Hi,
my mate, she has an 1998 ek1 honda civic automatic hatchback.
for some reason the car engine doesnt start even though the
headlights and taillights are working. would anyone
know what is preventing the car from starting?
and how to fix it? we tried jump starting the car
with no success
thanks alot
thanks
Only thing we can do as a novice is to
1.jump start.
2. make sure gear is on park.
Is there cranking noise when you turn the ignition key?
from the way you post, would recommend to
Call NRMA 131111 or equivalent.
Call out around $100 if no membership.
Or join membership now. Not sure if they still offer free roadside for under 18.
Common few things -
Electricity to starting motor.
Fuel to engine.
Fuse box.
yes, you can hear the car trying to start but it won't start
oh, i see
In order of likeliness.
Defective battery.
Defective starter.
Activated immobilizer.
Bad ignition.
Bad fuel pump.
Missing battery.
Possum in exhaust pipe.
Car Stolen.
Kid's plastic pedal-propelled car mistaken for real car.
oh i see
When was the last time the battery was changed? I agree with the others - most likely it's a dead battery.
the battery is 5 years old.
is there a way to 100% find out if its the battery is the problem or not?
also, if its the battery, whats a good brand to get? also, is there different types of battery's?
Yep, it's the battery.
Me, I'd call the NRMA, and they'll swap it out and replace with a 3 yr warranty. Callout is $60 for non-members. They'll check your old battery also.
oh i see,
the car isnt cranking anymore
.. would it still be the battery thats the problem?
we tried jump starting the car
with no success
?battery.
If it was the battery, it would jump start.
The car was trying to turn over but it wouldn't fire, so I'd rule out the battery being the problem.
You can rule out anything to do with the immobilizer because it tried to crank over, like wise rule out bad starter.
It is probably more to do with the fuel supply or ignition system.
My money is the optical pickup on the distributor is busted or the fuse or relay for the fuel pump is gone.
In which case, disconnect pipe and squeezes fuel drops of gas straight to engine to hear if it starts. But leave this to the mechanics or road side heroes.
How do you plan to generate 40psi of fuel pressure by squeezing a few drops of gas straight into the engine?
@Drew22: I am no expert but spot the trick from roadside. Won't try it myself.
Took out the big pipe on the side and next to the engine, he squeezes hard few drops in the pipe and asked to start the ignition.key at the same time. Was expecting some noise if the spark mixes the fuel??!!
Autobarn
the igniter in the distributor usually goes bad on these gen civics, if the cars cranking then its definitely not your battery. Its prolly gone flat because you continuously tried to crank it over. If your not getting any spark at the leads. My bets on the Igniter
Yup, listen to this guy
Mate, i have a 97 EK1 civic. I have been through your problem a couple times and it is either :
-Battery (however you said jump start doesn't work, so ignore this)
-Alternator and distributor/coil and sparkplugs (I've had 2 replacements, been told Ek1 burns it faster than usual)
-Ignition barrel (When you turn the key it does nothing but turn on electrics, either the barrel is worn or it's not performing it's electronic chip sensor process properly, which is what I'm experiencing now and then)
I'd bet it's the coil and sparkplugs. Like the previous guy said, and like what roadside assistance guy told me.
oh, i see
lucky for me, it was just the battery
Oh I see…did you have it checked out.
was It just the battery?
I've never heard of that alternator, distributor or spark plug problem in these civics so you might want to have it checked out. Ignition barrel yes but that is a problem across all hondas of this vintage and luck of the draw.
Alternator - Check your leads and belt tension. Dirty leads cause resistance and an over-tightened will cause the alternator to burn out much quicker.
Distributor - just do the rotor and cap, be mindful that your igniter might fail if after you change it. It happened to me. Changed the rotor/cap and on the test drive car died at a roundabout. Lucky i was around the corner from home.
Spark plug and leads - Change plugs at recommended intervals and leads if they are cracked and causing mis-fire, usually under load. If your burning up your plugs check timing.
Their is also another problem with hondas across this vintage. The main relay (PGM-FI) the solder join cracks on them and causes intermittent crank/no-start problems. It usually happens on hot days. From what i remember when this happens it either cuts power to the fuel pump or injectors. So be mindful of that.
Hmm, the first time i had the distributor changed it was when the car was about 10 years old, so I put it down to age. The second time i got told it was old spark plus, so my own fault, that over strained on the coil.
Where inthe car is the PGM relay? Could this be causing my intermittent no action key turn, or maybe just old key barrel…
I'll have to YouTube how to check for dirty alternator leads cos all looks old and grey to me!
PGM-FI or Main Relay as it commonly called will give you a crank/no start. It either cuts power to the fuel pump or injectors. I cant remember which one. But all dash lights will be normal.
Barrel Ignition. Your car will cut out, start your car and just jiggle the key in all directons. If it cuts out, its the barrel.
@JOCKz: ah ok thanks. My problem is turn the key and no crank, just electrics. Take key out, try again and it usually works. Maybe key is too worn?
@kickling: Could be a number of things. If everything is getting power but your cars not cranking, thats another problem all together. Try cleaning your battery leads and battery posts first. It could also be the lithium grease on your starter motor has dried out and isnt throwing out your bendix gear.
http://www.ozhonda.com/
Try here