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[Backorder] TP-Link Tapo P100 Mini Smart Socket $11 + Delivery ($0 with Prime/ $59 Spend) @ Amazon AU

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[Backorder] TP-Link Tapo P100 Mini Smart Socket $11 + Delivery ($0 with Prime/ $59 Spend) @ Amazon AUAffiliate
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iTzTeFish on 01/04/2025 - 17:56 amazon.com.au (5444 clicks)
Last edited 02/04/2025 - 10:03 by 2 other users
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About this item:
Remote Control – Instantly turn connected devices on/off wherever you are through the Tapo app
Schedule – Preset a schedule to automatically manage devices
Timer - Create countdown timer lists for connected electronics
Voice Control – Manage your smart plug with voice commands via Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant
TP-Link - World's No. 1 Provider of WLAN Products within last 11 years. Leading support - Industry leading 2-year warranty and 24/7 technical support

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.
Electrical & Electronics Smart Plug TP-Link

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closed Comments

  • sandwichcustardmaker on 01/04/2025 - 18:10

    This or the 110 model?

    • Marrk on 01/04/2025 - 18:24
      +9

      P110M if you want to future proof yourself a bit more with Matter support, which includes Apple HomeKit.

      • bortwastaken on 01/04/2025 - 19:35
        +9

        lil fyi for those who care, the P110M doesnt do energy monitoring over matter https://community.tp-link.com/en/smart-home/forum/topic/6722… if thats your thing

        • noisymime on 02/04/2025 - 09:10

          WTF?? That's ridiculously misleading on their part!

          • camshandez on 02/04/2025 - 10:04
            +2

            @noisymime: even trickier when Google will support different Matter features than Home Assistant or other smart home hubs.
            Great to a universal standard rolling out, just a shame everyone's taking their sweet time to figure out how they'll do it.

    • kungfuman on 04/04/2025 - 09:54

      thanks man good deal.

    • Hugh G Rection on 04/04/2025 - 10:04

      this p100 is $11, p110 is $25

      im going to go with p100 and get 2 for a cheaper then a price for one p110

    • 191919 on 01/04/2025 - 18:21
      +29

      why are you making a useful post with no bold? bring back the old jv

      • Mr Frodo on 01/04/2025 - 20:15
        +3

        I wonder which one would have been better
        Sold out
        Or
        Sold out

        • 4rd on 01/04/2025 - 21:16
          +4

          sold out

  • Salmando on 01/04/2025 - 18:11
    -8

    I like how they claim is mini, despite being the largest product of this type I've ever seen

    • Marrk on 01/04/2025 - 18:22
      +6

      They aren’t that large? The original TP-Link Kasa was a lot worse.

    • Larsson on 01/04/2025 - 19:00
      +8

      You really haven’t seen many smart plugs. Meross’ one is MUCH bigger than this one.

      This is slim and fits in most places in comparison.

      My complaint is tapos outlet orientation is usually the opposite of how outlets design. So it clashes with others.

    • Hugh G Rection on 01/04/2025 - 20:06
      +2

      i can fit 2 on my wall side by side with no issues. i had genio and that was big and you can't put 2 next to each other like tapo.

  • spackbace on 01/04/2025 - 18:20
    +4

    2 for $21 @ Big W but low stock

    • jv on 01/04/2025 - 18:38
      +2

      plus delivery ?

      • Mr Frodo on 01/04/2025 - 20:14
        +24

        There's mah boi! Unnecessarily bolding

  • GenerallyClumsy on 01/04/2025 - 18:39
    +11

    These tp-link smart plugs fail quite a bit. I never had one catch on fire but one that was connected to a computer started switching on and off every second or so.

    I don't recommend them.

    I'm looking to buy some ikea INSPELNING plugs when they undiscontinue them.

    • Brick50 on 01/04/2025 - 19:36

      you think they will come back?

      • reloxation on 01/04/2025 - 20:04

        Keen to know this too. Id love the old Tradfri ones back because they actually worked with Aqara stuff

      • GenerallyClumsy on 01/04/2025 - 20:20

        I think they will. They keep coming on and off the site.

      • NinjaChicken on 01/04/2025 - 20:49

        There is a limited supply of them floating around - https://easyrebuild.com/stock?country=au&itemNo=60569838

        Looks like Richmond is the lucky store this week.

        A couple of weeks back they had 12 (1 tray) of them in Canberra…

        I can attest they are good plugs and work great with Home Assistant..

        • georgebcrawford on 01/04/2025 - 21:00

          I can't actually find them on the ikea website

          • NinjaChicken on 01/04/2025 - 23:42

            @georgebcrawford: Yeah - they don’t appear to be listed on the IKEA site. I assume due to the very limited stock.

        • jarrod on 02/04/2025 - 08:27

          I have some TP Link Tapo bulbs and they have to be connected to the Tapo app, which then HA connects to the Tapo app. Assuming these are the same?

    • chew_chew on 01/04/2025 - 20:59

      Which model did you have that failed?

      • GenerallyClumsy on 02/04/2025 - 07:30

        I don't remember. It was one of the energy monitoring ones.

    • adante on 01/04/2025 - 21:11
      -1

      I got burned by the HS100's, and when I went to search for help I saw that it appeared to have a massive failure rate.

      Just searched for these and still seems to be the case.

      Mildly surprised/impressed TP-Link have continued to get away with this for what appears to be years now.

      • deadpoet on 01/04/2025 - 23:52
        +2

        Lots of people swear that the HS100 and HS110 were built like tanks and didn't fail, yours is the first I've heard of one failing.

        My HS110 is still going strong around 6 years on, unlike my KP105/KP115 and P110/P100 which all died with the infamous continous click of death after 2-3 years.

        • GenerallyClumsy on 02/04/2025 - 07:34
          +1

          You might be right. I'm sure mine are the old ones.

          • deadpoet on 02/04/2025 - 09:49

            @GenerallyClumsy: Sorry, I didn't mean to cast doubt on your experience, just noting that it's interesting that even the fabled old model HS100 series can fail too — it's definitely good to know. I'm still looking for the holy grail slim smart plug that doesn't fail after a few years…

    • skillet on 02/04/2025 - 18:41

      There's a secondary capacitor inside which will dry out in 6-8 months of constant use. It would last longer if it was a 25V rated with higher capacitance instead of 10V but the accountant choose the part not the engineer. There's plenty of vertical space in the case so there's no excuse for a longer cap. It's a common issue with these Tplink smartplugs, I am on my second one lets hope they fixed it in this batch.

      • GenerallyClumsy on 03/04/2025 - 08:57

        So interesting. Is the underpowered cap in the new models?

        • Russ on 04/04/2025 - 14:58

          It's not underpowered, it's under-rated.

          Standard (cheapest) electrolytic caps are typically rated at 1000 hours life at 70 degrees C. 1000 hours is only a little over one month. But for every ten degrees difference between ambient temperature and rated temperature, the life of the capacitor doubles. So if ambient is an air-conditioned office at roughly 20C, that's 50 degrees difference, so the life will be 2^5 times rated life, or 32 x 1000 hours = 3.6 years.

          You can also buy electrolytic capacitors with 85C rating (industrial range), and even 125C rating (automotive). If an automotive cap was used in the situation above, it's life would be (125-20) = 105 degrees difference, so life is 1000 x 2^(10.5) or 1.45 million hours - 165 years!

          But caps with higher temperature rating are a little larger, and about 2-3 times the cost, so they don't get put into most consumer equipment.

          Increasing the voltage rating also boosts life, but not nearly as much as a higher temperature rating.

          • GenerallyClumsy on 04/04/2025 - 16:00

            @Russ: interesting…. but which models are the crap caps in?

            • Russ on 05/04/2025 - 10:21

              @GenerallyClumsy: At this price range, I'd expect all of them.

              Manufacturers aren't going to spend 50c extra per cap, when their likely profit margin is less than one dollar. They'd be massively reducing their profit.

              If you were buying a $1000 TV, more likely, as it's expensive enough that people would complain if they all failed at the three-year mark, and maybe raise ACCC complaints. And the manufacturer won't mind as much paying the extra 50c when their profit is maybe $50 per unit.

          • skillet on 12/04/2025 - 15:17

            @Russ: The cap cause premature failure is a 105c rated cap, but I don't know for how many hours. It is severely under rated, perhaps the ripple is too high for the cap to handle perhaps the cap itself is crap. I used the warranty for a Bunnings exchange didn't have a chance to open it. I read this in tplink forums.

            It's such a shame because I have 5V and 12V adapters from 20 years ago still functioning. While these smart things can't last a year.

            • Russ on 13/04/2025 - 00:11

              @skillet: Thanks for the update.

              perhaps the ripple is too high for the cap to handle perhaps the cap itself is crap.

              Neither would surprise me. But this video appears to show a resistor of 0.5W rating or higher, nestled between two large electrolytic caps, which will "cook" the capacitors. This video shows the UK version of the P100, but the Australian version is probably identical:
              https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=99iAK1JeAeo

              Without using 105C rated caps, the device would probably fail much faster.

              I'm not entirely sure that it is a resistor, it could be an RF choke, they look similar. But there's no reason I can see why an RF choke would be needed in that part of the circuit, between two 400V 4.7uF electrolytic caps.

              At a guess, I'd say the circuit is using the two 400V 4.7uF caps back-to-back, to create a 2.35uF bipolar electrolytic. This has an impedance of 1355 ohms at 50Hz, so the current with 240VAC across the cap pair will be 177mA. So they use the two caps as shunt impedance from 240V, going into a diode bridge, and then have a 5V zener and the third electrolytic cap to create a poorly-regulated 5V supply. The relay, when on, will consume about 100mA of the ~177mA available. That leaves up to 77mA available for the WiFi receiver circuit.

  • Nickelback on 01/04/2025 - 18:56
    +1

    Back in stock

    • turk182 on 01/04/2025 - 18:59

      Thanks. Saw your comment and ordered

    • basketballfreak6 on 01/04/2025 - 21:02

      Cheers bud snatched one too thanks to your update.

  • weaselman on 01/04/2025 - 19:03

    Does anyone know if these 'click' when they turn on/off? I'm hoping to find a smart socket that is silent but haven't had any luck yet.

    • Gav on 01/04/2025 - 19:52
      +2

      They click. P110 too.

    • John on 01/04/2025 - 20:00
      +8

      It's basically a relay which has a mechanical contact needed to interrupt the circuit. There's no way to avoid the clicking noise.

      • noisymime on 02/04/2025 - 09:12

        They could easily use a SSR in place of a mechanical relay like some of the larger hardwired switches do, but they'd never be able to do them at this price.

        • Russ on 04/04/2025 - 01:03

          They could easily use a SSR in place of a mechanical relay

          Sadly, no they couldn't. AC SSRs typically have 1.5V to 2V forward drop when "on", due to their output triac, which means they will dissipate 15W to 20W of heat with a 10A load. And they typically have a leakage current of a few milliamps when they're "off", which can make some things misbehave - like an LED desk lamp flashing every few seconds. The leakage current is because of the snubber circuit that protects the triac from inductive spikes. A snubber isn't normally needed for relays, so their leakage is zero in the off state.

          The heat is a real problem. Know how hot your 5W LED light globe gets when it has been running for an hour? Now imagine four times as much heat, in a much smaller volume. The plastic case of the smart switch would melt, and the SSR would burn out.

          This is why SSRs with a 10A and higher rating have a large metal tab on the back - they require thermal connection to a heatsink.

          In theory you could use MOSFET-output SSRs, which have a lower forward voltage drop, and will generate less heat. But they're usually only for switching DC, so no good for switching mains, and they're typically WAY more expensive, and way larger - about the size of a pack of playing cards. And would still need a heatsink, or be attached to the inside of a metal case to help conduct their heat away.

          It's disappointing that a relay is overall the best solution for a situation like this, but that's the way it is.

          • noisymime on 04/04/2025 - 10:40

            @Russ:

            The plastic case of the smart switch would melt, and the SSR would burn out.

            Heat is definitely a consideration, but that is mainly a matter of simply defining their limits. If you NEED to be regularly switching 10A through a smart switch then I think a heatsink is entirely reasonable. Realistically if you spec them at say 5A then the heat will be manageable and no one is going to notice the extra 8W or so on top of their 1200W load.

            Even with the mechanical relays, these cheap units aren't doing 10A reliably. My experience has been that anything over about 1000W (Which is less than 5A) through them for any prolonged time will lead to them dying.

            • Russ on 04/04/2025 - 14:28

              @noisymime:

              if you spec them at say 5A then the heat will be manageable

              Have a look at the heatsink size required. Given that ambient temperature can be 35 degrees in Summer, or hotter in some locations, to dissipate 10W of heat you need a 2-degrees-C-per-Watt heatsink to stay below the temperature at which third-degree skin burns start (55 degrees). Such heatsinks are roughly half the size of a 1-litre tetra pack, and then you have to put restrictions on where the smart switch can be used, like "needs to be in free air, can't put it behind your desk, can't put things around it".

              It also means you'd need to add a circuit breaker to the smart switch, to trip if the current was exceeded. Alternatively you could monitor the temperature of the SSD's thermal tab, and just turn off the SSD. Both options would make consumers unhappy, there will always be people who want to turn on their electric heater thirty minutes before they have to get out of bed.

              these cheap units aren't doing 10A reliably

              I don't disagree with you there, that's the difference between buying something rated for consumer use and something rated for industrial use. But an industrial-rated unit would be many times the price. I'm in the electronics industry, consumer equipment cuts all sorts of corners to make their items more profitable, and you've probably found one of those "corners".

              I've seen many ways that consumer equipment is deliberately designed to fail outside the warranty period. The classic way is to put an electrolytic power-supply capacitor right beside something that gets hot, like a relay or a current-sensing resistor. Which would lead to the "click of death" mentioned above.

              The failures of units at above 5A is probably due to contact damage on the relays. A snubber would likely reduce the damage, giving you longer life, but has its own problems (leakage), and can't be retro-fitted to something that already exists.

              • noisymime on 04/04/2025 - 15:02

                @Russ:

                Have a look at the heatsink size required. Given that ambient temperature can be 35 degrees in Summer, or hotter in some locations, to dissipate 10W of heat you need a 2-degrees-C-per-Watt heatsink to stay below the temperature at which third-degree skin burns start (55 degrees). Such heatsinks are roughly half the size of a 1-litre tetra pack

                I think you're vastly overestimating the (profanity) that are given for consumer products. There are laptop power bricks dissipating 15W or more these days, all within a relatively small package with plastic housing. Whilst they will have some thermal mass internally for heat sinking, they're certainly not using anything like a 1L tetra pack sized sinks.

                Granted they're still bulkier than your typical consumer switch and certainly more expensive.

                • Russ on 04/04/2025 - 15:11

                  @noisymime:

                  they're certainly not using anything like a 1L tetra pack sized sinks

                  They are. If you open one up, they're typically a metal cage around the electronics, and that's the heatsink. The heatsink is almost the entire size of the power brick, and the power brick does get toasty hot. The volume of the power bricks is about half the size of a 1L tetra pack.

                  dissipating 15W

                  Laptop power supplies are usually quite high efficiency, and rated around 65W output. 15W loss means 80W input, so efficiency would be 81% - quite low for a laptop power brick. Did you measure the power loss? You can't use the figures on the sticker to calculate efficiency or loss.

                  • noisymime on 04/04/2025 - 16:03

                    @Russ:

                    They are. If you open one up, they're typically a metal cage around the electronics, and that's the heatsink

                    Sorry I completely missed the 'half' in your comment and thought you meant a full 1L. The 140W supply I'm using at the moment is a bit smaller than half still (A LOT smaller than half if we're talking volume, like, a quarter of a a 1L tetra).

                    Laptop power supplies are usually quite high efficiency, and rated around 65W output.

                    As mentioned, the laptop I'm on now has a 140W supply, my gaming laptop is 170W. Granted the 170W one is a bit bigger, but not substantially so. At full tilt I've seen the 170W sucking in over 190W at the wall, so assuming its output was actually limited to 170W that's around 90% efficiency.

  • Shieldsy85 on 01/04/2025 - 19:20
    +3

    Have about 8x of these 2 dead after 18 months switching twice a day. For $11 could do worse for weaselman these do click but not crazy amount.

  • syswong on 01/04/2025 - 19:24

    Anyone living in unit / apartment using them to control LED downlight?

    I read you put these between the plug and the downlight wire line socket, leave the wall switch on and you have a cheap smart home lighting system.

    • maskedmustelid on 01/04/2025 - 19:43

      Pretty much what I'm intending to do with a bedside lamp + some display lighting in the lounge.

    • NinjaChicken on 01/04/2025 - 20:51

      I wouldn’t be confident using these in that scenario - the last thing I would want is a smart switch, with a questionable reputation in my roof cavity..

      • placard on 02/04/2025 - 09:39
        +2

        Agreed, especially given how hot ceiling cavities can get

      • NinjaChicken on 02/04/2025 - 09:59
        +1

        Wow, negs for suggesting people might want to consider electrical / fire safety before installing random adaptors in their roof space.

        Ahh well, I guess at least those people who negged will be able to keep warm this winter, basking in the glow of their house fire…

    • homersyd on 01/04/2025 - 21:06
      +2

      by the time you factor in the cost of this switch+downlight, might as well buy smart downlights for not much more…

  • uetecu on 01/04/2025 - 19:27
    -1

    How do these compare to Meross? Can these fit one socket without blocking the other?

    • huggle on 01/04/2025 - 19:28

      A lot smaller. Still block your socket if it’s too narrow

    • Hugh G Rection on 01/04/2025 - 20:04
      +1

      mine doesn't block, i can put 2 next to each other on the wall, and can even put 6 in a row on a power board. just trying to see if it won't block, and it doesn't.

    • deadpoet on 01/04/2025 - 23:54

      These are specifically slim enough not to block neighbouring power sockets.

  • PeeDee on 01/04/2025 - 19:42
    +1

    What do you guys use these for? I can't think of any uses

    • logisync on 01/04/2025 - 19:45
      +2

      Great for Christmas lights or lamps.

    • Ghogger on 01/04/2025 - 20:06

      I connect my sandwich press to it and can ask my google home in the kitchen to turn it on (it has no switch)

      • TestIgnoreMe on 01/04/2025 - 20:09
        +1

        Isn't that a lot of Watts?

    • Domingo on 01/04/2025 - 20:15
      +1

      Electric blankets (make them smart)
      Sensor lights to be on schedules so they don't operate during the day
      Make old-school lamps smart

      • PeeDee on 01/04/2025 - 20:32

        I see. Sounds like it'll benefit the non smart devices more.

        • Domingo on 01/04/2025 - 20:49

          Correct - usually smart devices have their own on/off capability through their smart platform.

          You could set one of these up to hard reboot a router at a certain time every day, if that kind of thing is you jam

    • sakurakiks on 01/04/2025 - 20:39

      I use the board version for my laptop now, stops it from charging all night if I've left it plugged in. Also for the Dyson, the battery is still hot right after using, so I plug it in but only ask it to turn it on later after its cooler (saves me a trip to the laundry) and lots of times I forget to charge it so having a schedule on helps a lot

      • PeeDee on 01/04/2025 - 20:58

        Dyson! Great one!! The charging is really annoying. The battery is still strong for more than 5 years. Makes me think that they have some kind of smart charger like how phones have adaptive charging feature nowadays.

    • basketballfreak6 on 01/04/2025 - 20:56

      My studio monitors/subwoofer setup; they all have individual power switches at the back (and sub is under the desk) which is a pain in the arse to have to turn on/off all the time. Also I have some RGB light strip and bars along the back of the desk, a light panel on the wall and a cheapo Kmart/Genio galaxy light thingy which combined provides just enough light to see what I am doing in the man cave while still keeping the room dark and moody when gaming and watching videos all connected to the Google Nest Hub so I can turn everything on/off together using voice command.

      • deadpoet on 01/04/2025 - 23:56
        +1

        My studio monitors/subwoofer setup; they all have individual power switches at the back (and sub is under the desk)

        This is exactly what I use my smart plug for as well. It's an absolute god-send.

    • MeesusEff on 02/04/2025 - 07:04

      Phone + tablet charger so I m not charging overnight.
      Dryer as I just use it for a few mins and don't need the cool off bit
      Vacuum and mop charger so it's not overcharging the battery
      Electric blanket in winter, handy to turn it on 5 mins before getting into bed.

      However, I've had at least 5 of these fail since I bought them years ago so ymmv I would invest in another brand

    • wynn83 on 02/04/2025 - 08:22

      I use mine for our reptile tank - I've had 3 fancy thermostats fail in the last 18mths (all replaced under warranty but I got over having to replace them). I've got these hooked up to the heating and UV lights and then a thermostat attached to the tank wall that controls when the heating lamp goes on and off. Setup has been working great for the last 6mths.

    • pl0nker on 02/04/2025 - 09:47
      • Home theatre equipment - subwoofer, TV, apple tv, xbox, receiver, lamp etc..
      • Use it in the study to schedule power for laptop, monitors, subwoofer, chargers and an ethernet switch.
      • In the kitchen - coffee machine, grinder, toaster oven and air fryer

      i had the KP115 kasa series and they all eventually died. I've replaced them with the Matter ones now, hopefully they will last longer…

  • Hank Scorpion on 01/04/2025 - 19:44
    +1

    Hopefully these are better then the KP115, I had two of those fail, they would constantly switch the relay on and off until you disconnect them. Each were about 3-4 years old.

    • deadpoet on 01/04/2025 - 23:57
      +2

      These are the same, you'll get a ~40% failure rate after 2-3 years. I don't know how TP-Link gets away with making them like this for years on end.

      • Hank Scorpion on 03/04/2025 - 19:29
        +1

        If that's the case I'd avoid, I caught both pretty quickly after it started happening but I'd not like to have something plugged into a relay that is constantly cycling.

  • neonlight on 01/04/2025 - 20:17
    -5

    Don't buy you will get hacked. Also this version does not "Matter"

  • randOmug on 01/04/2025 - 20:18
    +2

    I don't mind if they die in 6 months. But I don't want them die in such a violent way. Don't use them on expensive appliances.

  • noshopping on 01/04/2025 - 20:31
    +1

    Yeh if you bought a few, expect 1/4 to fail within 2 years. :(
    They really need to make an updated version that's more reliable. Otherwise app, feature & pricing is great.

  • fightshatner on 01/04/2025 - 20:37

    Running two of these for the last 3 years ish and they've been solid.

  • moony on 01/04/2025 - 20:49

    Does this work for the outdoor settings with exposure to rain? If not, any recommendations please.

  • GregRust on 01/04/2025 - 20:55

    OOS

  • SevenSmurfs on 01/04/2025 - 20:55
    +1

    Mine failed in that it would switch on and off randomly

    • chew_chew on 01/04/2025 - 21:03

      This same model? How long did you have it before it failed?

      • MeesusEff on 02/04/2025 - 07:09
        +1

        I've had at least 5 fail during the past few years, it's all randomised. One was for a heater that I barely used (less than a handful of times), phone charger that was used frequently but failed before 6 months, some maybe 2 years on. Most of the owns that fail would click on and off few times in a second, so that's lucky as it's quite audible. But the phone one didn't click on and off, it got really hot and started smoking, good thing I happened to be right there to unplug it.

        • neonlight on 02/04/2025 - 08:36
          +2

          It's usually the capacitor failing. Pretty poor quality if you ask me. Stay away from tp link. Smart powerboard is even worse

  • conork on 01/04/2025 - 21:34
    +1

    It's back in stock, I just bought 2.
    No idea what I'll use it for 😂

  • MrPants on 01/04/2025 - 21:39

    FYI, it's back in stock.

    • p3j on 01/04/2025 - 22:02

      Just copped!

  • mkowarkski on 01/04/2025 - 21:46

    If you have Perks voucher, it will be $10 at JB:

    https://www.jbhifi.com.au/products/tp-link-tapo-mini-smart-p…

    • b-t on 01/04/2025 - 21:56
      +3

      If Amazon still has stock tomorrow, then….

      Go to JB, ask for a price match with Amazon @ $11
      Then use Perks voucher

      It will be $1 :)

  • abhiz on 01/04/2025 - 22:04

    Still in stock.

  • iDroid on 01/04/2025 - 22:05

    Back in stock.

  • bNiNja on 01/04/2025 - 22:33
    +1

    You can buy smart tuya power plugs from Ali for $4 each. Link tuya app with google home (or just use it in the tuya app).

    Happy so far. Using for a month.

    • aong152 on 01/04/2025 - 22:48
      +2

      My main concern might be insurance if your house burns down. Ok if you're plugging it into low voltage (e.g. a lightbulb or two). At least if the tp-link ones burn down, they've got certs to run in Australia.

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