Hi,
I need to replace one of my front right rotors, as it is making a wonk wonk sound when driving. Brake pads are still ok.
Do I need to replace both front rotors, or can I get away with replacing just the noisy front right one. I will be using after market rotors like dba because it’s much cheaper and has a good reputation.
If I need to replace both, how does replacing just one affect the other?
Thanks
Only the T3 and up are made in Australia now.
The T2 and below are made in China.
Brake parts alway replace in pairs. Pressure distribution could end up being different and wearing prematurely the new part.
I cannot tell you how to do it without knowing your specific car, but normally an easy job.
Apart from the sound, why do you think it is the rotor?
Could be many things…..Sticking brake caliper, worn wheel bearing, worn cv joint, loose wheel nuts?
Will double check all other things as well before replacing, but it’s only a 10 year old car. When I last checked the front brake pads the caliper pins did move freely. As for the worn wheel bearing it’s unlikely given the age of the car. Also, worn wheel bearing make a different sound. But thanks for your comment.
Also, if it is a warped or non-parallel rotor then why has it happened?
One of those questions where the answer has to be 'if you have to ask, then get a professional to do it'
Not really. With my car at least, if you can replace brake pads you're already 75% of the way to being able to replace the rotor.
Not disagreeing, but the op wants to replace a single rotor for some undiagnosed problem.
That screams danger to me
the op wants to replace a single rotor…
Perhaps read the post again.
inb4 "accident who's at fault - my brakes failed"
“Replaced one front brake and now car pulls hard to one side… what do?”
How to replace front rotors, well without knowing your car, I'll post the method that I find most cars use.
Loosen wheel nuts, jack car up, put on stands, remove wheel, remove lower caliper bolt, swing caliper up making sure to not stress the brake line, rubber mallet the f'ing disc off, wire brush the hub spotlessly clean, optional but I coat the hub in a thin smear of high temp grease, clean new disc, put it on the hub, place a couple of wheel nuts on thread to hold disc in place, put caliper back down, do caliper bolt back up, remove wheel nuts, put wheel back on, do nuts up hand tight, lower car, do nuts back up in recommended pattern.
Now as for your job, get a professional to check your car, I don't hear many "wonk wonk" sounds coming from brakes. Also I would never replace a disc without replacing the pads. Also never replace one disc, brakes get done in pairs.
I don't hear many "wonk wonk" sounds coming from brakes.
Not brakes, warped rotors. Also applying brakes at high speeds on highway causes lots of vibrations.
Rotors don't generally warp unless you're getting them hot enough to glow, warped rotors is the pad friction material that has coated the rotor being uneven, or uneven wear on the rotor surface.
Usually caused by crappy installation, like not cleaning the hub properly before fitting them.
And that is another reason why new rotors goes with new pads.
You're correct in that rotors don't generally warp. It's more of a case of rotor disc thickness variation caused by lateral run out, where the rotor is wobbling, for whatever reason, and hitting the brake pads unevenly. As you said, probably caused for crappy installation or rust build up in the hub.
Also applying brakes at high speeds on highway causes lots of vibrations.
May be worth getting a wheel balance check done…
how does replacing just one affect the other?
If you have to ask this….
Brakes are the one safety feature that you can't get wrong. Either do it under the supervision of someone who knows what they're doing or take it to a professional.
Get a professional to do it, could be other issues.
If in Sydney try these guys, been good for me and my friends
https://www.racebrakessydney.com.au/
Watch ChrisFix on Youtube
Lol already have among others as well
It would be nice to know what car it is. Is it a Mazda Bongo van?
Do both rotors. Have you checked the runout? Or is it uneven material transfer?
I'd do the pads as well unless they are near new. Pads are cheap.
Look at a few South Main Auto brake pad change YT videos to see how to do a complete job.
don't have the tool to check for run out. I will check for material transfer. It's going to be a process of elimination. If everything else looks ok then I will go ahead and replace the rotors.
I just use a soft pencil or permanent marker attached to an immovable point and spin the rotor until it touches. You can then see the high and low points. Do it at the mid point, outer edge, inner edge. It isn't a dial indicator but you get some relevant information.
I like to diagnose issues rather than firing the parts cannon at the car.
Out of curiosity is there a YouTube video on this method or you just made it up yourself?
@MuddyClear: It's just what I did when I first started as a brake mechanic as the workshop wasn't set up well and the boss wouldn't buy specialised tools. You can also use a fixed point on the caliper (not the floating part) as a datum.
There probably are YT videos but I haven't looked. I just make videos on scrap metal (Bondi Scrapper)
Brakes, suspension and tyres should be done in pairs. Exception being if the parts being replaced are relatively new.
Your "wonk wonk" sound doesn't came up in my crystal ball…….
If you are asking these questions, then as a 40 yr tradesman it is clear to me, you need to take your vehicle to a professional.
I can 99% assume the issues, and causes, and ultimately the solutions and answers, but I do not take risks with vehicles and safety.
Ask them the question, and I am sure you will get an exact and correctly diagnosed answer, and then solution, and an invoice after they have repaired your vehicle.
sound doesn't came up in my crystal ball…
I don’t trust anyone who uses a crystal ball…
I don’t trust anyone who uses a crystal ball…
And yet you seem to be placing trust in internet opinion. A lot of the time there isn’t much difference.
And yet you seem to be placing trust in internet opinion
I don’t have any trust in your internet opinion, so no.
Easy job, remove wheel, brake caliper, pads, caliper bracket and then any screws that may be pinning the rotor against the hub (if there is one, some cars rely on the force of the wheel to seat the rotor) and then remove the disc.
Note that being 10 years old it may be fused to the hub - so a puller could be a good investment.
Then clean the mating surface (this is vital) really, really well and do the above but backward.
To conclude this thread I replaced both front rotors, and now the rotational sound is gone. To all those who provided useful comments, I thank you. As for the trolls please try harder.
thanks for the update
DBA rotors are good quality and value and made in Australia.
If 1 requires replacing it usually means that the other side one also needs replacing at the same time or it is very close to replacement time.
I wouldn't cheap out on something as critical as car brakes.