First PC Build - Thoughts on Specs?

Hi OzBargainers,

I've read many of the helpful PC build threads here and I was hoping for some input on my first build. I'm a student that's been saving for a bit and have decided that I'm going to start collecting components when they go on sale (I'm in no rush to get the PC built).

My proposed build is here, please let me know if it is necessary to also post it in a table/plaintext.

CPU Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-H170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
Storage Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (already bought)
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card Gigabyte G​TX 1060 6G​B ITX OC
Case NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit

I would be using it for word processing, moderate level photo editing, developing and of course gaming (specifically Rainbow Six). I would like to keep the budget around the $1200 mark for reference.

Queries I have:
1. Does this rig have enough processing power to run R6:S at a stable framerate? I've seen some benchmarks on youtube where it ran decently but I wanted to double check with the folks here.
2. Is 8GB of RAM enough these days and are the specs of RAM (except for DDRx) a concern?
3. Have I gone overkill with any of the components so far / are there better alternatives to components I have selected at the same price point?
4. Is it worth spending the extra few dollars to get the i5-6600 over the 6500? I do not plan on overclocking.
5. Are there any other concerns that you have?

Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • +15

    while 8gb is plenty right now 16gb has been showing up in some recommended specifications so better to get 16gb ddr4 as it cheap enough. e.g Battlefield 1 recommended spec is 16gb ram.
    http://www.game-debate.com/games/index.php?g_id=9002&game=Ba...

    this next one is optional but something to think about maybe go for a Power supply that is higher wattage with a 10 year warranty EVGA 750w G2 comes with 10 year warranty which is double the 5 year warranty the one you picked has.
    $45 more for 5 more years warranty not to mention it's 80+ gold rating.
    https://www.mwave.com.au/product/evga-supernova-750w-g2-80-g...

    You could offset the extra cost for the above by buying a windows key from [email protected] or any of the other sites like them. G2A is 22aud for windows 10

    • +3

      I concur about the 16GB aspect.
      However, since he is only using one slot for the 8GB RAM… he can add the second slot a little down the road if money is tight.

      • -2

        Adding second slot? Not recommended as you will most likely encounter hiccup here and there due to different timing, latency, etc. Upgrade to 16gb is what you will think about in the future, not adding second slot.

        • +1

          I've been running mixed memory for years, and only had an issue once, and that was immediately evident. Currently I have three different memory types in IIRC.

        • +2

          @macrocephalic:

          @Fikre

          When I say adding a second slot, I really meant putting a second stick into the second slot (which is available on MOST mobos).

          Running Dual-channel is cheaper than a single big stick. And in terms of performance, I would say Dual-stick is also (ever so slightly) better.

          The only reason to buy a Big Stick is if you're buying several of them for your system, and if you need all that memory (server? editing?).

          And as I've said before, get two identical sticks for best performance…. however, you usually won't have any trouble running different sticks.

          So thats why I suggested he can stay on with a SINGLE 8GB stick now, and get the same stick a bit later for 16GB total (or more if he requires).

    • +2

      Yeah I think I've decided that Dual channel 16GB is the general consensus and I'll fork out the extra 60 or so for it. As for the W10 key - is that one of those keys that can have potential issues down the track, as it is sourced from some sort of commercial licensing? Not much experience with buying Windows, I've always either used the pre-licensed OS that comes on laptops or pirated.

      • +2

        G2A can be shady. Wouldn't risk it, personally.

        • Yep G2A pretty much let credit card fraudsters straight through, if you're going to pay at least get it from a reputable dealer.

      • +1

        Regarding Windows licence. If you are a student check on offers available to you.

        For example I purchased a Win7 Pro licence for a discounted rate for my wife while she was in Uni (via Digital River, don't know if that's still a thing).

    • +3

      Nah, 520 Watt is actually overkill these days in a single GPU system. Seasonic is a top PSU brand. Looks fine.

      It's common to want the 16GB because it's cheap, I'd probably get it myself, but keep in mind that, to this day, very few games benefit from more than 4GB, and basically none benefit from 16GB over 8GB.

      Only in the last couple of months have some games been released where 8GB is even listed as a minimum requirement.

      I tried to find a recent article showing that whether these hogs benefit even 1% from 16GB, but just found lots of links back to the definitive set of tests from last year saying 8GB is more than enough (though they think crazy modding might benefit from more, they don't have any evidence):

      http://www.techspot.com/article/1043-8gb-vs-16gb-ram/page4.h...

      • you're not wrong, but Axelstrife did start their comment with "8gb is plenty right now" - the point being that it's not a bad idea to future proof a little when building a gaming PC

        • +1

          8Gb is plenty for games, but depending on what 'developing' means, it may not be enough. If theres any real CAD for example, 16gb minimum, 32gb recommended.

  • Just as an alternative (don't shoot the messenger), so besides the GPU & SSD, that build comes to about $825:

    This comes to $511.20 delivered.

    Leaves you $300 to upgrade the mobo ($71.20) & PSU ($135.20 for 80+ Gold 750W)

    All up, if you did it before the sale ends tonight, $511.20 + $71.20 + $135.20 + ($75 + $348) = $1140.60 (plus Windows…), put together and shipped to your door.

    • +1

      weaker cpu and something goes wrong you have to deal with them for warranty and send whole pc back to them lol
      It's a trap

      • +2

        I think its a good deal overall…. but if you build it yourself, you will DEFINITELY be more satisfied with the result and longevity.

      • Well if OP is going to upgrade the mobo and PSU, the only thing that I can see failing is the HDD and maybe RAM which will both likely be out of warranty by the time they fail anyway unless it's DoA(which isn't any less likely to happen if you buy the parts separately).

    • +2

      Definitely tempting. I don't think I have the impulse to buy it right now though, I'd like to keep researching for a bit and build my own PC - have the experience.

  • +8

    GTX 1060 user here, you can play pretty much any modern game in high settings @ 1080p @ 60hz.

    Just keep AA down to 2x or turn off SSAO for better performance at minimal quality reduction.

    • Great to hear. Quality has never been a major concern for me, happy enough to sacrifice it for stability.

      • +3

        Oh and get yourself a 120hz or 144hz display, somewhere down the road when you have money,
        It's boss. You will never ever return to 60hz again, I guarantee it.

        If you want one on the cheap, I'd suggest grabbing a Korean X-Star DP2414 on ebay.

        • Thanks for that. Probably will end up going the cheap Korean monitor and crossing my fingers.

        • Hi Just wondering about the X star you own
          the ebay listing says they cover bright pixels hows your monitor and did it have many dark pixels?

          how was the packaging when it arrived?

          Hope you can respond it's so much cheaper then Aussie stock 144hz monitors.
          Thanks

        • @Axelstrife:

          My monitor arrived with no dead pixels. I paid extra for Perfect Pixel policy (250 dollars, less $50 with a 20 percent voucher)

          However 2 months into owning it I noticed about 4 red pixels in a single line. location of these pixels are a little close to the middle of the display (let's say about 5 inches away from center). Noted that these are not bright pixels and are in fact stuck pixels, which according to Reddit and WP may resolve themselves over time.

          Its a bit of a disappointment but I'm not fussed as the red colored pixels don't stick out too much in movies or gaming. They are quite visible when web browsing (due to white background)

          The packaging was sufficient and the item was delivered by a courier (DHL) direct to my doorstep much earlier than the indicated date.

  • +1
    1. Your CPU is too powerful for your 1060. A 6400 would be enough. Definately no need to get the 6600.

    2. I would get a 650w PSU if possible. Gives you some room to upgrade in the future

    3. 8gb is enough for most games. But for example, Deus Ex Mankind Divided, 8gb often causes the game to either crash or stutter if put at very high texture/detail

    • I think I'll stick with the 6500, thanks for that. Not too concerned about the PSU but I may opt to go for the one suggested by Axelstrife if the cost isn't looking too bad. Decided to go with 16GB.

  • +1

    That is a very well balanced system, and balance is what people should be going for.

    The Core i5 6500 won't bottleneck the GTX 1060… but it will bottleneck a GTX 1080Ti.
    What this means for you?
    It means your system will run well, and it should serve you well as a PC gaming rig for many years to come.
    But you might get CPU bottlenecks at lower-resolutions (eg/ 1080p), on newer game engines/titles, and on faster GPUs (eg GTX 1170 and above).

    I am tempted to tell you: ditch the i5-6500 and go for the 6600K
    Simply because you won't have to worry about bottlenecks, there is overclocking which you never know if you'll need it later, and the extra CPU power will be well utilised for photo and video editing.

    After 4 years, you'll still be stuck on the now-current 1151 socket motherboard (which should see a new standard in late 2020).
    However, if you choose the 6500, and down the line experience cpu/gpu limitations you could upgrade these components.
    And you could upgrade to as far as these components:
    - Intel's Cannon Lake processors (eg/ Intel Core i7-7790K…or the cheaper Core i5-7570K)
    - Nvidia's Hawkings (?) architecture graphics (eg/ GTX 1280…. or the cheaper GTX 1260)

    • +1

      Thanks for the input. I'm hesitant to go for the 6600K, just because I don't really think it will be necessary for my use. Realistically anywhere I can cut costs is going to help me down the track and I'd also need to upgrade the motherboard anyway.

      • you'll obviously need to match the motherboard as well if you go down the 6600k route. It's a wonderful route though ;)

        • +1

          It's paying twice as much for much, much less than twice the performance and is completely unsuitable for this users requirements.

    • +10

      Overclocking because "you might need it later": terrible advice.

      • People said the same thing when it came to choose between the 2500 and 2500K.
        Some games have a minimum requirement of 2500K these days, where a regular 2500 won't suffice.

        I'm only telling it like how it is.
        I wouldn't want the OP to spend for more than what he needs.
        But I also wouldn't want him to have any buyer's remorse.

        • +2

          Those minimum requirements are usually bunk. I still run a i7 920 and it can handle BF1 with ease, even though it's way below the 6600K minimum spec.

        • +1

          @cheng2008:
          You do have a point.

        • @cheng2008: I'll second this, ran just fine on my old i5-750

        • for what res though?

        • @T1OOO: 1080p but I have no doubt 1440p will be fine also

        • @cheng2008:

          If u don't mind can you show me a game that the min CPU for is a 2500k @ 1080p?

          I find it hard to believe coz at that res most cards are over kill in any event.

          I don't think there has been dramatic improvement in the x500 series CPUs over the last 6 years

        • @T1OOO: that's what I'm saying, most CPUs are overkill these days for games

        • @T1OOO:

          higher the res, the bottleneck moves from the CPU to the GPU.

    • +1

      I agree with this. Sure, OP will save some money on the build but in the long run the 6600K will be a better deal as it will not only outlast the 6500(in terms of needing to upgrade) but will also provide a better performance on a bunch of different things other than but including playing some games.

      Also, if I could give you a piece of advice would be this, there are a few parts that I choose to spend a bit more when buying because I know they'll outlast everything else since I know I can transfer them into my next build. The biggest 2 are the PSU and the case. No point on saving $20-30 on something like that… it more than pays for itself over the years.

      On the PSU side of things though, well… that's a somewhat personal choice. I like to make my builds as upgradable as possible and at the same time as efficient as possible (and quiet!). So I went with a Seasonic a while back but I chose their Platinum PSU which when applied correctly means lower power bills, lower temps, etc. Realistically, with what you have on your build, you could probably get away with a 450W PSU but I'd go with their SS-660XP2. Yes, it costs more but read the reviews and you'll see it's bullet proof and incredibly energy efficient (and quiet). I currently have the SS760XP2 which is an overkill on my current rig… but I've had this PSU for a long time now and used it on my last 3 builds with ZERO issues. On top of saving you when it comes to electricity, it also allows you more than enough room to either get a better GPU, overclock and etc in the future, even running all that and SLI will be fine.

      • +1

        Yes, sound advice.
        I think what might help the OP and everyone else here, is if we list the items in a PC which are upgradeable/interchangeable from easiest to hardest/expensivest/least necessary.

        • 1 - Software
          (duh, download, install, uninstall as desired)
        • 2 - Accessories such as Keyboard, Mouse, Headphone/Speakers, Webcams, Disk drives
          (Accessories, Mostly plug n play, May not work with certain drivers or opsystems)
        • 3 - Display
          (Almost all display's work, but some won't such as a 4K or 144Hz monitor on a weak system. Or the extra features like USB hub on the display. Also Gsync/Freesync requires a compatible gpu to work)
        • 4 - OS
          (Windows XP/7/10, Hackintosh, Android, Linux distro… usually straight forward, but initial install could be a huge pain. Things get complicated when you move to multi/dual-booting route.)
        • 5 - RAM
          (Practically plug n play, but for good results you want a dual channel setup with both sticks being identical speed, capacity and even same model)
        • 6 - HDD/SSD
          (This is again straight forward, unless you have to move your OS licence from one drive to a new drive which can be complicated)
        • 7 - Cooling Fans
          (Very straight-forward but there's little reason to change these. You aren't going to gain +20 fps with that new shiny RGB fan)
        • 8 - GPU
          (Quite straight forward. Driver issues could be a problem. Power supply could be a problem. Not fitting into case could be a problem.)

        • 9 - Case
          (Nothing high-tech about it. It holds everything together. It should last you decades. No need to upgrade if youre happy with your current one, and fitting your current rig into a new case could be problematic depending on mobo, cable management, component sizing, and thermals.)
        • 10 - PSU
          (A good PSU should last you a decade. A great PSU should outlast its owner.)
        • 11 - CPU
          (Its best to start with a CPU you need, rather than getting a weak system with the intent of upgrading it later. Compatibility with the mobo bios may be faced. Also the need for thermal paste and a new cpu fan necessary. The OS may also not recognise the new CPU, and may ask for a new OS-license.)
        • 12 - Mobo
          (This is what everything is connected to, and talks to in the entire PC. It's not advised to change this. Compatibility issues may arise.)
        • 13 - Watercooling
          (Besides creating programs, or hacking OSX/Linux to your system… this is the most complicated thing you can do on your PC. It is risky. Custom water cooling solutions can leak and destroy your investment. Standard water coolings with guarantees can explode without warning and kill your system. You see a pattern here? Don't go water cooling unless you do it professionally, and have daily cloud backup solutions in place.)
        • Not sure I agree with your point about watercooling. Historically you would be correct but the modern AIO systems are as easy as changing out a standard cooling fan. The NZXT X30 would go well in the S340

    • No a 6500 won't bottleneck a 1080Ti. If you're not overclocking, the difference between 6500 and 6600k is too little to make a meaningful difference

    • +1

      Given that budget is a concern, swapping to a Z series motherboard which is capable of overclocking non-K processors (The Asrock Pro4M can be had for ~$150) is probably a better option than getting a K series processor. I'm currently running a i5-6400 at 4.3Ghz off the back of a similar setup.

  • +1

    I'll always dual-channel memory, ditch the single stick. 8GB is fine, but 16GB isn't all that much more, so go for that.

    I'd wait a few months for Kaby Lake if you're not in a rush.

    • I have decided to go for 16GB. The new Kaby Lakes - would they really be that much of a benefit over the i5 6500? Just doing a quick google it seems a bit unclear when they will be released. Based on previous generation hops would they be much more expensive at first compared to the previous gen?

      • +2

        Just from googling I can already tell Kaby Lake is not a signficant improvement from the current Skylake gen.

        You can think of it as Skylake Version 2.0, which is a refresh of current chips and there won't be any large changes to warrant a new type of socket or motherboard.

        Intel is just updating the current architecture for better HEVC 4k media playback and better iGPU performance, but don't expect much improvement on IPC (instructions per clock).

        • Yeah it's the second tock not a new tick. Think of it kinda like the iPhone 6,6s and 7 which is really the iPhone 6s mark 2.

      • It's not a big jump, but if you're not in a hurry, might as well buy that over an 11 month old CPU. It's usually a bad call to buy end of life components unless affordability is a significant factor

        • I doubt kaby lake desktop CPUs will be out b4 the end of year.

  • Get 16gb of ram

  • Good choice on 16 GB. I would prefer 2 x 8 gb as dual channel. It will make a difference in gaming.

    • +1

      It will make a difference in gaming.

      Not much of one. As in you won't notice it.

  • +4

    I guess I echo what everyone has already said about the 16gb ram, but my own two cents:

    1.) S340 is an excellent case. The only other option I'd throw out there which is in a similar price range is the Phanteks P400s. Pros and cons with each one, but you can't really lose whichever way you go

    2.) Good choice on PSU. Seasonic is rock solid and for what you're going for, the 520W looks well suited to what you're after

    3.) CPU + chipset choice makes good sense. My personal preference is something from MSi or Asus, but that's just from an aesthetics/brand loyalty bias. The Gigabyte one you picked offers great value for money. Also it's not worth the extra money for the 6600 vs 6500

    4.) Ditto for the GPU. 1060 6gb, especially the Gigabyte variant is sitting in the sweet spot for frames to dollars. Vulcan may throw this out in certain titles, but it's the best all around 1080p card for the money IMO

    5.) SSD and HDD are good value choices. I'd have gone Evo 850 and WD black, but that's more a personal preference. You certainly won't notice any performance difference with the rest of the hardware

    6.) Are you sticking with the stock cooler? The only other thing i might recommend is a CM Hyper 212x, but that's purely because I value a nice quiet PC, and the stock cooler can get a bit noisy under load. You're not going for a K processor so you don't really need to worry about thermals.

    7.) Can you wait until Kaby Lake drops? Might be able to snag some better prices on the cpu and mobos once the replacement is out

    Overall though a very sensible and well thought out value for money build

    • +1

      Also just realised that you have a mATX mobo. If you value a quiet PC, I can thoroughly recommend the CM Silencio 352. I have my 3770 in it and it's dead silent. Also quite compact and pretty good looking IMO.

      It will also fit a Hyper 212x cooler - the bump on the side is just enough to fit the ~155mm cooler height

      http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mini-tower/silencio352/

      • +1

        I'll have a look into this in the morning. Thanks!

        • Oh, plus it has a built in card reader in the front and a USB 2.0 port in addition to the 2x USB 3.0 ports. The S340 and P400s only have 2x USB 3.0 ports

    • +1

      Thanks for the extensive input. I think I've been convinced to change the PSU to the EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply just for some leeway in upgrading. It isn't much more expensive. Realistically with the SSD and HDD I'll just go with whatever is cheapest. I think I will be sticking with the stock cooler, at least at first. I would like to have the build completed by Christmas so I guess it's all up to the release date in regards to Kaby Lake.

      • 650W will give you headroom for a more powerful GPU later on. Or if you decide to get a K CPU and new mobo. Either way you'll be fine.

        Yeah the stock cooler will be fine. If you get a silent case like the Silencio 352 I linked then that'll probably make it quiet enough anyway. Unless you really don't care, but I personally hate loud pcs. My old computer sounded like a vacuum cleaner that was constantly jammed

      • +4

        There is zero reason to do that. It won't give you leeway for upgrading since you have no idea what you will upgrade to so it's a waste of money. It does nothing at all to system performance.

        On a budget build like this spending money on pointless power supplies is crazy.

        Buy a 500W Bronze PSU such as Corsair CX500 for $80

        • Thanks for that. I'm just going to keep my original PSU, as seasonic is highly regarded and it's fully modular.

        • @bananabendera: I'd go with the Seasonic but try to fit a gold one at least… like it's been said before, this is a part that will be with you for a decade should things go right. That's 10 years of it paying for itself by using less energy. Also, 650 will allow you complete freedom to upgrade to whatever you want down the track. Worth the pain of spending a bit more now or saving for a little longer

  • One thing you should look at is the 1tb hdd. Although addequet it will fill up very quickly with gaming and photo editing.

    • +1

      Thanks for the input. I may look at getting more further down the track but it doesn't concern me enough currently to warrant upgrading.

    • +1

      HDDs are easy to add later on, especially for non-OS files/apps etc. 1tb will suffice for a few months at least until he knows what his next priority will be for future upgrading

  • On my old computer, 8gb was a very limiting factor (i5 3570k, gtx 670). I added another 16gb of RAM and the FPS increase and loading speed was very noticeable.

    I would also recommend that on your build so far, if you can spare the money, go better then a 1060. I would say you ultimately want a GTX 1070 or greater. My 670 build lasted about 4 or 5 years. More you spend the longer it lasts.

    It also depends what monitor you get and what sort of FPS you want (ie whether you want a 60hz or a 144 hz monitor.

    I personally have a 1440p 144hz monitor, i7 6700k OC to 5.0Ghz, GTX 1080, 32gb of RAM, all watercooled. I will probably add another GTX 1080 soon.

    • +3

      I would say you ultimately want a GTX 1070 or greater. My 670 build lasted about 4 or 5 years. More you spend the longer it lasts.

      I'd say if the 1060 fulfills OPs requirements for at least the next two years, it'd be better spending the extra ~$150+ then. You'd buy more performance (and half a 1060 tier card) for your dollar later on than you would now.

    • 1070 would be great but that's a significant jump in price. Thanks for the input. If only I could have two 1080s haha.

    • Which M/B are you using? I have a 6700k but not able to go past 4.7Ghz. I run it stable at 4.6Ghz @1.24V adaptive. Temperature is not an issue as it runs quite cool with my setup.

      My specs:

      Monitor: ASUS PG278Q ROG Swift
      Case: Corsair Obsidian 450D Mid Tower Case with Window
      CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K
      Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H110i GTX 280mm Liquid CPU Cooler
      MB: ASUS Maximus VIII Hero Motherboard
      VC: EVGA Clasiffied GeForce GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6GB
      Mem: G.Skill Trident Z F4-3200C16D-16GTZB 16GB
      HD: Samsung 950 Pro Series 512GB M.2 SSD
      WD 3TB 3.5 Inch Caviar Black Internal Hard
      PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80 Plus Platinum Power Supply
      USB: Corsair Flash Voyager GT 32GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive
      KB: Logitech G910 Orion Spark
      Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum

      • My motherboard is the MSI Z170A-Gaming Pro Carbon Motherboard.
        You may have just gotten unlucky with an average CPU and I may have gotten lucky with a good CPU.
        Under load at 5.0Ghz, my CPU hits 55 degrees.

  • +2

    Get a colour monitor. B&W is good but colour (IMHO) will be the next best thing. In 10 years time I reckon most computers will be sold with a colour monitor.

    • +2

      Dunno about that? I'd put my money into a 3.5" disk drive. Those things are much faster and hold more than the floppy floppies!

  • +1

    Hi everyone, just a quick update. First of all thanks for the awesome contributions you've all made, it's been very helpful. At the moment my build is the same as my original, except I've gone with the 16GB of RAM and I've taken the OS out of budget. I'll figure out what do with the OS after I have the components. I guess the only component I have any issue with at this point is the PSU.

    I'm inclined to stay with the original 520W seasonic which is 80+ Bronze. Is it worth the extra money to get the 'Gold' efficiency or more wattage? Furthermore is it worth paying extra for the fully-modular PSU or is semi-modular sufficient?

    • +4

      A modular power supply is only 'cool' at the time you go to build the PC. After you're done with all the cable management and closed the case up, it makes no difference, except now you have to keep those unused modular cables in case one day you need them due to added hardware. A non-modular power supply just means more tied up cables inside the case, but usually you can have them all out of the way and forgotten about anyway. At least they're all there if you need them. Just one cable tie snip away from being freed. On a budget build, where you're going for function over sounding/looking cool, I'd suggest a non-modular power supply. I've got the S340 case, plenty of room to hide cables, NZXT has great cable management features and room.

      Also as a rough guess, your build only stands to use about 350w, being generous. So anything over 500w is already overkill. Sure, everyone argues 'future proof' or in case you wanna upgrade, but there is a large focus on power efficiency lately, so it's unlikely that you will want to upgrade to a card that is going to use an additional 150w of power.

      PSU efficiency makes a very small difference. Likely only to be noticed (or not noticed) over a few years of power bills if the PC was left on 24/7.

      My suggestion would be on a 500w Bronze rated PSU, here at work we love using Silverstone PSUs in our builds. No major issues.

      Good move on the 16GB of RAM. Likely will be utilised in the next year or so of new game releases.

      • Thanks for the suggestions. I think I've been swayed enough to opt for a cheaper PSU.

      • Agree with 90% of that… I have tested back to back, the same PC with a 500w bronze vs a 760w Platinum and the difference is more than noticeable. The whole PC used around 400w so the bronze PSU was pushing more than 50% most of the time whilst the Platinum was not only more efficient but it was almost never over 50%. For those not in the know, most PSUs are most efficient at around 50%.

    • +2

      With Windows 10, check here:

      http://onthehub.com/download/free-software/windows-10-educat...

      Since you're a student, you might be able to get free Windows 10 student version through your Uni/TAFE/education provider.


      Alternatively you can buy through a cd key site like G2A which costs around $50 AUD:

      https://www.g2a.com/microsoft-windows-10-pro-cd-key-global.h...

  • +1

    Good build overall. Only one recommendation - get 1070 over 1060.
    1070 is so far the most cost effective card, and it's absolutely not overkill. Not to mention it's the entry level of VR ready card.

    The CPU is good enough.
    The 8GB memory is good enough.

    • +1

      I agree that the 1070 would be nice, but I guess it boils down to how lucky I get with the timing of sales on the other components. I would be happy with the 1060.

      • 1060 is a cracker of a card… no one needs more than that for 1080p

  • +1

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Type Item Price
    CPU Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor $268.00 @ Centre Com
    CPU Cooler be quiet! Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler $89.00 @ PCCaseGear
    Motherboard MSI B150M PRO-VDH Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $115.00 @ Shopping Express
    Memory Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory $105.00 @ CPL Online
    Storage Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $65.00 @ IJK
    Video Card Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card $649.00 @ Shopping Express
    Case NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $105.00 @ CPL Online
    Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $129.00 @ CPL Online
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total $1525.00
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-11 11:41 AEDT+1100
    • Is the non-stock CPU cooler really necessary? Just trying to save on costs here. The motherboard you've selected - is the 'downgrade' in price really worth it? I think I'd just like to go with a cheaper PSU now, ~$80.

      • +1

        You don't need the CPU cooler and certainly not the Dark Rock 3 in your build. It's overkill. It is nice to have an aftermarket cooler though and does a significantly better job than the stock one. If you can spare $55 I'd recommend this one: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33457/cryorig-h7-cpu-coo...

      • +1

        Difference is h170 chipset have DMI2.0 and B150 chipset have DMI 3.0.

        Both of these chipset doesn't support cpu overclock. Only main difference is B150 only have 1 PCIe 3.0 lane which all you need for 1 GPU or unless you planning running two GPU or PIC-E SSD in future.

        NZXT S340 doesn't come with two front fans , so you want yours tower to have good airflow and typically 120mm fans cost from $15-$30 each.

        Dark rock 3 is one of to best open air cooler and have low fan noise. Intel stock fan are known for there loudness when running hot :).

        Rainbow Six running 1060 avg is 55fps at max settings and 1070 avg is 100fps on 1080p. More games will come out on direct x12 and vulkan so better to have 1070.

        Tip; avoid getting tier 4 and tier 5 cheap quality PSUs http://i.imgur.com/tgrbCnr.jpg

      • +1

        I think kyochi's advice is sound. Normal intel stock coolers are a bit inadequate and whine loudly when they are spinning too fast + definitely don't cheap out on either PSU or MOBO because **** gets expensive when they fry.

  • +1

    Wait for AMD Zen
    Intel might drop their monopolist price

    • +2

      The golden rule is always to wait, but you can only wait so long.

      • It's a major one, AMD havent release a major series for a while

        • Don't fall for the hype.

          These companies do not exist for charity purposes. If the product is good, it will be expensive, especially when company is smaller than the competition. It will hurt the small company more if it tries to control prices.

          I think he should buy it now, if he needs it now.

        • @nushydude:
          Did you ever heard of Competitive free market to eliminate Capitalistic Monopoly by providing low-profit product?

          Yes, buy now if you REALLY Need it.

        • @rodinthink:

          Like what AMD did with the RX480? It didn't really go as well as they expected I bet. NVidia released a competitive product at the same price with more volume (i.e. GTX 1060).

  • +4

    I have a Win7 Pro 64-bit key for free if you want.

  • +1

    I would go for the Sapphire Radeon RX 480 Nitro+ 8GB instead. DX12 + Vulkan. Drivers are good and quite stable, despite the persistent stigma.

    Windows OS from microsoftswap reddit. Don't buy components from different stores, get all from one. For each you pay shipping + dealing with multiple customer service in case any issues. Recommend Mwave, PCCG.

    • +2

      Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have to think a bit further in regards to the GPU but I think I'll just end up going with the 1060 (depending on discounts). Will definitely have a look at the microsftsoftwareswap reddit page.

  • +2

    Your choices show good research and respect for value.

    1. Does this rig have enough processing power to run R6:S at a stable framerate? I've seen some benchmarks on youtube where it ran decently but I wanted to double check with the folks here.

    Yes, you will have no problems as long as you run it on 1080P.

    1. Is 8GB of RAM enough these days and are the specs of RAM (except for DDRx) a concern?

    Yes it is enough gaming and your stated needs, but can be your systems bottleneck. Ram is cheap and easy to future proof. Please bite the bullet on this and buy dual channel 16gb kit. if you are like me and open many chrome tabs and do alot of copy and pasting, you will need more than 8.

    1. Have I gone overkill with any of the components so far / are there better alternatives to components I have selected at the same price point?

    No, you have a balanced system. Modest and not overboard.

    1. Is it worth spending the extra few dollars to get the i5-6600 over the 6500? I do not plan on overclocking.

    No.

    1. Are there any other concerns that you have?

    Ram, and make sure you are talking about playing on a 1080p screen. 1440p and you might need something else to run your game on high smoothly.

    Also, if you are a "set & forget" type when it comes to PCs, please just go ahead with your build. alot of the advice here is coming from an enthusiast perspective.

    • +1

      Yeah I'll definitely be sticking to 1080p. Thankyou for the advice!

  • Very nice and balanced spec. Will last you for years to come.

    Do consider going for a mini-itx setup. For your current spec it will be best matched and most likely reduce the cost of your mobo and case. Everything else can stay.

    Case : Thermaltake v1
    Mobo : Asus h110i Plus

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