I received this email from Repco, seems like a decent price.
Great price, picked up 4 units when SCA had them for $22.50. Stealership knocks off about $30-50 every time I bring it in.
At any price this is far better than stealership bulk buy 20-50 oil. Yes, they do stick that crap in your expensive pride and joy!
i think you will find the dealers use fully synthetic Magnatec, this is only semi synthetic
Dealers generally only use full-synthetic if you ask them for it and if you like getting ripped off.
They won't use Magnatec Professional or anything fancy like that. As xywolap says, they probably use something of a lesser grade than semi-synth Magnatec.
not in the dealerships i worked in , they used fully Synthetic Magnatec
Oh no. Bought 2 from autobarn last week, $ 24.95 each.
Very cheap and very good. Comparable to many fully synthetic oil and compatible with most engines specifying a 5w-30 weight. Catalogue says max 3 per customer.
I'm not quite sure how a 10w-40 engine oil is compatible with 5w-30 one? They clearly have different specs. My car takes 5w-30 oil recommended by manufacture and i wouldn't put thicker 10w-40 one in for sure.
Yeah better not or your car might blow up.
Thanks for a very constructive and mature criticism.
I wonder what the make / model of this car is that "must" have 5-30???
I used this oil in a high quality motor for 10 years and it was like new when I sold it.
The API rating of oil is more important than the SAE grade which can be varied for the climatic conditions you drive in. Refer to your handbook!
It's not a case of "must" use, it's a case of "recommended" use by manufacture in the handbook and i think it's wise to take advice from people who's actually built the engine.
Hoxygt thank you for your reply. (My patience wears thin at this time of day) Magnetec is API SM rated so good for almost all modern cars. I am in the industry and have first hand experience with different oil types and different dealer servicing requirements and procedures.
I've expressed my opinion and if others want to be smart about it then we'll just let them use whatever they want.
If people like other oil then i'm happy for them …
those that have used this oil will be at the door on sat morning.
I used this oil for about 5 years in my old holden and it ran as well the day I sold it as the day I bought it . The crap valvoline that I used in my wifes car on the other hand …
Viscosity ratings, first digit is thickness it can protect during cold and 2nd digit thickness it can protect while hot before breaking down beyond that point.
legend xx = what ever hot number ie. 40, 50 or 60
Snow conditions -
Average cold australian southern states-
Queensland hotter places
My sports car manual recommended 5w-30, but its 23 years old so I use slightly thicker oil to help stop leaks around aging seals.. I run 10w-40 which is fine since Melbourne doesnt get as cold as Japan in winter, plus I've got extra hot protection with increase to 40..
So for Sydney no harm in running 10w-40, eventually one day when the car gets very old you will probably want to run thicker oil like me to slow down leaks.
As long as you have oil and dont overfill thats more important.
You are clueless. How does a 5W-30 and 10W-40 differ so much that it will affect your engine wear? The climate we have here nationwide means a 10W-40 is more flexible in all climates as opposed to a 5W-30. Australia doesn't get cold enough to justify the 5W cold wear as suggested by the manufacturer - and Sydney definitely doesn't get cold enough.
So many other external factors are taken into consideration when choosing which viscosity of oil; i.e. the weather temperature/climate, your engine wear/the age of the engine. Just because your manual says it is supposed to have a 5w-30 doesn't mean 10 years you still use the same viscosity oil.
I work in the industry of providing vehicles to the mining/civil sectors, and I can tell you none of our vehicles touch 5W-30 viscosity.
If you're so anal about it, I suggest you get a 0W-40 to cover your concerns, but for Pete's sake don't preach what you don't know.
Ah jay.mak, may i suggest you drink a tea spoon of 20w-60 oil to keep your hot temper down? There's no need for insult. My car is not 10 years old in your case, also not 23 yo in darkage's case (thanks mate, very clear explanation), it's a 3 years old car, so clearly highon2str's suggestion doesn't apply to mine and most young modern cars take 5w-30 recommended in general.
I also want to make it clear that i did not say "must" use 5w-30, I say it's best to use 5w-30 follow manufacture recommendation. I'm not an oil expert like you guys claimed to be but I sure have lots of common sense and good logic.
Lets not get too carried away with how good it is and if you do please link to evidence. Follow your car specs in the handbook, not peoples suggestions on forums. That said you may be able to use a heavier grade depending on weather conditions - http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=...
Good bargain compared to usual prices though, thanks :)
Damn, bought 2 from autopro 2 days ago. Looks like I'll need to buy another 2 from Repco to make myself feel better!
lol.. return them if you're as stingy as me
u waste fuel and time going back why bother, unless u hoarded a couple of 5L bottles
not a bad price for lube.
great price! think you can stack this with nrma discount?
T&C NRMA disc..
*10% discount available to current NRMA Members only who show their Member card in store and is not to be used in conjunction with any other offer
You just get cheapest price of the two, not stackable.
Looks like I'll be getting 3 bottles and in true oz bargain style, picking up a cheap navman for the old man. http://www.lasoo.com.au/offer/navman-my30-3-5---gps/4rpngkqk...
I used this on my 200k + 97 Magna and it started smoking. I use penrite hpr10 and doesn't smoke anymore. Good price though.
10-40 may be too fine a grade for a worn engine??
Well I thought so, but i haven't seen it leak 1 drop on drive way. But at the age of the vehicle is now I cant fault this oil just thought I would share my experience with it for other magna owners with same k's. Though Hpr10 doesn't have same effect and its same grade I think.
Magna smoking… #1 cause worn valve guides, #2 worn rings. Very common to be #1 and the use of a "thicker" oil will reduce the leak into the engine and therefore the "smoke".
Dripping oil onto the driveway has nothing to do whatsoever with engine smoke.
I don't know much about cars so you could be spot on. though for past 6 months after brother put Penrite Hpr10 which I took advice from this thread:
(I have several engines here I have changed which have been using Magnatec and they are smokey old things most with under 150k on them. There is another Magna Wrecker I sell a lot of motors to which have commented the same thing.
Have no idea why but for some reason motors with Magnatec in them seem to start blowing stem seal smoke, perhaps something in the oil is hardening the seals
There are a couple of Vic Forum members who have found the same thing, one in particular we flushed several times to try and reduce the smoke, is a KJ with under 200k on the clock
Personally I will only use Penrite, always have always will.)
Also could be stem seal valves that are gone but so far im ok with current oil.
That's Penrite > Castrol
This is cheap. However, Magnatec is not fully synthetic. I might stick with Castrol edge.
since when was this oil safe to use on petrol & diesel cars?
i have a feeling they are trying to flog off stock that went slightly wrong
can anyone comment on this because thats the first time i saw an oil that can be used in petrol+diesel engines
It's a multi-grade oil and as long as it meets or exceeds your car's SAE requirement it should be fine. Applies to diesel as well.
Most of the Castrol range can be used in both petrol and diesel cars. Easiest way to know is when you are looking at the API rating you will have something like SN/CF SN would be rating for petrol and CF will be the API rating for diesel.
This is so, because the new 'Low SAPS' diesels, require petrol oil (as its low SAPS).
They've already taken into account the lower protection level of the oil and built around that.
Though, yeah, if you have a diesel without a DieselParticulateFilter in the exhaust, I'd never run low SAPS if i could avoid it :P
Should this be fine in a auto Hyundai Excel?
If the motor is stuffed then no. K's?? engine cond??? Year???
99 Model 81,000kms
while you're at it, you might as well change the oil for Moots lol
Oh you ;)
Does anyone have the actual start date? Can I visit repco tomorrow and grab some?
"Castrol Magnatec 5L $19.99 @ Repco This Weekend"
Might grab some.
Re: smoking Magna - bad service history?
I've got a Laser with 219k on the clock, I bought it at 215 with no idea what oil it had in it, but there was a little bit of lifter tick. decided to experiment with 10w30 and see if a thinner oil would circulate better..
so far its stopped the lifter tick, and no smoke surprisingly!
not sure if ill go back to 10w40, engine doesn't seem to need the thicker oil
Not saying this is bad oil just that it didn't go well with my car. I know its old and probably will go to wreckers soon. I got brother to do service every 4 months ever since I saw smoke. Love my bro lol. Don't need to get dirty.
Alot of ppl suggest to run diesel oil thats compatible with petrol cars as well. Its got more detergents inside that generally clean perhaps run it on that for 5000km.
Catrol RX Super. You can probably look up results on this oil forum. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
great buy … I took the advices from the forum member few year back and my car (03 corolla) is still going strong after 220K
What advice? My 03 corolla is also going strong at 264K now and I still get 700km for a full tank :) I love toyota.
What corolla do you have and how many litres do you do to get 700kms? To only a few litres left or?
Consult your car's manual for the appropriate oil to use. Thicker oils are required in summer than winter. My car for example can use 10W30 in winter, but in ambient temperatures above 40C a 40 weight oil must be used.
Don't worry too much about Magnetec being not good enough. When servicing my Mitsubishi and Mercedes cars both manufacturers used Magnatec as standard during the warranty period and beyond.
New Oil, as long as its changed soon enough, will almost always protect an engine.
However, if you leave Magnatec in there for the full service interval, you'll be very unhappy with any Used Oil Analysis you get back, they have a LOT of wear.
Please read some threads (there are TONS) on BobIsTheOilGuy (BITOG) before deciding to use magnatec in anything 'important'. Seems to work OK in the leaf blower, chainsaw and mower OK though, I just wouldnt put it in my car.
Do your research before trusting brands ;)
I haven't heard anyone who's had to repair his engine just because he used Magnatec or any other quality mineral oil throughout the full service interval.
usually any higher quality oil than this is just for brag value… zero benefit.
Get your used oil and send it away for UOA.
If you havent done this before, to find the oil your car 'likes' I bet you have a lot of aluminium or iron in there.
Consider thats the ammount being worn away every oil chance, because you dont know the damages of using that same oil.
Down the track you find your car is smokey, due to burning oil, due to 'worn rings'. Why are the rings worn? You had oil in there!!! Turns out it wasnt the right weight (reguardless of vehicle manual specifcation), or good enough, and those few microns of iron wear from the piston walls slowly adds up.
The problem with a lot of entry level products in the oil field (this beign a prime example) is how quickly it sheers. Your car calls for 5w-30? by 5000km, its a 0w-20! So assuming your manual calls for a 10'000km change, you have half that time on oil thats too thin (generalising here).
If you plan to keep your car for a long time, the $60 or so that a UOA costs, to know you're running what your specific engine 'likes' is worth it.
And Delfredo, just because you havent heard of it, doesnt mean its not true.
Go talk to a few people on k20a.org who rebuild high K honda engines, freight companys who previously used cheap mineral in their fleets (note, minteral is not the problem there, its the addative package), or phone yellow cabs and ask if oil makes a difference to the service itervals and lengevity of their high kilometer vehicles. You'll have an enlightening chat.
Not targeting Magnatec with that above post, simply the 'this is good enough, anything else is a waste' idea. (though, I do think there is SOME point where that happens for a street car).
xywolap, if there is no benefit then why make others? If you already have the best and perfect product, a smart merketing company uses the money on proven research and sponsorship to get the brand out there, not on oil chemists to make 'pointless new blends'.
You honestly believe that an RX8 (rated at 5w-30, with a rotary based oil injection system), a Hyundai Excel (4cyl electronically controlled petrol), and a small diesel van (5w-30, low saps required, high compression Iron block engine) will all get identical protection from the same oil? JUST because its labeled as the same weight, and suitable?
Ive spent many years on BITOG, and other engine building sites to prove otherwise.
I dont want to sound like a dick at all, but honestly?
Show me the UOA's that PROVE that this oil protects my engine just as well as, say, Mobil1, or Castrol Edge SPORT Titanium (both oils with very good consistant UOA's) and I'll bow to defeat. I honestly doubt you'll be able to find this proof though, as i said, I'd like to think, as active as I am in the engine building and oil chemistry forums, I'd have seen it first.
For the Record, in my passenger cars, I run Supercheaps Caltex Fully Synthetic, which is rebadged Halvoline C7:
yes, the flow rates are a little thick for a passenger car (on the very high end to still class as a 5w-30), however I've gotten consistant good UOA's and boy is it cheap.
Castrol Magnatec 10W40 is as good as any other midrange semi-synthetic 10W40 oil. The large viscosity range can be detrimental if you want to have long drain intervals especially with harsh conditions, where a 10W30 semi-synthetic (or a fully synthetic) oil would be more appropriate.
Keen in mind BitOG is focused around North America with more extreme cold weather.
This is true. The Australians on there will often run one weight higher than specified due to our warmer climate.
Its far from a total american site though, quite a few aussies, and a LOT of germans.
MaterS … that statement is most likely the biggest load of utter pure B S..t I have ever read in my 20 years on the net and 45 years of servicing cars. Get a hobby my friend.
I have one. I just finished rebuilding a K20a3, K24a3 and a K20a2 engine. Currently about to rebuild a SR20.
You're a mechanic? What engines do you specialise in? I'm not going to deny that in a lot of low performance, high tolerance engines, you'd probably see no problems. Diesels and low compressions engines (anything below 7.5:1 I'd wager a guess).
But I'm deadly serious, please, take our most common 'australian passenger car' (the Ford Falcon).
Phone Yellow Cabs, and Black and White cabs, and ask for the mechanic and technical division.
Ask if oil choice on a regular passenger car, doing high KM's, affects their servicing costs and reliability. Go on!
What car do you have? I ask not for a 'mines better than yours' thing or anything, but simply so I can try find some UOA's to compare against yours, and prove my point.
Oh whats that? traces of Iron in your oil? wait untill it wears enough to give you ring problems, or worse, you misshift, over-rev and spin a dry bearing.
I'm willing to take this to the labs, I have proof of my claims. Do you have proof for calling my research bullshit? come on!
Hi Guys, Sorry I've no idea - will this work on my Toyota Camry 2007 (4cyl 2.4l Altise)
Thanks in advance
should be fine unless it has high k's like 150+ in which case get something thicker
use it in ours 80,000k, perfect. better than the bulk rubbish stealerships flog.
No free oil filter included this time. :(
Great find been using this oil on both my cars for over a year. even my mechanic uses it. Thanks!!!
Just bought, no issues with pricing etc, scanned 19.95 first go
Is there a link to this deal instead of an image? My local Repco has this for $50.
There is nothing about this sale on the Repco site.
Sorry, I only received an email. Although I picked up a couple this morning at this price and the same poster was on the door when I walked in. $50 is what you would pay for fully synthetic, this oil is normally $30 - $35.
Low stock in the small stores. I went with the gulf western oils. 16.99 and a repco filter for 7$ extra…
the 10-40 gulf western is semi synthetic as well….
nsw 2282 posters in shop and tons of stock
Went to Hoppers Crossing and was told it's sold out since this morning. :(
Thanks, got 1 from Midland WA, there was about 10 left at 130
OMG repco mascot has 120 bottles today and all sold out by this morning. Terrible.
The original price there is 42.99
Got mine at Ferntree Gully. Bought three bottles and then got to pick up the amazing Navman Deal for only $49. Repco seems to be really getting it together. Their offers are extraordinary, stores are looking great too. Very happy with my deals.
All trademarks and copyrights are owned by their respective owners.
Copyright © 2006-2013 OzBargain. ABN: 26 144 073 772