It's been a while since this stuff has dropped under $30.
Specs: https://www.nulon.com.au/products/full-synthetic-engine-oils…
Don't forget cashback.
It's been a while since this stuff has dropped under $30.
Specs: https://www.nulon.com.au/products/full-synthetic-engine-oils…
Don't forget cashback.
Whichever full synthetic is cheaper, as long as it meets your vehicle's manufacturer specifications and you change your oil according to the recommended service intervals.
I don't believe you, sorry.
Yeh nah stay off the internet pls
@opilot87: Yeah fair enough. Do what's best for your engine. If its old and clearances large don't worry.
I'm basing my comment on years in mining engineering, working with rotating equipment and doing oil analysis.
@wetwork: But are you google certified mechanic like everyone on OB? 😆
@itstuan: Nah - just both a Chemical and Mechanical Engineer via university, 35 years of experience and certification by Engineers Australia.
Thus less qualified than most on OB to state an opinion on this issue.
BTW anyone can do what they want to their engines.
@wetwork: We're talking about automobiles here… You know, "cars" to the layperson.
@TEER3X: Still rotating equipment including surfaces that slide over each other..
Plenty of cars on commercial/industrial
sites. Additionally, most utility vehicles are car based and their engines are almost identical in design.
Anyway that's what I believe to be true. Others may disagree.
@wetwork: From my understanding: most synthetic oils targets mass cars, so they'll have compatibility with most type of usual added oils.
Secondly additives are consumed during use, so any incompatibility in-between oil changes will be minimised.
Cars are designed for consumers and have a higher tolerance for operating error unlike mining machinery which can cost a company millions.
education: engineering drop out
@wetwork: You give your engine oil a flush, you risk opening up a whole new can of worms. I really think that's bad advice to the uninitiated at least.
@opilot87: Why?
Best to keep to one oil brand/type though.
Different oils carry different additives and are often not compatible, unles you carry out a full flush and clean out.
What a load of cobblers
My car requires dexos 1 Gen 2 which this is . Castrol Edge is not . Dexos 1 gen 2 is formulated to help mitigate LSPI .
I find the Nulon is just as good compare to Castrol 5w-30 full synthetic. Not the best deal as https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/519448 though.
This is the best deal for 5W-30 atm
Semi synthetic version $15 @ autobarn
better price than woolies oil….
The Nulon semi-synth 5W-30 meets the ILSAC GF-5 and API SN specs.
So it's a reasonable oil for the money.
True but this is a better deal as it's 2 x Semi for $1 less.
Semi synth deal page Link
I used to use this oil in my old '89 Rodeo ute because it was generally cheaper than Penrite, but then I switched to using their High Kilometre Semi-Synthetic and found it to be excellent for the older engine. It made me a real fan of Nulon lubricants.
What was the difference that you have noticed?
The High Kilometre blends have additives that are supposed to rejuvenate old seals and help the oil stick better to worn surfaces. I felt the engine did run a bit smoother after using it a couple of times (but that may have just been my subconscious self-convincing me), however I noted there was definitely less leakage over time. The engine wasn't exactly a sieve, but you could always tell where the ute had been parked for a while. The drips almost stopped completely and I found I wasn't topping up anywhere near as often.
Thanks, that's interesting about oil consumption and dripping. I may give it a try.
20w50 is too thick for some cars though
Hence why it's good in older engines, where things are no longer quite as tight as they used to be so thicker oil is better as it will cling to surfaces and fill tiny gaps much better. Also, once an engine gets beyond a certain age it'll probably be happy with just about anything you stick in the crankcase, especially for one that probably hasn't been well maintained all its life.
Do you really need to change the oil yourself? Thought oils meant to last untill next service? Leaving untill next full service should be sufficient for newer vehicles or unless it’s a old crank of bolts.
Service yourself and save $100. It’s fun.
I go for the middle ground, buy this on special and get my mechanic to change it . Half the cost of using his oil so I get to keep my ozbargain licence without getting my hands dirty.
You take oil to your mechanics…?
Your mechanic must really like you lol.
Since you're eating his profit margin by being cheap, he'd just charge you more elsewhere, or fix stuff that doesn't really need fixing.
Used to do that as well. I bought the oil & filter & just let the local mechanic change it for $50. Now I attempted to do it myself to save a little, but ended up spending lots more on tools 😆
I agree it’s satisfying changing oil yourself. But expect to spend a couple hundred bucks on tools and get your driveway/garage really messy.
A couple hundred?
I guess I got lucky, didn't need to raise my car to remove the filter or drain plug. Spent only $10 to get an oil drip pan and funnel.
@TEER3X: Yes its added up pretty quick if you don’t already have everything, from the car jack to even the oil filter removal too. Good thing is next time I won’t need to.
@itstuan: Oil filter removal tool is one investment I need to make. I always overtighten the filter (pre oil the seal too). Ended up smashing a screwdriver through the filter last time just so I could remove it. Not pretty
Mobil 1 5W-30
Mobil 1 0W-40
Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP
Mobil 1 5W-50
All $54 per 5 L bottle!!!!!
Repco has a lot of good oil deals recently. I've posted a few additional ones here
This or Castrol Edge currently $35 at Supercheap?
I usually use Castrol Edge myself.