Auto Repair Shop Ripping Me off?

Hi,

Just wondering if there are any regulations to stop this. I think my local auto service center is ripping me off.

Over the past year, my car experience this problem. I then got the autorepair to check the problem and they stated that 2 car parts need to be replaced. I got them to replace it which costs over $300. Few months later (which is yesterday), the problem re-occured, i went back, they scratched their heads and they said ANOTHER part needs to be replaced which costs another $270. Today, the problem occurred again! So I keep replacing these parts and the problems still there. I don't know if:
(1) they even replaced the part because im car illiterate or
(2) whether the part is actually the cause of problem in first place.
Dont get me wrong. Hey its entirely possible that these 3 parts are the root causes but I just cant fork out money every single time like this where they would just 'say' this part is broken without taking any responsibility in ensuring that it IS ACTUALLY broken.

TLDR: Car has problem, autorepair quote parts are broken, They replace part, problem re-occurs, autorepair quote another park is broken, they replace part again. On going ~

BACKGROUND:
Car: 2002 model Toyota camry V6
The problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSXO2j_cCww
First fix: Replace EGR Valve $160. Dated 21/8/14
Second fix: Replace Air Flow Meter Sensor $180. Dated 27/8/14
Third fix (current): Fix engine Dizz, changed engine oil & oil filter $270. Dated 29/11/14

A total of $610 with the problem still thereā€¦

Comments

  • +1

    Take it to another repairer and ask if there's a problem with the car and get a quote, but dont say what the problem is from what you were told. If you don't trust this repairer, go somewhere else.

    • Yes that is what I'm planning to do. Should I do something about what has happened with first, second, third fixes though?

  • Where in Sydney are you !?

    I know a responsible ethical mechanic ( didn't know they excisted before I met him )

    Contact me if interested to know about him post code 2042 here

  • from the looks of what they replace, is ur car missing fire or doesn't had a smooth idle?

    • At first I thought misfire, did some research and shows that misfiring also has same symptons to what I have but… not sure now. :(

  • id recommend getting it checked at another reputable mechanic

  • On a modern car it can sometimes be hard to find the source of a problem. A scanner will only tell you what is not working. That may or may not be the source of the problem. That is where knowledge comes in. Go to a workshop that has someone who has been around the block before. Look for a good range of cars there, and definitely don't go for the cheapest option. Look for someone who is VAAC (in Vic) or IAME certified. They have access to databases and hotlines that others do not.

  • -5

    your car is 12 years old. wear and tear is a fact of life. perhaps it's time buy a new car?

    • LOL!! Won't neg you, but that's a terribad comment.

  • many a year ago my falcon was spluttering all the time, took it to automasters they said new fuel pump, $300 later.
    3 days later still spluttering, they swapped over the fuel pump, 3 days later the problems comes back, I take it back and the twat says he can't swap it over anymore, I drove the car to the dealership, 5 minutes later he connects it up to his computer, diagnosis, faulty map sensor, $77.00 to fix, I will never ever take my car to an Ultra tune, Automaster or any other cowboy.

    My advice, drive it to toyota, tell him to hook it up and find out exactly the problem.

  • +1

    There is no "regulation" to prevent this.

    You've basically entrusted your vehicle to the knowledge of your mechanic/workshop and they have repaired it to the best of their (lack of?) ability. No workshop wants a comeback (of the bad kind). If they were going to rip you, there are more efficient/subtle ways of doing it.

    Cut your losses now and have someone else, or a Toyota dealer, look at it. You have more power as a customer when it comes to dealing with large dealerships. The labour rates are higher, but you can also hold them to their word.

  • What are your symptoms OP?

    • Hello, the symptons are shown on the original post in the youtube link. To be more descriptive,
      I have noticed that this problem has higher probability of occurring (say 80%) when I continually press on my accelerator for a long time, ie at long upward sloping tunnels without any traffic lights. Doesnt happen every single time though. This problem disappears when when I turn off the engine and wait for a long time, ie 1-2 hrs.

      • I'd be getting your coil packs tested, in my experience that's the usual cause of misfire under load.

        Edit: After watching the video it doesn't appear to be missing; can you video what's happening when you're going up a hill?

  • +1

    Yes, it is time it went to a Toyota Dealer or Toyota specialist for a proper diagnosis. My 1998 Toyota Vienta is doing just fine. Statistics say 89% of Toyota vehicles are still on the road after 19 years life, which is exceptional reliability in times when most things are throw-away and not viably repairable.

    • are they still driving because of reliability or because their parts are readily available and cheap.

      i've seen cars that have clocked more than 1 million km. they aren't reliable by any means. it's just that spares and service is dirt cheap compared to other makes and models.

      • Well in my case, in 16 years We have spent $1,600 so far on items outside of normal thing like tyres, services, batteries. Needed new rear shock absorbers and tappet gaskets last year and the inside hood lining re-glued and radiator replaced. That is pretty fair for 16 years service, and still going strong.
        My previous Camry I traded in early at 10 years and it cost me $12 in extras (loose cigarette lighter wire) for the entire period.

  • Check the coil packs. They get tiny cracks and leak high voltage power and this can cause a variety of intermittent symptoms like poor idle, poor running, power loss at certain rpms etc. hard to diagnose but any GOOD mechanic should check these first as it a common issue on many makes of cars.

  • +1

    "Fix engine Dizz" your being ripped off. Cars with coil packs don't use "dizzys" or distributors. And the engine is definitely not mis-firing. It would shake alot more, try pulling one of the plugs on the coil packs and you'll know what i mean. The problem your having is called a "surging idle" and could be a number of things. You need a scan tool to diagnose it without throwing parts at it. I'm assuming theirs a Check Engine Light on ?

    Take it to another mechanic and have them diagnose it, tell them to call you before replacing any parts, Minus the ~$110 for oil change their experimenting with your car and at your cost …

    • your being ripped off.

      You're making baseless accusations here. How do you know this for sure?

      And the engine is definitely not mis-firing.

      Have you driven the OP's vehicle in order to make this statement/diagnosis?

      The problem your having is called a "surging idle"

      The correct term for what you are trying to describe is, "hunting"

      and could be a number of things.

      You did not care to elaborate?

      You need a scan tool to diagnose it

      No, not always. I have diagnosed and repaired numerous cars all makes and models, yrs, without one.

      I'm assuming theirs a Check Engine Light on ?

      You assume too much.

      This isn't a personal attack against you and I usually don't even bother responding to posts like these. However this is my area of expertise and I just had to say something this time around. I don't know you, not you me, and I don't really care what you will think about this post.

      However when someone has a genuine question, it is commendable to help where you can. If you don't know what you're talking about however, keep your comments to yourself - do not lead others astray.

      • +1

        If their was a distributor in her car, then she wouldn't be getting ripped off … how can you "Fix engine Dizz" if their is no distributor ? Am i making a baseless accusation ?

        Look at the video, you can see the engine is not mis-firing. Unless it was mis-firing at higher revs, it could be coil packs, that would throw a CEL. That is why i said to use a scan tool, so your not throwing parts at it …

        Surging idle is the correct term, hunting refers to the ECU "hunting" a base idle to compensate for a rich/lean condition. Their could be a number of things causing this from FITV, IACV, dirty MAF/MAP sensors to something as simple as a vacuum leak, like i said have it diagnosed and go from there. If OP starts replacing parts willy nilly, theirs no end.

        Funny how everyone on the internet has 50,000 different professions. Hey highon2str if you don't know how ignition coil packs works look it up on youtube lol. Theirs probably a video of how dizzys work too …

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