Honda City 2018 Stuttering on Low Speed Acceleration

Hi all, having a bit a dilemma at the moment.

Wife's car is a Honda City 2018 and still under their 5 year warranty. Wife took the car for a recall and a service at a same time at a Honda dealership. The car always had stuttering intermittently, but after we got the car back, the stutter got progressively worse.

Fast forward a few months, now I can reproduce the stuttering whenever I step lightly on the accelerator. Took the car back to the dealership. The dealership says they can't find anything wrong with the car, they said they checked everything, spark plugs, etc. etc., they pointed to the fuel, etc, but pretty much a suck it and see situation. I still feel the stuttering is not right, I would like to take it to my local mechanic to have a look at, as a second opinion.

I am not suspecting the recall caused the stuttering, I just want the stuttering to be fixed. Do you think the stuttering is a warranty issue or should I just get it fixed at my local mechanic? What do you think I should do?

Comments

  • +3

    My local dealer/service centre are a bunch of con artists but at least last time I reported an issue they offered to make time for service manager or senior tech to ride along and see if the fault I reported could be narrowed down. Conveniently, problem is not shown up again in months…

    • +1

      If car is under warranty and you have serviced it at the dealership according to log book then it should be running properly and you have a right to get the issue fixed.
      So just take it back to the dealer and insist on taking them for a ride to demonstrate the problem.

      They are not going to listen to some unknown mechanic.

      If you do take it to a mechanic you…
      a) take the risk of the mechanic meddling with your car
      b) risk voiding the warranty
      c) pay the mechanic to fix the problem whether its under warranty or not

  • +6

    Experience from a previous car that was stuttering when accelerating could be an issue with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, might be worth getting some MAF cleaner and giving it a clean to see if that fixes the issue.

    • Ok, the car only stutter if I am accelerating lightly. If I press the accelerator harder, the car doesn't stutter, is the MAF easy to get to? I am not really a car person, I can do an oil change and change the wiper, but I am not familiar with all the parts of a car. Lol.

      • +4

        This is the MAF sensor, to hcca's point it could also be a split hose. All of this should be covered under warranty so might be worth taking to another dealership if still under warranty and letting them know what you think it might be.

        https://www.wheelsjoint.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/honda…

        That sensor can usually be removed using a couple of screws, however be careful when cleaning these as they can be delicate and expensive. Below is a MAF cleaner.

        https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/crc-crc-mass-air-flow-se…

      • The mass air flow sensor will be on the intake pipe that connects the air filter to the throttle body. Your car will be using a drive by wire (electric throttle), check to see if you have dirt build up in the throttle body that could be causing the throttle to get stuck or making it hard for electric motor to move.

        The issue that you are getting could be from so many things, how many Kms on the car?
        Spark plugs should be good for at least 100000kms and fuel filter maybe 80000kms but they can go longer than that.

        Could also be the gearbox?

        • Yea, I know it could be a few things. When I took it into Honda the first time, the service department person said that they checked the spark plugs and fuel pump and they were ok. I will see what they find the next time I bring it in.

          Seems to be the consensus on this thread that it might be the MAFS or the CVT? My mechanic also mentioned it might be the throttle body but he didn't check it or anything, he just took the car for a drive. The car has done about 70000-80000kms. Are these issues warrantable?

          • @geek001: Dirty throttle body won't be a warranty issue it's more a maintenance issue but most mechanics don't clean the throttle or MAF unless you get an issue. I service my car and I do clean them it regularly.

            Gearbox is a issue unless it just needs an oil change. It could be lifetime fluid which is a load of shit no such thing, it won't have a set time to change it if it's lifetime fluid. Check your service manual to see if says when to change the gearbox oil.
            It could help to take the car for longer drive on the highway get everything warmed up well.

            My partners Corolla had a squeak from like 30000kms still under warranty tried to get Toyota to fix it, They tighten the drive belt which probably made the issue worse. I changed the drive belt it helped but didn't fix the issue fully. It's got a bad bearing in the drive belt line. Probably idler pulley but they do get water pump issues also. In the end Toyota never fixed it they like to stuff around till it's out of warranty.

    • +4

      This is my guess too. Could also be an air leak/split hose in the intake.

      • +1

        Do you know if this is covered by warranty usually?

        • +2

          If it's a split hose, probably. I would argue that an intake hose should last a lot longer than ~4 years. An air leak might just need some clamps adjusted or something.

    • Agreed the MAF would be my first go to,
      $10 electrical spray, 2 screws and bobs your uncle. (heaps of youtube videos on this).

      Otherwise if you drive a car on short city trips and it never gets a chance to do a carbon cycle you might have carbon build up/partially clogged injectors.

      My alternative would be to get some engine cleaner
      and maybe give it the old italian tune up by driving a bit harder. It fixed my Audi which had woeful fuel consumption (still not amazing but 2l/100km better) and the engine performance is far better.

  • +3

    What do you think I should do?

    Take it to another stealership.

    Family member had a new car still under warranty with the engine light coming on all the time.

    Local stealership had no idea and just reset the codes each time.

    They took the car to another stealership and they diagnosed and fixed it in a few hours, under warranty.

    • Ok. The issue is I am not sure if it is a warranty issue. I might have to cop a large repair bill from the stealership otherwise compared to if I just take it to my local mechanic.

      • +7

        Unless you've been doing something stupid, like putting diesel into a petrol car or missed services, or played around with the car yourself etc., it sounds like a warranty job to me.

        When you drop the car off mention that anything outside a warranty fix they will have to contact you first.

  • +2

    Take the car to a different honda dealer and tell them you are planning to buy the car and like them to check and list down the faults. You might have to pay for this, but will get a proper diagnostic.

  • Automatic or manual?

    • Sorry. Automatic. Should have stated this.

      • +1

        Ok. If you drive it mostly like a granny then it's time for an Italian tune-up.

        Get the car up to full operating temperature, find a nice quiet backroad and let her rip for 5 minutes.

        Have fun and thank me later.

        • -1

          Usually, I have passengers in the car, if I push the accelerator too hard, the passengers may get car sick, and besides, when you are driving on suburban roads, you don't need to accelerate very much when the car is moving. :P

          • +3

            @geek001: No passengers allowed during an Italian tune up. Just yourself and a quiet backroad. Drive it like you stole it and the police are chasing you.

            • @MS Paint: I have to ask, how does that help with the stuttering issue?

              • +6

                @geek001: If you have been driving it like a sissy then you will get carbon deposits and other gunk on the exhaust side of the engine. Driving it hard (close to redline without slapping the rev limiter) you will potentially blow all this shite out. Not all problems are on the intake side.

                Fill the car up with premium unleaded and give her a good thrashing. You won't kill the engine. The rev limiter is there to protect you so don't stress. It's time to jizz that jazz my friend.

                • @MS Paint: This is true. Also, Op should also take any new car on a nice long highway cruise to wear it in.

                  • +3

                    @Transient: This is not true.

                    The worst thing you can do with a new car is a long highway cruise. Driving at a constant engine speed isn't healthy for a brand new engine. The engine should spend maximum time with varying revolutions in the early stages and avoid the use of cruise control.

                    • @MS Paint: Worked for me

                      • @Transient: Modern everyday car engines are so good that what you or I would do probably has no major difference on the longevity of the engine. All just luck of the draw really.

                        • @MS Paint: Yes, YMMV. I find taking a new car out for a nice highway drive after a few months of city driving tended to make later city driving feel smoother - car didn't feel as stiff / rough.

                        • @MS Paint: Actually, I haven't driven a new car for ages. Maybe the newer cars don't need to be run in any more. I found it was good for the 4.1L Falcon and the 2004 X-trail.

                          • +1

                            @Transient: By new I thought you meant straight from the dealership.

                            After the first 200km or so the piston rings are bedded with the hone on the cylinder walls. After that it doesn't really matter.

                            I agree that any car needs a good long drive to blow out the cobwebs on a semi regular basis - especially diesels.

        • +1

          These cars aren't much fun with their lethargic cvt and buzzy 1.5L 4 cylinder.

          • @JIMB0: @MS Paint ^ this is the main reason I am not following your advice. :P Lol.

  • +1

    If the fault is easily reproducible any competent mechanic should be able to find it.
    Take it to another mechanic who works on Honda's regularly to diagnose it - pay them for their time and then get Honda to fix it.
    At a guess it's a fuel pump/filter or throttle body dirty/faulty.

  • I think I might do this, take it to my local mechanic to diagnose the issue, then see if it is a warrantable issue.

  • +1

    If it's fuel related, might be worth getting some octane booster to see if it helps the issue.

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-octane-booster-cle…

    • I have tried putting u98 in the Honda City! it helps a little, but doesn't fix the problem.

  • +2

    should I just get it fixed at my local mechanic?

    No. It's a car under warranty. Take it to the dealer. Demonstrate the issue and they need to fix it.

    I once brought my car to the dealer because the foot clutch lever was clicking when you depress it. They replaced the entire thing.

    This is what warranties are for.

  • +1

    Could be throttle body needs a clean, Spark plugs/coils need replacing, air filter blocked When was last service? How many K's what was previously replaced to rule out…..

    • The car has probably done 70000kms or 80000kms now. The car has been serviced according to the new car schedule.

      • My bad admittedly didn't read in enough detail otherwise would have seen 2018 model, Stuttering would be warranty if it's an electrical/ecu problem. where did you fill up last? reputable servo? How old is the fuel in it? with covid i know my merc has only done a couple thousand k's over the last year if that. Also can yo remeber when it started doing it and events before hand?

        Also from reddit

        nullvoid88
        ·
        2 yr. ago
        Long shot… but could it be the torque converter lock up clutch? When said clutches first came out there were many similar complaints… they'd 'hunt' engaged/disengaged on occasion. Some in the biz termed it a 'chuggle'. (Not sure about the spelling.)
        penguin_zombie8888
        ·
        2 yr. ago
        Yes! I have the the exact same thing with my 2018 EX. It does it in stop and go traffic, too. It's like when you're coasting down to around 10 mph then you hit the gas pedal and it feels like you're driving over a weird bump in the road. It seems like there's a right and wrong time to hit the gas pedal. When you're coasting, it seems like you have to let it go over its "bump" before you can hit the gas to accelerate again. It's weird, but I think it's normal for this car.

        Link below

        https://www.reddit.com/r/civic/comments/f7ceh6/2017_honda_ci…

  • +3

    It’s a warranty claim, so take it back to them. Maybe take some video footage of the issue (have a passenger film with the radio off and windows down)

    but… I had a RAV4 (2001ish model)develop a stuttering issue after some work on the head under warranty. Got worse and worse over a few days. I took it to my local mechanic to check codes and it was throwing all sorts of codes. I think it got out on a tow truck from his workshop, but it was a long time ago. Went back to the dealer and they eventually found it had a poorly connected or missing earth lead. Because of the bad earth, there were multiple codes and issues. Once connected back up it ran perfectly again.

  • +2

    Time for them to do some actual mechanicing. It could be dirty fuel, so did they remove the filter and get a sample/inspect the tank? Have they checked the throttle body for carbon buildup, maybe it needs a clean? Have they done a live data comparison between the accelerator pedal and throttle body switches/sensors, maybe theres a burnt spot on the potentiometers?

  • There could be a fault on anything and there is no way we can help you without there in the car. Best bet to take it to another Honda authorised dealer and get it checked out under warranty.

  • +1

    Ok, update on this. I took it to my local mechanic, and he took a quick drive and he also advised me to take it back to Honda, most likely a warranty issue. Booked in with the same Honda dealership again, not sure if that is wise, but I felt it would be better for continuity but not sure about the competence since they didn't find anything the first time. Fingers crossed.

    • Keep us updated.

    • +3

      Nice that you are giving them another chance but keep the option of another Honda stealership open.

      Another stealership may do better as they would be seeing the issue with new eyes.

      Good luck.

    • Did the mechanic give you any hints as to a cause? Sometimes it’s nice to go to the dealer and tell them what needs fixing so they don’t spend half a day stuffing around trying to work out what the problem is.

      My previously mentioned RAV4 had a valve issue (common) that meant it smoked like crazy on a cold start. Took it to the dealers the night before, told them to cold start it and check the smoke. The apprentice or someone must have moved the car in the morning beforw a decent mechanic could look at it. they couldn’t work out the issue because they didn’t check it on cold start and didn’t believe me what was wrong.

      • No he didn't because diagnosing will cost me. He just took a short drive around the block and told me he could replicate the issue, and told me to get it back to Honda because they are not looking hard enough and also because the car is under warranty. I can't believe Honda with their fancy equipment specifically for Honda can't find the issue, so a bit nervous about the competency of the service department of the dealership. Ironically, I looked on Google reviews, the Honda dealership has the highest rating compared to other Honda dealerships around me.

        • Probably high ratings because they have nice coffee or clean toilets or some unrelated reason.

          I'd ask to speak to the service department manager and explain your frustrations in a cool and collected way.

          • @MS Paint: Yea, I read some of the reviews and started to see a trend forming, the positive reviews are to do with car sales, the negative ones are the car services.

        • Sure diagnosing does cost money, but the mechanic (like others above) could give you a couple of pointers to start with. After all, he did drive it and probably has some experience fixing problems like it.

          • @Euphemistic: I did tell him when I dropped the car off that I am happy to pay him for his time to look at it. It needed to be fixed regardless of under warranty or not. The car belongs to my wife and the stuttering is quite unsettling when she is driving it.

            I understand how fixing things work with a few educated guesses sometimes. Taking stuff apart, test and put it back together takes a while to do. I think my local mechanic just didn't want to charge a loyal customer for no reason, when the diagnosing should have been done competently at Honda. Also he might not have the spare parts for testing.

  • +3

    Is it an Auto? Or a CVT?
    Honda CVTs have a lot of issues with the low speed stutter, the cvt fluid often needs to be replaced twice as often as the service schedule recommends. The CVT probably needs to be replaced, and they are avoiding it.

    • +3

      ^ This is the answer right here , Honda's (and Honda Jazz also) are HIGHLY susceptible to this sort of issue if the CVT fluid isn't replaced on schedule.

      Use ONLY genuine Honda CVTF (Continuously Variable Transmission Fluid)

      A Honda expert mechanic has this to say:

      • Very important for CVT oil changes to happen at 20,000 kms tops! Honda recommends a change every 40,000 kms, but that is NOT recommended due to our driving conditions (continuous stop-go traffic, heat, dust). This is one of the primary reasons you see so many bust CVTs on 75,000 km Honda Citys.

      Basically if you have been driving the car since new and have not had a single CVT oil change , that's your problem right there. replacing the fluid will get rid of the bulk of the stuttering symptoms and it should drive normally thereafter.

        • Thanks, the "jerky movement" section describes the issue the car is having. I didn't mention this, but there is sometimes a mild rattling noise during acceleration as well.

      • I am not sure if the CVT oil has been changed. The car is ex-demo and I have been getting the car serviced according to the schedule, for fear of voiding the new car warranty.

        Thanks for that. I now think this is the main cause of the car problem. I will see what Honda says when I bring it in.

    • Would this also cause it to take several seconds to go from reverse to drive?

      • @JIMB0

        Would this also cause it to take several seconds to go from reverse to drive?

        Several seconds? …..not very likely.

        My partners car (not a Honda) has one of those newer fancy auto transmission gear shifter with a "Dial" where you twist it (bear in mind that its a standard auto, not CVT), its electronic in initial operation but mechanical in its final process and it takes 2 solid seconds to go from drive to reverse and vice versa , its absolutely annoying as hell …and its a "new" car that has done under 20,000kms , nothing wrong with the car that's just how it is.

        In general however CVT and standard auto gearboxes in most cars should be basically instantaneous provided you have come to a full stop , even if your moving at a slight momentum against the direction you want to go and then shift it should still be pretty quick (not recommended to do often as you put a lot of strain onto the gearbox wearing it out faster and potentially causing damage).

        If you mean in the literal sense …several seconds… like say anymore then 2 then i don't think an oil change is going to fix that and its highly likely something else but you could give it a go and see if it helps your situation , if anything you would be prolonging the overall life of the transmission as a whole.

        In reality there is still a mechanical motion that motion could be slowed because the oil that's meant to lubricate and protect , instead has become super thick and contaminated due to neglect and not servicing the car by schedule then the process does get slowed as a whole.

        People also forget that bigger aftermarket wheels and tyres on a drivetrain (transmission) that was not originally designed to handle also puts a lot more stress/strain on the components causing premature wear and failure especially if more frequent maintenance is not observed and carried out to compensate the increased load.

    • Yes, I think it is a CVT, I wasn't aware the CVT is different to Auto.

      • I’d google Honda CVT Issues and see if sounds familiar.

  • Had similar issues with vw tiguan it turned out that the fuel injectors needed a clean. Again it took a long time to diagnose but the car drives like new now.

  • It sounds like the crank position sensor, a simple hall effect sensor mounted behind harmonic balancer. Very easy to change as long as your got a harmonic balancer puller, (auto stores like super barn or auto cheap). When it gets dirty or old it can cause stuttering, low power and generally your car to run like crap.

    • Surely you are pulling my harmonic balancer? :P

  • Check plugs then fuel filter & injectors, what does the OBDII codes say, if any? You do have an OBDII reader?

    • I do have a OBDII reader. I think I tried to hook it up one time to my previous car. Everything looked like gobbledy gook to me on my laptop. I am not a car person unfortunately.

  • They know precisely what the issue is….. it is the fuel injectors!

    You enquire into what this recall was all about… then you pump them for answers relating to fuel injectors… they will confess to a batch of faulty injectors "but your serial number does not include you"…. well it does… it is the same fault…. so have them remedy the fault for FREE.

    • I never bothered to ask my wife what the recall was about. Now that I thought about it, I think it is something about fuel injectors. Thanks for that, might try it.

    • The recall was for the fuel pump.

  • I think the Honda dealer is trying to fob you off until warranty expiration. I'm sure engine stuttering is not new to them. Honda is restructuring their dealership network into an agency model in which is reportedly one reason for poor record of new car sales.

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