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Panasonic 12-35mm f/2.8 ASPH X Lens for Micro 4/3 (H-HS12035) $772 @ JB Hi-Fi North Ryde, NSW

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I've been researching kit lenses for Micro Four Thirds cameras but extended my search to higher quality lenses and found the Panasonic 12-35mm f/2.8 lens is being advertised at JB Hi-Fi for $772 (Photo taken at North Ryde - Macquarie Shopping Centre NSW). Was able to negotiate just under $770 with a 58mm UV Kenko Filter. I believe this price is across all stores as I spoke to the city store and they confirmed this price too.

StaticIce shows lowest price is $839 (excl. $50 shipping)
eBay average price is around $1000
Other stores like Teds or Georges are $1350-$1400

Related Stores

JB Hi-Fi
JB Hi-Fi

closed Comments

  • Good price. I was considering the Olympus 12-40mm. Gonna have to rethink it.

    • The Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO is an all-metal construction whereas this Panasonic lens has a plastic barrel. This makes the Olympus slightly bulkier and heavier but it exudes quality and feels better in the hand. It also has a slightly more extended angle of view 30-84 degrees vs 34-84 and allows a closer minimum focus distance 0.2m vs 0.25m.

      • The 12-40 isn't an example of all metal construction at all. It may have a metal shell, but on the inside it's pretty much all plastic, including the mount. So the quality that you feel it "exudes" over the 12-35 is merely apparent rather than actual.

        If the 12-35 feels better in the hand to you though, and is therefore more pleasurable to you to use, then fair enough. I'm not going to argue with that. I just felt compelled to correct what is essentially a lie that was cooked up by the Olympus marketing department.

        • That's news to me but I don't think it matters much when high quality plastic components are used inside a well protected body. What I particularly like about the Olympus lens is the manual focus clutch. I find focus-by-wire a frustrating experience.

        • I don't think it matters either. Most lenses are primarily of plastic construction on the inside, aside from the elements obviously, including all the other "pro" m43 lenses. So I don't understand why Olympus is bothering to tell fibs about it.

          All metal or not, this is a good price for an excellent lens.

  • Great price, seems to be lower than even any grey price.

  • Good price. What sort of filter is the Kenko? (don't go with cheap filters, you won't be doing the lens justice)

  • wow. brilliant price. Nice find.

    Very very tempting but I'm struggling to justify. It's not in the same class, but my old 14-45 pana is OK for my needs. $$$ best spent on a new body I think.

    • Unless you have early m4/3 bodies, I would think money is better spent on good glass rather than the latest body…

      • Couldn't have agreed more. Unless the body is 2010 or earlier when m4/3 was still in its infancy, I would hold off the upgrade for a few years and spend the money on a good lens instead.

        Top quality lenses not only hold their value a lot better than camera bodies, they can give a new lease of life to your existig camera body and allow you to enjoy taking better pictures now, as well as later when you upgrade to a new body. Likewise, a good quality view-finder if your camera doesn't come with one.

      • If he had the 14-45 as the kit, then he probably has the first or 2nd gen of m43 bodies.

      • EPL2 and EP3 so both the old sensor. I tend to take a lot of low light pics so my thinking is that the higher ISO and better stabilisation of a new body might be a good option for me.

        • The E-P3 has the TruePic VI imgage processing engine (as on the E-P5 & OM-D E-M1) and is fine for low-light photography when fitted with a faster lens that lets in a lot more light.
          This is a much better way to spend your money than buying a newer body that allows you to bump up the ISO values while using your existing kit lenses, in terms of picture qualiy (less noise) and investment value.

        • What EarlyBird said, plus what focal length do you shoot at? The 14-45 is a variable aperture lens, so if you zoom you are getting into f4.5-5.6 territory which is slow for low light. This is a constant aperture lens which has a full 2 stop advantage over the kit lens at the long end. I don't think the newer bodies' ISO performance would give you a 2 stop advantage over the EP3?
          You'll get nicer colours and sharpness when you shoot in good light as well, not to mention the lens will be much nicer to operate (I used the kit lens for a while, the zoom ring was jerky :(

        • See if anywhere has the old 20mm on sale, the new 20mm is just a refreshed case.

        • I tend to shoot more or less over the whole range with the 14-45, but stay away from the long end in lowish light. So yeah, the constant aperture would be great. I've got the Sigma 60, which is nice but find that 2.8 isn't quite bright enough.

          I actually don't mind the feel of the 14-45. I think it's a little better than the 14-42. Also, I don't shoot much video so jerkiness isn't a big deal.

          cheers for the advice though. I'm still very very tempted, and my bday is coming up.

        • Already got it..the 20 was first lens I bought, back when BH had it for around $300 and the A$ was high. It gets a lot of use.

  • Bought the lens but I'm still trying to decide on a mirrorless camera to buy. I had my eyes on a few Olympus models, including OMD EM5, E-P5, or E-PL5. Any recommendations on these or other mirrorless suggestions?

    • +1

      I've been looking at the Olympus OMD EM1, EM5 and EP5 as well as the Panasonic GX7. I'm currently siding towards the GX7 because I can't justify the EM1 cost and I feel the GX7 has a better feel than the EM5. It came down to personal preference. Plenty of reviews show pros and cons for both models, primarily image stabilisation, focusing, viewfinder etc. …and yes, I bought this lens before I purchased a body. The deal was too good to wait out.

      • +1

        Tell me about it. The price was definitely irresistible. I haven't actually thought to look at any Panasonic models, but I'll check that one out. The EM1 was definitely out of price range.

    • +2

      You've listed bodies with very different form factors. Does size matter?
      The Olympus cameras don't have focus peaking in video mode, something to keep in mind versus the new Panasonics if you plan on using old manual focus lenses (GX7 and G6).
      In general, Olympus don't pay as much attention to video as Panasonic, so if you plan to use this for video as well as photos, Panasonic is a better bet.

      • Size isn't too big of a deal, though the EP5 is quite a nice size. I don't typically use it for video either, so odds are I wouldn't worry about focus peaking for video. Although I might check out Panasonic listed above anyway.
        I've handled the EM5 before and it's quite reasonable in terms of size and comfort, though the hand grip definitely helped.

        • From what I read, the Olympus cameras are nicer if you are mainly after a photo camera, whilst Panasonics are good for photos (but not as good as Olympus) but quite a bit better than Olympus as far as video is concerned (focus, colour, compression, etc). Olympus in-body IS is an advantage since Panasonic has to rely on lens IS. I've only had Panasonic m4/3 cameras so this is just what I read, not from actual comparison experience.

        • Hasn't the gx7 got in body stabilization? Or am I dreaming.

        • whoops, yes you are right, GX7 is the first Panasonic mirrorless that has in-body stabilisation.

    • +1

      As you have already short-listed a few cameras, the next step is to compare their specification and highlight the features that matter most to you.
      You then cross out the camera that lacks the highlighted features and that should help you narrow it down further.
      The final step is to go into a shop and test out the ergonomics of the cameras. You should let your head rules over your heart and decide on the basis of how does it feel in your hand when you hold it in many different ways and how easy it is to change important settings when taking picture.
      I hope that helps.

      • Thanks! I didn't think to try feeling the cameras in the different ways you'd shoot. Do you know of any good comparison sites?

    • I've tried the GX7, EM5 and EM1 but went with the EM5 in the end because the EM1 was a bit out of my price range and I preferred the look of the EM5. Olympus is apparently announcing a new entry level OMD in February. If you're not in a hurry it may be worth waiting a few weeks to see what specs it has?

    • Very very happy with my gh3 and gx7 combo.

  • +1

    I can confirm this is a national price.
    No WA stores have stock apparently, but you can order it in if you pay upfront.
    I'll be ordering tomorrow night.

    • Went to JB tonight and was told I couldn't order it and it was EOL and being cleared at near cost

  • Just received word from my friend who went in to the same store. Currently out of stock but got it at $58 less than me. I thought I had a bargain. Outplayed.

  • -1

    Saw this around Christmas so it has been this price in JB for a while. One thing you have to consider too is software correction within the camera. If you use an Olympus body, this lens is not corrected and the performance is much worse.

    • I read something like that from an official Olympus tech in Dpreview forums back in 2012 but not sure if that has changed with the Joint Firmware MFT they've implemented. Would be interested to know if this is related: http://www.four-thirds.org/en/special/download.html

      • This is a different issue. This is for updating lens firmware. I am talking about software correction of lens distortion and CAS. See photozone's lens review. http://www.photozone.de/m43/766_pana1235f28?start=1

        • +2

          All M43 lenses & All M43 camera bodies perform distortion correction automatically for JPEGs and include data to correct the distortion in the RAWS. Most photo editing software (lightroom, aperture, photoshop & more) will apply those corrections automatically.

          When Panasonic Lenses & bodies are used together they will correct Chromatic Aberration automatically. But Chromatic Aberration is easily corrected editing software.

        • A guy on DpReview has worked out that the Panasonic bodies use a stronger UV filter than olympus and a way to correct the CA is to use a special UV Filter that has a higher cut off point. And sometimes you can't fix the CA in post if the subject is purple ->blue

  • Anyone asked about the 35-100mm F2.8 ? I wonder if the price is good too.

    • +1

      • Go in store - it will only be stock on hand , but I got a 20mm 1.7 old model for sticker $323 but talked down to $300 for display, and a 45-150 for sticker $170 display down to $160.

        Looking for a store with 7-14mm or a 8mm

  • +1. Great lens. Great price. I own this one already but paid a lot more…

  • Wow, so many knowledgeable ozbargain photographers. Can someone provide me their opinion on this -

    I have the Panasonic GF3 which comes with:
    Lumix G X Vario PZ 14-42mm F3.5-5.6
    -My eyes weep every time I take photos with it in medium light.

    So I bought this fast prime:
    Lumix G 20mm F1.7 ASPH
    -The difference is night and day. Takes great photos in low light and for street photography. I'm in love with the bokeh effect.

    I can't decide between:
    This 12-35mm F2.8 lens (all rounder)
    or
    semi telephoto prime Olympus 75mm f1.8 ~$880 (fast and better low light)
    or
    putting the money towards the sexy GX7 ~$800 (new features, has physical buttons)

    I'm planning to travel to South America and want to capture everything from the people on the streets to the towns/mountain ranges in the distance. I don't want to carry too many things with me, so maybe just a normal lens and a telephoto lens.

    What are your thoughts? Some life decisions are hard.

    • If you want to spend just $800, get the 12-35mm lens. The 75mm is a specialized lens and is too long for most things. Price of GX7 may drop but this price probably will not change much.

    • How many people travelling with you? If you have multiple people in the party, then a second body is not a bad idea. Then again you are lacking a telephoto lens. I find I don't use my telephoto much on holidays so may be a second body + the 45-150mm Panasonic for $173 is worth considering too.
      I find the power zoom good for holidays because it packs small and the power zoom is fantastic for videos.
      The 75mm lens is a bit like a long portrait lens, a bit specialised…

    • Thanks for replying guys.

      Ok, I take the 75mm off my wish list. Seems the consensus is that it's not needed.

      I'm traveling with another mate but he's not much into photography. He uses his phone to take photos. I do too, but for geo tagging afterwards.

      I should have also added this as consideration too:
      olympus 45mm f1.8 ~$300

      Does anyone have a 20mm and 45mm prime lens? Would bringing just these 2 be adequate for traveling?

      Or are they too similar to bother?

      • If you are going somewhere with expansive views, you'll need something wider than 20mm (which works out to be 40mm on a full frame, which is more a "standard" lens rather than wide angle lens).

      • 20mm and 45mm are quite different. As for whether they are adequate, it's hard to answer the question as you can make do with just the 20mm, or both, or … Personally I would bring the 14-42mm

      • Hey mate,

        For that price range, have you considered the Olympus 9-18mm Wide Zoom? It's a great travel lens, and compact. If you fit it onto a GF3 body, it would probably fit into your coat pockets (I was just able to fit it into mine with a EPL-5 body)

        I just returned from 3 months in Europe and 1 month in China and the lens barely left my camera. When travelling, I also have the kit 14-42mm and the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 in my bag/pockets. Pretty good all round kit, lacking of Telezoom but didn't have too many situations where I really needed it.

        On my travels:
        Oly 9-18mm - everyday, all round lens, rarely left the camera.
        Pana 20mm - used for portraits, indoors, night
        Oly 14-42 Kit - used only occasionally when I needed a bit more reach

        All these lenses are pretty compact, so fit in pockets/bags really well.

        The only downside is the lack of image stabilisation with the 9-18mm lens on your camera body. But if shooting in daylight, may not be too much of an issue.

      • Yep, I should be looking into wide angle lens instead of telephoto lens for traveling. Thanks for swaying me, I was so focus on getting a telephoto. There were times I had trouble fitting a whole building into frame.

        Did a quick research on the suggested lens:
        Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 9-18mm f4.0-5.6 ~$700

        reviews look favorable.

        tspec, did you often find the small aperture of this lens constricting in medium light? i.e. you have to hold the camera really still due to the slow shutter speed. Else take dark photos.

        There is also a competing lens from Panasonic:
        Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm f/4.0 ~$1000

        Looks sweet but bit pricey.

        Either options will compliment my current 2 lens.

        Sigh.. too many options. Not enough money.

        Photography is an expensive hobby. Thank goodness for ozBargainers.

  • I went to JB HIFI today to get the 45-175. I asked the lady there if she would go any lower than $355 and she said no. Then she removed the sticker and the price showed $499 and put it back on the shelf and walked away. What the hell? I don't know what her problem is, but I won't be going back there again. Also are these pricing errors or something? The 12-35 is especially crazy cheap.

    • I can confirm the prices have now all gone up. 45-150 is $299, 45-175 PZ is $499 and 12-35 2.8 is $1200 (or $1300, I forgot).

  • I got mine for an amazing $700 in Canberra Centre last month. They had to have floor stock transferred in from another branch.
    Huge thanks to the OP.

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