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Audio-Technica ATH-M50 Professional Studio Headphones -Coiled Cable for $126.95 Delivered

170

Was looking to buy these from long time and got this site with help of a member of Ozbargain, which is apparently cheaper than amazon.
Hope it would save $'s for someone.

White Limited edition are cheaper by 4$'s those are actually costly else where..

cheers

Product Description
Description:

The ATH-M50 headphones from Audio-Technica offer an incredibly accurate listening experience in a lightweight, comfortable design. The 45mm neodymium drivers provide a wide frequency response of 15Hz to 28kHz so you hear the lowest bass and highest trebles. The adjustable, padded headband and cushioned ear cups let you listen for hours without fatigue. The earpieces can swivel for easy single-ear monitoring, and the collapsible design is great for storage and travel.

The single-sided coiled cable minimizes tangles, and the 3.5mm mini plug is compatible with a wide variety of audio devices. A 1/4" adapter is supplied so you can connect to professional-level audio gear. A handy carrying pouch is also included.

Features:

o Lightweight, comfortable design
o Collapsible for easy storage in the included pouch
o Padded, adjustable headband
o Padded circumaural earcups for comfort and noise isolation
o Earcups can swivel for single-ear monitoring
o Large, 45mm neodymium drivers for a wide frequency response
o Single-sided coiled cable
o Gold-plated 3.5mm stereo mini plug with screw-on 1/4" adapter

Specifications:

o Type: Closed-back dynamic
o Driver Diameter: 45 mm
o Magnet: Neodymium
o Voice Coil: CCAW (Copper-clad aluminium wire)
o Frequency Response: 15 - 28,000 Hz
o Maximum Input Power: 1,600 mW at 1 kHz
o Sensitivity: 99 dB
o Impedance: 38 ohms
o Weight: 284 g (10 oz) without cable and connector
o Cable: 1.2 - 3.0 m (3.9' - 9.8') Coiled, OFC litz wire
o Connector: Gold-plated stereo 1/8" (3.5 mm) connector with strain relief and professional screw-on 1/4" (6.3 mm) adapter
o Accessory Included: Protective pouch

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closed Comments

  • Decent, usually at $140-170

    I'm looking to buy these too, but I'm gonna hold off for the minute

    According to camelx3, the lowest it's been this year was ~$100 in March

    • Do u think their would be a price drop??

      • Should be, but can't estimate times. I'm not sure about your circumstance, but I'm not in a rush to buy one, so I can wait

        • Well I am in no rush too, but its just my insane adrenaline pushing me to get these to try and just ordered one. Couldn't get the red one's

        • +1

          I feel ya. To be honest, I haven't really even given the last set of headphones I ordered a decent chance. So if I was to get these, it's really just greed / unnecessary spending. I will get these eventually, not just yet… unless some poster finds one for a hundy =P

        • +2

          Don,t want to sound negative, but I would not wait for price drop, as Aussy dollar has dived down since March, and not likely to bounce back quickly. I paid around $130 for these six months ago, and am happy with bang for buck. Nice quality solid build with clear highs, clean mids and punchy fast bass. Enjoy

  • +10

    After buying the straight cable version of these, I can't recommend enough to invest in the coiled. The cable is just SO DAMN LONG

    • I have the same problem with my sennheiser's at the moment, its annoying to put all the cable in your pocket.

    • +1

      Detachable cable mod, nottttt easy :|
      Even so, I think my HD228s and $30 DSE HD218is are slightly better in the mids and highs than M50s.
      Or I could have one of the dud versions of M50s since apparently there's like 6 versions of the M50.

      • Did not knew they were 6 versions, I know about the detachable cable apparently they are sold by soundprofessional.com in US and are higher in price.

        • +6

          Did not knew they were 6 versions

          See http://www.head-fi.org/t/596058/different-audio-technica-m50…

          You can do the detachable cable mod yourself and quite cheap, it's actually not too hard IF you know what to do..
          My advice - desolder and strip the M50 internal cables - use a different cable from somewhere else for the soldering from the Left Driver to the 3.5mm chassis for the removeable aux cable.
          Reason: The M50 audio cable is made to be sturdy! Very thick black plastic around 3 individually plastic-sheathed cables. Under the individually plastic-sheathed cables, you have enamel-coated copper wires.. Bloody unnecessary from AT's part. The enamel bit anyway. You use enamel-coatings for copper wires that don't have individual plastic sheathes, sharing the same major plastic sheath (this enamel coating is what allows audio cables in earphones to be so thin, the 3 copper wires will all run down in one single plastic sheath, and enamel is its 'insulator' against the other 2, where copper red is for the right channel, copper green/blue is for left channel, copper black (or just brown-goldish color) is your ground). Old phone lines (for dial-up modems), will usually have unsheathed copper wires, I would recommend you to use this wire if you're going to be doing the detachable cable mod.

          IF you can, avoid the plastic 3.5mm jack from jaycar. Get a barrel-one if possible.
          I went through one (it deformed under soldering-temperature) before I could get it to work.

          Reason: When you solder, the surface you want the solder to attach to also has to be hot, or the solder will bead and not stick to the surface.
          But the thing is, the metal prongs from the cube 3.5mm jack is WAY too close to the plastic, i.e. design flaw - whoever designed it, did NOT really think carefully!
          When the plastic melts - the metal plates that make contact with the AUX cord you use, they will also shift position, resulting in - FAILURE.
          http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS0132
          The jack I had success with - I had to have a small strip of wet tissue paper around the black plastic, even after soldering, the black plastic was hot-to-touch (but thankfully it didn't start melting and deforming!)

        • You lost me at desolder… but thanks for the info =)

        • You lost me at desolder… but thanks for the info =)

          That's the REALLY easy bit.
          To prevent damage to the driver, make sure your solder is nice and hot (to minimise contact time with soldering iron + driver.)
          Touch the solder you're trying to remove, and using the below tool (it's like a spring-loaded syringe/mini-pump), just touch the very-temporarily-liquid solder and you're good to go!

          Get one of these, cheap and unbelievably useful:
          http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=so…

        • Any tips on getting a recalcitrant Head-Direct re0 with the left driver working intermittantly (works if I toggle the connection to the left earpiece) right again =) DO i need to strip the wire and resolder?

        • From what I googled - re0 are in-ears?
          If that's correct, and if you're wiggling the cable to the left in-ear, chances are, the copper wire connecting to the driver would have been torn apart… And when you wiggle, that's the broken end brushing against the tip the other half. You'd have to open up the in-ear carefully and hope it doesn't break when you do.
          If I were you, at that point in time, I'd remove the existing solder (and the embedded broken copper wire in it), so you'd have a clean surface to solder onto.
          It really depends if you have enough of the broken end (exposed copper not enamelled) to work with.. If you don't you will have to strip a little bit of the wire, take the enamel coating off (with sandpaper or lighter).
          You might have uneven lengths of left and right wires :p
          IF you are wiggling the 3.5/2.5mm jack, that is much more simple to fix.

        • Thanks for the detailed info cwongtech, yep the re0 are in-ears, I may give it a go as nothing to lose, at best I get a working re0 =)

          "IF you are wiggling the 3.5/2.5mm jack, that is much more simple to fix." Well those symptoms describe my other recalcitrant pair of earphones, the UE350s. May as well fix that as well =)so what's the prognosis

        • For 3.5mm jack failure, just buy a 3.5mm jack from Jaycar ($2 or so), or 10 for $4 from eBay (plain black plug), snip off your failed jack, strip the wire, burn the enamel off/take off enamel coating, and solder wired to replacement jack.
          Don't really need to take off anything, just snip it off :)
          If you wiggle the jack and sound is not coming out properly, just means the wire broke at the jack.
          Professor YouTube taught me this knowledge, some guy called 'richs methods' iirc.
          Although the Jaycar guy will probably know, For your reference, Middle prong = ground, left for green/blue, right for red coloured wire.
          If you're not sure, the 9V battery trick (I used a 1.5V AA battery) can help.
          Simply tap 2 different coloured wires on the battery, with the earphones in and you'll hear some static like noises.
          If both sides are squawking, the remaining unconnected wire is the ground, and what you hold are the left and right channel wires.
          Hold ground + random wire + battery = one of the earpieces will squawk, and you will know what the random wire corresponds to.
          IF however, all combo of 2 of 3 wires make both earpieces squawk, you have a short (left channel and right channel are touching, exposed) somewhere along the cable, and not at the jack..

        • Thanks for the effort explaining, but don't you think the sound quality changes?

        • +1

          No, in reality, you're adding a very small piece at the back which is quite stiff - area between the driver + driver housing, that's where the bass is produced. And there's two pieces of foam there, the large piece helps produce that lovely quite thunder bass, slso dampens the treble + mids a little bit. But if you take that out.. the bass feels like it's someone with very little air around them, and they're trying to sing, the bass feels slightly weaker.
          The very small piece at the back (your 3.5mm chassis) shouldn't affect the sound too much because you're not changing the driver (the main component which produces the sound) + the 3.5mm chassis shouldn't dampen any sound vibrating at the back of your driver… unless it's made out of foam or some absorbent material.

          Short version: Yes it will change it by a little bit but it is negligible.

  • Great headphones!!.. You can get them slightly cheaper if you search around enough (approx. $115ish) but if you are looking for headphones now I wouldn't turn down this offer for the sake of a couple of dollars.

    • Kindly post if you could find, it would me not be much of a difference for us but it would matter for others.

      • No idea if anywhere is offering those prices currently - I just know that these headphones have gotten to those prices in the past, so if $10 was make-or-break for anyone I just wanted to let people know that if they search enough / wait long enough they might get lucky.

        From memory I got mine off an ebay store.

        • As per my knowledge e-globe is offering for $111 but postage is a rip off($39), if anyone could manage to get free post then its a bargain.

  • The white one is even cheaper. It is normally the more expensive one.

    • Yeah I have posted that later..

  • Great prices and local too. I got mine from Amazon for a little cheaper back when the exchange rate was more favourable. I think this is a great price for a great set of headphones.

  • thank you so much, I would buy the white one for a lady ;)

  • -8

    get dr dre beats

  • -1

    Absolutely awesome for price, I bought them last year for about $120 delivered from Amazon so I think they could get cheaper in future?

    But damn I never knew they came in red, wish I bought those instead!!

  • -1

    i bought these off amazon last year for a similar price. have to say that the sound quality is very good, particularly with good quality mp3s or flacs. however, i have read that there are better options at this price range, like the v-moda, shure etc, so it pays to do some looking around.

  • one more thing before buying:

    has anyone here bought anything from this seller? / are they trustworthy?

    • yes/ they ship from overseas- my AD700s arrived overnight/well packaged 36hours. (EMS if i remember correctly)

      I would not hesitate/ their prices are very good.

      • Thanks wbeer, I've found their EBay store, and I'll buy from there.

    • I have just ordered and awaiting my package, but it was suggested by one of the member here so I suppose its trustworthy.

  • I ordered them on amazon last month for $125 inc shipping. Prices have gone up since, but I'm sure will go down again soon.

  • For an extra $100 I am considering the the ATH-ANC9 (see: http://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/103833) which is noise cancelling, but can be used as regular cans, with NC turned off. Does anyone have an opinion as to whther these ATH-M50s will sound better than the ANC9's with the NC turned off?

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