Why is it you can't buy a subwoofer for cheap?

You often see these sorts of deals on here: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/130337 $349 for a name brand 5.1 piece set. That would make the subwoofer in it a fraction of the price right like 50 to 100 bucks. But it is impossible to find a name brand sub around this price find.why is that?I know I could but the set, keep the sub and flood the other parts off, but I still wonder why arent there more subwoofer specials around?

Comments

  • +1

    People who go out to buy a sub want one that is actually good. People who buy a set often don't know/care.

    Which means:

    1: You can package cheap rubbish in the set but you won't be able to sell such a product individually.

    2: The market will bear a higher cost for individual components.

  • HTIB subwoofers can be passive, and rely on the amp to provide power. Regular subs will have mains cord.
    But i havent any real experience with anything.

  • As Nowlan said…..
    Get an Active Sub. Much better bass and worth the extra dough…. If you have a decent amp, get decent speakers as well….

  • I recently moved from USA to Australia, and I am missing my sub I had in USA.

    I purchased this one from Amazon for $89 on sale at Black Friday when I was in USA. Its a great sub.

    I have noticed they regularly put it up on sale for $89, If you can get it shipped here for $30-40, it will still be a good deal.

    • looks pretty good, but too bad just tried they don't ship it to au.

      • http://myusa.com If you have an AMEX card you can get an account for free.

        We use it a fair bit, especially for stuff the USA shops won't ship overseas.

        Cheers

        • Thanks for the info;

          Myusa.com comes up with a server error; I think the site is:

          http://www.myus.com/en/off-menu/custom-landing-pages/amexint…

          Have always wanted to order from best buy; will try is you are saying its reliable.

          Cheers

        • yea, sorry about the URL error. myus.com is correct.

          I took up AMEX's offer for a free account about 3 years ago. Have probably used them 6 times since then, mostly for computer stuff and clothing. Delivery in the US from the store to myus.com address is often free. No complaints to date, which is what I'd expect of any deal inspired by AMEX.

    • Just remember that sub is 110V and will not work without a transformer in Australia. It's rarely recommended to go that route, better off looking at Amazon.co.uk or other european ones that use 230V like us.

  • Only real option I've found is wait till JB has a 20% off speaker sale, subs are usually included in the deal and you can get a good sub for a bit less.

  • +1

    Grays On-line have top shelf audio gear on sale periodically and you can get great bargains…they often list individual subwoofers and speakers, also have you tried eBay? Just a thought.

  • I was in the same boat five years ago. Ended up finding an almost-new Nova brand sub at my local Cash Converters for $120. Looked good but the guy there admitted it was a mystery brand. So what the hell's a Nova Sub-80?
    It's actually the Earthquake Sub-80, rebranded for export markets.

    If I were in the same position again, and there was a lack of "brand name" deals, I'd buy something like this.

    If that's not enough, there's more speakers here.

    Haven't heard their subs, but as far as service and delivery? I have bought from them 18 months ago and highly recommend.

  • +1

    Hey OP, still without a sub? Want an even cheaper one?

    How about this brand new Sony 10" for $79, or the 12" for $99? Doubt they're audiophile quality, but they're Sony powered subs at least.

    Prices include delivery at the moment too — not bad for a heavy item.

  • How would any of this stuff stack up to the sub i have in my Creative T3 Gigaworks 2.1 system? The only issue I can hear with mine is there may be a lack of mids as the full range speakers are quite small.

    • Basically, accuracy and response vs lower Hz at higher volumes.

      The T3 sub looks to be a tricky bit of gear with three small drivers. I dunno if they intended those 6.5" sub drivers for mid frequency work, as most folks would have the sub in a neutral imaging area (like under a desk etc). But the reviews I've seen for them don't mention sonic holes, and seem to agree that it's very well integrated.

      It should be tighter and more responsive than even an 8" sub. 10-15" have increasing orders of LFE ability (thunder/rumble etc) at (generally, depending on amp, loading and other factors) greater capacity for dB and lower frequencies.

    • So to address your mids concern, unless there's a fault with one of those 6.5" sub drivers or the crossover circuit, it's most likely an equalisation fix. Also try raising the sub to a higher position to hear if that makes a difference.

      If you don't trust your ears, there's a vast selection of calibration discs (or image files) floating around…

      • I recently moved the sub from the floor behind the sofa to behind the TV and I did notice a little difference as it is about 1.2m off the floor. I am very tight on space atm so I don't have much flexibility (part of the reason I bought a 2.1 system) but that will change soon.

        • Quoting myself:

          But the reviews I've seen for them don't mention sonic holes, and seem to agree that it's very well integrated.

          Just saw the PCMag review. They do make a point of it lacking mids.

          "Audiophiles who prefer a more balanced response might not appreciate the overwhelming bass; and they might take issue with the satellite speakers, which, despite sounding somewhat crisp, fail to do justice to the high-mid frequencies that provide clarity for vocals and guitar parts. The end result is a sound that seems very bright, its brightness accompanied by a tremendous low end."

  • So I'm using the Sony W3000 that mcmonte posted the other day. Sounds amazing over the passive one that came with my Pioneer HTP072 (World of difference).

    I was wondering if anyone knows what level of Cut Off Frequency I should use? I can select between 50Hz-200Hz. Apparantly, according to the manual it says the smaller speakers you have (Pioneer HTP072 speakers) you should use higher frequencies like 200Hz. Whereas, larger speakers should use lower frequencies. Is that right?

    • That makes sense, as the larger the main speakers the less you need to rely on the sub for mids

    • I've been reading that you should set it to max and let the receiver handle the crossover. This is for Yamaha though…

      • For the HTP-072, it will be running the VSX-324 AVR. There will be crossover circuitry built in for the sub terminals. Set the Sony to 200Hz and it should only receive what was intended for the passive sub.

        Downside, the Sony will dominate because it's more powerful (I've just seen the HTP-072 sats, they're very small). So placement, sub volume, equalisation AND…just for fun, try stuffing the rear port with something soft. Several reports of better sound with this simple trick.

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