Hey guys,
My steering is on the heavy side and I was told because my cars old that installing one from the wreckers would be an option.
Just wondering if you can tell how good used ones are though before you install them — as I would be paying the mechanic shop a couple of hours for the labour :)
Cheers
Yeah mate that's my dilemma.
A new car would fix the problem. But my laser is from an old lady with only 60,000 on the clock and just sat in the garage- its very good mechanically.
And third party insurance for it is cheap as chips.
60,000 on the clock and just sat in the garage
And that's why it has so many problems. Cars are designed to be driven. Not short trips. Not garage queens.
I have a van like that. You're right, it could well be worth spending the money. My van was also "dry steered", and 2nd gear is dodgy - both symptoms of someone not knowing how to drive (the majority of people?). Also the paint was faded - left outside. I spent some time changing all the oils (gearbox and rear diff as well), cutting back the paint, steering alignment etc. Had to put a lighter weight oil in the gearbox for the 2nd gear change issue. It's been great for years now - we love it. No dry steering by us, let it warm up for a couple of minutes (I have with all vehicles). The steering problem you have is more than likely due to "dry steering". Although when I first drove the van to test it, the steering was terrible - tyres pumped according to recommended pressures. An eyeball of the front tyres (original at the time) told me way under pressure. The pressures front and rear were pretty much back to front. You obviously don't have that problem.
Why jumó straight to the steering rack? Have you checked the pump isn’t the issue? Have to tried changing the fluid? Are the tyres at proper pressure? Are the tie rod ends sticky, or maybe the lower ball joints? What about strut top bearings?
Yeah mate I took it to a steering place. They said the wheels turned fine by hand when the rack was unhooked but it got heavy when they put it on again.
They're pretty genuine. Didn't charge me for the diagnosis
Second hand is always a gamble. Maybe get yours reconditioned as it's a middle of the road option if you're willing to pay a bit more. I think in such and old car it would only be 2 bolts holding it to the frame, 2 flare nuts for the hoses, 1 bolt connecting the steering column and the 2 tie rod ends. It shouldn't be a labour intensive job but I haven't worked on cars professionaly in about 10 years.
Thanks mate.
Would it be worth running some type of additive through it first? There's no leaks but I believe there's vavles inside there that can seize up a bit?
Checking a 2nd hand rack is 1st a visual inspection. Sealed boots, plugged oil ports, input shaft /splines clean, and no impact damage to the body.
Then stroke the rack fully left to right a few times for a smooth free action. Operate the input shaft by hand also fully L to Right.
Caution, you may get oil spray from ports.
Fitting is easy on many vehicles, and is so on yours, but some are a nightmare even with the correct method, tools, and experience….meaning easy if you know how. The bolting off/on is simple until you need to get the taper mounted tie rod ends free, preset the Toe adjustment and perform the obligatory oil flush.
This is all assuming the hoses are in good condition and no internal faults causing oil flow restrictions, that the pump is not weak or bypassing internally due to age, nil on defective vanes or Pressure Relief Valve, and the belt drive is functioning correctly. Even buggered oil can hinder the system.
And you thought is was simple….well it can be, but only if you are also prepared for and expect a possible failed Rack, which you will not know until you have fitted it up completely to test. That is the risk with 2nd hand…doing it more than once.
Once you have a good rack, and all other points have been covered off, get a wheel alignment…Toe adjustment is a must,.
So, before you hit the wreckers hotline, confirm your hoses are in good order, meaning a flow check is required. Same with pump and pressure relief system. For a true and complete diagnosis, you may get the same answer as you already have, but at least if you pay the extra, you get a complete and full test and diagnosis, to be sure to be sure which may be a lot cheaper if it is the oil or relief valve for example.
A new reconditioned item is an option if you have friends in the trade, but NO Warranty if not fitted with all the flushing and filters etc as required and in some instances by a qualified workshop.
Or 250kg in the boot plus 50 psi on skinny front tyres, it will be super light steering then.
Thanks mate,
Yeah I think I'll leave it in the hands of the pros to fit.
Could old power steering fluid cause issues? I have no idea how old the stuff in there now is.
And where would I look for a reconditioned one? What type of businesses do them?
Cheers
I think you need to have a go. It’ll handle better if the rack isn’t too heavy.
Honestly it’s probably not worth investing the time or money in a 20 year old Ford Laser which is not worth much. Can you afford to buy a newer car? You may end up doing this work and it doesn’t even fix the problem.