Central Locking Retrofit

Does anyone have any idea of costs involved in getting central locking added to an older car that doesn't have it? It's a runaround car that don't want to throw a stack of money at but it's annoying with kids in the car to not have the option.

Saw these on the super cheap website http://goo.gl/hqPJuObut not sure how much effort would be involved or whether it would just be easier to pay someone. I'm possibly handy enough but don't know how frustrating the install process would be.

Any advice appreciated

Comments

  • +2

    Your link doesn't seem to work.

    Anyway - I've done it to a 70s car. Before I go into what's involved though, may I suggest some other considerations.

    Look at Jaycar too. I don't know if they still do, but years ago they had 3-4 different car alarms, with increasingly better options. One was just a basic alarm. Another had inputs/outputs to connect to their central locking kit. And if you had an automatic gearbox, a third alarm could remote-start the car. Erm… I think. Or I might be thinking of some USA kits I've seen.

    Anyway, my point is if you get an alarm LATER, and it doesn't have a central locking output, you'll now have TWO key fobs. One for the alarm, one for the doors. Maybe all alarm/locking kits from other stores have that output now. But back then, Jaycar was one of only a few that did.

    Don't rush it - look at the different kits/options. I do know I've seen USA kits that do all of this and more. (A couple even made the engine act up, and warned you on the key fob someone is trying to steal your car.) So if it's raining and/or winter, you can leave the heater turned to the on position when you turn the car off and lock it. Then when you're about to leave, you can start the engine remotely (from quite some distance away). The car will be warm ready to get in. Then you unlock the doors as you approach the car.

    Also look at aliexpress. I only had a quick glance. But they're quite a bit cheaper than SCA if you're only going to get the locking kit. (But they would do alarms too - just get one with a central locking output.) Cheaper means you could buy a spare kit. Why? Because a couple of months after fitting mine, the control unit started acting up. If something breaks, you'll already have a spare control unit, with all the same connections. Just unplug the old, plug in the new. You also get spare actuators in case one fails; new wiring with the same connectors if wires break; and most importantly I think, the holes you drilled for the actuators will all be in exactly the same position.

    So… What do you have to do?

    Remove door handles, lock button, door skins, (grease stuff while you're in there). Drill and screw the actuators to the inside of the doors. Wind the windows up and down, turn the key in the lock, etc. first to check nothing is going to conflict.

    Each actuator has a metal rod and a clip - that joins the actuator rod to the door button rod. You might have to fiddle a little bit, so the actuators fully lock and unlock (lower and raise). But there's usually more play than necessary, so it's not too critical.

    You would think alignment would be a big issue, but after spending a lot of time getting the first door perfect, I realised it didn't matter much. It's hard to explain, but the way the kits are made, there's free play there.

    Each acutator has a motor, which drives a gear, that thrusts the metal rod upwards, and that attaches at only one point on the button's rod. But the rod has movement, and the actuators thrust more than is needed for most cars. So it's not too critical.

    BTW. If upgraded models of the same car came with central locking - the holes are probably already there. They probably won't match up with your new actuators. But it might show you what angle to fit the actuators on, if you're stuck.

    Then find somewhere under the dash to screw the control box. Run the wires through the doors, which may require pulling off interior panels. Plug them into the actuators. Connect the 12V wire. Connect the earth. Use proper crimped or soldered terminals - no twisted wires with electrical tape.

    I probably wouldn't pay someone to do it. Because I know what to expect with my car. What I mean is, someone else will always break something and not tell you about it. Or won't refit the plastic rain sheet correctly, so your door skins get mould, etc. I'm used to doing such things. Even so, it was still easier to do than I expected.

    Oh - and get some of these cheap tools, to limit any damage you yourself might do to your car. ;-p

    http://www.aliexpress.com/af/car-door-tools.html?ltype=whole…

    • Wow. If there was some sort of prize for providing a complete answer this would be the winner. Thanks for all the details. Much appreciated. Now to continue the research on models and price.

    • This is spot on. I've done it twice before with a Jaycar alarm that cost about $80.

      Included alarm, central locking (actuators sold separately), remote keyless entry, immobiliser (fuel pump stop), and most importantly for security: a little flashing LED.

      Oh, I should mention that the most difficult part was running the wires in the doors, as one of the car had plastic plugs inside the door grommet that I had to drill through. If your car has central locking and not keyless entry (my wife's car did, opening drivers door with the key opened all four) then life is much easier, as you only connect the one door, and don't need to buy actuators.

      • Don't know if they still do, but they used to have one with a timer on the immobiliser. So if someone steals the car, it drives a few meters, then the coil or fuel pump (whatever you hooked to it) - cuts out and engine goes off. They try to restart, but it doesn't start for several tries - finally starts again, and they think they've got it now - but it cuts out again a couple of seconds later. They think all this is drawing too much attention, or it's a lemon - and leave.

        • I've not heard of it, but it sounds like a huge risk to the owner. (ie. Power Steering loss causes an accident).

          Of course, the thief would probably be able to sue you, as well as the owner of any property damaged. Better to have a normal immobiliser IMHO.

  • look on youtube.

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