• out of stock

Electric Mountain Bike $1799 + Delivery @ ALDI (Online Only)

770

Another Black Wednesday deal from ALDI. Catalogue photo

  • 250W 36V motor (looks like a mid drive motor, nicer for control in MTB setting! Also integrated into the frame)
  • hydraulic disc brakes (basically a necessity for this kind of bike, so that's good)
  • dropper seat post
  • 27.5" Schwalbe tyres
  • Shimano gears
  • Suntour XCM32 fork

Battery integrated into the down tube which is nice, and I can see it locks with a key.

Single speed 1x drivetrain - seems like the rear cassette doesn't have heaps of range but the motor should power you through all of your climbs.

Seems like pretty solid value.

This is part of Black Friday / Cyber Monday deals for 2021

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closed Comments

        • Yup. I've taken a 24kg eMTB back across flats after a full day of riding and it was painstaking.

      • 126kg for rider, bike and luggage doesn't leave much wriggle room. Not suitable for anyone over about 95kg in other words.

  • +2

    Very close to the cheapest price point of Lekker Bikes, I'm tempted just to buy and try it out.

  • +3

    Looking at components and guessing, I'd say it is a $6-900 bike with a motor setup adding around 1k.

  • cullen v3 is better

    • +3

      cullen v3 is a rear hub drive (not the more expensive mid drive) and 1000w - illegal on our roads.

      • Switchable between 250W and 1000W..

        • +1

          A limiter doesn't make it road legal I believe - I do have a couple of 1000w motors but both are rev and go which is definitely not…. 250w is for pedalec only - 200w otherwise is the max limit I believe…

          • +2

            @evanssm2jp: Well.. if you are doing 60km/h on the road and get pulled over, then yeah, of course you deserve it. But pretty sure the cops wouldn't be pulling you over for doing 25km/h like what it is limited to do in the legal mode.

            • +1

              @bchliu: Agreed - I've had those bikes for a few years and never got pulled up but technically it's illegal… In case of an accident or such it could cause a lot of trouble. At the time there weren't many options and I bought/repaired the bike for use… Now I have a used pedalec as they are fairly common/cheap used…

              • -1

                @evanssm2jp: everything is illegal downunder /:o

                soon coppas will have standard issued watt-meters and be fully trained in electron flow detection, it will have a built in shooting tazer to stop criminal commuters, the worse type of criminal.

                Heres a law still in forced :
                Rain-making Control Act 1967
                Offence to carry out unauthorised rain-making operations Any person who carries out any rain-making operations in Victoria which are not authorized under this Act shall be guilty of an offence. Penalty: $1000 or imprisonment for twelve months.

  • +3

    Definitely a $600-$700 mountain bike max with an electric motor.

    I wouldn't suggest taking this on trails like the advertising shots.
    The brakes even though they are hydraulic will be woefully underpowered for the weight of the bike, as soon as they get hot they'll lose all traction.
    The gearing is entry level at best.
    The front suspension not beefed up enough for the weight of the bike.

    • +2

      Bike weighs 26kg, which is within the ballpark of 16kg-38kg for mountain e-bikes.

      There aren't too many mid-drive mountain e-bikes out there in the $600-700 price range I take it. I'd probably compare this to a top-tier non-electric mountain bike for usability on the trails.

      • +6

        I get that but 26kg is roughly 14kg more than a standard mtb, 14kg has a fairly significant impact on braking performance when using entry level hydraulic brakes, this is generally why the expensive e-bikes are expensive due to the overengineering of components (including suspension).
        But i stand by that it is a $700 mountain bike components wise, right down to the base suspension. With an electric motor and battery setup taking it to ~$1500. Don't expect it to be a nice ride on the trails but for someone who's not expecting much it should suffice..

        • Standard MTB is more like 14-16kg, 13kg is pretty light, 12kg is very light indeed.

          • @Alzori: i had an XTC carbon hardtail and that was 12kg and it felt very light compared to the carbon dually i got…

          • @Alzori: Standard hardtails alloy frames with entry level components are around 13kg I think. 16kg is way too heavy.

            • @wtfnodeal: no way, i had an alloy rigid 29er and it was 13kg… once you add shock, an alloy hardtail will be 15kg and even more for dually

              • +1

                @meong: My 29er full suspension mid level alloy bike is only 13kg. Unless you are talking about those bikes are more than 15 years old otherwise the newer SL alloy frames aren’t that heavy.

                • @wtfnodeal: I dunno how you weigh your bike, i have this bike here:
                  https://www.canyon.com/en-au/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/spec…

                  And i measured it myself and got the same result as that spec page which ~14kg for a dually carbon

                  • @meong: I used a digital luggage scale lifted by the saddle to measure the weight. In fact I weighed my XTC carbon hardtail at 11kg. I guess maybe all your bikes are in XL sizes but mine are only S.

                    • @wtfnodeal: mines are medium, i wonder if there was that much difference on the frame itself… hmmm…

                      • @meong: What year was your XTC carbon and what components it ran on? Mine has Deore XT but the older gen 2x10 speed with all other stock Giant parts without dropper post. Mine has tubeless setup though but I think it won’t make that much difference.

        • On the other hand, consider the weight range of people riding such a bike; you might have someone 70kg, or someone over 100kg.

          • +1

            @askvictor: This is a good point
            At which point the brakes will be dangerously underpowered

      • +1

        Definitely not. A bike with a 1x12 drivetrain is going to be just as, if not more usable on trails than this ebike. It will take more work, yes, but you'd also be shaving a lot of weight from the bike. Plus for the same price you're going to be getting much better components, especially brakes and forks, which means you're going to be much more confident both down and up. Comparing it to a "top tier" analogue bike is, frankly, laughable. You might be able to get along a flat or up a hill faster than someone of comparable skill on a regular bike, but the moment you hit a downhill section, or anything remotely technical, all that power will mean nothing, and you're at much greater risk of the lower-quality components failing

        If I were actually looking to go mountain biking, I would rather spend 1800 dollars on a good-quality hardtail than this ebike. If I was in the market specifically for an ebike, I would consider this, but only as a road/hybrid bike with mild off road capability.

        Think of it in terms of cars. A bodged together Honda Civic with a tonne of mods could absolutely smoke a Ferrari in a drag race, but the Ferrari is gonna get around an actual track much faster and safer, and do it over and over again instead of having to deal with cheap parts repeatedly being pushed past their limits.

  • https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/fortis-700c-36v-bafang-mid-driv… - Kogan one is around the same price…. Box weight for the Aldi one is 31kg so I imagine the bike will be very heavy… The Kogan one is still heavy at 25kg but has a Bafang motor which are quite well regarded (no mention on the Aldi one)… Neither have decent suspension…

  • Thanks.

  • +1

    The problem with buying e bikes front non bike shops is that where to buy a replacement battery when the original fails?

    • +2

      You bin it.

      • haha. bin the battery and the bike altogether?

        • recycle the battery at the appropriate place and just ride it as a non e-bike ;)

    • +1

      Easy, just grab some Aldi 20v tool batteries and harvest the cells 😄

    • Wait for the ozbargain eneloop sale.

  • Question for those in the know - do these (or similar) bikes have a full electric drive mode or do they simply assist your pedal?

    • being 250w they have to be a pedalec (pedal assist) to be road legal….

    • +1

      Definitely pedal assist only.

      Easy way to spot a direct drive is if it has a throttle - which this doesn't.

    • AFAIK the legislation have changed, and ebikes with throttle now belong to moped category. Some ebikes are manufactured with throttle, but when they are sold in AU, the throttle is disabled.

      • Mine has a throttle but only goes up to 6km/h (walking speed).

        Useful for a push off from a standing start, and also for pulling the (heavy) bike along when you are pushing it dismounted.

        • so useful for those steep train station ramps or shopping centre travelators

      • It's not a throttle officer, it's the flick button for my bell

        My bell which fell off

    • Mid drives are assist only as the crank will have to turn with the motor, but mine does have a 'walking mode' that helps push the bike up steep ramps.

      • +1

        yeah this has it too - 6kph apparently

  • +1

    Integrated battery and mid drive motor is impressive. Would be good to know how much torque the motor puts out. My Ep8 is 250w at 36v and puts out 85nm, but I suspect this wouldn't be as powerful.

    • I would wager no more than 40nm

      • +1

        Hi CJ,

        How much would you like to wager? :-) The Estate E-MTB motor puts out 80nm of torque.

        • What motor is it?

        • Does it have different modes like eco, trail, turbo etc? Estimated range and odo?

  • +1

    Kogan’s electric mountain bike was $799. Perspective?
    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/542535

    • not a mid drive though - The mid drive hasn't been discounted afaik…

      • Does mid-drive justify $1K difference?

        • Generally speaking because mid drive drives the gears they are more efficient and have more torque although a little noisier…. Hub drive run out of power going up hills because it's essentially got a single gear in most cases…. That said hub drives can put less wear on things (other than spokes I guess)…. Mid drive is generally considered better unless it's a very high power hub motor…. I'm sure manufacture cost is not so different though! ;)

          • @evanssm2jp: I got the Fortis & it was all good until the motor assist would cut out going uphill after only pedalling for 30 to 60 seconds - is this normal?

            • @Boogerman: I wouldn't expect so - although on a hub motor they just run out of steam…. I've never had a mid drive myself - always out of my price range… I bought a used NCM Prague for $550 or so which does the job…

          • @evanssm2jp: Mid drives are also more practical in that every part of the bike is just a regular bike, apart from the motor and battery.

            So you don't have to deal with things like having to unplug your motor to change a tyre or fit your bike in your boot, if you need a new wheel you can just go buy a new wheel, rather than having to get one specially made to integrate the hub motor.

        • mid drive uses the bikes gears so you get the advantage of that on steep hills

  • Is it actually viable to commute 20k return each day on something like this? I'm not sure if what I'm asking for is unreasonable on any bike though..

    • +2

      I'd say easily - probably best charging the battery before returning home if you use the higher power modes though…

    • +1

      Yes it is. It should get you 40km easily without charging. My Giant Fastroad with a 375wh battery does 60km easily.

    • Yes. I commute to Sydney CBD from the suburbs with the commute being 17-22km each way depending on which route (slower and safer - all bike paths, or faster on the road), with hills. It takes around 1hr 15m, the riding speed factors less into the overall time than stops & crossings.

      My bike is a Cube Reaction, using Tour setting (2nd lowest) I can get 1.5 round trips (i.e. around 50-60km), with some juice leftover but I don't want to risk it (although on Eco mode I can easily limp home if need be)

      Other consideration is - weather, storage on the bike, and security. I have a locked bike room at work and I then use a Kryptonite U lock, but otherwise it is too bulky/heavy to bring into the office and use the bike hooks there.

  • +2

    The fact is says "shimano gearing" means the drivetrain is probably complete trash, I believe it looks to be an acera group set which is just above shimanos complete low end being tourney even though it does seem to be a 1x.
    The coil fork is what you'd expect on the basic of basic mtbs and I'd probably say it's only ok if you're city riding and kinda pointless for any actual trails.
    The motor is also all you'd expect with a fork like this trying not to snap the damn thing.
    Brakes are probably also complete bottom tier based off of everything else and I wouldn't rely on them to stop you
    This thing probably weighs a (profanity) ton as well so you don't really want to be lugging it around every where.

    to sum up, this bike is complete ass
    I wouldn't take it near a trail and even then if you used it to commute its going to be heavy as shit.

    • +1

      Which is why it's being sold at ALDI - the target purchasing demographic is one that looks at the price and that is it, not being smart enough to work out what a piece of garbage it is. (Nor how unsafe it is compared to a good quality version of something like this.)

      • +2

        Do you think the average Aldi demographic will fork out $1800 for a no name electric bike? I've seen plenty of people buying their Bauhn big screen tvs but we're only talking max $600 for those.

        I think in the past Aldi have sent out electric bikes to some local social media people before this kind of sale, so surprised i haven't seen anything like that this time.

        • No, I didn't say anything about average. But it's a way better bet there than anywhere that have people who have a clue about these things. Gotta remember they don't ever have many to sell.

    • +1

      Thanks for your insights

      • +2

        just note that my local bike shop says brand emtbs start at 5K…..and easily go past 10K
        You gotta trade something to get to this price

        • That would be full suspension. Hard tails like this can be in the 4k region.

    • +4

      The forks are SR Suntour XCM32 Boosts, pretty decent suspension - the only factor here is the extra 5-10kg of weight due to the battery + motor putting the bike at 26kg all up.

      If you think about it, a motorless mtb at 16kg with a rider 10kg heavier than you is not going to turn the same forks to shit, so this should be durable enough for trail riding just from the specs.

      • Do you know if the wheels and other are any good?

        I recently moved to a place with some nice trails. Rode for the first time in 20 years. Went with a Target barget dual suspension bike. Went at it full band aid style and first launch off a platform (1m at best) and my back wheel gave out and brakes then jammed into the spokes, pedal snapped off and it all spun me around into a tree. Turns out an 84kg rig is a bit different than the old 68kg version, and dual suspension front and rear are great, but the rest of the bike needs to be up to it. I'm old and don't need a 10k bike, but a basic actual off-road ebike would be good. Maybe the spokes were loose, dunno. Did hurt (pride and body).

    • I said this exact same about their "premium mountain bike" from a few weeks ago.

    • +1

      Hi hrjf.

      I'm not sure I should take your comments seriously, as I suspect your post is an attempt at humour, but let me correct your points regardless;

      The Estate E-MTB uses Shimano Altus 1x8 gearing, with an 11-34 cassette and a narrow wide 34 tooth chainring. Reliable, good shifting, and decent gearing spread for most trail riding.

      The coil fork is a Suntour XCM with a boost width 15mm through axle, hydraulic damping, and has lockout. Pretty suitable for a majority of trails.

      The mid drive motor is a 36V, 250W with 80nm of torque. Very comparable numbers to big name brands.

      The brakes are hydraulic two piston calipers with 180mm rotors, and don't show any sign of fade on a top to bottom on Mt Narra for example. That's a decent length flat out descent with a lot of heavy braking, and braking control required for technical sections.

      The bike uses a 6061 Aluminium frame, alloy bars and stem, hubs, etc. It's a comparable weight to most other e-mtb's. It's not a weight weenie bike, it uses a dropper post, 2.35 Schwalbe tyres, and 27.5mm internal width rims. All designed for durability on real trails, and acceptable weight compromise.

      You may not buy this bike, nor take it near a trail hrjf, but a number of these bikes have already been ridden extensively on real trails, and many happy buyers will enjoy years of real trail riding on this bike in the future, I can promise you that.

      • EstateBikes - is it a boost frame and fork? (148 & 110mm)

      • Wow 80nm really? That's pretty impressive. What brand/model is the motor?

  • +3

    10ah rubbish

  • +3

    lol the instruction manual

    Before first use
    • Unpack this bike

    • +3

      Before unpacking bike
      - open eyes

    • +1

      Awww man, I was wondering why I kept getting chaffing from the box.

  • +1

    Is this the most expensive single item Aldi has ever sold?

    • +4

      ALDI has recently announced a "Slave-Free" policy (I kid not), so I guess they previously sold slaves in some countries. That would be more than $1800.

      https://www.aldiunpacked.com.au/aldi-becomes-the-first-austr…

      • aldis sold some expensive gaming laptops

        be that as it may, after the 1yr warranty i wonder where you would get parts for it?

        or can you just fit generic shimano etc?

        or does that not work on electrics?

        • +1

          yep agree 1yr is pretty low. Just looked at kogan one and its also 1Yr. More expensive brand names give 5yrs+ on frame and 2-3 on electrics typically.

        • -1

          The good thing about a mid-drive bike is that, yes! You absolutely can replace the wheels with standard mtb ones, ditto the fork (as long as it fits correctly into the steerer tube etc.)

          The only thing you won't be able to easily replace are the cranks, which on these cheaper mid drive motors tend to be highly-specific, and more often than not irreplaceable (shimano and Bosch have similar issues, but have a much wider range of parts that can fit in comparison to a no-name motor brand like this)

          That being said, if you buy this for 1800, then go spend say, 600 on a better fork, 3-500 on a new better groupset, 2-300 on new brakes, and 400+ on a set of new wheels, even if you do it piecemeal, by the time you have a bike worth owning you've spent a goo 30% more overall than if you bought a decent bike worth 3500 dollars from the get-go

          • @TheRealCJ: You got your maths wrong.
            1800+1500=3300 which is a goo 5% less

            To spend a goo 30% more, you're talking about $1350 wheels.

  • +2

    Wait till jv sees this

    • +3

      Zzzzzz

    • +5

      too busy organising Dan Andrews protests

    • +9

      Seriously, WTF do people think it's smart to keep bringing up that moron? I know the bar is low at OzB, but geez.

      • +2

        nah its just me

  • +1

    Spend a bit more and get something like this

    https://www.dirodi.com.au/product/dirodi-xtreme-electric-bik…

    • +1

      Not bad, only downside with the Dirodis are that they're rear-hub motors. The performance responsiveness and gear ratios of mid-drives is too desirable to replace.

      • Plus the ease of disassembly and replacing components.

        When you need to take apart your entire drivetrain just to change a tyre, that's pretty impractical.

        • Yes, tire changing is also more difficult with hub motors, since you must often disconnect the motor wire or wrestle a heavy wheel around while it’s still tethered to the bike. However, there are some really cool bicycle inner tubes (like this one) that can be replaced without removing the bike wheel – great for hub motors.

          Just remember to carry a knife so that you can cut the old tube in order to pull it out (unless you're already sporting these tubes).

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