First PC Build - Thoughts on Specs?

Hi OzBargainers,

I've read many of the helpful PC build threads here and I was hoping for some input on my first build. I'm a student that's been saving for a bit and have decided that I'm going to start collecting components when they go on sale (I'm in no rush to get the PC built).

My proposed build is here, please let me know if it is necessary to also post it in a table/plaintext.

CPU Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-H170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
Storage Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (already bought)
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card Gigabyte G​TX 1060 6G​B ITX OC
Case NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit

I would be using it for word processing, moderate level photo editing, developing and of course gaming (specifically Rainbow Six). I would like to keep the budget around the $1200 mark for reference.

Queries I have:
1. Does this rig have enough processing power to run R6:S at a stable framerate? I've seen some benchmarks on youtube where it ran decently but I wanted to double check with the folks here.
2. Is 8GB of RAM enough these days and are the specs of RAM (except for DDRx) a concern?
3. Have I gone overkill with any of the components so far / are there better alternatives to components I have selected at the same price point?
4. Is it worth spending the extra few dollars to get the i5-6600 over the 6500? I do not plan on overclocking.
5. Are there any other concerns that you have?

Thanks in advance!


    • Thanks for the suggestion, however I think I'll just stick with what I have right now. not a massive price difference and I don't see many pros/cons.

  • +2

    Have the same setup but different motherboard and more ram. If you want to save some cash on the power supply, I went with the SilverStone ST50F-ES 500W PSU 80+. Best value for the price and still quality. Not modular though.

    I also have a much cheaper case.

    • Honestly I'm conflicted with the PSU. Thanks for the advice. What do you use your rig for? Does it run well?

      • Browsing and gaming only.

      • Hi banan,

        I recently built my first PC too, and I agonized ages over the PSU as well. Like you, I read from everyone, get a good branded one. In the end, after reading some other websites and whirlpool, I went with the silverstone mentioned by vita as well. It seems like the best balance between value and reliability that is recommended by toms hardware PSU tier list.

        So if value is a main concern( which it was for me) and u don't plan on upgrading any time soon (which I ddont). I think the 500w silverstone is fine.

        Be aware, I know not much, other than some recent reading and a recent build.

  • +1

    Think your parts list could be a bit tighter. Look at mine - semi-modular PSU, changed the mobo for something more cost effective, and just a different 1060, all with dual channel 16gb ram. But on the whole, looks pretty good to me.

    If you do some hunting for second hand, it'll bring your costs down lower, and if you wait for solid ebay deals (e.g. 20% off).

    • I agree it could be tighter. I didn't have a specific look at mobos, just the 'types' (b,h,z etc) and chose one based on cost/reviews. Any suggestions?

  • +1

    Geforce have a performance guide for R6, albeit with last gen hardware..

    "Rainbow Six: Siege is mainly a GPU-bound title. In order to find out how this game performed on older CPUs, we simulated a dual-core CPU…. The game does not require a high-end CPU to run"

    If I had your budget I would try to squeeze in the GTX 1070, even if it means getting a cheaper I3 CPU and boring mobo. Go with 8Gb RAM and check your usage, you'll probably be fine. If not it's always an easy fix later. Just make sure you have a spare memory slot. Also I wouldn't bother with bronze PSU's. Inefficient PSU's means cheaper parts means your risking your nice PC. A good PSU will last you forever.

    • Torn between PSUs currently. However I do want a gtx 1070, just can't really find a way to squeeze it in the budget (I don't want to downgrade processors).

  • +1

    You're getting great feedback here.

    I recommend also looking at the Whirlpool PC Suggestions pages. It's a great wiki of PC build configurations "maintained by a small group of knowledgeable Whirlpool regulars"

    Build configurations represent what is considered to be the best value at the time. Price and performance are the primary factors, with aesthetics as a secondary consideration

    • +1

      Thanks for that. Cant believe I didn't think to check whirlpool. Their build in the same budget bracket as mine is essentially the same as the one I've put together. You're right about the feedback, it's been great.

  • +1

    Windows could be free/heavily discounted if you are a student through one of Microsoft's programs(like dreamspark). Check with your Uni's IT department.

  • +1

    I recently built this myself about 2 weeks ago finding best deals on parts. First upgrade in over 6 years

    CPU: i7 6700k
    Cooler: Noctua NH-D15
    M/B: Z170-AR
    Case/PSU: Existing
    RAM: 16GB DDR4 (2x8)
    Vid: EVGA SC 1070 GTX from Amazon
    Monitor: XB271HU 27" 1440p G-Sync 160hz (sold my dell 30")
    Mouse: Logitech G900
    K/B: Existing
    OS: Moved over my existing Windows 10 64bit license
    Drives: Existing

    Total cost about 2.4k. Works awesomely

  • +1

    16GB is a must imo since your gaming. If you dont want to close everything when u game all the time which is annoying.

  • +1

    budget build for around 1.2-1.3k with windows 10
    spec summary: i5 6600, 1060 6gb, 16gb ddr4 ram, 2tb hhd, dvd, 600w (80+) psu and case (slick case with a window!)
    You are going to love it!

    Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor
    $298.00 $298.00 Shopping Express

    Asus H110M-E Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
    $79.00 $79.00 Shopping Express

    G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
    $99.00 $99.00 Mwave Australia


    Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (ready got)

    Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
    $96.00 $96.00 Umart

    Video Card

    EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card
    $385.00 $385.00 Umart
    Case + PSU

    Thermaltake Versa N21 ATX Mid Tower Case +600w (80+)
    $129.00 $129.00 MSY

    Optical Drive

    LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer
    $19.00 $19.00 CPL Online

    Operating System

    Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
    $129.00 $129.00 IJK

  • I'm coming back just to see if OP has decided to get 1070… please do…

    • Why do you care so much? It shouldn't affect you either way…

    • It isn't really necessary for me, I'll sell the 1060 off second hand in the future and upgrade if I need to. I wish I could go the 1070 straight up too.

  • I'd probably go for a 2TB HDD. Steam can easily chew up 250gb+ gigs even without installing any of those 50+ gig games. Which are going to be much more common as digital distribution will help pass the size limitations of DVD media.

    And be sure to get someone to build the PC for you.

    • "Get someone to build the PC for you" - Really? I don't think that's necessary. As previously stated I'll upgrade storage if needed in the future, could even slap some old 2.5 inch laptop drives in the computer if I need.

  • +2

    I wouldn't recommend slowly collecting parts over time. Some parts just don't ever have sales (PSU's, mobo's, cases etc). Also, if you wait too long to collect parts, it makes returning things under warranty a bit more complicated.

    The only parts you might see sales on would be graphics cards, storage, cpu's occasionally and monitors. Once you buy all those during sales, make sure to buy everything else ASAP.

    • The SSD, Graphics and CPU are what I'm waiting for to go on sale. Kicking myself as the GTX 1060 6GB was a great price the night I made this thread :( The rest I have sitting in a umart online cart right now.

      • +1

        Also replying to your queries:

        1. Assuming you're using a 1080p monitor, your pc will play be more than capable to play RS:S

        2. I use a similar tier computer to your proposed build, but 2 years older. 4670k and 280x and 8GB of ram. I find it can do everything you are planning on doing. Start with 8GB of ram now, and if you need it, just buy another 8GB stick later.

        3. They're pretty balanced.

        4. It's a linear 10% increase in performance for a 10% increase in price. Personally I would get the 6600. It would save you upgrading for another year down the road.

        5. Maybe get a bigger HDD.

  • +1

    Your GPU is more than enough, maybe even a bit overkill for R6 Siege and more than enough to play even newer titles like Gears 4 well. Maybe jump up the RAM to 16GB because like someone said earlier, recently a lot of games have been asking this. CPU should be good enough for most games. Not always but typically AAA games are bottlenecked at the GPU and with VRAM too. I don't really know a whole lot ablut power recommendations but I can only guess that if your PSU is enough to run everything then it's okay?

    • +1

      That's the general consensus and I'm glad to hear it. I've gone 16GB RAM and the 1060 will be a 6GB VRAM. Thanks for the input.

      • +1

        You're alright mate. I just bought a gaming laptop myself and was in a similar situation. But I didn't really have to pick parts per se, just find a laptop with the right ones. Hope it works out well for ya. :)

  • i3 - 6100 master race

    it should handle most photo editing at a "moderate level" which you have suggested


  • Update 2: Hi everyone, I appreciate the impressive feedback I have received and continue to receive! I have placed an order (but not yet paid for) at my local Umart with the following components/prices:

    Name Sub-total

    NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case Black/Red $99.00
    Gigabyte H170M-D3H LGA 1151 Motherboard $149.00
    Western Digital Blue 1TB SATA3 HDD 64M Caviar Blue WD10EZEX $66.00
    Kingston 16GB kit (2 x 8GB) HX424C15FB2K2/16 Hyper X DDR4 2400Mhz $109.00
    SeaSonic G-450W 80Plus Gold PSU $110.00

    I realise that I may save a few $ by shopping around, but by buying most of my components this way I eliminate shipping costs and make it easier for myself in case of future issues (Umart has been pleasant in past experiences for me). The PSU is on 'pre-order' status and I have sent them an email asking for an ETA on that. I believe it is to my advantage - will help keep the warranties intact a little longer while I wait a bit for sales on: SSD, CPU and GPU (and then a new monitor). I'll end up just pulling the trigger on them if I have to wait too long on sales.

    I'll update again as I buy the rest of the components in case any of you are interested and for the possibility of helping with another's PC build in the future.

    • Gigabyte H170M-D3H LGA 1151
      2133 MHz memory modules

      • Will still boot…not a huge deal

        you just won't see the benefits of 2400mhz memory. Not to worry though, as graphics cards is doing all the work.

      • I'm aware. I have 2400MHz as they were some of the cheapest on Umart.

    • Are you sure 450W is going to be enough to power that system? EVGA Supernova 650W 80Plus Gold seems to be going for similar price and has excellent reviews. Might be a safer option?

      • Assuming the OP wants to go with a GTX 1060, 450w power supply is already sufficient. Nvidia 1060 is very power efficient..

        A fully tricked out gaming rig with Intel i5-6600 + GTX 1060 + 4HDD + 4USB + Wifi card will only use about 380 watts PEAK from the wall. 450w 80Plus PSU is good enough.

        You can't SLI with the GTX 1060 anyway so there is no point getting anything higher.

    • Just wondering how you decided on the H170M chipset for the motherboard. I'm considering similar build and tossing up between the H170, H110 and B150. Is there any difference? B150M seems cheaper at $99 for Gigabyte

      • +1

        in summary :

        Z170 H170 H110 Q170 Q150 B150
        HSIO Lanes 26 22 14 26 20 18
        Chipset PCI-e Lanes x20 3.0 x16 3.0 x6 2.0 x20 3.0 x10 3.0 x8 3.0
        PCI-e 3.0 Config 1 x16 1 x16 1 x16 1 x16 1 x16 1 x16
        2 x8 2 x8
        1 x8 + 2 x4 1 x8 + 2 x4
        CPU Overclocking Yes No No No No No
        Memory Channels 2 2 2 2 2 2
        DIMMs per Channel 2 2 1 2 2 2
        Native SATA 3.0 Ports 6 6 4 6 6 6
        Max USB Ports 14 14 10 14 14 12
        Max USB3.x Ports 10 8 4 10 8 6
        Intel SRT Yes Yes No Yes No No
        RAID 0/1/5/10 Yes Yes No Yes No No
        RST via PCI-e 3 2 3
        Independent Displays 3 3 2 3 3 3
        Smart Sound Yes No No Yes Yes Yes
        Intel SBA No Yes No Yes Yes Yes
        Intel SBB No Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
        I/O Flexibility Yes Yes No

        source1, source2

        • Thanks for the comparison. By the looks of it, it just feels like there are two main differences:

          • overclockability
          • number of things you can connect (e.g. USB ports, number of hard drives, number/type of RAM sticks)

          Besides, these two things I've mentioned, is there anything else that actually affects performance?

        • @brainactive: no there is nothing else. E.g if you have i7 (non K cpu), a gtx 1080, x2 2133Mhz DDR4s, a SATA ssd + hdd, running on h110 motherboard, you will not see any difference on similar systems running on b150/h170 motherboard.

  • +1

    To me looks like the OP most important thing is to stick on a small budget. With that in mind, I would suggest getting good second hand parts from overclockers:

    There is also a facebook group set up for PC parts:

    If you are patient, you can really reduce your budget by a lot or go for better parts. To give you an example, when I built my 6700k system, I bought a $1200 980Ti EVGA classified for $800. This was 2 months old (basically new) but it saved me a fair bit. I also bought a $1200 ASUS ROG Swift 1440P 144Hz monitor for $400. It was brand new but a DOA unit. ASUS organised pick up, got it repaired and returned within a week. All under warranty. Some people are just not bothered and they rather sell it at a big loss.

  • +1

    My 2 cents not regarding the build itself … buy all the parts at once or within a week or two, dont spread out the buying process any longer due to dropping costs etc. If you do need to spread it out a bit, start with the case & power supply as prices on those are pretty static

  • +1

    $100+ for a bronze power supply is absolutely terrible. I'm assuming you want modular, though even so. Corsair has 450w semi modular* 80+ gold PSUs for $105, Be Quiet has an 80+ silver for $99, etc.

    *Semi modular is no difference. It simply means the 20+4 ATX motherboard connector is hardwired (not modular), though as you always need this it doesn't effect anything. Other cords are modular still.

    Beyond that, looks okay.

    • Apparently Seasonic makes the best PSU

      • Seasonic, Corsair, Be Quiet, etc.
        As long as it's a big name brand, there's no real difference (beyond on-paper specs). The only thing to avoid is unknown or generic brands (don't cheap out with a $19 no brand supply, lol).

        By the way, if you wanna save a little more (and don't plan on many future upgrades) you could easily get all those parts with a 450w power supply. Corsair has (non modular) models for around $50-55. You could run it all off a 350w, though I'd recommend 450 so you can safely run more hard drives, fans, USB debices, etc.

  • +1

    Good luck with your build I did my first last year around this time.

    I did recall that amazon and amex had a pretty awesome deal around cyber/black Friday. I purchased gpu,you,ram & ssd from them and bought everything else local.

    Couple of tips/fyi:

    1) your mobo doesn't have inbuilt wifi. You could have intended not to have Wi-Fi and will be utilising Ethernet and that's fine. If you are set on that mobo it will mean an additional cost that you may not have estimated.

    2) if you are going to buy windows from a local shop I would always recommend getting the retail version instead of OEM. It just means it's a one time cost for your future builds and if I'm not mistaken it's usually only 40 bucks more.

    3) if you are getting oem windows, purchase it from kinguin. I just made a mini itx build last week and paid 38 bucks for it. Get the insurance which will be roughly 1.40 more. Protects you in case the key doesn't work. There's always a 5% off deal as well so insurance becomes free

    4) the skylake non k cpus can overclock. Won't go into detail, as there quite a few videos and guides out there, but it requires a z170 mobo (search bclk overclock skylake if you are interested).

    If you save ~$100 bucks from windows I would recommend getting the z170 mobo which may mean $50 bucks more and maybe the rest plus a little bit more going towards a bigger ssd. Trust me you'll want it, my original build had a 250gb ssd and since then i purchased an additional 960gb one.

    Good luck and enjoy it. The first time is always a little daunting.

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