter on the ALDI website.
these downlights
which one?
Just confirm your cutout is 90mm (there is a chance it may be 70mm)
The trim looks pretty decent in most cases it should be fine if you are going led to led. if going from halogen frame to LED, you may be out 2-5mm and require slight touch up of paint if its an old house.
Suits 90mm cutout
there's different cutout sizes (70mm, 90mm, and I think 120mm), I believe 90mm is the most common, but always good to just measure it.
what is aldis obsession with not putting any tech/data in the listings?
eg
https://www.aldi.com.au/special-buys/special-buys-sat-11-may…
This looks like an okay buy assuming its circa 20w.
built in sensor, with a flex and plug and an inline switch.
I definitely could not build one for $25 by sourcing own components .
But whats the size? Whats the lumens? Whats the wattage?
Aldi: its a secret.
That's how they get you to go in store and have a look. Be prepared to punch on with some pensioners though.
And then line up at the only checkout that is open.
Most have self checkout now
DING DONG
Female robotic voice: "REGISTER 2 PLEASE"
@montorola: And then the staff member is stuffing around and it continues to harass you, I'm already in 2!
I’ve got my punching gloves ready.
Just pickup the punching gloves from the special buys section and use that lol
Gotta watch out for granny, she got a mean left right combo oos oos!
I had an argument with this old lady with a walking stick because she snatched a wetsuit from me and things got heated so I pushed her over but didn't hurt her. It was awkward seeing her at the cash register later.
I know, they don't even mention if they are ic-4 rated
In this day and age , surely it would be , I’ve kinda always been suss about how lifetime will be affected though with insulation over even if there was some sort of ntc function built in to ramp output in relation to heat.
I guess like Watchnerd said above, they just want you in the door and by gosh I am tempted
Did you go this morning & have a look?
Any smart switch to combo with these so they can be turned on and off at the wall, and the phone? Or just mount a few old IPads in each room?
A smart switch would need to be decoupled from its own relay to control these properly. That's totally possible with the right hardware and firmware, but not exactly common from factory products.
You can use a Shelly relay to enable both physical and wifi control.
I have many of these types and others installed. You can use usual wall switch to turn the lights on and off. Now many (not sayign these) are made that if you flip switch off and on multiple tmes in quick succession that resets the light connectivity. Of course, when wall switch has them turned off, the circuit is broken so you can't use the smart control features.
Yeh and when you have a power outage remember to switch off the wall switches until it's back and stable. One time the power came back but on and off quickly enough to reset all my lights.
Cheapest but not really easiest is probably a Zigbee stick + Ikea Rodret + Home Assistant
Once you get the zigbee stick and assuming something to run home assistant on, each extra room is like $10 for the Ikea remote.
does anyone know if they are GU10 socket compatible??
These arnt bulbs
I got smart lights that are GU10 compatible
One big question I have and have never figured out: I have a Home Assistant setup with an existing regular installation of downlights operated by light switches on the walls, what I'd imagine many have looking to make a similar upgrade. The lights are a straight switch over using the existing plug in the ceiling and cutout, easy, but what happens with the light switch?
Being wifi operated these lights rely on continuous power so the smart functionality becomes useless when someone turns the switch off. Likewise if you covered the light switch to stop people turning the switch off, how do people then use the lights in a conventional manner? What does everyone do in this situation?
Following this. Curious what people do here.
I use WiFi wall switches and WiFi smart bulbs. The wall switch is there so I can power the bulbs on and off using google home while the bulbs are there so I can adjust brightness and colour at will.
It does still require the bulbs to be switched on via the switch in order to adjust bulb settings but at least people in the house can physically turn off the lights at the switch and turn them back on using commands.
Which wifi switches are you using?
@nightelves: Generic Amazon ones. https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B09XHVXYZS/ref=ppx_yo_d…
I also use the Tp-link smart button with my TP-Link bulbs and wall monitoring sockets to control LED strips.
@CoreNex: Word of caution, as I understand many of these switches used overseas do not meet Australian code / standards.
Probably won't be issue most of the time, but make informed choice.
@fourofjacks: 100%, it is a risk when you run one of these unless they're purchased by a local distributor and have the correct certs provided.
If it's installed by a licensed electrician, you should be able to be confident that they're to standard. If your electrician refuses then it's your own risk.
Are these required to have a switch that breaks the circuit? Reason I ask is when we had some smart ceiling fans installed we were told the switch must stay so you can isolate them.
Personally I’d want the switch so when I’m away I know the lights are powered off completely.
@dan76n: I don't know if it's part of building code but I can understand why certain hardwired appliances like ceiling fans and air con systems would require a separate switch and/or fuse breakers. They can require high amounts of energy which might burn out the circuit if not isolated correctly.
For these wifi switches, they run off the ceiling light circuits in my place so technically they're on their own circuit when compared to wall outlets.
I have a bunch of the Connect SmartHome switches which as AU certified flashed with ESPhome.
https://connectsmarthome.com.au/product/connect-3-gang-smart…
Can set it up so the relay is always on for constant power and then have an automation to toggle the downlight.
Also have a Sonoff NSPanel to control the colours, however I don't think that is AU certified…
I just stick a zigbee remote in a convenient location. Could be next to the wall switch or on a desk. Thanks to HA the brand doesn't matter. I use mainly Xiaomi, Aqara, and Ikea remotes.
Are there remotes designed to sit on existing wall plates?
On top of the switch? I haven't seen that here, although you could stick an Ikea or Xiaomi remote onto a single gang switch as there's quite a bit of empty space.
You can stick a remote like this next to the existing wall switch with Command strips. It's large and easy to press, and looks good too.
You can get a smart relay type device such as a Shelly that gets wired behind your physical switch plate. Then you can setup the Shelly in detached mode where the physical operation of the light switch does not open/close the lighting circuit. This means that the smart downlights will always have permanent power going to them. Then you can program an automation in HA (or preferably in Shelly interface as it will still work if your HA is offline) to turn on/off the smart downlight when the Shelly sense the toggling of the physical switch.
Alternatively, the cheaper (but uglier) solution that doesn't required hiring an electrician is to tape over the switch to prevent others from cutting power to the light and then sticking a zigbee smart button next to the switch that can be used to toggle the light.
+1, highest WAF solution to this is Shelly in detached mode.
I've got this setup in my bathroom/toilet and ensuite/toilet, controlling lights, ceiling extractor fan and ceiling heating lamps.
Your bathroom is the one room in the house that guests will regularly operate your light switches in. This means they will often kill power to your smart lighting in this room.
For extra points instead of using a toggle style switch you can use a momentary style ("bell press") switch to toggle the lights, as the up/down location of the switch is meaningless in this setup and it's the toggle/press that matters.
It's impressive that in the instance that the light is toggled, the shelly relay picks up the toggle, sends an event to home assistant on my NUC via wifi, which sends an event to the Phillips hue zigbee controller over ethernet, which sends a command to the light via a zigbee mesh. I thought it would be delayed but it's done instantly. As time goes not he more impressed I get with home assistant and it's capabilities.
Agreed on this setup, it is what I'm planning on doing in my next home. The Shellys are expensive but great switches.
The light switch would still behave exactly as it did before. Basically you can consider the physical switch a "mains" or "hard" switch for on/off. Then you have a "soft" switch for on/off through the smart home platform. This turns your lights off but the communication equipment will continue to operate. Now of course this means if the light is physically switched off you won't be able to operate it via your smart home system.
For my real world example I have my kitchen pendant lights on a mains switch, we never touch the physical light switch as its set up to turn on when we arrive home(when home assistant sees one of our phones connect to the wifi) and then we turn them off using the Home app. If for whatever reason we want to use the physical switch it will still operate but once you get used to the system and have the smart features set up you'll find that you never touch the physical light switches.
Also as a redundancy I would look into a raspberry pi homebridge set up or something similar, this will allow you to host your hardware on your own "server" which means you have no reliance on the outside network, that means provided you have electricity and a working modem you can operate everything, even if you cannot connect outside your own network. Some smart devices completely crap the bed when you lose external internet.
I use DET902HA which are very similar to these (but I prefer the DETs as the power supply unit is in a separate box; I've found the units with the electronics above the LEDs tend to cook themselves).
I use in my rooms Sonoff NSPanels, flashed with ESPHome (not running Sonoff firmware). The downlights are powered from Relay 1. The physical buttons on the NSPanels work as soft-buttons, that tells Hass to tell the Wifi light to turn on. If Hass is down, the NSPanels fallback to the physical buttons toggling the relay. The downlights themselves I put ESPHome on and set a startup condition as follows:
on_boot:
priority: 600
then:
- light.turn_on:
id: downlight
color_mode: COLOR_TEMPERATURE
brightness: 90%
color_temperature: 4500K
transition_length: 8s
So the bottom line there is:
- If Hass is up and operating normally, the first button on the NSPanel turns the light on and off.
- If Hass or Wifi is down, then the first button on the NSPanel toggles the light on and off.
The only real downside is that if the power goes off and then comes back all these downlights come on :) I just setup a scene that turns them all off with one push if that happens.
I've been reading about this one, I'd love to have a setup based around Sonoff NSPanels but the one big question I have is around certification. I havent been able to find anything about Australian certification or any stores selling them here, without finding specifics I think I've got my answer.
Is there anything similar around an electrician would happily install? I think I already know the answer too!
Do these use a standard AU power point?
According to the description - yes
Thanks, I couldn't see it in the description at all.
It is going to be a warzone at the local Aldi when these go on sale? (If so, is there an equivalent product at Bunnings that they're likely to price match?)
Impromptu ozbargainer meetup in aisle 69
So these just plug into the powerpoint in the ceiling where my current downlights are?
Typically, unless your existing downlights are hardwired, which will mean you need a sparky to put a plug base in.
whats some real life application for needing smart vs dumb downlights? The ones at work keeps turning off whilst I'm pooping, super annoying.
That's your employer being pedantic about your poop time, with a timer.
whats some real life application for needing smart vs dumb downlights?
When set up properly they can turn themselves on and stay on while presence (not motion) is detected.
They can be set up so the colour goes more yellow as it approaches night time.
If they're in a bathroom or kitchen they can be set so if motion is detected after midnight, they'll turn on dimly rather than at full brightness so you don't get blinded when you go get a drink or pee.
They can be linked to your phone's location so if everybody leaves the house, all the lights (and aircon, fans, heaters etc) will switch off automatically.
One automation I have is that my bathroom lights and fan come on automatically via motion sensor. If it's late at night the light comes on at a dim orange instead of bright white
I need to add a smart light to the toilet along with a smart switch for the fan. Missus leaves the fan on after leaving, I want it to auto turn off but use a light being on as presence detection to delay it. Was planning to just use a plug in smart switch to keep it simple but the ones I have won't switch on by default when the mains is turned on.
Pressure sensors for the bed be another good addition, so when getting up in the middle of the night the bathroom lights come on automatically at a dim level.
Pressure sensors for the bed be another good addition, so when getting up in the middle of the night the bathroom lights come on automatically at a dim level.
I used to use my WiThings sleep mat for that, but have since switched to this ESP project. It responds much more quickly as it's fully local.
A WiFi light with only phone control is more of a PITA than anything. Where they really shine (no pun intended) is when you integrate them with a home automation system like Home Assistant.
One example in my living room I have smart downlights and a smart bulb in an uplight in the corner. The uplight pretty much runs automatically, turning on based on sun position and dimming later in the night. I dont need them all on so turning on the downlights will turn off the uplight and back on when downlights turn off, but again only during certain time of day. They can also be integrated with a media player, ie Kodi plays a movie and the lights auto dim or turn off, dim up when paused.
I also use some of the lights as indicators for things like the garage door being opened they will flash, or if the garage door gets forgotten open.
Does anyone actually find the RGB useful for room lighting?
Not for lighting, but I use an RGB bulb as a status indicator. e.g. when the alarm is on, the light goes red.
If you mount a vibration sensor on the bin you could set one of the lights to go green on bin day until the bin is moved.
If the garage door is open you can set one of the lights inside to go blue.
If you mount a vibration sensor on the bin you could set one of the lights to go green on bin day until the bin is moved.
Do you actually do this?
I don't as I live in a unit; if I was in a house I'd probably do it. I either read or watched a video where someone mentions doing it.
Anyone know if they are dimmable?
They'll be dimmable using the app but probably not via an existing hardwired dimmer.
Serious question, but can these lights be used to pulse to music?
Let's say I have a music night at my place, can I connect some app and it'll pulse to the music with discoey lights?
They don't have an inbuilt mic so won't sync to the music beat, no.
Yes, have 10 of these at home. You need to get the app. Group them in a room and then you can sync to music through your phone.
Have tried it, works well
App name please?
Tuya Smart
Hi,
Can anyone tell me when they would want to adjust the colour of their downlights? I get adjustable would be good for lamps but I don’t see why you’d want it for downlights.
Just buy the white only model then.
Tuya based/compatible for anyone looking to add them to an existing setup.