When Is It Time for a New Car?

I know - a bit like how long is a piece of string.

Currently I drive a 2008 BMW 120d E87 My07 U 5d Hatchback 6 speed automatic, 4 cyl diesel turbo, 2.0l . That’s almost 18 years old. Cost me around $45K before trade in back in 2008.

Total distance to date 107,000 kilometres.

The car had an ANCAP 5 star rating when bought. Leather interior. Average sound system - but I listen to news radio 90% of the time anyway, so it seems fine. I have had an after market CarPlay system professionally installed with a wired backing camera. The car came with rear backing sensors only.

Overall it's in very good condition IMHO - no significant exterior damage at all; interior in very good condition; complete service history.

New tyres (Run flats) about 7000km ago and a new battery in the last 2 months.
New brakes probably 20,000 km ago….
Always garaged undercover in a lock-up garage.
Currently fuel consumption according to the instrument cluster averages around 6l/100km.
Mechanically AFAIK it runs perfectly.
I can get from Canberra to the other side of Melbourne easily on a single tank of diesel - approx. 700km.

Currently I have “market value” comprehensive insurance for around $500/yr.

Nowadays I drive around Max 100-125km/week with a few longer distance trips a couple of times a year (Canberra->Melbourne/Sydney etc). Overall around/just-over 5000km/year.

Looking at current market value - private sales are around $5500. :-( . However I am definitely more of a trade in than private sale type of person.

There's no one in the family to pass it on to, and no room to keep it AND a new car.

Why am I even considering a new car? Well this one is relatively old, outdated stylistically and electronically ( I like gadgets :-) ); it’s diesel which I gather is also not the best environmentally and I like the concept of a hybrid - although I am aware of the arguments against them and their manufacturing costs etc. I don’t want this to become an old car that starts “falling apart” with the inconvenience of having it off the road irregularly; I also don’t want a NEW car that fails to perform at least equivalently and has limited distance for the few times I drive interstate.

Whilst not looking for new car recommendations I would add that I would be looking for a new Hybrid something like a compact SUV - Hybrid Corolla cross, Nissan Qashqai etc..not interested in all electric although you may think they would be ideal for me.

So the question is - do I drive it “into the ground” and then get a new car OR do I trade it in/sell it NOW and get a new car?

Perhaps Drive it until I hit 150k? (That’s at least another 5-10 years!)

When do you decide the time is right to get a new car?

Open to opinions :-)

Poll Options

  • 413
    Drive it until it dies!
  • 2
    Sell it after another ~ 25,000kms etc
  • 8
    Sell now - maximise trade in value
  • 31
    New cars smell better - go for it
  • 5
    You've missed the boat....

Comments

Search through all the comments in this post.
  • +34

    When you have more money in the bank and all the other wants are satisfied.

    • -1

      Yep.

      Actually Sounds like OP doesnt "need" a new car right now.

      Hence priority should be given elsewhere

      Although with a BMW the rule of thumb is to get rid of them when they are 10 years old

  • +37

    Sell now - maximise trade in value

    At best you will get $1k trade in whether it's now or in 5 years time. It's just a courtesy service by a dealership to encourage you to sign up for a new car. They don't want your nearly 20yo beemer with all the bells and whistles. It will be on a truck to a wholesaler the next day.

  • +25

    Get it up to 300,000km and then give it a Viking funeral.

    • +14

      I'll have had my own Viking funeral by then :D

      • +8

        You hardly drive, do you even need a car? Lol, definitely EV or Hybrid would be a waste.

      • +25

        if you're up there in the years yourself, f*** it i say, treat yourself to a new car. Dont even think about it. Just do it and enjoy.

        • +8

          if you're up there in the years yourself, f*** it i say, treat yourself to a new car. Dont even think about it. Just do it and enjoy.

          You, Sir, are an enabler :D

          nb 300,000 km (another 200k) would be about another 40 years for me! Many of us will be approach a Viking funeral in another 40 years methinks!

        • +6

          treat yourself to a new car. Dont even think about it. Just do it and enjoy

          Problem is that a new car might not necessarily be all that much better to justify enjoy the change.

          Yes it will spanking new but will/could bring a string of also new annoyances of all kinds.

          New is not necessarily better.

          • +2

            @LFO: can u really beat the euphoria bought from inhaling authentic new car smell tho?

            • +3

              @Jimothy Wongingtons: Nope! :-]

              Definitely not … but unfortunately goes away within a few … 6 months? … a lot less if a smoker.

  • +22

    outdated stylistically and electronically ( I like gadgets :-) );

    Get yourself a CarPlay /Android auto upgrade. There are a few options, you may be able to use existing display. I guess there is not much space to add a new display?

    it’s diesel which I gather is also not the best environmentally

    The best thing environmentally is to keep it going, especially given the distance you drive.

    Economically, there is no reason to sell. You won't get much. If you like the car, (and you should) keep it until it needs a repair that costs more than its worth. Don't go spending much on it.

    • +6

      Get yourself a CarPlay /Android auto upgrade.

      Yup - done that - with a backing camera

      The best thing environmentally is to keep it going,

      Hmm didn't think of it like that… Sensible comment!

      • +1

        I'm in a similar situation. I've added wireless AA with speaker upgrade and reverse camera to my old beater. Very tempted by the bells and whistles of the current EV offerings but I would need to spend at least 60-70k to come close to the fundamentals of what I already have.

        It's capable of taking kayaks on the roof, mountain bike in the back (without removing anything), towing a decent load and doing some light off roading.

        Also, better the devil you know. I'll try to wait till mine starts giving me problems. And in your case at 6L/100km, a hybrid is going to add cost and complication while barely improving economy.

  • +5

    When your wife has that look in her eyes and fast-forward a year, you'll need a bigger car.

    • +11

      When your wife has that look in her eyes and fast-forward a year, you'll need a bigger car.

      She is even less inclined toward a new car than I am! If you are thinking of a family expansion - not happening :D

      • +10

        She is even less inclined toward a new car than I am!

        Sounds like a keeper

        • +1

          Yeah, it's the big padded gloves that give it away.

  • +8

    Ive got a 2005 mazda 3 with 210000kms that I've has since new..
    I'm in the same boat as you, its still a good car and does what I need (work and back) and now it is now only worth $2000 if I trade or sell it - kinda hard to know what to do.

    Prob will depend on how many small or major issues come up in the next few years

    • +5

      You will be lucky to even get $1,000 for trade in

    • +1

      Keep it

    • +3

      Start saving for a replacement. The longer it keeps going the better your budget will be IF it fails. If its got this far, its unlikely to have an engine or gearbox failure. However, if something like the AC goes it might be time for an upgrade.

    • Driving a small reliable old car is peak.

      You're literally thousands of bucks a year better off than the morons with a new Jeep on finance, with all their big repairs, hefty interest, and paying the insurance excess to fix tiny scratches that don't matter on an older car.

      Would you sell a car that had a hundred dollar note magically appearing in the glovebox once or twice a week?

  • +5

    2:30pm

    • +24

      That will conflict with OP's appointment at the dentist.

  • +17

    107,000 kilometres

    Pretty low relatively

    Mechanically AFAIK it runs perfectly.

    Very good

    not the best environmentally and I like the concept of a hybrid

    Building an entirely new car will be far more envariomentally damaging unless you are driving a lot more than you do currently

    I like gadgets

    Save the money on a new car and buy some gadets for yourself and the car, getting an Apple Carplay thing put in would probably be a nice upgrade.

    • +5

      Building an entirely new car will be far more environmentally damaging unless you are driving a lot more than you do currently

      People usually over-estimate the amount of environmental damage associated with building a new car, and simultaneously underestimate the amount of environmental damage done by burning fossil fuels during normal driving.

      An average 15+ year old petrol car will emit over 5 tonnes of CO2 annually (assuming 12,000km). A brand new petrol car will cost less than 8 tonnes of CO2 to build from scratch, and will have significantly lower emissions during its lifetime due to higher efficiency and better emissions controls. So there's a strong argument that buying a new car can actually be better, under the right circumstances.

      But in this particular case, it doesn't add up.

  • +19

    wtf consumerism at its peak
    Stop listening to people or marketing telling you the car needs replacement.

    Half the people can’t tell it’s 18 or 8 years old until you tell them.

    If the car runs mechanically and doesn’t leak like 90% of bmws do, you’re perfectly fine to keep onto it.

  • +13

    The most environmentally friendly option would be to continue to drive it till it dies if you are worrying about that.
    If it's in good nick and working fine then the only real justification for an upgrade is because you want one. Which is fine, but I wouldn't try to justify it on other grounds.

    • +1

      This! The most environmentally friendly thing you can do if that is your motivator is to keep your current car running!

      • +4

        Hmmm. The most environmentally friendly thing you can do is to not drive. Buy a used push bike.

        In the short term, its arguably better to maintain the diesel car. But If you were to purchase an EV that is a few years old, that would be better than continuing to drive any diesel. Only takes a couple of year and an EV has offest its increased manufactuing emissions compared to an ICE car. After that, there is much less emitted by an EV.

        • -5

          Very contested stats on that point. Do your figures take into account the very damaging extraction process for the materials required in batteries? Also an EV has a larger single point of failure, plenty of stories about batteries going bad and people being quoted 50 grand to replace it. It's an emerging technology so probably is stabilizing as they become more mainstream but it's certainly not settled.

          Even if you just look at it from a point of minimizing waste, the longer that OP maintains and keeps driving his car the longer it stays out of a wrecking yard and the materials used to construct it are serving a productive use.

          • +1

            @LanceVance:

            Very contested stats on that point.

            Only by people who haven't looked into it very hard, and/or get their information from dubious sources.

            Do your figures take into account the very damaging extraction process for the materials required in batteries?

            Yes, they do. The "damaging extraction process" is vastly over-hyped and is mostly misinformation. That's not to say that it can't be improved - this is getting better all the time with the introduction of improved processes and alternative battery chemistries.

            plenty of stories about batteries going bad and people being quoted 50 grand to replace it

            There are a few rare examples, amplified by dubious sources. Statistics show that 99% of EVs made since 2013 still have their original battery, and almost all of the failures are manufacturer faults covered under under warranty (8 years minimum).

            Testing of used EV shows that battery degradation is nowhere near as bad as many feared, and there are plenty of examples of >400,000km EVs getting around these days. It's not hard to source a replacement battery for around $6-7k for popular models.

            Even if you just look at it from a point of minimizing waste, the longer that OP maintains and keeps driving his car the longer it stays out of a wrecking yard

            Presumably OP would sell the car in working order to somebody who intends to drive it, rather than dumping it outside the local wrecker.

            • @klaw81:

              Presumably OP would sell the car in working order to somebody who intends to drive it, rather than dumping it outside the local wrecker.

              Umm yup - definitely my preference :D Even if it is to a dealer at a steep discount!

          • +1

            @LanceVance:

            Do your figures take into account the very damaging extraction process for the materials required in batteries?

            Have you conveniently forgotten about the toxic extraction and refining process for SINGLE USE fossil fuels? But yes, the extra manufacturing emissions for batteries are offset after 2 years.

            Also an EV has a larger single point of failure, plenty of stories about batteries going bad and people being quoted 50 grand to replace it.

            Those stories are exaggerated by pro fossil fuel media to scare off EV buyers. 50k is a made up number. Battery costs have come down by a factor of 10 in the last few years and will continue to drop. When you can buy a whole car for $30k, the battery cannot cost $50k.

            Recent reports show batteries last well over 200k km and that degradation slows significantly at 85% remaining capacity. You are no more likely to need to change a battery than you are to replace an ICE engine or transmission. Noone asks how much and engine costs when they buy a car.

  • +4

    If you can afford to go without a car for a week or two while you source a replacemwnt, just keep driving until something needs repairing that costs more than the trade in value then replace. Especially this if you have funds avaialble at short notice.

    If you are really concious of the environmental factor, then buying a new petrol car will not be any advantage, hybrid wont be any better. Buying an EV however, the changeover in emissions from construction vs continuing diesel emissions could be as little as 2 years.

    IMO there are two 'right' times to upgrade a car. When you have spare cash or qhen your needs change - eg extra kid seat, want to tow something bigger, kids left home so downsizing etc.

  • +8

    I wouldnt trade it in while it's still in good nick. They will give you bugger all regardless of it being in good nick or not, as it is in good nick with low KM so I'd be looking at selling privately.

    Sometimes this is when cars are at their best. They arent worth much so it really doesnt matter if something happens to it, just run it into the ground but keep servicing it. When she has had enough she will tell you.

  • +5

    2008 - it’s the kind of age where (ignoring the make/model/kms), you’ll start having “old car problems” very soon - if not already.

    Stuff like dried out rubber bushings and seals spell the death of a car by a thousand cuts: suspension bushings, shock absorbers, rubber intake and cooling pipes/hoses.

    Most of these won’t stop the car from working, but will ultimately compromise its reliability and safety/grip. Do you want to pay for all those repairs, or are you happy driving a somewhat compromised vehicle until something major goes bang? No aspersions, either way is valid - but that’s the choice we can’t make for you

    • -1

      The missus is a bit like that , but it's no reason for a trade in

    • Suspension - upgrade to coilovers?
      Rubber intake - move to cold air intake?

  • +3

    Stuff like dried out rubber bushings and seals spell the death of a car by a thousand cuts: suspension bushings, shock absorbers, rubber intake and cooling pipes/hoses.
    Most of these won’t stop the car from working, but will ultimately compromise its reliability and safety/grip.

    THIS is what I want to avoid… I guess it depends on what "into the ground" means on an individual level….

    • Do you have a regular mechanic you trust, have you asked them about any points of concern?

      • +2

        Do you have a regular mechanic you trust, have you asked them about any points of concern?

        Yup - from his perspective there is nothing significantly wrong at the moment. Suggested it could be good for another 200,000 kms!

        I guess I am balancing the pragmatic side of "it runs well and could continue to do so for years" against "I would like to rationalise a new car" :-D

        Cost really isn't an issue.

        Hence the question of when do YOU start considering a new car…

        • +7

          Fair enough. Me personally I take care of my cars very well and hold onto them for a long time. I've had 4 cars and here's why I'd departed from the previous 3:

          1. Had over 400,000km's and looming repairs would be worth more than the car. Also breakdowns were getting frequent. Ended up selling it to the RACV guy who came to the latest breakdown.
          2. Written off.
          3. Moved overseas.

          Still on #4 which is doing the job well but may change due to changing needs if we have child #2.
          So long story short, 2 reasons.

          1. Changing needs.
          2. No longer worth cost of repairing.

          If I were in your situation I'd hold onto it.

  • +5

    do I drive it "into the ground?"

    Frankly, I am surprised it lasted this long. If it is still going, it is one of the very very few that are the exception to the rule. I would keep driving it until something explodes, engine, gearbox, ABS, diff, SRS… It's only a matter of time. Once that big ticket item blows up, just drop it off to the closest wrecker and get something else.

  • -1

    Every 5 years or less

  • +5

    I usually drive my cars to just over 200,000km and then sell them while they're still running well.

  • +5

    Drive until dead.

    Spend the car upgrade money on a better house instead, or to renovate/improve your house. That $50k, if spent wisely, might bring you an extra $100k-$300k in future when you sell your house.

  • +5

    As I am in the same situation as OP, (2008 vehicle owned since new, still runs well, 315k on the clock, Euro) and only worth a private sale around $3,000 I was thinking of just driving it until it really starts costing me,i.e. drive until dead, not worth the cost of repairing.

    Thank you to the commenters who suggest keeping it and address the issue when it really starts playing up.

  • like the concept of a hybrid -

    Gonna need to drive more than 5000km/year to justify the cost.

    Drive would be better though.

  • +2

    I sold my 2005 E90 last year, owned it since new. Also around 100k kms. Did tons of DIY over the years to save money until the oil leaks were too much. I miss that car though. Fantastic vehicle. If you know DIY, worth keeping it longer.

  • +2

    You hardly drive, why waste money on a depreciating asset. Run it until a major expense comes up or it does completely, then buy a newer car, but used. New is just throwing money away for no reason.

  • +3

    Drive it until you hit an expense more than the car might be worth ($3-5k plus I guess), or otherwise until the FBT exemption for EVs looks like it's going away, and then ditch it to upgrade to a tax-free EV.

  • +4

    Hold on to it but see if you can reduce the ongoing costs - for a car of that vintage, consider switching to third party insurance? might be able to save a couple of hundred.

    The rest you have done, i.e. installed latest tech to it.

  • +1

    As a wholesale/trade-in it's worth $1k-$2k but as a trade-in that price could be falsely inflated by digging into margin.

    We sold our 2000 Mazda 323 when the AC broke and the repair was approx $1500 with no guarantee that something else in the AC system wouldn't break fairly quickly after repair. Given there were a few other small issues worth a few hundred on the horizon we decided to sell it. We got $1500 for it which we thought fair.
    Bought a used Golf Alltrack for $23500. I doubt it will be as reliable or long lasting as the Mazda.

  • +3

    I really admire and respect people who keep their cars and drive them into the ground.

    I had a Lexus IS250 for 13 years and 100,000 km. I was hoping to keep it for as long as possible, but I ended up giving it to family. Then came my midlife crisis, so I bought a Kia Stinger. Luckily, I got it just before the pandemic hit the car industry, so the price I paid was reasonable. So far, it has been a fun ride and no engine fire yet.

    I also have a 2015 Nissan X-Trail that’s now at 100,000 km. I bought it when my son was born to move the newborn around. I plan to keep it until both my son and daughter are old enough to drive the car they grew up with, which will be in about nine years. Let’s see if the CVT lasts that long.

  • +2

    Sooo I was in a similar position, but with a much cheaper car. I drive a bit more than you though not massively (10000 km a year).

    Had a lancer 2008 ES. Bought a brand new civic hybrid last year august. My lancer was at 185000km tho and the paint was functionally gone from the roof/boot and a few other spots (clearcoat peel). Mechanically sound, though a little rough over bumps. I could have easily have taken it over 200-250k without too much fuss - not once did it break down.

    But I, too, like new toys, and wanted a hybrid (we rent, so a non-plug in hybrid was a great choice in our instance). Unfortunately I found a corolla hybrid even more of a boring drive to my lancer (1.8L we drove in Madeira just has no pull after 60-70km/h and the ev push is gone), and boot sizes were comical so decided against that.

    In hindsight, over a year later, I would have probably told my old self, if I wanted something newer but to spend far less, I would've capped my budget at ~30k used <5 years old (2020 onwards) with relatively low km (Probably a Mazda 3 2020 SP25 2.5L, also tiny boot/rear seats but we're DINK, not a massive deal in most cases, just wanted not a corolla really!). The fuss of keeping this car clean/ceracoated, and the small incidents I've had with it (minor rear end to me, separately, scrape on a carpark) etc etc has been more stress than I expected. The car itself is functionally perfect, however and I do love driving it. But ultimately, I absolutely could've run my lancer into the ground

    Why am I even considering a new car? Well this one is relatively old, outdated stylistically and electronically ( I like gadgets :-) ); it’s diesel which I gather is also not the best environmentally and I like the concept of a hybrid - although I am aware of the arguments against them and their manufacturing costs etc. I don’t want this to become an old car that starts “falling apart” with the inconvenience of having it off the road irregularly; I also don’t want a NEW car that fails to perform at least equivalently and has limited distance for the few times I drive interstate.

    Soooo this is where I probably blundered.. Realistically, I needed new suspension, a new undertray (I was keeping it held together with zip ties but it was split in the middle with no easy way to self repair without jacking it up - I don't own jack stands etc).. and another transmission service (CVT, not a bad one either, never had any issues as long as I kept the transmission oil swapped more regularly than the owners book recommended). OEM parts would've seen me at 3-4k to keep it running well. THe car was worth 3-5k on used market at the time private, 1-1.5k trade in at a dealer (i got 1k swap)… Realistically, I could've kept mine.

    Yours, however is a BMW. Higher running costs/service costs most likely, and more expensive parts… BUT if you've not ACTUALLY had any major issues/breakdowns; the 'falling apart' argument is a silly one (definitely one I used for my own purchase) - as the car has given you no reason to doubt it's mechanical stability up til now (presumably).

    TLDR; drive it until it gives you a proper reason to bin it not just a 'because I feel like it' like I did. You may feel like you're spending a lot to keep it running, but you will still spend exponentially more on something new.

    (Side note.. As a recommendation if you really wanted a like compact SUV Hybrid, Honda HR-V would be your go-to, over 10k cheaper than my civic hybrid, taller so easier to get into, decent space, only a 4 seater though* but great fuel economy and a super smooth drive. It's not as peppy as the Civic but I personally prefer the Honda Hybrid system over Toyotas for smoothness/pickup)

  • -1

    I feel like this next couple of years. and even the past 2-3 yrs, is a risky time to spend your own hard-earned to buy a car. If you're using someone else's, go for it. If you only need it for a 3yr lease, that's fine too.

    New manufacturers in the market are largely unknown, how many will still be around in the next 3-5 years?
    Similarly, the disruption is hurting the established manufacturers. European, and to a lesser extent Japanese, manufacturers are struggling.

    Some of the vehicles produced in the past 5 years have shitty safety software, will that get better? 2015 was peak motor car is becoming real.

    I wouldn't buy a new ICE if you're expecting to keep it and have parts available in the next 10-15 years.

    • -4

      I wouldn't buy a new ICE if you're expecting to keep it and have parts available in the next 10-15 years.

      Rubbish. The power grid cannot sustain this magical shift to "everyone having an EV" narrative that keeps getting spun. It's just not going to happen.

      • +2

        The power grid can easily cope with gradual adoption of EVs over a 10-15 year period. The vast majority will be charging at home using granny chargers every 4-5 days.

  • I have a 2005 V8 with 200,000K, I love it. With Cylinder displacement it gets me to the Shell at Dickson at 100Km/10Lt. (come close to pushing a few times) . 2011 Lexus CT 200h with 180,000K provides the balance. 4.1lt per 100K
    Both are there because i like them, and gave up giving a Rats about all decorative cars around now.

  • is the ashtray full?

  • -5

    it’s diesel which I gather is also not the best environmentally

    The cheapest and most environmentally friendly car is the one you already drive assuming it still works.

    EV's are absolutely NOT environmentally friendly. Even looking at the GAS vs ELECTRIC usage alone, where do you think the electricity is coming from?

  • +2

    From a pure financial perspective the answer is 'when it dies' cars are assests that have steep depreciation they get you from A-to-B as long as it does that there is no 'need' to change.

    However money isnt the only factor….

    Other things to consider

    Current saftey ratings cars made 10 years ago would have a zero-to-1 star ANCAP rating in most cases. Stastically you're far more likely to have a serious injury or death in older cars due to a lack of modern saftey features.

    Personal driving preference you spend google AI says the average Aussie spends 4 years over their life driving or 19 full days worth a year you want to be comfortably and happy with what your a spending a large proportion of you life in.

    lifestyle/style a long with personal driving preference. Style is a real consideration. Just like cloths with fashion choices your life changes and so does your choice of style and/or needs. A lot of people in Aus upgrade to a Mid/large SUV when they have kids etc

  • +1

    If market value is $5500 then a dealer won't buy this car. They need 5k margin. :)

  • +2

    I have a 2007 Territory that is thirsty and starting to fail.

    I am hoping to get another six months out of it before I make the change. I've have had it for 11 years, it has served me well and despite the thirsty nature of it, it has only broke down (starter) once in that time.

    For work, I drive near new cars. One thing that has made me think about selling it lately is the safety aspect. All these work cars have all sorts of safety features that mine does not. I do a lot of high speed highway driving and my car has two airbags and ABS. That is about it. So from a safety aspect and now it is starting to cost me money regularly, its time to retire it.

  • +1

    Driving it into the ground sounds fun but it's better to buy a car on your own terms. Though you could rent for a little while after your BMW breaks until you buy the replacement. From the sounds of it you aren't looking to preorder a new car.

  • Opinions are like assholes etc.
    Seeking 'opinions' on OzB is pointless.
    If you want to buy a new car, just do it.
    If you want to keep your existing car, do that instead.
    Do whatever you like.
    Think for yourself - you won't find the answer on the internet.

    • +1

      Think for yourself - you won't find the answer on the internet.

      They're not under any obligation to follow advice from anyone, so how can asking the question hurt?

      Getting a bunch of opinions from different people can allow you to consider every aspect of the question, provide additional perspectives from other's experiences, and perhaps see alternative options you hadn't thought of.

      In fact, I'd strongly suggest that this is exactly what such forums are for.

      • -1

        Fair enough. Let me rephrase that - you may find the answer on the internet, just not on OzB.

  • I can think of more enjoyable ways of spending $50k than refreshing the style of my vehicle and playing with some new car gadgets that beep at me.

    • +2

      The beeps and things on a new car can be quite annoying. Your okder car may not have lane keeper or auto braking, but its equally not going to annoy you by beeping and tugging on the wheel randomly and its not going to brake suddenly despite the car thats slowing in front turning out of the way.

  • +2

    Find a good workshop that is familiar with the vehicle and its weaknesses ( NOT a BMW dealer) Then keep up the maintenance they recommend. Then keep it until it eventually dies… It only has just over 100k km which is not a lot for a well maintained vehicle.

    You may want to get a real spare tyre and get rid of the run flats next time you replace the tyres. That will save you some $$. Other friends with BMWs and run flats hate the run flat tyres.

    • We hired a BMW 3 series Msport with run flats. Got a puncture 120km out of the city. Hissing out air. 7 hours stranded. Car had to be towed. We had to find our own way back to the city. I will NEVER buy a car with run flats or a puncture kit after that! It’s getting harder to find these though!

      • +4

        That’s the thing about run flats- you can drive the car without any air in the tyres.

        • Both Sixt, RAA and the local tyre shop told us it was undriveable. Major sidewall puncture. I know someone who was stranded in the outback for days in a similar situation (though why you’d go to the outback with run flats is beyond me!)

          • @Gesiet: A puncture (1st post) is very different to a Major sidewall puncture (2nd post) lol

            • @JimB: My point is, run flats are useless when there’s a major puncture. I will never buy a car without a space saver.

  • +3

    We have a 2005 BMW 530d Msport with 374km on the clock. Still going. Radio and parking sensors are toast, and the front bumper is a bit loose (been caught a few too many times on those concrete stoppers in car parks). They don’t make them like this anymore (says BMW). Insured for TPP only. Hoping to reach 400km. Will do something to celebrate its 21st next year! lol

  • +3

    I assume that you can afford a new car.
    The only 2 reasons that I can see to replace a good working car are:
    You would like a new car - and there's a car you quite like (as valid as other reasons)
    Safety.
    Your 18 yo vehicle has outdated safety systems.
    This should not be under rated. If you car can help you avoid an injury that could lessen you life span or enjoyment it is absolutely worth it.

    If, and only if you decide to get a new car, an EV charged at home would give you very low running costs into the future, expending capital now in exchage for reduced outgoings in the future.
    There is also a potential to purchase something that assists driving ( Tesla has 'full self driving option' but others are coming) this potentially can extend your independence as you age

    These are 'ifs' - but the safety aspect is real and shouldnt be ignored.

  • a colleague who asked me for advice on buying a car - I told him to "buy the cheapest car your ego can afford - if your ego needs shiny new to try to impress people, then you may want to do that - spending money you don't have, to buy stuff you don't need, to impress people you don't like"

    Not needing a car anymore in retirement, I sold my 31yo Honda to a guy who was gonna spend heaps on it to restore it to new condition - as a classic car !

  • +1

    I just updated from my 27 year old KIA that has only done 74000 klms only because I didn’t trust driving long distances and feared breaking down in the middle of nowhere. I have had an engine light come on several times when driving on freeways and because it is so old, hardly any mechanics have the old style plugs to diagnose and when I found one that did, they couldn’t specify exactly what the problem was so it would have been an expensive exercise checking the numerous possible issues. That plus the volume button on the radio no longer worked neither do the back struts on the hatch and a few other things.
    I did not want t9 buy a new car but I felt it was necessary to get my independence back and be able to drive anywhere I want without fear.
    Now having a hard time letting it go.
    I think you have to weigh up if any issues with the car are restricting you or annoying you enough to fork out some cash.
    Anyway that is my story on why I recently bought one.
    Best of luck whatever you decide to do.

  • If it is a euro car, probably right after it runs its warranty period.

    If you own a second hand euro, just drive it into the ground with mandatory maintenance. Then get a new car.

    I own both a once new and second hand euro.

  • Business tax concessions make it somewhat attractive to update a car regularly. Without this incentive it makes sense to use the car until it ceases to be reliable ( as others have said) - good luck with your consideration

  • +2

    I actually don’t mind driving an ilder but still safe car.

    I wouldn’t wan’t to dive a 20yo Corolla without ESC but a 20yo BMW is still a safe car.

    Just drive it until it gives you trouble and then decide whether to fix it or scrap it at that age.

    Your car has little value today. Anyone who specifically want an older 1 series will go for the 123d or 130i hatchbacks or if they really want to push their luck, a 135i.

    If you’re somewhat handy, learn how to change the oil and all the filters yourself to save some money. A service history matters little to the wreckers. BMWs are quite easy to change the oil and filters.

    I scrapped my 17yo VW as it was leaking oil, leaking sunroof and wouldn’t start. At that point, I didn’t bother fixing it.

    Replaced it with a GR86. Will service it myself once out of warranty. Will keep all the invoices for oil and filters if I ever sell it to some young enthusiast.

  • keep it, if it drives fine and you like driving it still keep going. unless you can claim it for work like a lease or a business claim car no point in getting a new one, the more computer tech in it the more issues you will be getting with new ones.

  • +1

    A new car is due when your 2012 subaru liberty has done 315k, got a likely blown head gasket, but you have kept it going for nearly 2 years with just 2x 5l mixed coolant. Its done its job, pick up the forester tomorrow :)

    Picked it up at 3yo in 2015 for $10,500 plus onroadd when it had done 166,000kms. I think thats around $2.72 a day. Guaranteed $500 from wreckers, but might try for $1500 as a private sale

  • +1

    I value safety, comfort and hassle free ownership. Then cost.
    Sold a 12yr old SUV in great condition around 90k km, but the suspension was getting rough, the cvt questionable and the safety features lacking.
    Have some fun researching good drives. Maybe even try a rental out. (I loved my Hertz Mustangs in the USA). Start a spreadsheet of cars that appeal to compare the features that matter to you.
    You like gadgets. Find a car that’s enjoyable with a bit of style. Maybe it’s time for a convertible. Or a hot hatch. You’ve enjoyed your beemer, don’t settle for a whitegoods standard boring set of wheels.
    Your new wheels are going to cost you - make it worthwhile.

  • Every 2-3 years.

  • +2

    I recently upgraded from a 2007 Mazda 3 which I had run into the ground (needed 2-3k of work) but still had a solid engine so I just flogged it off for 2k on marketplace to a BYD Shark for 57K

    I never thought I'd be a new car buyer, The Mazda was a bit of a deathtrap. I'm over 40 now and I also like gadgets, can afford it and figured I can have something nice for once in my life.
    It can drive for free for 80kms from my solar, is fast as hell and is very nice and fun to drive and my dog can ride on the back to the dog park every day without getting the inside of the car dirty.

    If you are in the same position, you only live once, you might be dead by 65, if it makes you happy consider it.

    You are also in a good position that you don't need to buy ASAP, you can shop around, test drive, do research, put in lowball offers. You might want to wait another 6 months for the new model of something with new tech you like to come out and it won't matter to you as you can keep driving this until your ready to pull the trigger.

  • keep it. if you have progeny, by the time they need to learn, you will have a reliable banger type car which will be easy for them to learn on and then when they get their license add them to the insurance policy as a cheaper way to build up their no claim bonus. They will thank you in the future.

  • +1

    The problem with driving it till it dies is that things like BMW's tend to age really badly and cost a fortune just to continue to limp along and having to deal with being on the side of the road waiting for towing or NRMA sucks donkey dongers. sadly I kept my current car too long too, Mercedes CLA class, the electrical gremlins are just starting to rear their ugly expensive heads now, was hoping to wait till after my house build was complete to sell, now I wish I sold earlier in the year so I could avoid the latest round of eye watering repairs.

  • +1

    Lets be realistic about the gadgets here, with the exception of apple carplay / android auto how many gadgets can you use while driving? I would be very suprised if the gadgets you actually like extend past the convenience of these 2 and maybe sat nav.

    So the actual new gadgets you get might be cruise control and all the driver assists, i honestly hate the "smart" cruise control in our new car because if you are catching someone it likes to slow down quite quickly to make sure it keeps a massive (way more than 3 second) gap which makes it awkward to use on multi lane roads, i never use it. Half the time the driver assists alert incorrectly, like if there are multiple turning lanes and i am indicating the lane change alert goes nuts telling me there is a car next to me because it things i want to change lanes.

    The new cars also tend to come with a DMS (driver management system) and they can be quite annoying (can only go off the experience of the MV Triton here) taking over the digital display in the dash to warn you that you are not paying attention etc etc. And then you have auto stop and go but that probably wont be an in issue in a hybrid.

    TLDR - More gadgets does not mean better.

    • +2

      I can only think of 2 "gadgets" that a car absolutely needs in 2025

      1. Working air-conditioning (especially in Australia)

      2. A working audio system with AUX input or bluetooth

      Everything else is cool or nice to have.

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