Some good deals from Aldi next week. Multimeter, soldering iron etc.
Digital Multimeter $19.99
Engraver $14.99
Wood Burning Kit $14.99
Thanks @raynes
Other specials here
Soldering Iron Kit 40W $14.99, Digital Multimeter $19.99, 13W Engraver or Wood Burning Kit $14.99 @ ALDI
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[Deactivated] on 14/07/2018 - 14:33 aldi.com.au (7405 clicks)
Last edited 16/07/2018 - 11:46 by 1 other user
Last edited 16/07/2018 - 11:46 by 1 other user
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$hit their pants for starters.
they all have access to the same Chinese stuff on Alibaba …. the colours might be an issue.
Aldi has the advantage of selling great chocolate at the same location, Bunnings has the sausage sizzle …
Bunnings has the sausage sizzle …
Only on the weekends.
My local Aldi has a sausage sizzle every second Saturday.
I buy the sausages, support whoever is fund raising, then throw away the sausage.
Not into eating a scrap meat blended into a 'convenient' solution to sell the scrap off.
Does anyone know if they ever attempted to match the 1000 volt rated screw driver sets?
What sort of potato did you use to take the photo?
Unwashed.
And raw!
should have paid a few cents extra for a desiree.
Most of these items were not listed in that post and the catalogue specials aren't up on Aldi's website yet.
What is happening to that frayed iPhone cable in that ad? Liquid plastic welder, what is that? A glorified hot glue gun?
I'd say so, yeah. Maybe gets a little more precision as hot glue guns can go everywhere.
UV curing epoxy going off the description down the bottom.
Yep. I've tried the $1 knock offs (5 Second Fix). Didn't cure in 5 seconds, but eventually did.
Bondic was original of these I think.
What day does this start?
In 7 days so most likely Saturday.
I have this Aldi soldering kit. I would not recommend it, temp is too hot for the small tips. Iron doesn't fit properly in receptacle and cable is too heavy for detailed work.
OK for the odd job, but if you want a decent iron get one of the many off eBay for a little more.
I concur, bought this last time and it's a piece of junk, tips wont tighten up properly and it's made of the cheapest/worst grade plastic I've ever seen. do not buy.
What would you recommend? I bought a ps2 modchip, wires, solder, and an iron to do it. But the iron I have is so big that I chickened out and it’s all just sitting in a drawer.
Get one of those Hakko knock-offs, usually branded Huako (hahaha), temperature controlled irons on eBay.
The tips they come with tend to be crap but with the money you save just buy one or two genuine tips and you're good to go.
The ts100 irons look good, especially if you need to run in the field off 12v
Yep, TS100 gets good reviews.
That soldering station looks dodgy for that price. I would not buy it, i think it's asking for trouble. If you want to spend a minimum and want to buy something local to install your mod chip, get something like this at Jaycar for $19:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/40-watt-240v-soldering-iron/p/TS14…If your budget can go a bit higher, you can get something better like a temperature controlled iron (you set the temp and it stays at it) or a nice budget solder station.
Also get yourself a solder sucker (syringe type is good enough). It helps if you need to remove solder and you probably will seeing it sounds like this if your first try. Like this:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/metal-desolder-tool/p/TH1862Most important thing, learn how to solder (at least read some info and watch some YouTube videos). I'd suggest to also practice on some old junk circuit boards first before you touch your PS2. Most important tip of all - do not leave the iron touching the circuit board for too long (a couple of seconds is enough) or you risk overheating the electronics and frying some nearby chips.
i have the 25W, same brand, bought from Jaycar. They are worth the money for the quality that you get.
Yeah I got the Aldi iron previously as well and it was pretty crap, worse than my cheapie Jaycar. Using one of the Hakko knock-offs now which is far better, even with their included tips.
I definitely regret getting the Aldi soldering kit as well. You get what you pay for, I definitely wouldn't buy this again. I went out and bought an expensive one a while ago that will last me hopefully forever. Skimping on your soldering irons is definitely something I wouldn't recommend to anyone after my Aldi experience.
Thanks a lot for the heads up. Guess I'll just pick up one of the hakko clones off ebay.
Autobarn currently has their digital multimeter on sale for $12.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/battery-link-multi-meter-with-te…The Aldi one looks like the ZT102 or ZT98 which has more functionality. And takes 2xAAA too.
Aldi one displays up to 1999, so ZT98.
A slightly better version of the multimeter (3999 display) is available cheaper ($AU18.20), if you are willing to wait for delivery from overseas:
https://www.buyincoins.com/item/99573.htmlProbably available for less on Ebay.
Aldi might sell cheap Chinese crap but they have better quality control most of the time. Buyincoins can't even manage not to sell faked capacity SD cards (personal experience).
I've taken a punt on buying direct from China plenty of times but I'd be wary of something like this where safety is potentially an issue.
@lbft:
I think BIC is the same as many of the Chinese webstores - they don't know anything about the products they sell, they're only a marketplace. I've bought dozens of things from them, and only once had a problem - a "USB2" hub that was actually only USB1.1. I raised a dispute through PayPal, and they refunded me the next day, and they no longer sell that item.If you want to buy from a different website, similar prices here:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10045104/9629155-aneng-a…
https://www.gearbest.com/multimeters-fitting/pp_650320.html
The Autobarn multimeter is dangerous, because the 10A input is unfused. You'll very quickly learn why this is a bad idea, if you mistakenly leave the leads in the 10A socket and try to measure the voltage of your car battery. You'll very quickly get a lot of heat and quite possibly a fire.
If you are willing to put epoxy into the 10A socket, so it can't be used, then it's a reasonable multimeter as cheap multimeters go.
The Aldi multimeter has fuses on all inputs, so it is safer.
Actually, let me re-phrase that. Assuming the Aldi one is a re-badged Aneng multimeter, it is likely to be fused on both inputs. Check before you buy, the writing on the front of the meter beside each socket should tell you if the input is fused or unfused. If a socket can be used for measuring current, other than the negative socket, you want it to be fused.
Jaycar sells a version of that same very basic multimeter for $9.95 every day, and nobody's ever accused Jaycar of having particularly low prices.
Yes, I have never seen anyone say Jaycar has cheap prices ever :)
G
Save on electricity that’s for sure
The ZT102 or equivalent is only around $20 on ebay etc, and has true RMS.
I doubt the ALDI one is as good.Too bad hasn't been on special again recently from Gearbest or similar. With GST it's more like $25+ so if this Aldi was one 6000 counts (I doubt it though) it'd be an ok buy given you can get a refund easily if it goes faulty.
And yes my ZT102 has got a minor fault now; Current measurement doesn't work :(
checked the fuse?
Yep the little ceramic fuse looks ok. All the other functions seem to work fine.
@dufflover: If its ceramic, you won't know if its blown or not without testing it. Have you checked it by pulling it out and testing the continuity with your meter?
Since its the fuse for current measurement, you should still be able to test its resistance without it being in there, since that setting uses the other measurement port.@Cartman2530: Yep sorry meant to say I did test the fuse with continuity test and all that. Whilst I don't know the precise wiring of the multimeter the PCB tracks seemed to suggest all functionality went through the fuse first. It's like the first component right next to the probe plug.
@dufflover: Had a quick look on the net, found this review of a meter that sounds like it could be the same as yours, and it has internal pics!
https://www.markhennessy.co.uk/showpic.htm?budget_multimeter…
If its the same as yours, get another meter and test between the amps jack and COM. if you get a dead short the shunt is ok.
Then test R23 and R24 to see they are good. R23 has a thin trace on the other side going to the main IC (possibly, can't see), and R24 goes to the selection switch. Check that the selection switch and contacts don't have crap on them. Other than that, I can't see any more without it being in front of me.
https://www.markhennessy.co.uk/showpic.htm?budget_multimeter…
I hope that this helps.
@Cartman2530: Yep that looks like the ZT102 alright. Thanks for the tips! I'll take a look again this weekend.
Just a warning to anyone buying the multimeter, don't use it for measuring mains voltages/current. I wouldn't trust any CAT ratings it may have on it as they have not been independently certified.
Best usage would be for automotive or low voltage hobby work only.
I should buy one and do a review of it to see how accurate it is on voltage/current/resistance measurement. The cheap Bunnings meter I tested years ago wasn't very accurate at all.
I think you are being a little paranoid there. 240V insulation is trivial. Its not like working on high-voltage transmission lines.
240V can still kill you if you make a mistake.
Can you say for 100% certain that anyone can use this meter on mains voltages safely? I wouldn't trust my life on it. And not being paranoid, just cautious.
Most likely has no input protection or HRC fuses, just the cheap glass ones that'll power arc the meter apart if something goes wrong.
A 3V button cell can kill you too.
Are you one of those who think that simply touching a live wire is likely to be fatal?@manic: So you are arguing against safety first?
I work in an industry where safety is a top priority, there is nothing you can say to dismiss a cautious approach to mains voltages. You are a fool to think otherwise. There is a reason mains rated test equipment is independently certified, and why proper CAT rated meters cost a bit more.
A 3v button cell can only possibly kill you if you put it in your mouth or swallow it, and if you are swallowing batteries then you DEFINITELY shouldn't be playing with multimeters or the mains.
Yes, when testing 240V in a house, I use a reputable Cat III or IV multimeter.
That said, I'm qualified electrician and no one should be doing any 240V work unlicensed. It's simply too dangerous!
So you are arguing against safety first?
I'm the guy who wore thick shoes, on a rubber mat, with double gloves, long sleeves and safety glasses (plastic, not metal) when I had to work on live wires without RCD.
Total coward, but maybe because I'd been zapped a couple of times before.
God I hate those "so you are saying …" strawmen. Grow a brain and make your own arguments instead of putting phoney ones to other people.
@manic: You are arguing against me on one hand and saying I'm right on the other. Make up your mind.
I get annoyed at people that won't back their own arguments. How about you grow a pair and back what you are saying before criticising what I'm saying.
I'm trying to help other people not hurt themselves by thinking that they will be safe when its very likely that a $20 meter could cause them an injury, or worse, death if they use it on a mains circuit. My interest is purely harm reduction.
You on the other hand say that mains voltages are trivial and a $20 meter will be fine. That dangerous misinformation can cause someone to get hurt. If you haven't any electrical training, then you probably shouldn't comment on what is safe and what isn't.
Your username checks out. lol
@Cartman2530:
You want me to talk in simplistic terms like a populist politician?
Sometimes life is not so black and white.very likely that a $20 meter could cause them an injury, or worse, death
"very likely" or "could"? You contradict yourself is a single sentence. See, anyone can play such games.
Do you have any facts, or just fear?
I guess there are a lot of stupid people out there, so you could conceivably be right. Any citations? Google fails me, but perhaps you can find some example of death caused by these faulty multimeters. With so many millions sold, there must be some instance you can find? I can find many deaths caused by ladders, certified or not.say that mains voltages are trivial
Learn to read. Or stop dishonestly twisting words. I said that insulation of such voltages is trivial.
I'm trying to help other people not hurt themselves
No, you are virtue signalling. Trying to sound wise and superior. Yeah, me too :-)
@manic: Wrong, it is black and white where safety is concerned.
Grey areas get people hurt or killed.
If you knew about the topic you were arguing about you would have found it. Have a look on google for the term multimeter arc flash, and what happens when there is a transient on the line when the meter is measuring it. When a meter doesn't have proper rated HRC fuses or proper containment of the released energy it'll blow apart, with you copping shrapnel as you are likely the distance of the leads away.
The meter isn't "faulty" as you put it, it is not designed to absorb any transient fault currents of that type of mains circuit. For $20 it may just pass CAT I. I'd also suggest you look up what CAT ratings are and why they are important. Thats why I would only use this meter on low voltage automotive applications.
Yes, you say insulation is trivial, but you can't probe insulation can you? A conductor will still have to be exposed somewhere to measure something and that is where the danger is. WHEN you are measuring it!
I still fail to see where you have proven you have any formal training in electrical safety. Do you have any or are you just talking out of your rear?
That being said I still don't know what you are arguing? I'm being too safe? My life and the life and well being of others is worth more than a crap $20 meter, even if yours is not.
FYI, here is some good info:
https://assets.tequipment.net/assets/3/7/ABC-meter-safety.PD…Are you thinking of industrial/commercial situations?
But keep in mind the context here. Typically a home user running diagnostics on a faulty appliance.OK, he might accidentally have mA selected instead of volts, and get a bit of a flash. We've all done it.
And yes, it is very important to replace the fuse with the correct type. But that applies to any meter.Any examples of a dangerous flash from blowing a fuse in a home appliance? I've heard of it from big substations with low source impedance. Am willing to learn.
For $20 it may just pass CAT
If you think these ALDI meters are not compliant, make the accusation properly and back it up. That would be a big deal.
any formal training in electrical safety.
That's like saying you can prove you are sane because you have been psychiatricaly tested.
Have you had any formal training in crossing the road?
Yes there are lots of things best left to a trained person, but there are plenty of simple home tasks remaining. Maybe you think the average person is too dumb to do more than change a light bulb, but I disagree.I think in some ways you know too much. Like a medical student diagnosing rare diseases all around him.
Nobody is going to use an ALDI meter on a commercial switchboard. Or even a home one. Or at least thats not the audience here.It would be be good if you could point out some potential hazards without making blanket bombastic statements like "don't use it for measuring mains voltages". OK, you did follow that by "best", so I admit to overreacting. Am sick of seeing other self-righteous sparkies telling people they can't change a light switch because they are "not qualified".
TL;DR:
The DIY home user only needs CAT-II protection for testing/diagnosing appliances.
I'd be extremely surprised if the ALDI meter does not have at least that.https://assets.tequipment.net/assets/3/7/ABC-meter-safety.PD…
@manic:You have failed again to understand anything i have said. There is a reason why you have to get someone qualified in to do it as too many people tried doing it themselves and were hurt, or did dodgy work and started fires.
At this point you are just trolling. No one could be this obtuse to not listen to reason.
Cats have 9 lives!
Anyone tried the mini grinder/polisher before? Enough grunt for small jobs?
I bought an Ozito one from Bunnings a few weeks ago that looks very similar, it was only $15 on clearance. The fact that this one is $49 makes me think Bunnings would have been selling them for even more.
Unfortunately it's still in the box in storage, so I can't tell you how it would go, but I don't see why it wouldn't be good enough. It may not be as fast as a larger grinder between the smaller motor and circumference of the wheels but that just means you may have to leave things on there a bit longer.
The mini grinders are perfect for sharpening tungsten electrodes for tig welding. I have the ozito one mounted on the welding cart
I did see Bunnings has an Ozito for $30, and with 150mm wheels vs 75mm on the Aldi. Was after a polishing wheel which are cheap enough, trying to find a cheap tapered spindle has been a little harder so far.
bunnings spindles are cheap compared to other places.
Cheap relatively I mean. The spindles cost nearly as much as the grinder. Wouldn't be so bad if I could just buy the one I need, not a pair or multiple threads.
The soldering iron is rubbish, don't waste your money.
The Aldi multimeter model number is HP-39B which is different to ZT98 as suggested by others in this post. This does not take AA/aaa bateries either but rather 9V battery.
Now what will Bunnings do lol