I would like to have fellow OZB members suggestion on using fuel for my 1997 Mitsubishi Magna Executive TF 2.4L. It has 2,00,000+ km on odometer reading.
One important point is, I don't drive often, 3-4 times a week (max 150 km per week). I reside in ACT.
That's discussion about optimization. Well, I wanted to know about fuel brand, % of ethanol etc for such an old car.
The time it took you to post this negated any possible reduction in fuel cost.
Try unleaded. Sold at participating fuel retailers near you.
There is E10 Unleaded too, what is that?
Do you even Google?
Guys, I just want an expert opinion. I have tried to Google a bit but got confused. I don't see any standard unleaded, all I see is E10.
NB: New car owner.
Thats all you need to use, unless you have extra cash for premium.
Since I drive not so often (sometimes week pass by), would not ethanol evaporate completely, making E10 essential just a standard unleaded? I don't need ethanol, is there standard unleaded?
Pardon my ignorance on this topic.
http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/the-dummys-guide-to-fuels…
Have a read mate. Choose what suits you best. 2.4L is very thirsty. Get your budget right.
The title fits my knowledge! :)
It states in this article that Standard Unleaded was to be replaced by E10 in 2011, so that is why Standard Unleaded is nowhere to be found? - http://www.carsguide.com.au/news-and-reviews/car-news/can_i_…
And could you please suggest engine capacity for my second car which won't be as thirsty as 2.4L?
err find a car with smaller capacity than 2.4?
what the hell
do you need help tying your shoe laces?
@bargainaus: If you don't drive very often, avoid E10 as a rule. It absorbs more water and that will condense in your petrol tank every night, generate acids, and rust the system every day, more so when you are not using it. And every time you do, the water will mix back into the fuel where it will get sucked into the rest of the fuel system and (gradually) begin to cause all kinds of other problems that will choke your car and make it use more fuel forever more.
Use the manufacturer's recommended fuel. BP is one of the better choices, as is a service station with new, well maintained tanks. (not old ones full of condensation, rust and other debris)
sell the car and buy a bicycle.
a bus/train pass is better
bicycle requires OP to be able to ride a bike…that shit is hard y0
i had ruled out bus/train as cost is clearly an issue.
a Gumtreed bike should only be max $20.
Here's a guide too: http://www.wikihow.com/Ride-a-Bicycle
protip
magnas are shit
2.4 magnas are worse
feed it 91 or e10, it really doesnt matter because magnas are shit
buying anything else is a step up
if you want to save petrol, buy something smaller than 2.4, DO NOT buying anything larger than 2.4
service it if you want to, it really doesnt matter because magnas are shit
but if you want to service it (dunno why you would) use the shittiest $12,95 20w50 rubbish oil on special, because magnas are shit
Just the kind of advice I expected, Thanks. Its either U91 or E10, but I think I'll buy U91.
If it gives you comfort, I serviced it recently by this deal - http://www.groupon.com.au/deals/dealbank_en_au/mit-automotiv… ; because I heard Magna's are shit! :)
I'm confused.
Earlier you said you never see U91 in, presumably, ACT. Yet now above you think you'll buy U91?
Be that as it may, sure, if you find it, use U91.
Essentially, E10 gives your motor less bang for your buck than U91. In other words, for the very minimal (usually) extra cost of U91 over E10, you'll travel further on a full tank of U10 than E10.
I looked for "standard unleaded", did not know it is named as U91! Now I see that Caltex has the U91 and Woolworths-Caltex has E10.
Sorry to say you are having the worst car as it uses to drink petrol like anything especially the aged one. I had the similar one some years ago, lucky me I managed to sell it to the used car dealer . Bought a Toyata Yaris, no looking back thereafter.
First car for a postgraduate uni student, is this Magna really that bad?!
How many litres consumed per 100 km on your Yaris?
Thirst: 5.7L/100km, 134g/km CO2 (1.3 manual); 5.8L/100km, 137g/km CO2 (1.5 manual); 6.3L/100km, 147g/km CO2 (1.3 and 1.5 auto)
Varun, all went atop my head…
Kids these days are not very bright…
They drive amoung us.
:) I understood the mileage and CO2 emissions, but what's with 1.3 Manual and the rest? I just drive a Auto. What am I missing?
Just like your 2.4, this is 1.3. Manual is the transmission type.
Read about transmissions:
Thanks! Just adding an "L" after the digits would have helped :) I know about Transmission types.
I can't work out if this is a joke post or not
@tomclancy: Without the one-time pad used to create these posts, I think we are all destined to encounter extreme difficulty
If you don't drive much then it doesn't make much difference what it's fuel economy is, as long as it's not literally leaking. An ok TF would have cost ~$3k, vs a $6k yaris. That extra money buys a lot of petrol.
TF magna's take U91, they weren't designed to run e10 so avoid that as much as you can.
Thanks, I'll stick with U91 only. I see that U91 is available at Caltex service stations.
I bought this TF Magna for 1100$ + Rego, with the Timing belt just been changed (True OZB spirit I say!). But I'll definitely buy a Japanese compact car next time (Toyota/Honda/Mazda), though I plan to drive this Magna for at least 2-3 years.
If a yaris is doing 6L/100kms and the magna is 12L/100kms then every 10,000kms costs an extra $1,000 in fuel. That purchase price difference could be eaten up in no time if the kms are medium-to-high
Sure if the km's are high, as per OP 150km a week will take 5 years till the costs get close to balancing out. 5 years of not driving a yaris sounds good to me.
5 years of not driving a yaris sounds good to me
Fair call. Although we rented a Yaris on holidays once… best 4wd we ever had!
I thought this may have been a post from April 1st. Like - sort of a very poor joke.
Maybe it was and the poster thought it was the first?
Accolades to all those who have posted and really tried to provide easy to understand
information to help a car owner who really should be posting just once a year. April 1st!!!
Trade the car in for a new cheaper to run vehicle. Insurance should be cheaper with a newer vehicle and the cost to run should be cheaper depending on the new vehicle of choice.
Sure running costs will be cheaper, but no way insurance would be. The OP's car cost $1,100 to buy. If he bothered to even insure it (I wouldn't) then the insurance cost would be at least half that of a car that costs ten times more.
And what you haven't factored in is the higher depreciation on a newer car. If you aren't thinking depreciation is a real cost then you should hand in your OzBargain licence.
I have 3rd party property damage, and what comes with the REGO (CTPI). Did not find any reason to go for comprehensive :)
Put some injector cleaner in with your next fuel fill as it will improve economy. Don't use E10 if leaving the car idle for more then a few days/week. Drive the car into the ground.
Can you suggest a cheaper injector cleaner kit? And what do you mean 'drive the car into ground'?
Whirlpool has some positive things to say about Caltex Techron 5000 for injector cleaning, but unless your car is running rough I wouldn't bother.
Run it into the ground = drive it till it dies, don't worry about resale.
I usually use the Valvoline injector cleaner, you add it to your fuel tank before you fill up. It's about $10 dollars for a bottle. I usually use one every oil change or two to keep the fuel system clean.
If things are running rough, then the bottle injector cleaner probably won't do anything anyway, ie. too late.
Caltex Techron 5000, it's only sold at Caltex service stations (NOT the Caltex/Woolies co-branded ones!). Costs about $15 a bottle but it's the only one I'll use in my car.
Well used to use, I run a dedicated LPG car now so I have no use for it anymore.
If your car is using too much fuel, it probably needs new oxygen sensors… but if you know nothing about cars, it's probably going to be a bit too hard to do that yourself (you'll need all the gear - jack, chassis stands, the right spanners etc). Oh and a clean of the throttle body / plenum, but I'm not familiar with your particular model. :)
Those above would probably cost a bit if done through a mechanic, so I'd only bother if you can do it yourself… just run the car into the ground like the rest are saying :)
Also, don't use E10!!!!!! Still with regular 91 only.
Can't be serious
Not sure if OP is trolling.
Logic would say buy the cheapest fuel possible that is suitable for your car. If you're worried about your theory of ethanol evaporating over a week…. put in less petrol = less ethanol evaporating and just fill up whenever you need to.
If you want fuel economy, buy a car with a smaller engine displacement. 1.3L instead of your 2.4L.
I think typing all this up just gave me cancer. You're a post grad student as well. How'd you get your degree?
post grad uni student? really…
read here: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/139842