This was posted 5 months 21 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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ACCCreate Filament 5x1kg PLA $61.99 Delivered @ Weistek AliExpress


So it’s cheap filament of the PLA variety.
Once you claim all coupons, and after the current promo it comes down to $61.99 AUD including taxes, shipped from the Australian ware house and will be here in about a week.
For 5kg of PLA that’s $12.40 a roll.. pretty decent.

EDIT: for those wanting to see the price breakdown:

As mentioned, if Ali express offers you coupons when you open the app, click “claim”

They have red, black, white, yellow colours.
I choose 5kg of white because I’m burning through it for various home fixtures.

I’m aware it’s not a brand name filament like eSun etc… but there’s enough reviews with real photos to seem promising.

Obviously YMMV, but if you know your printer and the optimal conditions such as cranking up the temperature a bit for cheaper filament.. you should be fine.

Works for me ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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  • +1

    A good deal, is a good deal.
    And PLA is great for prototyping.

    But I cant stress enough how HUGE the jump is from PLA to PLA+ in terms of quality and strength.
    And then again, to PETG.

    But if you're still learning, and get failed prints time to time, cheap rolls of meh are great for prototypes.

    • Agreed. Depends what you’re making, and at 100% infill for something like a wall plate, PLA is fine, but PLA+ is awesome.
      I’m still trying to get my config right for PETG

      • +3

        100% infill isn't the solution for all the problems, it will use way more filament and take days to print.

        Instead, 4-5 walls and 50% infill will make the model strong asf using less material and printing way faster.
        There are amazing YouTube channels, including an Aussie famous one about that.

        PETG is as easy as PLA+ to print, I like PETG.
        You wanna have a high bed temp, high nozzle temp, fast travel and low retraction. In my old Ender3-V2 (bowden tube), the perfect 99% stringing free settings:

        • nozzle: 230
        • bed: 70
        • retraction distance: 6mm
        • retraction speed: 25mm/s / For PLA+ this goes up to 45mm/s
        • fan speed: 20%

        I have a Prusa MK3S+ now with direct drive and things change a bit:

        • nozzle: 240 — I still need to work this out, having some minor stringing
        • bed: 85/90
        • retraction distance: 1mm
        • retraction speed: 30mm/s
        • fan speed: 50% max
        • travel: 180mm/s —- it Z-hop by default so no fear hitting the model
        • Thanks for the tips… will definitely take this on board

          • @Z80: All good.
            For my Ender back then I printed a fan housing in PLA+ and for the Prusa in PETG.
            They are functional models so you want a strong model but at the same time light so here is where playing around with the walls/shell/perimeters matters, so does infill.

            There is a YouTube channel where he is well known for robot + AI + 3D printing. He printed gears in so many different ways. PLA+ with the right wall/infill pattern was actually stronger than PETG.

            One thing that I am still learning is the layer direction. If under stress, the layers will break apart so you need to print the model with pressure towards the layer length instead of its height. The right temp will allow a better layer fusion, etc.

            3D printing is awesome, the more you learn, the more crazy stuff you do haha

            • @ratoloko: Haha.. yep it sure is fun.
              As a side note, have you been keeping failed prints?
              I got a big box of mine, since I don’t think there’s recycling here in aus for bio plastics.

              I’m considering moulding them with silicone when I need an appropriate part.

              • @Z80: @mitchins I was but as you mentioned, there is no recycling here.
                To be fair not even the normal recycling material is done properly here which sucks.
                I have reduced printing "cool stuff" without a real reason, why??

                When prototyping, I measure 10x times but print once.
                Prusa does help a lot, zero failure prints by nature, no failures from my prints.

                DIY home recycling solutions are still too expensive.
                One day maybe.

  • Showing 71 for me, maybe account specific coupons…

    Also only black, white or red 5 roll packs, no mixed colours in the pack….

    • Might’ve been a splash coupon in the app landing page, but the Ali express coupon only accounted for $4.
      Shows as $60.30 the second time around

      • mine was $63 with all the coupon I could get

    • Bought this cheapie off ebay for some draft big prints….
      $11.72 with ebay+ or $12.53 without ebay+

      In my limited time with cheap filament, these work ok for larger prints where no tight clearances are required….
      And if it's a bargain, don't let it go to waste….. :P

  • -1

    I’m burning through it for various home fixtures.

    like what?

    • I’m trying to make panels to house various things like LCD screens and hue remotes, but I’m designing the models in openSCAD so there’s some iteration needed.

  • Total noob at 3d, just bought the anycubic mega x from here, will attempt to set up over Xmas.
    Ideal right? It's coming up 59.49 for me.

    While I'm asking noob ques, is there a recommendation on fume extraction, have a family member who has severe allergies.. thanks.

    • short answer, an enclosure, and a plastic tubing to a window. It gets much more expensive and less efficient when you self contain that solution.

      • Thanks mate, just looking at diy videos atm.

    • You can try googling "3d printing ikea lack table" a lot of people do this diy since it fits the standard size printer

      • +1

        Thank you, heaps of videos on it, 2 x$12 tables, perspex, foam for noise, fan is a good start, controlling heat seems to be one main issue, good stuff 👍

    • If you are using a decent PLA+ brand, you have nothing to worry about. Staying away from cheap filaments that use bad chemical is the best approach.
      My partner has sinusitis for the matter and the printer doesn't do anything to her. Of course, the printer has its own studio-room to help keep it dust-free and cats-proof haha

      About the enclosure:
      A) PLA+ will warp asf being printed within an enclosure if you don't have the proper ventilation system in place. Too much it will warp, too little it gets too hot and deforms.
      B) I built one for my Prusa hoping to print ASA, the enclosure is sh1t. Very weak for that purpose and I wish I had done more research. You don't wanna ASA fume escaping.

      I am looking into buying a server metal rack, fireproof, easier to keep the temp high for ASA, etc.

  • -1

    Been using a few rolls, for god sake if you don’t want a headache of filament not sticking no matter what you do, stay away. Black seems ok but white and red are nightmare even on my pei sheet. :)
    Ps: also the white color is not that nice to be used in decoration.

  • +1

    Hi All,

    Just a fair warning for these guys. Bought 8 Filaments last month and I haven't finished one roll because it keeps clogging. Never experienced this bad of a clogging compared to other filaments. There's a reason why these are cheap.

    • I had been using this brand for a handful of prints this week, no issues so far.

      what is the temp on your hotend and which printer?

  • Yeah nahh
    One day your guys will understand that price is not everything regarding filament, and PLA+ is way superior than PLA.
    No less important, its composition. Some companies will use the cheapest chemicals while others are known for their "green-ish" filaments.

    Also, cheap filaments tend to clog the crappy out of your nozzle, bad consistency and so on.

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