[Pre Order] BYD Atto 2 DM-i PHEV - from $24,990.00 + On Road Costs @ BYD

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The BYD Atto 2 DM-i is now the cheapest PHEV in Australia.

"The base Essential uses a small 7.85kWh BYD 'Blade' lithium iron phosphate (LFP) battery, with a claimed EV-only WLTP range of just 39km on the WLTP test cycle.

The top-spec Premium, in contrast, gets an 18.03kWh Blade battery, providing a claimed electric-only WLTP range of 90km. Both trims use the same 72kW/122Nm 1.5-litre naturally aspirated four-cylinder petrol engine and 145kW/300Nm electric motor."

2027 BYD Atto 2 DM-i Essential $24,990 (plus on roads)

2027 BYD Atto 2 DM-i Premium $29,990 (plus on roads)

2027 BYD Atto 2 EV Dynamic $31,990 (plus on roads)

2027 BYD Atto 2 EV Premium $35,990 (plus on roads)

Source - CarExpert - https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-news/2027-byd-atto-2-dm-i-b…

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Comments

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  • Hybrid and electric

    That’s just more that can go wrong

    Pick one or the other

    • Or you have 2 separate power systems that can run independently if the other one were to go wrong. And both are being used half as much so could each last twice as long. Plus you dont have to wait at a charging station for 5 hours during Easter

      • Maybe somewhat true. The start/stop nature and often not reaching operating temperatures can wear an ICE quicker.

        • Well, Toyota hybrid legacy since 1999 (with many original Prius cars still on the road with sometimes over 1 million kms) tells a compelling story. Though I can't comment on BYD.

          • @npnp: You'd hope they have smart management that once started, keeps the ICE running until up to temperature, etc. Perhaps even run it once in a while just to circulate fluids.

            • @Murpha: They do, my Shark sometimes shows a message that the engine has started because it hasn't been used in a while when I'm in EV mode.

          • @npnp: BYD 1,124,518 km with minimal battery degradation. What can go wrong with ~30 vs 3000 moving parts (e6 commercial taxi >10y ;)

      • Thanks, having never researched it I always thought what Dollar General was saying

      • There's definitely some truth in that, but when it comes to servicing, there is twice as much to service. And no matter how much or little the petrol engine is used, you can be assured that the dealership will recommend the "fuel injector cleaning" treatment 🤣

      • Highly doubt the ECU/hybrid controller would just look the other way if an entire power unit fails. If one side goes down, it’s going to light up the dash like a Christmas tree and force you straight into limp mode. You're essentially doubling the number of complex components that can trigger a software lockout.

      • Unless otherwise stated by BYD, I don't think they would have made this with redundancy in mind.

      • If one system dies the car will probably just die completely.

      • I don't think the engine can run independently though? Like if there's a fault with the motor/bnattery?

        I'm more of a best of both worlds kind of guy. They both weight exactly the same. They just took out some battery to replace it with the ICE option. So you choose a hard limit of range on the EV, or unlimited range but lower EV-only range on the PHEV. If you only do short trips most of the time, just keep the battery topped up at home overnight. Either way you are still carrying around 200kg of dead weight (unused battery on EV, engine on PHEV).

        But come the weekend, the PHEV owns. Especially so on holiday weekends. And there's no range anxiety or extra trip planning needed.

      • I have a tesla and have never had to wait for a charge… Is that really a thing?

        • range?

      • Exactly. Toyota has been using that tech for decades at this stage, they just forgot to make the batteries larger. The petrol engine is just not being abused as much and therefore lasts longer. The heavy lifting, Start-Stop city driving is handled by the electric motor. If you need just 1 car and most of your trips fit in the 90km budget and every other weekend you fit in a long trip, it will be the perfect car. I would go for the premium, just for the ventilated seats….so good.

        • sorta, Toyota hybrids are not like BYD hybrids. BYD hybrids are rolling generators like diesel powered trains. Toyotas have a direct mechanical connection to the wheels.

      • home charging is much quicker than going to diminishing petrol stations (Norway is actively phasing out fuel tanks to make space for 400kW ultra-fast EV chargers for 98%+ pure EVs)

    • I think all the BYD Shark owners are very happy with their PHEVs and not paying $3.00/L for diesel.

      • I’m sure they are and not having a go at them.

        One good benefit of EV’s is less parts so less problems and lower running costs. PHEV seems like a vehicle for people scared to commit

        • People just have different use cases. I have a BEV hatch and a diesel ute. The diesel ute would not meet my use case as a BEV ute, but it'd be awesome as a PHEV. The BEV hatch is perfect as a second car, but if it were my only car, I'd prefer that as a PHEV too.

          • @BestTechAdvisor: For your use case I get it, but in this size class, BEV makes more sense. Lower running cost, less to go wrong and fuel up at home.

            • @anthp: It still depends how much you drive, if you reliable access to a charger, etc.

        • We live in Australia, hybrid is the way to go

          • @tyc00n: With AU's sun, pure EV is the way to go. Soon there will be less petrol & too many chargers around (they will work 24x7) & most convenient at home with V2G for making profit ;)

      • Yeah its all gone to hell. It's just crossed over the $3 mark. Especially at those petrol stations that only stock premium diesel…

      • They have a slow-charging EV with a 100km battery and wish they had an EV with a fast-charging 500km battery so that they didn't have to pay for fuel.

        • I think most BYD Shark owners are happy with the compromises they've made otherwise they could've gotten a Musso EV.

          • @BestTechAdvisor: Having gone all the way from decades of petrol and diesel vehicles to a full EV for 2 years, sticking with fossil fuel in any way just looks like stupidity. It's like smoking to me. Full EV is just better in every situation unless you're in remote areas where you're not going to see electricity.

            • @Morven: We own a BEV hatch and a diesel ute and I've found plenty of BEV limitations. BEVs are better for most people in most situations, but they're definitely not better in every situation.

      • I am sure they are also happy that their cars can be hacked at any moment…

        • Same as a Toyota.

        • Fortunately, that can be disconnected (but it shouldn't have to be)

        • They can't be hacked at any moment.

      • practically every car from Tesla to BYD, Ford to toyota, ICE and EV are not secured against physical access in any meaningful way.

      • It was just a hit piece on chinese cars. Just look at what happened to GM's onstar back in the day its not a new thing for connected cars to be hacked.

      • I wonder if it has the same security vulnerability as the Shark 6

        Maybe you should check how easily is to steal Toyotas and Jap cars vs how many EVs gets stolen especially Chinese EVs.
        They are bloody putting steering wheel locks on Toyotas due to rampant thief. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXV976pTMRM

      • He rooted the tablet and injected an APK. Took him two weeks. What a joke article.

      • I wonder if any of those hacks discovered can be used to cut off all connections and leave it as a “dumb car”?

        • BYD uses physical Sim cards.

          If you don't want it online just remove the sim from under the seat / behind the globe box.

      • Who would have a thought asking a serious question in this community, instead of getting useful answers, the Chinese car brands fanboys/girls piling in the anonymous negs LOL. I wonder if any of the neggers ever contribute any useful post other than negging anyone who dare to post a deal or a question against their belief?

    • Especially in a car so small, Atto 1 or 3, go for it. Edit: or Atto 2 EV.

    • Yeah, the worst of both worlds with a lot more complexity thrown in as well. Better off going pure EV or sticking to ICE.

      • I see quite a few car experts saying this. I dont know shit, but make sense not to mix around

        • If you have a 50km commute in to the office everyday + driving around town etc could easily save over $3000 per year on petrol with the 30k model.

          Battery will get smashed, but it has a 8 year/160000KM battery warranty. That is $24k saving over 8 years and battery should have >70% life left.

          PHEV are the worst of both worlds, but if the petrol savings > extra maintenance, then it makes sense. Most people who live in the city, don't work from home and have home charging access would be better off with a PHEV over ICE. Obviously EV is just better.

      • I have a model 3 but I beg to differ. I'd much rather have one PHEV SUV and a model 3 as two cars for a family. EV mode of the PHEV is for around the suburb grocery runs, school drop offs etc, Tesla is for short day trips (up to 400 km return) and then hybrid mode of the PHEV is for longer trips (camping in the outback etc where you definitely can not find EV chargers). Even if there are EV chargers, I'd much rather drive straight to where I want to go rather than wasting my time in the middle charging an EV (being there done that). I love my model 3 but I do not hesitate to say it has it's purposes but definitely not a 'all in one' solution.

    • It would be better to choose a fully electric vehicle due to the potential savings on fuel and servicing costs.

    • Simplicity fallacy?
      So, we should all drive around in one cylinder cars with no clutch or gearbox?

      • Sounds a lot like an EV since it has a basic gearbox to slow motor rotation and for going backwards..

      • sth cvk would do

    • Wrong classification!

      ICE and EV. Pick one or the other.

      • Any choice as long as it's EV ;) ICE or horse - are the other alternatives

      • I have a model 3 but I beg to differ. I'd much rather have one PHEV SUV and a model 3 as two cars for a family. EV mode of the PHEV is for around the suburb grocery runs, school drop offs etc, Tesla is for short day trips (up to 400 km return) and then hybrid mode of the PHEV is for longer trips (camping in the outback etc where you definitely can not find EV chargers). Even if there are EV chargers, I'd much rather drive straight to where I want to go rather than wasting my time in the middle charging an EV (being there done that). I love my model 3 but I do not hesitate to say it has it's purposes but definitely not a 'all in one' solution.

    • EVs are less likely to catch fire than conventional ICE or PhEV vehicles. But putting out fire on an EV is far more difficult than ICE cars.

    • Hybrid and electric

      Actually is ICE and electric = hybrid.

      And yes, problems X2 … maybe X3 if carrying extra weight is an issue to consider.

      Plus pay for fuel and pay for electricity.

    • Phillipine Atto 2 DM-I Dynamic (similar specs as Essential in Australia with smaller battery and 45L fuel tank) achieved 1340 km without refueling or recharging (look up). If you can show me an EV (or Hybrid with 45L tank) which can do this, then I'll consider PHEV is unnecessary. 40 km of day to day driving purely on EV is a massive advantage too (at this unbeatable price point).

      • How many times in your life have you driven 1340km without stopping?

        • None, but there are so many times I have wished that I didn't have to stop at a fuel station. I'd rather stop near a nice park, waterfall or something like that. Currently drive a model 3 and a Toyota hybrid, both are excellent cars but having to stop to either charge or fuel top up isn't something I enjoy. There are so many things in life I'd rather do TBH.

    • Depends on use case really, if you do low KMs and mostly school drop offs or short commute to work you can drive in mostly EV and then have petrol for longer road trips etc. 60km would be nicer as a minimum though.

        • Usually WLTP can be matched around town. Given the vehicle type, a city runabout, it's probably about right.

          • @andyfc: Town driving is more economical for ev, but highway driving might be less than Wltp.

      • The costs of servicing a phev are somewhere around 70% more than an EV only.

        • Agreed service costs exceed EV, but in line with petrol car. I was happy with fixed price 10 year servicing prices I'm getting.

          Full EV you may consider larger charger at home so everything is a trade off for personal circumstances IMHO

          • @cook99:

            Agreed service costs exceed EV

            What is the service cost of an EV ?

            • @jv: Apparently 70% less than PHEV 🤷

              • @cook99: Which is how much ?

                I pay around $280 to service my car yearly.

                • @jv: Here is my 10 year fixed prices:
                  $356 $455 $449 $476 $449 $828 $499 $829 $530 $899

                  Note that is through dealer which unlocks 10 year warranty. Could probably be cheaper through smaller shops.

                  • @cook99: According to random Google:

                    BYD Atto 2 ~$335 / year 12 months / 20,000 km $165 minor, $480 major

              • @cook99: Thats not how maths works haha. Its approx 40% less.

                • @ATangk: Haha true! I have never looked into EV pricing in detail since I don't own one, but thanks for calling out my math fail!

              • @cook99:

                Apparently 70% less than PHEV 🤷

                A number is not 70% less than another number that is 70% more.

                • 170 is 70% more than 100.
                • 100 is 41% less than 170.
            • @jv: Very little is done with EV servicing. However, this is a business model, and they will charge whatever they can get away with.

        • Our Rav4 is fixed at $290 per year for 5 years. (Just had 12 months service which was free anyway) It is also worth the same now if not slightly more than we purchased it. We did look at BYD but service costs were a turn off and then there was the depreciation piece. Each to their own.

          • @ash460: Rav4 is slightly more than you purchased it over a year ago? LOL. Which drug are you on right now? Fixed price servicing is handy though (also unlimited km warranty which BYD doesn't provide).

            • @npnp: It’s what happens when you negotiate a deal. Second hand ones are selling more than we paid for ours new.

      • Yeah 39km would cover 95% of all my driving, if not more

        • Real-life mileage would be shorter than this.

          • @bjdchwr: No doubt, and most of my driving is less than 20km return

          • @bjdchwr: I never used mileage as the world uses metric, not Roman 1000 steps (archaic) ;) Sydney's kilometrage is ~ 38km/day

      • Charging any battery to 100% everyday isn’t a great idea!

        • Why?

        • depends on the battery chemistry, LFP are fine to go to 100% every day, just don't leave it at 100% for a month and you'll be fine.

          • @vger74656: Charging to 100% every day causes chemical stress within the battery. 80 to 90% doesn’t, but with the very limited EV range, the battery size doesn’t make sense for a plug in. Please feel free to catch up with the recent findings, as opposed to the drivel that keeps getting pumped out for those who haven’t updated their knowledge base.

            • @Buddy195: Can you link us to these latest findings? I have a shark with an LFP battery but as far as i knew charging to 100% is better than 80%

              • @Kegsta: Honestly the companies are probably smart enough to charge a bit less than 100% and display it as 100%

                It's not really stress though, it's just the chemical nature of reactions. Temperature and availability for reaction matter.

                As you approach 100% purity with any reactive chemical (or battery salt etc) the last few % are always the most difficult because they just want to change state.

                Very few things are even close to 99% pure or "charged" at any given point.

                • @Buddy195: Interesting, ran it through Gemini and while you are correct it seems the trade off of slightly higher degradation is worth it.

                  The article was also 5 years before the blade battery was even launched.

                  AI summary.

                  Why BYD Recommends Charging to 100%
                  ​Despite the fundamental calendar aging mechanisms at high SoC, BYD explicitly recommends charging LFP vehicles to 100% regularly. This is due to a trade-off:
                  ​The Voltage Flatness Problem: LFP chemistry has an extremely flat discharge voltage curve (3.2V nominal across almost 20% to 80% SoC). The Battery Management System (BMS) cannot accurately estimate the remaining range or calibrate cell balance based on voltage alone in this middle range.
                  ​Calibration at Top-End: Charging to 100% allows the BMS to hit the steep voltage knee at the top, reset its SoC counter, and perform active cell balancing.
                  ​Practical Balance: BYD accepts a minor increase in background calendar degradation in exchange for keeping the pack balanced and avoiding sudden drops in displayed range.
                  ​3. Modern Cell Enhancements (2016 vs. Today)
                  ​Modern BYD Blade batteries benefit from a decade of electrolyte and material refinements since the 2016 study:
                  ​Advanced SEI Additives: Modern electrolytes form thinner, more stable SEI layers that reduce the rate of ongoing lithium consumption at high SoC.
                  ​Structural Safety & Pack Thermal Management: Active liquid cooling in modern BYD vehicles mitigates high storage temperatures (the other major factor in the Arrhenius equation that drastically accelerates calendar loss)

    • PHEV with up to only 39km range is disappointing.

      depends how far you drive most days.

    • Wrong, the petrol engine will charge the battery just like a HEV, so you never need to plug it in if you dont want to.

      • the petrol engine will charge the battery just like a HEV

        Not if you don't have petrol in the car.

        • So exactly the same as a hybrid :/. Except this you can plug in if you want

          • @mikey13b:

            Except this you can plug in if you want

            Which means you can still use it if you can't get petrol.

            • @jv: Yes, that is my point… He said its better to get a hybrid than a phev

              • @mikey13b:

                He said its better to get a hybrid than a phev

                Why?

                • @jv: I dont know, please ask @shxhshzhz, he's the one saying it… Im saying PHEV is better than hybrid. Did you read the thread?

                  • @mikey13b: LFP batteries are absolutely fine to charge to 100%.

                    ask @shxhshzhz, he's the one saying it…

                    What is their qualification compared to an electrical engineer?

                    • @jv: Not sure why you keep asking me about what someone else said… :/

                      And I didnt even say anything about LFP batteries… why are you addressing me about it???

    • It's their sales ladder, provide a cheap option that is underspecced then when you bite they move you up to the next model, then the EV etc. They only ever sell 20/30% of the base model.

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