best price it's been accordingly to CCC
Comes down to about $21.36 per tb.
Yes it can be shucked, however might require the pin trick.
CamelCamelCamel.
just order 2 drives, cant resist with this price …
Wifey is going to kill me.. Damn you ozbargain
Don't tell her
If she didn’t kill him for having an 18TB porn collection, she will now.
Do these come with Australian power?
No, but you can request by contacting them.
They have an email I think
Open support ticket on their website and they will send one
On WD's website? Sorry to be a pain, but can you elaborate?
@Frunk: Would like to know this too. Just chatted to Amazon UK online support and they were useless.
@RedoxSparda: Create an account and register the product on WD. Then create a ticket from the registered product requesting AU adapter.
@c0lch3y: Thanks for the advise! However it means I'd have to wait until I receive it physically then register with WD and wait for them to send an adapter. Was hoping to time it all together so I can use it as soon as it arrives. Anyhow beggars can't be choosers!
@RedoxSparda: If you have a similar drive, it uses the same cables. Just use them until the ones from WD arrive. From memory mine arrived within 2 weeks (they may have been posted from overseas)
Missed the 14% cashback :-(
You only missed $20. Plus the sale was posted after the cashback period was over.
Thanks got one.
Ordered 2. Thanks, OP! At this price I'm so tempted to make it 4. This deal is reminiscent of the 14TB for $299 a couple of years ago. Back then I ignored it and regretted it when I needed to buy a couple of 14TBs for as high as $390 a pop.
Yep and if you putting them in an array, have a spare incase you lose a drive
Wow great price
Prices went up because of crypto mining and COVID, but now are coming back down. This will be the low till Black Friday probably.
How does crypto affect HDD prices, do they need to store the data?
Basically, yes, the mining involves data storage.
https://blocksandfiles.com/2021/05/18/chia-bitcoin-disk-pric…
@greennick: TIL, thanks. Hopefully the HDD price will also crash just like we're seeing with nvidia GPUs.
If only I could split it in half…
Have you tried an axe?
Damn it, why did i get 2 ordered…?
Where is the cancel button? I cant find it!!!
I guess this is my destiny…
sorry cancel button gone /s
(incase you're serious)
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/css/order-history
press cancel
Damn I jumped on the 14tb deal at 4pm and it says cancellation isn't guaranteed…
I placed an order for a 14tb at 4.30pm and cancelled it at 10.20pm. I too received the same warning. I went ahead anyway and received a successful cancellation email a few minutes later.
Cheers, read your comment and then was able to successfully cancel!
Bought 2. Cheers.
If I want to use this as a master backup drive, external, not shocked…
1. Is it a safe drive or do I need a duplicate of everything I store? Eg photos.
2. If I use it for tv shows, does it wear it out if it's always plugged into a laptop/desktop which is always on?
The enclosure is likely to fail first rather than the drive. HDDs prefer to be kept running compared to start/ stop, as there's less wear on the motors.
i totally agree with (2) .. and have set Win11 to wait at least 1hr to power down my external USB HDD, yet it still powers off after about 10-15mins. Driving me nuts. Ive found a couple tools that will write small files to the drive periodically to keep it awake, but it'd just be great if Windows acknowledged its own power management settings!
The HDD inside the enclosure has its own power management settings, which may not change via Windows' power management. Maybe try following this guide and see if it helps (and let us know how you go).
@stebie: thanks for the tip!
seems whatever command/syntax i throw at the USB HDD (device 'sdb' or 'hdb') returns the same sort of error
.\hdparm.exe -i /dev/hdb = "HDIO_GET_IDENTITY failed: Function not implemented"
.\hdparm.exe -B 250 /dev/sdb = "HDIO_DRIVE_CMD failed: Function not implemented"
sda / hda is the pri SSD and gives expected output (eg. from "-i")
There's no other storage on this laptop, so sde, hdg, sdf, hdk all return expected "no such file or directory".. so i assume hdb or sdb should be correct…
I am looking up further now to see if i can figure it out….
@swampson: I wasnt able to figure out the weird 'function not implemented' error .. but i tinkered a bit more and found that turning off "allow windows to power off this device" in Device Manager did the trick!
No drive is a safe drive, duplicates are good, triplicates are better.
Everything wears out but these things sleep.
+1 for triplicate suggestion. I have 2 portable HDDs. Did not use it for 6+ months and both stopped working. I lost all photos and videos of original quality :-(. Fortunately I've a backup (decent quality) in cloud.
This may not be the thread, but can I ask for suggestions on how to recover files if these HDDs are not even detecting? Not even in Disk Manger. Just asking as we've the right people here.
PS: I don't want to send it to labs for recovery as the data is personal.
If the portable drives are shuckable you could try that, the hard drives may be OK. I avoid non shuckable drives.
2.5” or 3.5”? Which brand?
@NotTheRealMe: WD isn't, you may be in with a chance with the Seagate
You don't use the same power adapter to check if each drive is working?
@The Magic Pudding: These are without any external power adaptors.
After many reconnect attempts, WD HDD got connected. But, the file system is corrupted. Its showing as RAW.
I tried Recoverit and I can see most of the files. Need to purchase a license to recover.
Exploring other softwares.
Thank you for your time.
@NotTheRealMe: I would recommend if you are going to buy data recovery software you get this one
It's actually used in the industry and has some pretty advanced functionality.
That RecoverIt software seems your usual low effort bait where they try and get people to sign up for recurring subscriptions.
- Is it a safe drive or do I need a duplicate of everything I store? Eg photos.
There is no such thing as a safe drive. You always need a duplicate if you care about the data.
All drives fail one day.
Thanks OP. I don't know anything about that fancy RAID stuff, but I've been looking for a deal on an external HDD for a while; gonna MacGuyver myself a NAS with a raspberry pi and some duct tape.
Can these 18TB drives be used in a DS920+? Planning to buy and install 2 for now, but online reviews say that the DS920+ "supports a maximum raw capacity of 64TB (4 x 16TB drives)".
I use some other seagate 18tb drives on mine and it works fine, max volume size is something like 108TB
Thanks, that's good to know :)
Lol. Just bought one, will replace a 10TB in my rig :')
bought 1 of these at $450 and purchase another one at $400. potentially losing ~18tb of data is not fun
Does anyone have tried plugging their external HDD of 18TB to their LG OLED C1 and works? What's the limit of HDD does LG C1 support up to?
No idea of it will work on the TV, but i know 1 thing for sure. IF it does work on the tv, it will be speed limited as that tv only has usb 2.0 ports, whilst the hdd is usb 3.0
Are you sure? My LG B7 has a USB 3.0 port.
I could be wrong, I don't own one. I'm just basing it off of the specs I found online
LG decided to remove USB3 on the newer TVs
@Nom: No, it's not.
The theoretical maximum transfer rate of USB 2.0 is 48MB/s.
4K movies can peak over 100MB/s.
@Beyond: USB2 drives operate at around 30MB/s - nowhere close to 48MB/s.
4K movies can peak over 100Mb/s.
There are 8Mb in 1MB.
Even if you can get your 4K file up to 120Mb/s then that's just 15MB/s - about half the speed of USB2.
USB2 is more than fast enough to stream even high-bitrate 4K files 👍
@Nom: The consistent bolds on B weren't necessary, but I suppose it's still good that you made the effort to over-establish a point.
My line regarding the transfer rate started with "theoretical maximum", which isn't wrong. So the "nowhere close to…" part didn't exactly feel imperative to make your argument.
Yes, I understand the conversions, 1024 KB in 1MB etc…
I made the mistake of hastily writing my previous post at 5 am, where I improperly jumped to the conclusion that the bitrate for movies was KB as opposed to kb. I have countless "Linux ISOs", and I believe that comfort and familiarity made me briefly ignorant.
I look forward to potentially being pulled up by more individuals similar to yourself.
@Beyond: Hmm it is not about 1024 KB in 1 MB but 8 bits in 1 byte. When it comes to abbreviations, it is either KB/MB or Kb/Mb as in Kbps and Mbps. It is pretty rare to refer to bits outside the concept of bitrates in laymen's (as in daily, non-technical) context.
@truetypezk: I am well aware. It wouldn't have done me any good to try to quickly express some knowledge of the conversion charts by repeating the example Nom provided.
Since we're on the topic of abbreviations, how about we add in KiB and MiB, since you wrote that it was either or.
I went over these conversion charts countless times when I was studying in Tafe.
When defining layman's, I personally wouldn't have associated daily with it.
I didn't think I'd get another argumentative post after writing my last message. I use argumentative in the sense that you're listing facts/opinions/perspectives to get a point across, with zero correlation to temperament.
I look forward to potentially being pulled up by more individuals similar to yourself.
challenge accepted
Nobody has referred to movie bitrates as kilobits per second for about 2 decades. And nobody has referred to movie bitrates in kilobytes per second since ever.
My line regarding the transfer rate started with "theoretical maximum", which isn't wrong. So the "nowhere close to…"
480mbps is not 48MB/s. So your stated max theoretical is wrong. 480mbps = 60MB/s
Yes, I understand the conversions,
I am well aware. It wouldn't have done me any good to try to quickly express
Still seems like you’ve got the little B and the big b mixed up
So the "nowhere close to…" part didn't exactly feel imperative to make your argument.
Jumping from 30 to 48 is 60% more. Kinda significant.
@2025: Challenge - FAILED
Your wording and sentence structures aren't even close to the user Nom.
First line:
What is that even in response to? Besides the first, you quoted a relevant message before each of your other answers. Perhaps you should maintain some consistency in your format when trying to correct someone.
Second line:
Look up what the word theoretical means.
Third line:
I'm now being told that I've gotten the little and big b mixed up by someone who has made grammatical errors in every one of his sentences.
Fourth line:
Re-read the line you quoted me on a few more times, you still clearly don't understand what it means.
Thanks.
@Beyond: 480mbps (The max theoretical of USB2) is not 48 megabytes lmao
The max theoretical, again, is 60 megabytes (=480mbps) per second. It’s a shame you can’t edit a post that’s been replied to. Your mistake is forever on display. You mis represented the max theoretical. The number you quoted is grossly incorrect.
My first bit (bit is actually a homonym btw) is in reply to this:
I made the mistake of hastily writing my previous post at 5 am, where I improperly jumped to the conclusion that the bitrate for movies was KB as opposed to kb. I have countless "Linux ISOs", and I believe that comfort and familiarity made me briefly ignorant.
You got the K and M mixed up too, and I was pointing out movies have never been measured in KB, and 20 years ago they were Kb.
Alas, you’d rather be a grammar nazi than address your fundamental lack of understanding. You exhibit a complete lack of restraint from providing advice on subjects of which you have no comprehension of. Perhaps, before trying to call out a correct answer as wrong, you should take steps to ensure that your argument is correct
Mathematics is universal, English is not. Why are you defending your incorrect mathematical statements with attacks on language use? Is it because it is the only defence available to you? I’d argue it actually isn’t a defence, and a sign of desperation and deliberate diversion.
I look forward to potentially being pulled up by more individuals similar to yourself.
No problem at all, thanks for the extremely detailed appraisal !
After being disappointed with GRID Legends, & missing out on the Mario-red xbox controller i wanted, this deal makes it allll better :")
I ordered one.
Thanks for posting
Sounds like this drive would work with my Synology DiskStation DS220j 2 Bay NAS.?.
Would be comforting if someone could confirm this please before buying? Is the drive 3.5"?
Happy to do the pin trick.
This HDD is 3.5", and should work fine in your DS220j.
Note no 18 TB HDDs currently appear in Synology's Compatibility List for any model NAS. This is possibly due to Synology having not tested any to date.
grabbed 2 , thanks OP!
The last 18 TB drive I bought was a bit loud, spins up and makes a loud whirring sound all the time. Is this normal or did I get a dud?
this is the first 18tb drive i bought….but in theory it shouldn't make any more noise than your other drives
Yeah some drives are quite loud by default. I have some ironwolf pros and they are quite loud. I think most enterprise/data center drives are louder than consumer drives. What do you have?
It was a WD Elements just like this one, which I shucked and put in an exclosure. Makes the noise whenever it spins up at the start, and whenever the computer accesses it doing whatever it is that it does.
is this easy to shuck? what is the pin trick cos I'm not familiar with that
There's literally a youtube video posted under the first comment in this deal.
Why is it necessary to do the pin trick??
They tell you in the video
Down voting because of your lazyness when everything your asking is in the video in the first comment
@Homr: LOL, go home and watch it or watch on your mobile phone
you could also google and read (no need for sound)
@pinkybrain: if i wait to go home and watch and then buy, the deal will probably ended or sold out.
Anyway I bought, thanks OP
his avatar is homer simpson for a reason..
look for the link provided in earlier comments
The pin issue is only you're putting into a computer as computer PSUs supply the 3.3v on the SATA power connector. NAS appliances don't usually so aren't affected.
In my experience I have 2 from a batch of 5 that need the 3.3v pin masked even though they're all identical models so very drive dependent.
If I buy 4+ of these and the price is over $1000 AUD, do I have to pay import tax and will it be held up at customs? Or does Amazon take care of that?
no idea if amazon will "take care" of it
but from what other buyers on this post have said is they have spread it over numerous orders, i'm assuming that will do the trick.
There is no $1000 minimum any more. Everything is potentially subject to duty. The price including GST is good though.
Think it maxes out at 5PP so do 2 per order
There are these too, not osure what drives they would contain
https://www.amazon.com.au/Desktop-Password-Protection-Backup…
![[Prime] WD 18TB Elements Desktop External Hard Drive, $384.43 Delivered @ Amazon UK via Amazon AU](https://files.ozbargain.com.au/n/48/712348.jpg?h=c1296983)
I just ordered 8 disks from Amazon US to me at same address. 3 different orders tho.
Just FYI