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BYD Sealion 7 Novated Lease 7.8% p.a. (0.5% off Standard Interest Rate, Save up to $790 over 5 Years) @ millarX

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MillarX is offering 0.5% off the interest rate on a BYD Sealion 7 when purchased through our transparent novated leasing finance over a 5 year lease.

  • Standard rate: 8.3%
  • Discounted rate: 7.8%
  • Saving: Up to $790 over 5 years

Stacked on BYD's current $54,990 driveaway (Premium model), which enjoys substantial savings on a novated lease as it’s FBT exempt

Cash vs Novated Lease (5 Years)
Outright (Cash) 5 Year Total Novated Lease 5 Year Total
Driveaway price $54,990 Net pay reduction $806.09/month
Running costs $305/month Total (after tax) $48,360
Running costs total $18,300 Balloon payment $15,713
Total cost (5 yrs) $73,290 Total cost (5 yrs) $64,073
Total savings $9,217
Interest saved (5.5%) $15,122
Net benefit $24,339

Total saving via Novated Lease : $9,217, and you get to keep the cash in the bank for 5 years and save $15k off mortgage interest!


It's a Great deal, but might not be for everyone

Pre-empting some comments - novated leasing isn’t always the best solution for everyone. It is not a magic way to get a free car. Some people may prefer to purchase a second hand car a few years older to save money instead which is perfectly valid. However – if you have decided on purchasing a new (or near new) car, it is a very cost-effective way to finance it and has clear benefits over paying cash or using a car loan.


MillarX vs "Other" Novated Lease Providers

Novated leasing can get a bad reputation due to high interest rates and dodgy “junk” insurances tacked on by other novated leasing providers. Many other providers hide behind the “tax” savings and charge you 12-15% interest and tack on unnecessary insurances and services.

We started MillarX to provide clear transparent pricing to our customers. We clearly disclose our interest rates and all fees and charges on our quotes. We let you pick your own insurance to maximise the savings, and we don’t charge brokerage to source cars for you (you can find your own car and we will do the rest!)

Below is an example for the same car above between a MillarX novated lease, and another large novated lease provider. We have remove the items that will always be the same between providers (running costs, balloon payment).

Other Providers 5 Year Total MillarX 5 Year Total
Vehicle finance (12%) $56,774 Vehicle finance (7.8%) $50,760
Junk insurance $5,700 Junk insurance $0
Total cost $62,474 Total cost $50,760
Total saving $11,714

*Both include comprehensive insurance.
*“Junk insurance” = unnecessary additional insurances that provide little value in most cases

Do your research

You can use the calculator on our website to check any other vehicles or personalise it to your specific circumstances (salary, location, etc). There are multiple independent novated leasing calculators available as well – posted in the forums on this website, and also in the Australian subreddit https://www.reddit.com/r/NovatedLeasingAU/

Final Points

Often leasing providers provide their quotes in different formats so it is difficult to get an apples for apples comparison on interest rates, fees and charges. We have a quote comparison tool on our website so you can identify the headline interest rates and do an apples for apples comparison.

If you're buying a new EV on a Novated Lease, the real question is: Are you getting a clean deal or getting loaded with hidden costs?

Edit: The calculator on the website will show 7.8 for 5 years, if you wish to have a 3 or 4-year lease please email Ben@Millarx.com.au to receive our special rate.

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Search through all the comments in this post.
  • Nice write up.

  • Is it interest rate or effective rate? If not What would be effective rate ?

    • This is the effective rate - we firmly believe in being transparent on the underlying rates and costs. An excellent question as often other providers will hide brokerage, documentation and finance fees.

      You can use the analysis tool on our website to determine what the effective rate is on any other novated lease quote - https://millarx.com.au/lease-analysis

  • Does millarx need to be signed up to my employer for this to work?

    • I think so, but happy to be proven wrong.

    • Yes - we do need your employer to be on board to commence the lease. There are certain exceptions if you are a large employer that allows self-managed novated leases (notably Defence Dept, but other large government employers and large businesses). If you are a small to medium business it's very easy to onboard your employer.

      We are always happy to chat with your employer and discuss options - we find they are open to helping their employees get the most benefit from a novated lease.

  • I thought it was 0.5% interest rate. Lol

  • Following that link it's giving me a rate of 9.8% where is this 7.8%?

    • 7.8 is a lot

      • Not for a novated lease - many providers are closer to 10% and some are even higher.

        • My Novated Lease rate is 6.4% signed up 5 weeks ago

          • @cptdandan: What car though

            • @CantonasKungFuKick: Hyundai Ioniq9 but I was looking at a few options & all at the same interest rate from the Novated Lease Company

          • @cptdandan: Who was that with? My friends Qld health only allows certain companies and reserve wanted 11.5%, basically wiping out almost all the benefit of novating a lease vs market rate loan! When I asked who their finance people were and the rate they went mental.

        • My rate for an EX5 novated lease was 7.25% last year - at the time there were even better rates from providers my employer unfortunately wasn't using.

    • Can you email Ben@Millarx.com.au to receive the rate and get a formal quote.

  • Good deal as far as I can tell. Great car, too. No issues during the 9 months we've had ours.

    Tip: I found RAC offered the cheapest insurance on this car, and their insurance has been good in my experience. My own lease provider was trying to include insurance that would have been $1k per year more.

    • Likewise, can vouch for car and RAC

    • You can definitely BYO insurance on this option to maximise your savings, and still realise the tax benefits. It's worth checking any novated lease quote against a normal retail insurer (RAC, Allianz, Suncorp, etc) to compare apples for apples! No point paying $1k more for insurance if there's only a $100 tax benefit.

      • @MillarX Dave is it the case that the novated lease insurance covers the amount you have left to pay on the lease ?

        If the car is destroyed when you still owe $30K, but the car itself is now only worth $20K then you're going to be ten grand short if you BYO insurance. Would the novated lease insurer pay out the full $30K in this scenario ?

        • You can get new for old replacement for new cars with some insurers, such as AAMI if car is less than 2 years old on accident date, I think actually most insurers offer it. Beyond that you either need to set an agreed value sufficient to pay off lease for your own insurance, or a specialist NL insurance, yes. If calculating agreed value watch out for early repayment fees also.

        • As per tim_geos comment - you can get new for old replacement for an insurer.

          The specific case you are referring to is called "Gap insurance". This will come down to your selection of car - how much will it be worth after 2,3,4 years? If you pick a rapidly depreciating car, and you think your car will be worth less than the amount financed - then gap insurance can be of use.

          However we have found generally that using a new-for-old insurance cover will provide the best benefit for most people, and the value of the car should outweigh any amount financed (unless you pick a rapidly depreciating car). The aim is always to choose a car that will be worth more than the balloon payment at the end of the lease.

          A good way to check is to have a look at your chosen model on the 2nd hand market and compare it to the ATO depreciation schedule. e.g. is a 2 year old car worth more than 56.25% of it's original purchase price?

  • Looking at a lease myself. Its easy to bargain. Started at 7.8 Now 7.29 from another company

    • May I know which company offered 7.29?

    • Which one?

    • Not disagreeing with you - but 7.29 would be incredibly cheap based on current market rates (possibly below cost). Our rate is a "comparison rate"/"effective rate" inclusive of all finance costs. I would triple check that the 7.29 includes all fees and charges (including all brokerage, finance application or other fees and charges) - otherwise it might be higher than you think.

      And if it is a 7.29 effective rate then congrats - that's a great bargain!

  • My employer uses Southgate. Am I able to use you guys even though my employer doesn’t?

    • If your employer is open to adding another provider, we can guide them through the process.

  • Anyone considering a novated lease should 100% use this tool. Extremely helpful.
    https://novatedlease.guide/calculator/

    • Thanks for the endorsement.

      While you are there, make sure to check out the various articles discussing pros, cons and potential traps too. In some ways I think it's even more important than calculating the figures.

      • Exactly. Found it so useful when looking at a NV myself. Thanks for your hard work on it.

  • Novated leaving of EVs is what’s keeping their market alive.

    • So the process is working perfectly then ?

      The whole point of the FBT discount on an EV lease was to stimulate the EV market.

      Mission accomplished.

        • Cool story bro

        • no one else is buying them.

          That's because novated leasing them is cheaper.

          i work at an company with 100's of people and the only EV owners have them on a novated lease.

          Obviously.

          Novated leasing an EV is the generally the cheapest way to buy one, you do see some savings vs an outright purchase.

          If you need an ICE car, the novated lease doesn't really offer you any saving.

          everyone else drives a proper car

          ?

          Weird thread, is there something here you don't understand ?

          • @Nom:

            If you need an ICE car, the novated lease doesn't really offer you any saving.

            why is that?

            • @dukeGR4: Because the additional fringe benefit tax on the ICE car, wipes out most of the novated lease saving.

              You can still save a bit, depending on your tax bracket, but it's pretty negligible.

        • As an ev owner, I hope it stays that way. Less congestion on chargers.

          sips matcha while watching petrol go above $2.50/L

  • this guy said wait as new battery tech with super fast charging coming up very soon
    https://youtu.be/agrbBJc2pfw?si=1SF5Qzigpz4oxeG8

    • It's always 10 years away.

    • That’s what they said 10 years ago. Maybe in 10 years from now petrol engines will be better too?

      • first and foremost, interesting username…

        secondly, i think petrol engines probably peaked 10 or 20 years ago, modern engines are too complicated and overstressed. with the EV mandate scrapped manufactures will go ahead if MHEV and PHEV which will further complicate things.

    • You'd be lucky to get 75kw on a 150/300kw charger when all the bays are being used. In fact, you'd be lucky to see a fast charger that isn't broken.

      Battery tech isn't what's holding up fast charging, infrastructure in Aus is.

      You want reliable fast charging - get a Tesla and use the superchargers.

    • BYD is rolling out their Blade 2 batteries with lightning charging. There is high performance version and a basic version. Charging time is decreased, range is improved and battery efficiency is improved.

    • fast charging and better battery tech already exists in china, but Australia will be the last country to get the technology

      • True. Eventually the technology will trickle down and the second owner will benefit once the lease is over. Seriously though, quick charging won’t exactly be available at home at the speeds they promote.

        • Yeah, China have the battery swapout thing too v cool

  • Good to see you Ben.

  • pretty good and smart during the petrol crisis we find ourselves in

    • spending 40k on a new car is smart is it?

      • spending 40k on a new car is smart is it?

        a lot of people are 'short term' thinkers they will panic and say ill get an EV when they go to BYD the salesman will use 'well the price of Petrol is $xxx and you will save or break even with those savings with this finance deal'

        Also 40k on a new car is fairly cheap a 5-10 year warranty alone is worth at least 20% of the cars RRP

          • @Wiadro: Chinese cars are shit box but in all honesty so are most Yank, French, Swedish and Korean cars so

            • @[Deactivated]: So German only? The ones with grenades for gearboxes?

              • @krisspy: Germans are good if you want high performance otherwise Japanese imho are the best bang for buck

                Italian cars if you are into pretty things that are ultra expensive to maintain (not Fiat they too are shit boxes)

                But Chinese cars are straight up shit boxes i throw Korean cars in with them they are shit boxes too - for a while the Koreans improved to compete with the Japanese and Germans then they dropped the stardards to be more price competitive and are shit boxes

                • @[Deactivated]: Bang for buck where? Toyota has a massive tax on it just because Toyota. Even clapped out camries are holding their value.

                  I wouldn't even classify Nissan as Japanese anymore. Cheap cars but you're not getting Japanese quality here. Renault and cvt is just an instant no.

                  Mazda has always been a rip off, but Japanese quality.

                  Best bang for buck for a non Chinese/Indian company would be hyundai/Kia. They killed it when they poached Schryer and Bierman. I30n, stinger both banger cars for relatively cheap. They've started creeping up to premium territory now though.

                  • @krisspy: Mazada/Toyota/Honda/VW/Luxus/BMW

                    these car if maintained will legit get you over 350,000km

                    I reckon Skodas are not bad as well

                    In Australia

                    'Some Fords' are also not bad their Transite Van is pretty under-rated but there range is over-rated it looks like but it has way to many issues for how expensive it is even if maintained

                    Even Suburu/Isuzu/suzuki are very good cars but i do feel like Suburu have has a fair few issues in the last decade

                    I wouldnt touch modern Kias/Hyundais i reckon BYD might actually be better then those shit boxes

                    Other shit house brand Volvo/Jeep/Fiat - or just anything part of the Stellantis group

                    Pretty much everyone i have ever met that has brought an MG has regreted it or had to take it back for some issue

                    I dont know anyone who has brought a Geely/Leepmotor

                    I had Havals in my old jobs they drive like shit but for the cost they are value for money and do the job i wouldnt buy one though

                    • @[Deactivated]: VW and BMW?
                      Plastic fantastic engines in BMW built only to last out the warranty / lease period, used to be good, now not so much

              • @krisspy: ZF gearboxes last forever if maintained properly

                • @Wiadro: Was implying the dcts wet or dry. I have no issues with slushboxes.

            • @[Deactivated]: I am very happy with mine. I would have agreed with you 5 years ago but things have changed.

        • a lot of people are 'short term' thinkers they will panic and say ill get an EV

          this is what I mean. many people are quick to think a EV is superior replacement to regular cars.

          they will see it as "new technology" and "fancy" and "green" without thinking or doing much research.

          if considering EV you need to know:
          + best if you have a garage to park it in, and a power outlet inside it. to charge while you sleep and at cheap electricity costs.
          + be prepared to plug and unplug the car every day, and charging takes much longer than putting fuel in once a week.
          + if 30 degrees outside be prepared to lose an extra 10% battery on top of your daily drive because the car protects it's battery by cooling it. so if you daily drive consumes 5% that's 15% lost on a hot day.
          + be prepared to "plan ahead" and charge before what you plan to do, go for a long drive weekend. with a slow charger you can't charge to 100% the morning of day.
          + depreciation due to faster tech improvement on next years model compared to normal car.
          + after 10+ years range might not be what it was when you bought it. meaning 100% charge won't really be 100% charge anymore.

          • @skibidigrimacmoggr67:

            • if 30 degrees outside be prepared to lose an extra 10% battery on top of your daily drive because the car protects it's battery by cooling it. so if you daily drive consumes 5% that's 15% lost on a hot day.

            While most of your other points are valid, this in particular is way overblown.

            There are a few potential sources of energy drain during a hot day:
            - "cabin overheat protection" in Tesla (not sure if other brands have it): Tesla would run some air conditioning / fan to keep the cabin temperature below 40 / 35 / 30. If your car is parked under the sun, then yes, it could drain up to 5 to 10% of battery. However this is TOTALLY optional and you can turn it off fully. It's only meant "for passenger comfort" and most people find that they are better off just pre-cooling the car when they are about to get to the car instead of letting the car do this overheat prevention thing.
            - active battery cooling: most EV use active cooling when it gets very hot (typically above 40 degrees or so). It does take energy to circulate the coolant etc; however I have never seen battery drop by 1-2% ever even under the sun for the whole day.

            • @changyang1230:

              • "cabin overheat protection" in Tesla (not sure if other brands have it): Tesla would run some air conditioning / fan to keep the cabin temperature below 40 / 35 / 30. If your car is parked under the sun, then yes, it could drain up to 5 to 10% of battery. However this is TOTALLY optional and you can turn it off fully.

              fyi I thought the exact same thing as you. but I looked it up and it's not the same thing. "cabin overheat protection" and battery temperature management is not the same thing. yes you can turn off cabin overheat protection to save a bit of energy, but you cannot turn off the battery cooling/heating (well you technically can in advanced setting, but you don't want to because it's bad for the battery).

              my friend has a tesla. not the newest one but they confirmed what the user manual says. cabin overheat protection, does not cool the battery or protect the battery. it is for keeping the interior of the car cool, and protect the interior from wear caused by temperature (didn't know this was a thing but it is apparently).

              the battery heating/cooling system, is a completely separate system and not controllable or accessible in the basic car settings.

              • active battery cooling: most EV use active cooling when it gets very hot (typically above 40 degrees or so). however I have never seen battery drop by 1-2% ever even under the sun for the whole day.

              not in my friends experience. they have been near their car many times and as soon as hits 30 degrees, the car fans start spinning up really loud (it's not the AC fans ,they are big fans for cooling the battery and probably the liquid in the battery pipes). 30~32 degrees minimum, and they said they lose roughly 10% per day parked under the sun. if it's higher like 35~40 they lose even more, up to 13% per day on top of their normal drive.
              changing the cabin overheat protection set temperature (something like 30 degrees, 35 degrees, 40 degrees) didn't affect this in any way.

              I mean I don't think it's great but I can understand it for safety. a huge lithium battery on a 30+ degree street plus under direct sun is going to just keep getting hotter and hotter. you can feel the heat coming up off the road when it's 30+ and full sunlight, plus the sunlight directly so it's like cooking the car in a oven.

              sorry I should have included "parked under the sun all day" in my original comment.

              I assume all other EV's at least their better models such as BYD Sealion also have the same battery temperature protection system.
              but if the EV you are talking about only loses 1% per day parked under the sun, maybe the car doesn't have battery temp management? or at least uses a much weaker version of it? because my friend says on cool days under 27~28 degrees, the car often can lose a 1%~2% just parked doing nothing.

              • @skibidigrimacmoggr67: I own a Tesla and my experience is totally different from your description.

                Without enabling the optional cabin overheat protection, the “spinning up” you’re describing doesn’t really occur, and people really aren't seeing ~10% per day battery loss from cooling alone even on a 40 degree day.

                For example, it’s quite common for people to park a Tesla in an open airport carpark in summer for extended periods. With low power settings and features like sentry mode off, the battery loss is typically quite minimal — often around ~1% over several days rather than per day.

                I wonder if some of the higher figures might be related to other factors (like cabin overheat protection, sentry mode, or the car being woken frequently), which can increase energy use. Most of these can be separately turned off (i.e. the low energy mode I described above).

                Second-hand experiences can sometimes mix facts - and I speak as an actual owner.

                • @changyang1230:

                  the “spinning up” you’re describing doesn’t really occur,

                  are you sure you didn't go to advanced setting menu and disable battery management? my friend said they never go into that menu because they think it should be left alone. but I watched a few youtube videos of a guy in norway I think who showed you can disable battery heating (not sure if cooling as well, but assume so) in advanced settings (service?). they needed to do this step to use the reverse battery charger (V2L) adapter thing on a older tesla.

                  if you disabled battery heat/cool management. it makes total sense no fans ever spin even when 30+ outside and the car loses only 1% per day.

                  otherwise the other explanation doesn't make sense to me, which is the car uses more energy to cool the air inside the interior, than it does to cool the battery? the battery is solid and when it gets hot it must use a lot more power to cool it down (and must use fans in the process).

          • @skibidigrimacmoggr67:

            • best if you have a garage to park it in, and a power outlet inside it. to charge while you sleep and at cheap electricity costs.

            Absolutely true - charging at home is definitely the way to achieve the lowest running costs. Parking inside is totally optional and won't make much difference other than convenience.

            • be prepared to plug and unplug the car every day

            Disagree - this is unlikely to be necessary for most drivers. The average Australian car travels less than 250km a week, which is comfortably less than the range of most EVs. You're more likely to charge once or twice a week.

            • if 30 degrees outside be prepared to lose an extra 10% battery on top of your daily drive because the car protects it's battery by cooling it. so if you daily drive consumes 5% that's 15% lost on a hot day.

            This is not accurate. Battery cooling while the car is moving uses a minimal amount of electricity, and does not affect the range in any appreciable way compared to driving on a cold day. Electricity usage for battery cooling while driving is factored into WLTP range calculations.

            Battery cooling while parked does happen sometimes, but it's pretty rare and definitely isn't commonly required just by sitting in the sun on a 30 degree day. And energy usage for this task is minimal anyway - running a couple of 30W fans isn't going to drain a >50kWh battery much.

            • be prepared to "plan ahead" and charge before what you plan to do, go for a long drive weekend. with a slow charger you can't charge to 100% the morning of day.

            This is true. If you're charging at home at slow speeds, you will need to remember to plug the car in the night before a long trip. This is pretty similar to the old ICE version of remembering to fill up the car on your way home the day before.

            Alternatively, you can leave a little early and hit a fast-charger for 25 minutes - not a show-stopper but definitely inconvenient.

            • depreciation due to faster tech improvement on next years model compared to normal car.

            Currently correct, but unlikely to remain true in the longer term.

            Prices for new EVs are still dropping as economies of scale increase and competition remains strong, which will inherently reduce the value of older models. But I suspect the major difference is actually the level of demand for used EVs, which has traditionally been quite low. Used car values are largely based on perceptions and reputation. Concerns about battery longevity etc increase with a used car with less warranty, and skepticism about EVs more broadly have fed into this rapid depreciation.

            However, EVs are now common enough that most people can see they're not unreliable or low quality and that they can be viable form of transport, so those depreciation pressures are slowly easing. The recent volatility in fuel prices is also making a lot of people reconsider their early reluctance.

            • after 10+ years range might not be what it was when you bought it. meaning 100% charge won't really be 100% charge anymore.

            Correct - battery degradation is an unavoidable issue of chemistry and physics. Large-scale studies suggest typical degradation for modern EV batteries is somewhere in the realm of 1-2% per year. So after 10 years, the range might be reduced to 80-90% of the factory spec. You can use your own judgement to decide whether that's a problem for you or not.

            not in my friends experience. they have been near their car many times and as soon as hits 30 degrees, the car fans start spinning up really loud (it's not the AC fans ,they are big fans for cooling the battery and probably the liquid in the battery pipes). 30~32 degrees minimum, and they said they lose roughly 10% per day parked under the sun.

            Speaking as another Tesla owner - this is not something I've experienced, despite the car being parked in the sun for hours at a time, a few times a week for a couple of years. Your friend definitely needs to check their settings, or perhaps contact their service agent.

            Similar to the experience related above, I have parked my car at the airport in the sun for over a week in the middle of summer and returned to the battery being 2% lower than when I left. Burning through 10% battery per day is absolutely not normal.

            • @klaw81: thanks klaw for detailed reply.

              I don't think they are 30W fans though. my friend actually told me it took awhile to get the actual number, but if you plug your car into charge when it's cooling itself, with 0% change in charge limit set it shows you how much the battery cooling is using. I think they said somewhere between 400watts and 700 watts depending on temperature.

              it doesn't make sense to me that the AC (interior) cooling system would use more than the battery cooling system? it must definitely take more energy to cool a hot battery than the hot air in the car right?

              must be something wrong then if two of you are experiencing 1%~2% drop over several days in 30+ degree heat and parked in the full sun.

              just understand because of what I have heard, parking your car under the sun with no shade for a week and only losing 2% seems impossible. even if you turned everything else off it must consume more energy than that. 😐 could a explanation be battery degradation + the car always being parked on the street from when it was new?

              • @skibidigrimacmoggr67:

                I don't think they are 30W fans though.

                You're right, I looked it up.

                The Model 3 and Model Y have the same setup - a single 300W fan, which cools both the radiator (motor/battery cooling) and the air conditioning condenser (they're stacked one on top of the other). There's also a dedicated coolant pump which draws 10-50W depending on speed.

                Even so, running that system flat out for an entire 8 hours duration shouldn't use any more than about 5% of the battery.

                it doesn't make sense to me that the AC (interior) cooling system would use more than the battery cooling system?

                It makes a lot of sense - the AC heat-pump system will use way more power - it's a far more energy-intensive system which can move substantially more energy.

                It's worth noting that in Tesla designs, the HVAC and drivetrain cooling are interlinked by the Omnivalve system, which can harvest hot or cold energy from one system to use in the other - this is done for maximum efficiency.

                must be something wrong then if two of you are experiencing 1%~2% drop over several days in 30+ degree heat and parked in the full sun

                I'd strongly suggest that your friend is using the Cabin Overheat Protection feature, which can engage the AC system if required to hold the interior temperature below a chosen threshold.

                If not, there's definitely something wrong with his car.

                even if you turned everything else off it must consume more energy than that.

                Why would it? The car is literally just sitting there, almost entirely inert - it will keep a basic computer running for keeping the time, sending periodic updates to the cloud for vehicle status, listening for an unlock signal etc but would be using less than the power of a smartphone in standby mode. If you leave Sentry mode running and the computer is constantly monitoring the cameras for movement, that will use more energy (I disabled it, since the car was parked near surveillance cameras at the airport anyway).

                • @klaw81:

                  the AC heat-pump system will use way more power

                  I read an article on this too, I heard heat pump is the most efficient type of AC and tesla enginners designed it themselves, so it's very very efficient (to cool and heat the interior).

                  which can engage the AC system if required to hold the interior temperature below a chosen threshold.

                  according to them it doesn't hold the temperature. it just cools the inside from like 30 to 17 in a few minutes, then switches off.

                  even if you turned everything else off it must consume more energy than that.
                  Why would it?

                  because batteries just lose their charge slowly? that's normal isn't it? I have plenty of battery devices which lose their charge over time even without using them at all, if I don't charge them again they become 0% for too long they die (happened to my BT headphones).

                  I admit it takes quite awhile for the charge to run out on these things, like months. but these small devices are really simple probably only just keep the power on button powered.
                  but a car has many many complicated things which probably use a small amount of power. I know there is a super low power mode I read the article on that, but you aren't tapping that button everytime you park under the sun are you?

                  • @skibidigrimacmoggr67:

                    because batteries just lose their charge slowly? that's normal isn't it? I have plenty of battery devices which lose their charge over time even without using them at all, if I don't charge them again they become 0% for too long they die (happened to my BT headphones).

                    Yes, self-discharge is a real thing. But modern high quality batteries found in EVs have very low self-discharge, in the order of less than 1% per week - especially if they're not fully charged.

                    I've seen recommendations of leaving battery levels around 60% charge for best longevity if they're not going to be used for a long period.

                    The only thing I did when leaving the car at the airport was to switch off Sentry mode. I don't see any need to intervene further; it's simply not an issue.

      • I mean if we're gonna follow the "depreciating asset logic" then buying anything new isn't smart. All your appliances should come from marketplace instead. Forego the warranties and the feeling of buying new stuff.

        • I mean if we're gonna follow the "depreciating asset logic" then buying anything new isn't smart.

          because you know nothing about cars

          Cars are depreciating assests but the Used car market in Australia generally doesnt have a lot of 'value' cars lose roughly 30-40% of the RRP after 4-5 years the better quality cars it is close to the 30 the less quality closer 40

          if you buy a 5 year old car and save 10-25k your generally losing warrenty and buying risks that can cost a hell of alot more then you can save, not to mention features in new models - im not saying you buy a car brand new but there are demo or 1-2 year old models dealer cant sell with a few Kms on the clock is where savvy people shop

          People who think buying a 2nd hand car is a better option are not 'wrong' but they ignore the risks and unless you actually know something about cars it is a bigger gamble then most realise - it isnt hard to signed off a road worthy for a totally cooked car

          at the same time if you know how to fix cars you can make shit loads of money buying used fix'em and selling them

          • @[Deactivated]: This post makes no sense, there are plenty of cars out there that were sold new with 6 / 7 / 10 year warranties. At five years old they still have the balance of their manufacturer's warranty.

            And even for those cars that only came with 3 or 5 year factory warranties, you can simply buy from a dealer that includes a basic warranty.

            Buying used absolutely doesn't mean you need to forgo warranty 🤷

            And what's more, if you don't know anything about cars, then you can pay for the knowledge of someone who does - it's pretty easy to organise a professional inspection of a car you want to buy.

            • @Nom:

              This post makes no sense, there are plenty of cars out there that were sold new with 6 / 7 / 10 year warranties. At five years old they still have the balance of their manufacturer's warranty.

              pretty sure that's reserved for major items like drive train and stuff.

              the bulk of ownership expense for a used car would be wear-and-tear and age-related items like pumps, belts, suspension and stuff. those will not be covered.

            • @Nom: As i said you do t know what your talking about like most people on Ozbargain

              Youre also totally missing the point - used is of course cheaper then New/newish but it is cheaper for a reason

              You're saving money at the expense of more wesr and tear and risks of costly repairs

              If you cant understand that used that i dont know what else i can tell

              As for used dealer Warrenty they arent usually worth the paper they are printed on

    • the smartest way is actually Falcon LPG… shame i had a budget to work with and couldn't find one in a good condition so went with a used Japanese econobox :/

  • I recently did a novated lease through MillarX, I rate them highly. Like novated leasing, EVs are not for everyone but the novated lease and using solar to charge are saving me plenty.

    • Surely buying a cheap used EV will save you more long term? Unless you are claiming through business?

      • Or get the best of both world: NL a used EV.

        (It still qualifies if it’s newer than 1/7/2022 and had never used LCT.)

        • Even after 7.8% interest?

          • @onlinepred: The interest is more than offset by the tax savings. In short, it doesn't matter - you can still save money vs an outright purchase, even if the interest rate is 10%.

            If you are a "normal" salaried employee, most employers limit you to one or two providers anyway, so their rates are their rates - you usually can't shop around.

          • @onlinepred: Yes.

            In higher tax bracket, even with exorbitant effective interest rate like 15%, they might still be better than cash by some $20k or so. That's part of the reason the NL companies get away with charging so much - the overall saving is so high that both the lessee and the middleman can share part of the saving.

            The novated lease calculator to demonstrate the figures
            Why high interest rate could still end up with net saving

            • @changyang1230: This was modelled on an income of $90,000 - to demonstrate that you can still have significant savings even if you're not in the highest 45% tax bracket.

            • @changyang1230: I did a model Y over 5 years at 11%, and its estimate was close to $100,000. An extra $36,000 on top including insurance, servicing, registration and admin fees. If I was to pay them myself, it would cost $18,000. So I would save $18,000 doing it myself. I would save $6k upfront on gst, and tax over 5 years, but that still makes it barely cheaper than buying upfront, and even considering offset benefits of keeping money in my offset for 5 years before pulling out nearly $20k to buy the car.

              • @onlinepred:

                An extra $36,000 on top including insurance, servicing, registration and admin fees. If I was to pay them myself, it would cost $18,000.

                Not sure I understood you there. Why would your doing it yourself cost only $18,000?

                Is that because of the insurance cost being higher when organised through novated lease?

                If that's the case - you probably misunderstood part of the deal: even though NL company likes to sell you bundled deal including insurance, you CAN absolutely organise your own insurance and claim it back. You are never forced to take the bundled insurance.

                —

                Also, the $36,000 of novated leasing, it's likely the pre-tax figure rather than the post-tax impact. It sounds like you haven't done the post-tax equivalent calculation yet?

      • Maybe, depends on alot of things. . I intend to hang onto mine for at least the 7 years warranty period and I got a great price on a demo EV with 39 (no missing zeros there) klms on it.

    • How'd you go about getting your employer to sign up?

      • After I decided on MillarX I made my case vs the other novated lease company we already had an agreement with. I gave my boss their contact details. He spoke with Ben, Millarx gave him some paper work to fill out. The boss is going with MillarX for his next lease too.

        I have a good relationship with the CEO, not sure of the process at other employers.

  • Any Sealion owners here who can give actual range/power consumption numbers? I really don't believe their WLTP claims.

    • Mine is around 450km, 16kwh /100km It depends on your driving conditions. Freeway vs city vs hilly etc.

      • Premium or performance?

        • Premium. The kms in the dashboard shows around 570 when full, but when I need to plan a long drive, I always deduct 20-25% to match actual range. No range anxiety so far

    • We seem to get >500km from a full charge. But we normally recharge it before it gets too empty, and don't always charge to 100%. If you can charge at home, range is less of an issue. We prefer charging during the day because it's cheaper, but if ever we had to, we could charge it from 0-100% overnight at 7kW.

  • Where do the $305/month running costs come from?

    • That is calculated based on registration, insurance, maintenance, tyres and charging/fuel.

      The running costs are completely refundable if they are not spent - it is based entirely on what you spend on running the car. If you can charge via solar, or do lower kms so you don't need tyres sooner then the money will go back to you. Likewise if you find yourself spending more we can increase the budget.

      • I thought charging is usually by the 4.2c / km statutory formula? If you charged by solar the funds are still rebated to you right, calculated from odometer if that is the chosen method.

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