Road Bike 28c vs 30c vs 32c

Thank you very much for the suggestions. Now I know which tyres to get. Instead of making a new post i am editing this existing one. I want to ask if 28c will able to carry the load of the bike and rider since i am 96 kilos and might fit a baby trailer or carrier. I am going for Shwalbe Marathon Plus though for its puncture resistance.

Below are some photos i took last night. The bike currently has 700x30c fitted and I was initially going for 32c but seems like frame wont allow that choice.

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PREVIOUS POST: I just got a Giant CRX Four bike
for home-work commute which has Vittoria Vittoria Zaffiro Pro G2.0 700x30c fitted. Now, I am a heavy rider weighing 96kilos and the recommended PSI on the tyre suggests 60-90 psi. I used to ride a mountain bike which never punctured in years but I realised road bikes get punctured quite easily.

What the tyre pressure should be considering my weight to avoid punctures.

What do you do to avoid getting tyre punctured.

Any good brands with proven puncture resistance technology… (if thats a thing)

Comments

  • +1

    Punctures are inevitable with road bike tyres. Glass on the road is a particularly bad culprit. Just make sure you have a pump and some spare tubes with you.

  • +4

    To mitigate flats I have :
    - Tyres with a kevlar lining, many continentals have it, eg GP and Gatorskins.
    - A tyre liner.
    - Carry around spare tube and levers.

    Your weight and tyre pressure has little bearing on the possibility of flats, you will get a flat if you run over glass/ prickles / other objects.

    The only thing I would recommend is to inflate it at the top end because if you are heavy and you have it on the lower end of the pressure, and over time you lose a little air, you may get pinch flats as the pressure isn;t enough when you go over kerbs and bumps and your rim will pinch the tyre causing a mini slash.

    • +1

      Since shifting to Continental Gatorskins (run at around 110 psi), I've had very few punctures, riding 120 to 200km a week. You still have to be observant and avoid patches of glass etc. I regularly check the tyres, removing embedded glass. Cuts and gashes can be repaired with Shoe Goo. This stops debris entering the cuts and causing flats.

      • +1

        Thanks for the Shoe Goo tip

        • +1

          Works a treat. Tip, deflate tyre (don't need to remove from rim), squeeze to open up cut and remove any debris or dirt. Squeeze some Shoe Goo into the cut, allow it close naturally. Don't inflate for 12 hours or longer if possible. When dry, carefully trim any excess Shoe Goo with a sharp blade. Inflate tyre and go.

          When I use to race on very narrow, soft Continental Slicks, it saved me $$, especially being broke at the time.

    • so 85f and 85r sounds good?

      • +2

        Inflate to the suggested pressure, for less rolling resistance use the upper suggested PSI. Your current tyres are not rated/made for 110 or higher.

        • +1

          Counterintuitively, higher pressure might not decrease rolling resistance, except on very smooth surfaces. Allowing the tyre to absorb some of the surface undulation prevents having to ‘lift’ the whole bike and rider upwards to move over the little bumps.

    • +2

      A properly applied patch works perfectly well and is a lot cheaper than a new tube.

  • Road bikes will simply get more flats all else being equal vs. an MTB.

    Road bike tyres are simply thinner (rubber thickness, not tyre width) and are (usually) designed with speed and weight in mind as a first priority. The tubes themselves are also a factor here.

    There are a variety of alternative tyres and tubes out there that are thicker and provide various levels of puncture resistance, but remember you are dealing with quite a different beast to an MTB so you won't get back to that level.

    It is really worth doing a little internet research on the matter because there are a lot of options out there.

    On tyre pressure specifically, just use the manufacturers guidelines, but at 96kgs you'll be at the higher end of the pressure range.

    • 85ish Psi should be ok i suppose.

      • Remember that your measuring equipment is probably not super accurate, you'll probably lose a couple of PSI when take the pump of the valve, etc.

        I actually wouldn't get that worked up about pressure. Just go 85-90 on your meter and away you go. Depending on how much you're riding and type of riding you're doing you might find some personal preferences as you go, but a couple of PSI either way isn't making any difference to your issue.

        • i am going to ride at a normal speed - not worried about breaking any speed records or going hard.

          • @DisabledUser227884: Yep, that's what I'm getting at. There are differences in different pressures, but you need to get a feel for your own style, your bike, etc. before getting worked up about 85 vs 90 or whatever … not to mention that in just "rolling it down the street" it's not going to make any material difference anyway.

            Just go with the recommended pressure and see how you go. You can always fiddle about the pressure a bit to see what you like over a few weeks or months. As mentioned, you're unlikely getting precise readings off your gear anyway so play around between 85 and 95 and see what you like.

  • Continental tyres are the best. I've done 20,000km of cycle touring (travel across various countries by bicycle), and 8 years of commuting to and from work by bicycle in Sydney. I've worn out tyres to the point that I had a blowout in rural Hungary and had to patch with a banknote and duct tape (got me another few hundred kilometres).

    Every time I switch away from Continental tyres, I get flats. I almost never get flats when using them. My commuting tyre of choice is the Continental Grand Prix 5000, known as the GP5000. You can find them at various online stores at good prices.

    Also invest in a floor pump and keep your tyres at the right (higher end) pressure. I'm about 90kg and I put my road bike tyres at 120psi. I only pump them every couple of days, so I'm probably actually running at 100-110 most of the time.

    • that tyre has good reviews but not available in 700x30c… i bought myself xiaomi air pump :)

    • also, what are your thoughts on tubeless.

  • Depends why you're getting punctures, if cause of debris, get one that's more durable like continental gatorskins.
    If you're getting "snakebike" punctures, that's when you hit a curb/pot hole, and get 2 holes pinched from rims, then you need more pressure.

  • https://road.cc/content/feature/how-choose-your-tyre-pressur...

    Check out the chart on this link for tyre pressure. It could be lower than you think. Intend to run a bit higher to prevent pinch flats.

  • +2

    A couple of sites I like to use when it comes to tyres are the following:

    Tyre Pressure - https://info.silca.cc/silca-professional-pressure-calculator

    Tyre Qualities - https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews?o... (I've ordered this by puncture resistance)

    I've been using Gatorskins for many years and have been very happy with them.

    The second website I linked actually has the Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR down as being tougher than the Gatorskins in terms of puncture protection, and they also claim it has better rolling resistance. I'm tempted to give them a go, but they're a bit pricier than the Gators.

    If you're really worried about punctures and want a real bulletproof, heavy duty tyre, it might be worth checking out the Schwalbe Marathon Plus (or any other variety of the Schwalbe Marathon). I know a lot of cyclists swear by these, especially commuters.

    • Where can get these cheap? Chainreactioncycle is not australian and i do not know if they are trusted source.

  • +4

    Schwalbe Marathon Plus is the big daddy of Puncture resistant commuting tyres. Heavy and bastard to mount but they roll quite well once up to speed.

    https://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-plus

    • +1

      Loved the Schwalbe Ultremo DD 700 x 23s when they were around. Eventually wore out 2 sets with only 1 puncture for the life of all 4 tyres. They were brilliant. I went to the Continental Gatorskins when Schwalbe stopped making the DDs.

      • Since you know quite alot about tyres :) Any thoughts on Specialized Armadillo All Seasons?

        • +1

          Sorry, haven't used them, so I have nothing to say about them. Most in my riding group tend to use Continentals or Schwalbes. A few use Vittoria, but I'm not sure which ones.

  • +1

    I have experimented with different tyre widths (25c and 28c) and pressures of between 80-120psi and funnily enough, narrower tyres with higher pressures seem to get me more punctures… I'm theorising that wider tyres with lower psi means the tyre deforms and rolls over the debris more readily, whereas narrower tyres and higher psi means the tyre presses harder against the debris and doesn't deform as much.

    I am 66kg and set my GP5000 28c tyres at 90psi.

    Having said that, I can't help but feel it all comes down to luck. As long as you are within their recommended range (i.e. not too deflated or overinflated), then it's all good and you just have to pay attention to any debris on the road.

  • Generally the rule is the higher the pressure the more puncture protection is afforded, at least with road tyres.
    keeping the tyre at or as close to the maximum psi is best for tyre longevity as well as puncture protection.

    As far as tyres go the Vittoria Zafiro are mediocre tyres, with the rubino pro with graphene a big step up.

    However maximum puncture protection comes from the previously mentioned Schwalbe Marathon Plus, we'd sell these every day for $80 a pop and people would swear by them.

    Had a couple who rode across America and one Across Australia on a set with zero flats.

    Bombproof tyres, albeit a little heavy.

  • It depends on how flexible you are when you actually get a puncture, which is a bit hard to predict. There was a time when I got 2 big punctures in 6 months, but I haven't got any major punctures since.

    Something I have tried is to get a tube with removable presta valve and fill the tube with sealant. This slowed the rate of the tube losing air. I had a really small puncture caused by a small piece of glass a few years ago and was able to ride on because the sealant just slowed the air loss. A similar approach is to get a thicker tube or a self-sealing tubes. Remember that if you get a big puncture (e.g. big nail or big piece of glass), then they are not that effective.

    In my experience, changing tubes by the side of the road for road bikes are a pain in the ass (compared to other bike types). Hence, even though I always have a spare tube etc handy, I normally just end up calling the mrs to pick me up with the car as the time lost and inconvenience is just not worthed.

    My suggestion is to practice changing or repairing the tube (if you want to carry spare tubes and the kits). I know others can do it in minutes, but it's a skill that not everyone can master easily.

    • Thanks for the suggestion but I seriously do not want to change or repair my tyres on the side of the road. I want a hasel free ride so I am probably going to order 2 Schwable and 2 foldable gatorskins to be on the face side.

      • If you want to be super safe, then you can also look at tubeless, getting a tube that's more durable or self sealing tubes.

        • Now a youtuber has suggested Armadillo (All season). I am probably going to get 2 x Schwalbe Marathon plus or 2 x Specialized Armadillo and 1x Gatorskin (Foldable)

  • 50-60 psi.

  • 50-60 psi works for me. I'm about the same weight.

  • -1

    You lost me at "Hi All"…. 4FS… has the US regime infiltrated the Australian vernacular ?

    Hi ya'll…. what utter crap.

    • Howdy Mister! Sounds better?

  • Continental Gatorskins or GP5000's at around 100 to 110 PSI are the way to go from my experience as a heavy rider (115Kg) on a clydesdale wheelset. I used the older GP4000 model for many years and rarely got flats (still carry a spare tube, hand pump & gas inflater), only recently put the newer GP5000's on and no issues with them yet but I don't do a huge amount of KM's these days.

    • Yes seems like bike community loves riding these tyres. I have pretty much made up mind about which ones to get but confused if they would fit on my bike.

      i currently running 700x30c on Alexrims ACE 17 and this the clearance looks like

      https://freeimage.host/i/2E6m9p

      not sure if 700x32 would fit on my bike :(

      • I would just go with 28c size if I were you - the Contis and Scwalbes both come in that size. I don't think you'll notice much difference from the 30c size you're currently running.

        • i was going for safe option but i guess 32 will be an issue with the frame clearance.

  • Conti's are a good safe bet, cost a little more than most but well worth it.
    Michelins use to be very good, however I'm so impressed with the Conti's I have I doubt I'll go back

    • which ones? Gator or GP5000??

      • +1

        I have the GP4000's which are the predecessor to the GP5000's, haven't used the Gatorskins.

  • Have you thought about running tubeless? I've been tubeless for the last 4 years riding around 6000 kms a year and whilst I've had a few punctures the hole has always sealed up with enough pressure for me to just keep riding. Downside is that my tyres are on so tight that a catastrophic failure roadside I wouldn't be able to get the tyre off to put a tube in. So far it hasn't happened. Upside is that the last 3 punctures i didn't even know about until I got home and noticed the goo sprayed all over the seat stays.

    • I recently purchased a Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack from Amazon that has made fitting tubeless tyres so much easier. I was blistering my hands getting brand new tyres on plus the time required was also lengthy. I too was concerned that I had no way to repair roadside and this has hopefully solved the problem though thankfully I haven't actually had a roadside puncture to test?

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