Buying First Car

Hi everyone, I am planning on buying a 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer with less than 150,000 kms from a private seller.

It currently has no RWC but the seller said he could provide it for $500. Registration would also be supplied until Feb 2023.
I am planning on doing a pre-purchase car inspection prior to buying however I'm not sure how payment would work for the $500 RWC. I'm assuming I would have to do a deposit of $500 prior to purchasing the car but I do not want to be scammed.

If anyone had tips or any advice regarding this type of car or purchasing a first car would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Comments

  • +4

    To me this is screaming red flags.

    1. RWC costs under $100 to get done, why is he charging $500 to get it done, unless the car has issues making it difficult to get a RWC?
    2. How much are you paying for such an old car, that you'd consider paying an extra $500 just for RWC?
    3. Why are you buying such an old car as your first vehicle? I suggest get something cheap but newer, it would be safer and more reliable
    • +3

      RWC costs under $100

      In VIC it's about $200 just for the certificate. There could be known minor issues like brake pads or tyres so it's not outrageous.

      @OP, what I did (see if it works for you) was to get the pre-purchase done at the same place he's planning to get RWC before the seller pays for the RWC. So in my case, I chose an independent mechanic who also did RWC for a pre-purchase inspection from Autoguru. He mentioned the brake pads were worn and a few minor other issues I was okay with e.g. timing belt had about 5k left on it. He quoted the stuff needed for RWC and the seller was happy to approve so we finished the works and the seller transferred the car online before we drove off from the garage.

  • +3

    I am planning on buying a 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer with less than 150,000 kms from a private seller.
    It currently has no RWC but the seller said he could provide it for $500.

    a 23 year old car with no RWC unless you pay for it..

    And $500 for a car worth what? $2k?

    what was wrong with all the previous other car answers?
    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/726799

    • +3

      2000 shitters are now pulling 4000-5000…

  • RWC is way less than $500. Google how much it costs..

    • Also says it includes 3 months rego so combined with RWC in Vic, $500 is not far off the mark.

  • It currently has no RWC but the seller said he could provide it for $500. Registration would also be supplied until Feb 2023.

    Is the car currently unregistered? Is the $500 that he's asking for to cover BOTH the roadworthy AND three months' registration up to Feb 2023?

    (Roadworthy is around $150-$200 and three month's registration in Victoria is about $220).

  • +2

    Hey mate. Do not provide any deposit. Can you tell us a bit more?

    Budget?
    Manual or Auto?

    Look at toyota echos, should be able to get one for under 4k given current market conditions, 2k or less as well if you get lucky.

    Also when buying private, look for these things in the ad:

    How long ago it was posted —> if car has been up for a few days or weeks, either something is wrong with it or it is priced too high.
    Seller's profile —> has the seller got any other cars listed up? If they do, chances are they flip cars and/or are selling write-off repairs.
    Seller's reply game —> how long do they take to reply to you? Are they giving you one word responses, are they answering your valid questions

    Questions to ask a private seller:

    1. How long have you owned the car?
    2. Is it your car?
    3. what is your main reason for selling?
    4. has it been serviced and if so, do you have any history or can I speak to your mechanic? —> if they say I serviced it myself, walk away unless you know how to inspect cars.
      etc.

    its important you weed out the bad/scammy sellers but at the same time you need to look at cars in person to buy them so its best if you search from most recent and get there quick (within a few hours) to make sure you get a good deal.

  • +3

    Go for honda or toyota if you want to buy anything over 10 or 15 years old

    • Honda's can be expensive, e.g. my 2009 Accord had iridium sparkplugs which cost about $100 each, so $400 there plus brake fluid goes through the front bumper, behind the intercooler, or something weird like that so that's $200+ with labour. They don't have reliability issues per se but maintenance can be a pain.

      • iridium sparkplugs typically cost 15-30, you got ripped off if you paid 100 each.

        • not Accord's. It was peak COVID blah… blah… but even now they're at least $50 or maybe I am missing something else.

    • +4

      Same age lancer will be OK.

    • +1

      honda or toyota

      Probably gone around the globe twice for the price of a Lancer.

  • So … a 1999 Lancer that appears to be unregistered? Drop $500 to "maybe" get an RWC and registration sorted out?

    Let's just assume this is all on the up, but for whatever reason the car cannot pass RWC and be registered … what happens then?

    Ah, don't worry about, probably all OK. Get a price from your seller for a full year's rego and pay that upfront as well.

  • Don’t buy the car unless it has RWC. Do not pay anything to get the RWC completed. If the seller wants a deposit prior to getting the RWC offer an amount you’re happy to lose, maybe $100.

    • A RWC doesn't mean a car isn't a lemon though

      • Yes it’s true a car with an RWC can blow up soon after buying, but without it could be up for even more stuff to actually get it registered again let alone being reliable.

  • What happened to the other car you were also going to buy?

  • Post to Ozbargain prepare for a reaming.

    You have 3 options really.

    1. Toyota Corolla
    2. Toyota Camry
    3. Toyota Yaris.
      Maybe if you want a bit more oompf go a Subaru

    Choose wisely.
    When my Subaru got to 20 years of age it felt like it was about to fall apart.
    A 1999 Mitsubishi is a rust bucket

  • +1

    but I do not want to be scammed.

    Then don't give this guy $500 because you won't get the car nor see your money again.

  • +1

    extra $500 just for RWC

    could be that it needs a couple of things to get the RWC - i.e couple of tyres, or a new bonut

  • +1

    That era of Lancer is very very basic. No safety features really, crap interior, although they are pretty fun to drive in manual. I would look for something newer, preferably from Honda as even the base models are just nicer cars.

    • might want to avoid those came with cvt timebomb

  • I have driven 1998 version for 10 years, second hand, clock around 250k then sold it and bought a new 2010 version, which I driven for 12 years, also clocked 200k, very basic car and fun drive-in manual and only regular service as maintaining cost.

    Compared to Honda/Mazda in that era, its value for money. Still much better exterior look than Toyoda.

    Based on that, 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer with less than 150,000. Not bad, as long as its well maintained.

    • It’s also somewhat counterintuitive, it ultra low kms can mean it’s not driven enough to keep seals and hoses etc in good condition. If it’s been driven regularly in the last few years should be fine, but if it’s been sitting barely used for the last few years starting to drive it more often can make some of those age related issues appear.

      • True but my old man's only driven like 50k which bought in 2010 as well and only drives to the shops lol
        And I probably driven few times Bris to Adl. You still rather buy mine instead of his if there is a chance?

        It's all about how much regular servicing that owner does. Always good to check the service history, less service could be either careless owner or fixed written off car.

        • 50k in 10 years is great for interior condition, but drivetrain probably hasn’t been used enough, nor got up to good operating temperatures often enough. There’s a happy medium somewhere around 10k per year. I’d rather not buy something with high kms either but for different reasons related to wear and tear on interior, worn suspension parts etc.

          If the car was driven regularly in its first years then sat unused in the last couple of years it’s not good. Something like a deceased estate vehicle that has taken 2-3 years to sell while sitting unused is possibly not a great buy unless you are prepared to replace items that could perish.

          Yes, they can be good but there can be issues. I had a friend who bought a very low km vehicle ‘only driven to church on sundays’ and when she started driving it regularly 2 radiator hoses let go and there were another couple of minor issues as well.

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