Pretty self-explanatory. Looks like an okay dual-antenna wireless-N router with 4 10/100 ethernet ports. Note that it is not a modem.
D-Link product page: http://www.dlink.com.au/products/?pid=565
Seems to be in-stock online and in most stores.
Cheaper than all shopbot listings: http://www.shopbot.com.au/pp-d-link-dir-615-price-80279.html
i think unity1 is talking about step 4 in the installation instructions
No was talking about step 2
OK. The directions mentioned there were 2 files but we only needed to download 1. I'll give it a try and see how I go. That's why I bought 2 because I knew I'd stuff one up.
updating to the lastest firmware from dlink makes no difference since you will be overwriting it with ddwrt anyways
I was just at Harvey Norman at bondi junction, they have plenty in Stock.
After wasting 3hrs with trial and error, I think I've found the solution for "client bridge" (not repeater bridge).
I followed the advice from these two forum threads:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=709354
http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=143215
Basically I used the previous build (one down from the latest, build 14896) of the firmware for the E3, even though I've got an E4 because apparently they're almost identical. And it quite simply worked after following the tutorial (http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Client_Bridged), which I tried over and over again with the recommended firmware to no success.
I'm no expert here so use at your own risk (of losing a massive $22), but it worked for me.
Oh man, I've never been so happy to see a test page come out of my ethernet only printer.
NOTE: The previously mentioned build 14896 IS the one previous to the latest build 15778 for the E3. Just thought I should make that clear.
Thanks for the tip - I tried it quickly the other day and it could see my main AP and connect but not pass any data through… I had assumed I had munted the config somehow. Will try a downgrade ;)
I should just note that I reflashed to Dlink firmware first before flashing to the older build. The reason for that is I couldn't find that code in the hex editor for the ddwrt-to-ddwrt upgrade firmware, but I could in the factory-to-ddwrt firmware file.
I couldn't either so I just flashed without editing ddwrt e4 -> ddwrt e3 and it worked
Thinking out loud here to make sure I have it right - and to state some elements that might be too basic for some, but which it took me a little time to get my head around.
Note the difference here in Danman's posts between "Client Bridge mode" and "Client mode" [NB: I am using the definition of these terms as defined/used within www.dd-wrt.com ]
Danman is clearly stating that he has found the steps he outlines to be necessary specifically to set up "Client Bridge mode" on his Dir-615 E4. This is particularly what he needs so that computers connecting via his primary wireless router are able to talk to the printer which is plugged in via ethernet to his DIR-615 E4 which is the secondary router.
"Client mode" is a simpler or more basic form in which all you are achieving is providing internet access to the devices plugged into the DIR-615 secondary router. Devices on either end of the wifi bridge cannot directly see nor make network connections with devices on the other end of the wifi bridge.
Once installed the DD-WRT firmware offers a choice to configure Wireless mode in any one of six modes:-
- AP
- Client
- Client Bridge (routed)
- Adhoc
- WDS Station
- WDS AP
The picture at the top of the "Client Bridge mode" configuration page actually reflects the physical set-up for both "Client mode" and "Client Bridged mode".
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Client_Bridged
In "Client mode" two separate networks are sharing operating however the secondary router is providing internet access to the devices connected to it. Using the suggested configuration it is acting as Gateway and DHCP for a network in the 192.168.2.x range.
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Client_Mode
In "Client Bridge mode" there is one network in the 192.168.1.x range and the primary router is the Gateway and DHCP for all devices - regardless of which end of the wifi bridge they are connecting to. Therefore they can see each other, connect, share files, tasks, etc.
I primarily bought my three DIR-615 E4's yesterday in order to provide internet to ethernet-only entertainment devices: my Soniq 32" SmartTV, plus the three Sony BDP-S185 BluRay/smart-media-players I bought a few weeks ago in the TheGoodGuys $44 deal. I was initially intending to set the three secondary routers in "Client mode" and have been chasing config details for that - however they will be more versatile for future options if I configure them to "Client Bridge mode" now. Also I want to do this process once and then happily forget most of the how-to-do-it process.
As I will be using multiple secondary routers I will limit the MAC address that each can connect to to only the MAC address of the primary router.
… so do I have anything wrong here yet.
What has been the experience of others - positive or negative - of using different dd-wrt firmware versions for either "Client Bridge mode" or for "Client mode"??? (Please make sure you state which model(s) of DIR-615 you have been lucky or unlucky with and also how far you get before hitting problems…)
eg. Has anyone been able to get "Client Bridge mode" to work on an E4 using the latest DD-WRT firmware 15778 build?
Or has anyone else had success as per Danman's (and forum links) by using the earlier 14896 build?
I'm not bridging, so I can't help you specifically, but firmware 15778 (13 Dec 2010) is not the latest build; 19519 (20 Jul 2012) is. (Yes, the router database seems to be well out of date when it comes to versions. Either that or I've misunderstood the versioning system :)
You can get the latest version (for E4) here:
ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/2012/07-2…
I found this at the forum link below, which may be where you also want to put your questions if the latest firmware is no help.
Yeah, this is the first time I've used DD-WRT so I just assumed the database was up to date. I'm still not sure which is the best to use but for now I'm not going to fix anything that ain't broke.
Yes I think you've got it right, client mode means each of the secondary routers are on a different subnet and the devices connected to one subnet will not talk to the other. That was one of the methods I tried.
Client bridge will all be on the same subnet and the primary router is the DHCP server for all devices. I don't think you'll need to be limiting MAC addresses unless you want it to be a repeater bridge. Because as a client, it's wireless function will be used only to talk to the primary router and it will not serve as a wireless AP, so there will be no conflicts, if that's what you're worried about. Just assign 192.168.1.1 to the primary router and 192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.3 to the secondary routers. That's the setup I have because I actually have another router wired to the primary to create a wireless G only network.
All good now with my set-up.
I'm using 3 DIR-615 E4's. Primary has 15778 build and is in "AP mode", and the other two have 14896 builds and are in "Client Bridge mode".
The only reason that I used 15778 on the primary is that that was the first of the three that I installed on, and I did so before I noted/comprehended suggestions here about build 14896.
Reason I am using MAC filter is so that secondary #1 only tries to connect to the primary and not to secondary #2.
On all of there builds I used the factory to dd-wrt files and first edited the code as specidied earlier. To edit I used HxD however never having heard of it before I chose to download it from CNet - given I have never had a problem with software that I have downloaded from them. http://download.cnet.com/HxD-Hex-Editor/3000-2352_4-10891068…
[HxD doesn't appear to be hosted on MajorGeeks.com - which is where I first looked because I trust their software even more.]
Can someone just post the direct links to the firmwares needed to downloaded to flash this router and get a client bridge working please?
http://dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database
This link is in the installation guide for each router.
I picked up one of these last night and once upgraded to dd-wrt I have to say it's bloody fantastic for the price. Highly recommended!
You guys reckon, if I get one of these, I can turn my tv into a SMART one?
Basically I have a Sony CX520 which requires a Sony Wireless USB adapter to watch TV. I was thinking of getting one of these routers, dd-wrt-ing it and connecting an ethernet cable from the router to the TV…
Thoughts?
Yes, that's exactly what I've done with my Samsung TV which also requires their proprietary wireless USB adapter ($80 or something ridiculous like that) or a cable connection. I've also got my Ethernet printer connected at the same time.
I've got the DIR-615 sitting behind the TV and it's bridged wirelessly to the primary router; providing a network connection through it's LAN ports (ie client bridge). And its operation is so far so good.
Just picked up mine from HN North Ryde (E4, v5.10). They had multiple boxes of the router all lined up on the counter with their paperwork awaiting collection. OzBargain strikes again?
Greensborough HN in Melbourne still have 6 on the shelf if anyone is after one
Don't buy it, it is useless, only a 10/100mbps switch, you should get gigabit
Show me a gigabit wifi router for $22?
Got one today from HN Nunawading.
Totally useless staff and dreadful service. Despite it being in a full-page ad in today's Herald Sun newspaper no-one knew about it. One person said "it's in that half of the store" which really pinpointed it and another guy just pointed me to the shelf where all the models are and said to look for it there. I eventually found them and pointed them out to the staff (who didn't even say thank you). They are on the floor (literally!). No signage. No correct pricing on box.
So if you want one in Nunawading, go to where the rest of the wireless routers are (back wall), and look on the floor for the boxes with "Enhanced" written across the bottom. Look on the side of the box for DIR-615. They're priced at 139.95 but scan at 22.00. Seemed to be over a dozen there, all E4 FW5.10.
There's slightly newer firmware on the website (http://www.dlink.com.au/tech/Download/download.aspx?product=…) so be sure to grab that and install before configuring if not doing DD-WRT.
Despite trying both the new ddwrt firmware(which is 2012) and the old one in the router database and using hex editor to match the hardware ID (which ends with 01 on the e4 version), I could not get it flashed through the dlink interface (keep saying it is the wrong firmware) I even tried the emergency interface but no help either, which also caused the router to become bricked ( LAN is not active, power button got no light).
Please help me with the issue. If anyone have their dd wrt firmware to work using dlink interface, please send my by pm me. Appreciate your help a lot.
Did you give it some time after hitting upload in the emergency interface? When I did it, it looked like it was unresponsive, I just had to wait a while, hope you didn't interrupt it as it was loading. In any case, can you still access the emergency interface?
I left it like 30 mins after I hit uploaded. After that, I watched for any activities on the router (lights flashing) but nothing there. I cannot get into the emergency interface now but got a spare one to try something else.
Did you get it flashed successfully? If so, would you mind sharing your experience?
The first time I used the factory-to-ddwrt build 15778 (router database) through the d-link interface. Hardware ID was edited to 01 on that first attempt which went through successfully.
When I decided to use build 14896 for E3 hardware (because 15778 wouldn't work with client bridge), I couldn't find the hardware ID in the ddwrt-to-ddwrt file but I could in the factory-to-ddwrt file.
So I restored to dlink firmware from their website through the emergency interface and once again flashed to ddwrt (build 14896) through the dlink interface after changing the hardware ID to 01.
So no lights at all even after a cold restart?
EDIT: nvm
How to do a cold restart? Is it the way that you put your router into the emergency interface?
Anyway, would you mind sending me your version of dd-wrt that is successfully flashed onto the router?I will pm you my email address if you can. Appreciate your help a lot mate.
I simply mean: Have you tried turning it off and on again?
Both of these worked for me through the dlink interface (hardware ID edited each time)
Build 15778
http://dd-wrt.com/routerdb/de/download/D-Link/DIR-615/E4/dir…
Build 14896 listed for E3
http://dd-wrt.com/routerdb/de/download/D-Link/DIR-615/E3/dir…
Ended up using 14896 because E3 is apparently almost identical and it didn't have issues with client bridge.
Can you give the one which you have edited the hardware version in case I have done the editing things wrong?
And from what I read, you just flashed via the D-link official interface right?
Here's the two .bin files (build 14896 and 15778) with modified hardware IDs, make sure the router you have is indeed revision E4, use at your own risk:
http://www.mediafire.com/?11na98kiifjgwe1
Yes I did use the dlink interface in Tools>Firmware.
I wouldn't recommend using build 15778 if you plan on setting it up in client bridge mode because I couldn't get it to work with that build, but it is the one listed for revision E4 in the firmware database.
As previously mentioned by another user, this may not be the latest build available, they are just the ones that I successfully used. Tell us how it goes.
Finally I could get it to work. Thanks to your files and thanks a lot for your help Dan_, wireless bridge is working properly using the build 14896. I guess I messed up with the hex editor.
Final question, have you tried getting back to D-link firmware? Is it just as simple as downloading the latest D-link firmware for E4 version and flash it through the DD-WRT interface or you have to use HEX editor again?
Appreciate your help a lot, I was just about to return the router for the refund had it not been for your help.
I think you don't need to edit the hardware ID anymore once you already flashed ddwrt and want to flash another ddwrt-to-ddwrt firmware. For anyone still struggle to get this router working in client bridge mode out there, I could not make it work using Dan's firmware version. In hindsight, it could have been because I did not reboot the router after making the settings changed. I ended up using the newer firmware previously posted in this thread from ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/2012/07-2… and follow the instructions from http://itechmore.com/articles/2011/09/20/dd-wrt-tutorial-how…. Good luck. It's a relief that it finally working.
Thanks for the answer.
How about DD-WRT to the original D-Link firmware?
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/D-Link_DIR-615_rev_E3#H…
For anyone still struggle to get this router working in client bridge mode out there, I could not make it work using Dan's firmware version. In hindsight, it could have been because I did not reboot the router after making the settings changed.
If you used build 15778, I mentioned that neither I nor anyone else seems to be able to get 15778 to work with client bridge mode. However, if you were using 14896, then I'm not sure what went wrong, but I'm glad you got it to work with a later version. Might give it a go if I need to update.
I am using the 14896 since my main reason for buying this modem is to use it as wireless bridge. That worked perfectly fine for me at the moment and thank you very much for helping to get to that.
My concern is that in the future, for some reasons, I want to go back to the original D-Link firmware, can I just flash it through the DD-WRT interface using the downloaded one from Dlink website or do I need to edit it further to match the hardware ID using the HEX editor?
Thanks for your help.
Short answer:
To restore the D-Link firmware, you would use the router's "Emergency Room" Web interface, and not the DD-WRT interface. And no, you don't need to edit it further.
Long answer:
The instructions for returning to a D-Link firmware are listed at the end of the DD-WRT Installation Instruction pages. For example, for the E3 and E4:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/D-Link_DIR-615_rev_E3 (See "How to restore to factory firmware")
The instructions on that web page aren't very clear, so try this page if you need more detail:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=13599.0 (See "How do I restore the original D-Link factory firmware?"
Also, on the very unlikely (but still possible) chance that D-Link may one day go under and their website disappear, I'd download the D-Link firmware now and store it away. (http://support.dlink.com.au/Default.asp)
I used your modified 14896 build for the E4 revision (Thanks, Dan, you have been very helpful). I managed to get it work if I hard coded the IP address, but I couldn't get DHCP working for some reason.
DHCP will be automatically disabled in client bridge mode as the primary router issues the IP addresses.
Tried to buy a couple more today at HN Oxley where I bought 3 last week. Would now only offer minimum $37…! Price on website now back to the price they are marked at: $139.95
Maybe somone will be kind enough to upload or PM a recept then for those of us who missed out?…please
In case it helps anyone - I went through the process discussed earlier to make mine run as a client bridge in dd-wrt with a fair level of success (but I found it became unstable after a while).
I'm now running Gargoyle on it (an OpenWRT-based firmware) with better results.
YMMV depending which revision you end up with (Mine is E4)
With the factory E4 firmware on my E4, does anyone know how to select the wireless speed? The 'Transmission Rate' is missing under the 'Manual Wireless Network Setup' section. However, I can see it in versions B2 and C2 manuals I downloaded from D-Link. I've tried the custom DD-WRT firmware but still no luck.
No it's got nothing to do with the router per se.
You download two firmwares - one from DLink and one from DD-WRT. Just need to make sure the DD-WRT firmware has the same ID as the DLink version - by comparing the last lines of each in a hex editor.