Buying Motorcycle Advice

Hello!

Recently got my motorcycle L's and I'm looking for a bike for less than $3k. Will be using it for short commutes to and from uni and work (both ~40km to and from) a few days a week. Currently looking at the Honda CBR125(R) - found some with low KMs and under 2k - might stick with that but I'm also open to other options. I'd prefer a 125cc engine and either sport or naked bodies. It's my first time making such a large purchase so any advice on what to look out for and bargaining would be much appreciated!

Cheers.

Comments

  • Serious question, how much do you weigh?

    We learnt on 125s and the instructors advised us to buy 250cc minimum. Supposedly 125cc motorcycles are sluggish with a decent amount of weight on them, especially uphill.

  • Even my fun bike is 144cc… If you are travelling on freeways I would assume a 125cc would be underpowered?
    If you are keen on a 125cc engine, CB125E could be an option.

    • Won't be travelling on the freeway that much and even so, I would be capped at 90km/h until I get my P2s. Wouldn't mind a CB125E, I did practice on one during the motorcycle course but I'm young at the moment and would prefer a sporty looking bike.

      What bike do you have?

      • I've got a KLX140. Unfortunately my parents don't agree with me riding on the road :(
        Have fun and stay safe out there :)

      • Even 90km/hr would be stretching it on most 125cc bikes. You do t want to have to flat stick it for an hour when the girl you have been tuning for 3 months finally invites you to her house 80kms away.

        Like everyone else on here, forget about the 125cc, it will do you for about 2 weeks and you will want/need something bigger. If you are on that tight of a budget, you will find Suzuki bikes are cheaper than the other Japanese brands and just as good. I'd you go Chinese you can save some money but I wouldn't recommend them. Hyosungs are ok and a 250 will do you fine but do your research and talk to people. Also private sale will be cheaper than dealerships, I have found dealerships to be a total rip off, especially the ones that sell cool modded bikes along with thirty etc

        • Yeah good point. I just realised that my lawnmower's engine capacity is greater than the CBR125R LOL. Oh well, guess it's back to the drawing board :(

        • @fossilfuel: i have ridden the cbr125 as my neighbour had one, it feels like a moped, a 250 feels like a real bike but with not a lot of power, but still quick. Also I notice a lot of inexperienced riders feel like a bike is too big for them, and usually because they can't get their feet on the ground comfortably when stopped. If you are short legged, or just short in general, forget about putting bush feet flat on the ground. You will just have to ride with one foot down and lean the bike a little or stretch. You aren't really meant to out both feet down and you definitely aren't meant to do it while riding

        • @Jackson: Yeah like riding a push bike. I'm pretty familiar with it, except on a motorbike I'll be sure to remember to have my foot on the back brake when stopped and the other tilting the bike.

        • @fossilfuel:
          Sad, no-one really mentions the new Honda CB's (spiritual successors to their successful 70's "Superbike" CB750). Then again, I guess they're expensive and not fit for training.

          I think the 2013+ CB1100 models look bloody great for a naked daily retro bike with modern comforts.

          However, the new 2017+ CB1100 RS which added some neat features and much needed upgrades over the original 2013. However, I can't stand those gold-trims around the bike. And the Red coloured was my favourite, but that black decal on red it ruins the look too. I guess its not a deal breaker if you buy it, and can respray them to be Chrome and Red instead.

          There's also the Triumph T120 and Ducati Scrambler. Not a fan of BMW cycles, or Harley's to be honest.

        • @Kangal: Won't be able to get that since L's are capped at 660cc. Will keep it open as an option when I get my fulls.

  • Could I get some advice on helmets/protective gear too please? I like the modular/flip face helmets with an interior visor/sunnies that can drop down. Any recommendations for jackets, gloves, boots, pants?

    • helmets, go to a shop and try on a bunch of different ones. once you find a brand/model that fits, you can work your way up the sub-range until you find one with all the features you are after.

      • Thanks mate. Any shops and helmet models you'd recommend?

        • personally, i bought my stuff from sydney city motorcycles in Campbelltown, NSW.

          and went with the Shark S700

        • Surprised Aldi motorcycle gear hasn't got a mention.

        • @raging: maybe because people that wear aldi motorcycle gear are no longer with us.

          jokes, i know aldi has some really good gear, couldn't resist the joke :)

        • @madmouse58: Jokes aside, my instructor did mention not to get "cheap shit" like aldi gear. I reckon they look alright though but I'll definitely stick to gear that's known to protect people.

        • @fossilfuel: that's BS, the Aldi gear is all tested in Germany, and when the MCA (Motorcycle Council of Australia) tested independently they found that the Aldi gear protected riders for 14-18seconds sliding whereas some name brand gear that cost 5-10 times as much lasted as low as 3s and up to 12s (all from memory but this is pretty close). They wouldn't mentioned the brand names but the result was basically you can't do much better than buying from Aldi.

          BTW I have slid twice going 40 and 20 kms in my Aldi jacket and it protected me well and it didn't have a mark on it (this particular jacket was a kevlar one)

        • @Jackson: I agree too. I think they look pretty robust. I'll have to look into it though and wait until Aldi has their next motorcycle gear sale (hopefully soon!).

        • @fossilfuel: They had one a couple of months ago and these days they never sell out and gear can go for up to half price after the sale (or 40% off at least) you just have e to be a bit luck with size. Not sure if the MCA published their findings but I still have the original email they sent me if someone wants to call me out for talking BS.

          Also there are a lot of people who spew the bike shop rhetoric that you 'only have one head/body/life' and therefore you should drop your pants and be reamed because if you have a stack you need to protect yourself. While people repeating this are often just trying to be helpful, its simply not true. My list of things to do to be safe would be:

          1. Get a full face helmet that has been tested to Australian standards (will have a sticker on it, does not have to be a standards Australia one there are a few people testing helmets these days). Often expensive helmets just have more features
          2. Close toed lace up shoes and gloves like helmets are non negotiable
          3. Always wear a jacket, a Kevlar will be cooler but a leather one usually provides more impact protection
          4. Make sure you are well rested, calm, not too sick of angry when you ride
          5. Ride like no one can see you, then you will not be putting your life in their hands and only you will be responsible for your safety
        • @Jackson: Yeah I remember that one too, was back in August I think. I remember reading articles on how it's pretty rigid. Aldi stuff has gotten pretty good in quality :D

        • Aldi boots and leather Jacket are good. Leather pants and gloves are not that good. I have an r15 road bike which will happily do 100. Up to 80 feels alright but it starts to drop off. Pretty much no storage and its pretty limited for aftermarket cargo options. Pro tip don't ride next to cars in the lane next to you, ride behind or in front. They won't see you and will pull into your Lane without notice.

        • @fossilfuel:
          Ill just add my 2 cents on the Aldi Gear
          I have been wearing their gear for at least 3 years now and in total been riding for over 6 years. I commute to work and uni at least 4 days a week (each a good 30min trip).
          I use their leather jacket, kevlar jeans and gloves. I cant say anything about their helmets but i wouldn't have an issue using them.
          I had my two bike accidents using their gear in which i wrote off my bike both times.

          First when the car ran a red and i went into the side of him and flew over his bonnet (doing something like 40-50km/hr at impact), and second when someone cut me off by changing into my lane (nowhere to go because of traffic and doing maybe 30-40km/hr). Both times i had Aldi gear on and both times i walked away with no injuries. Only a slight sprained wrist when the guy ran a red. The guy that ran a red also hit a car in the lane next to me and that driver definitely suffered more injuries than i did even though i flew a good 4-5 meters and then scraped the ground for a bit.
          The Aldi gear definitely held up and did its job. Sure there is other gear that will provide more protection, but I would recommend them to a newbie like you who is budget centered.

          They do a yearly sale which seems to be around the same time every year. It really depends on which store you go to as to what stock is like. try to get in asap when the sale is on as i have seen some stores go out of stock on all the common sizes within 1-2 days. (with you being 72Kg i would guess you might want a M size on things which goes really fast.)

          • In regards to Helmets i personally use a Shoei. They are expensive but its one of the best. The two that i did have in my accidents were Shark helmets. Cheaper and still definitely did their job. The big bike stores will usually have last years models of helmets on special if you can find one your size. (these helmets are usually exactly the same between years, only the picture or colour design is different).
            Something to remember is that if you ever have an accident you will need to throw away your helmet so make sure you get at least $1000 gear cover on your insurance. This usually shouldnt add much to it and is usually common from most companies.

          • With insurance it might be different for you but i found that Swann insurance was the cheapest for me each time i insured my bike (have owned 4 bikes from 250cc to 750cc)

          A couple more notes;

          • Dont ever ride without your gear on. Thats stupid. If i had have had these accidents without my gear i definitely would have gone to hospital and potentially had permanent injuries. Even on hot days, dont be persuaded to go without it.

          • Especially if youre driving around cities like me you are going to get people in cars messing up. dont get angry at them and dont let it affect how you ride.

          • Always expect everyone to do the wrong thing. This way you can anticipate anything that could go wrong and be ready to act on it. There have been countless instances where i have avoided accidents because i was ready for the car around me to do the wrong thing.

          • Which brings me to my last point. If you can go for the 250cc at least. The extra go will allow you to get out of some sticky situations that a 125cc bike wont. I currently ride a GSXR-750 and its engine power has definitely helped me avoid accidents.

          • Above all else enjoy riding, its fun :)

        • @Jackson: That is a sound advice.

        • @raging: The gear is ok - not great. The helmets are terrible from what I've seen.

        • Just a note on the Aldi Touring jacket and hot weather.
          I am not sure where you are located but I found the current Aldi touring jacket to not have enough ventilation in Queensland and it would become a sweat suite in anything above 29c even when moving.
          Their new summer jacket should be better for hot weather from it's looks but I don't own one as it's length was very short on me.

        • @Pyrock: Wow, thanks for the detailed response!

          I'm not gonna skimp on gear as I'm trying to spend less on the bike and more on the gear. Will definitely be riding with gear on all the time regardless of weather.

          I'll jot down all your points, they've been mighty helpful. Thanks again!

        • @macrocephalic: i find that the biggest issue with cheap helmets is poor fit (which you can try before you buy) and air and water leakage, which you won't know but if you are budget conscious probably doesn't bother you in the 50 dollar price range

        • @raging: that's cos it's crap

        • @PleasureMe:

          Thanks for taking the time to read through the comments.

          I personally don't have an opinion on them really.

    • Just don't skimp on the gear. Helmet, pants, jacket, gloves, boots. No sneakers and bare hands please. Even if it's too hot, wear the gear.

      • Will do. I'm planning to get the whole set by minimising how much I spend on the bike.

        So often I shake my head when I see motorcyclists wearing shirts and shorts.

      • Guy riding a scooter the other day. No helmet, singlet and thongs. humming along at 60kph.

    • You are learning to ride. DO NOT GO FOR ANY FANCY FLIP FACE helmets etc. You will then always pick the, 'lets flip the front and ride' habit and not get used to a full faced helmet. A full face helmet will save your jaw and the front of your face. It will be uncomfortable till you get used to it, then it will be like you aren't even wearing one. Try some in a shop, there's plenty to chose from. HJC, ARAI, SHOE, SHARK, etc etc… Try to get something that's light, has good air vents.

      Buy proper jacket, don't have to buy full leathers straight away. HJC and others make decent gear which are affordable. Get good gloves, something which has pinky finger protection (the finger is stitched to the others so it doesn't separate in accident). Something which has nice knuckle protection. Get Draggin jeans, I wear them all day and they are comfortable. Same with boots, get decent boots which you will be comfortable to wear all around instead of the mx sports boots which are a pain to wear all day.

      You can get helmets which has sunvisor additions or you can wear a sunny inside your helmet.

      • Good point, I hadn't thought about the "flip and ride" habit. Really don't want to get into bad habits.

        What gear do you have? (Apart from your Draggin jeans)

      • +1 vote

        Not only this but they are weaker due to the nature of the 2 piece design. You can see the DOT testing on youtube etc. They can be made just as strong but it would add considerable weight

        • All Australian helmuts must be dot ADR Approved. My full face flip weighs same as light to medium weighted full face. Has anyone sneezed in their Helmut? I can flip mine up and spray on cars.

        • @thereyougo: LOL, that's even more incentive to buy a flip helmet :D

        • @thereyougo: I came across a non fatal crash at about 40-50klm with an open face which broke on one side and some serious jaw damage.

          I have also seen a mate go face first into the guard rail upright at well over 100, fatal but the helmet stood up, the visor didnt and impact g forces would mean brain dead anyways.

          Some tracks wont allow a flip helmet!

          Unless you are a courier they arnt of any real convenience.

    • Been riding and racing motorcycles for years now. Crashed tested more gear than I care to admit too… so I feel good about giving you advice on gear.

      1- Wear it!!!! Lots of ppl say "It's just 10min away" or "I'll go slow" and those are the ones who get screwed. If you haven't heard it before "ATGATT" or All The Gear All The Time. You WILL crash. When, no one knows… it might be in your 1st week or in 20 years time. It happens to all of us.

      2- spend your money in good gear, especially helmet. Solid colors are cheaper and you'll scratch it… if I were you, white would do it since it's both mpre visible in traffic and cooler on a sunny day.

      3- Watch out for fakes when buying cheap gear. Also stay away from Alpinestars gloves regardless… stitching around the fingers tend to give up really early in its life.

      4- Do wear gloves!!! Your 1st reaction when crashing is to put your hands down. And you might have noticed how important they are…

      As for the financial side of things, best way to save money on your bike costs… maintenance!! Do it often and learn to do it yourself! Start with ensuring to oil your chain at least once a week if you're commuting on it. Then learn to change oil and filters yourself, it's incredibly easy. Literally a 20min job!

    • I ride a supermoto/dual sport type bike. I find that offroad helmets are cheaper, and more comfortable (normally), have a brim to keep the sun out of your face, and googles are much cheaper to replace than visors. They won't be good for riding a sports bike, but if you end up on anything without fairings, try some on.

  • Get a 250, 125 are pretty dangerous. Very underpowered. I'd look at your ninja 250, honda cbr250,cb250

    • 100% agree. 125s have NO place on a public road. The few times I have ridden one I have felt so nervous. 250min, if he's doing a lot of highways of above 70km I would even say look higher at 400, 500s if possible as it will make everything MUCH more enjoyable.

  • Far out its rare to see someone wanting to make such a sensible purchase as their first bike. A friend of mine just paid $8k for a brand new bike of a brand I've never heard of.. And it was financed.

    You have come to the right place for the answer to your question as I bought a 2012 Honda CBR125R (the newer model) as my first bike. I paid $3k for mine as it was a year old with just 500km on the clock. The bike is awesome. Its capable of going 100kph, its perfect for cutting traffic, its dirt freaking cheap (10L of fuel will get you 400km, still above 300km in heavy traffic), if you aren't planning on leaving the metro area there is not a single negative about the bike. Its super cheap and easy to service, its cheap to buy new parts, I could go on and on about how great the bike is. I rode mine from Melbourne to Adelaide and back, also all around Tasmania without a single fault. Don't go a cb125e they are much less powerful and you may regret it.

    The only reason why I got rid of mine was because I enjoyed traveling into the country, and it was a struggle on a 125 for obvious reasons.

    You'd be surprised how little difference there is between a 125cc and a lot of 250ccs. I ended upgrading to a Suzuki vstrom 650. In Victoria a 125cc is still just under $400 to register so I could warrant upgrading to a larger bike for $200 more. But at the price you're saying it is in NSW I would never have upgraded. Also, I put 20,000ks on mine and it was still solid as hell.

    Happy to answer any questions you may have!

    • Holy shit that price is a steal. Thank you so much for typing out this response, it really gives me some insight on what to do.

      I will rarely leave the Sydney metro area on bike however, I might do some longish commutes (~30+ kms) on the freeway to a mates place/area or head over to beachy areas where there are a lot of windy and hilly roads, but only on rare occasions. How well the does the bike fare on these type of roads? I also heard that 125cc bikes don't do to well up really steep hills (even the family people mover has trouble going up that hill).

      Are there any negatives to the CBR125R?

      How much was your upkeep for the CBR125R (e.g maintenance, servicing, fuel, etc)?

      How did you go about inspecting the bike before purchasing it? What questions would you ask a private bike seller? How did you get the bike to your place?

      Sorry for all the questions :(

    • Great advise there! How is the VStorm 650 ? Does it hesitate to lean ? I ride Yamaha FZ6.

      • It took a while to get used to. I used to have heidenau k60's on it which are a square tyre, I've since switched to a radial tyre which definitely changed the dynamics of the bike to lean much better.

  • I'm just stoked that someone has some sense in them when buying a bike haha.

    I've only ever had one extremely steep hill that was in the country that I could probably only get up to 60kph on. Whilst I cannot comment on the older 'thinner' looking cbr125r I can guarantee that you won't have any major issues with the newer one made from 2011 onwards (I think..?). I'm not saying that the bike is a beast but the amount of 'getting up hill' issues that you have will be so minimal compared to the savings of the lower registration costs.

    I used to commute up to about 80kms with no issues.

    Only negative in my opinion is that its a bike with fairings so if you drop it or if the wind blows it over (this is possible with any bike if you don't park it on the right angle for the conditions) or if someone reverses into it.. (Had that happen because they didn't see it but it didn't do any damage because it was on grass). But you'll get that with 99% of motorcycles ever unless you get a naked bike or a bike with crash bars. And once again its cheap as hell to repair anyway..

    Upkeep was 1L of oil for about $17 for super cheap auto. Fuel was as I said 300-400kms used about 10L which is when it hits reserve. I serviced it myself because its super easy. It doesn't have an oil filter so you don't ever have to buy one. It has an oil plate/strainer that is easily removed and cleaned during an oil change. I had to replace the chain which was about $30 on eBay plus about $30ish to get installed. I burned through a set of tyres towards the end of my time with the bike because I traveled to Adelaide and around Tasmania. Otherwise tyre wear was basically nothing.. I got 20k kms out of mine, if I didn't travel interstate I reckon I would have got 30k kms which is a lot for motorcycle tyres.. They were about $300 to replace.

    I bought mine from a dealer. I didn't actually test ride it because I wasn't confident enough having only just got my L's haha. I had to ride it home and it was terrifying haha

    That's alright keep hitting me with the questions if you want I've got all the answers (I think…) :)

    • OMG thank you again for typing out this response. You're amazing! :D

      I think that answers most of what I wanted to know. I'm set on getting a CBR125R (I've already got my eye on a few) unless I can find a good deal on the YZF-R15.

      Thank you once again rambutann for the concise reply! :)

      • Apologies that I didn't directly reply to the last comment.. One more thing on the test ride thing, if you can't ride it yourself either bring someone who can with you or get them to ride around in front of you. Just listen to it and if something doesnt sound right then try get a second opinion. The cbr125r is such basic mechanism that there's not an awful lot that can go wrong, that's a large reason why I bought it, massive reliability.

  • Don't buy anything below 250cc - low power/torque, noise from the high rpm all the time and vibrations will annoy you. Thin tyres are not the best idea too. Also try to find something with ABS.

    • Any links/recommendations for a bike under $3k? All the features you've mentioned are in bikes well above my budget.

    • a 250 single will vibrate too, most vibrate if you are used to 4cyl. Basically anything with 1cyl will vibrate… nature of the beast!

  • What kind of riding are you planning to do? Do you plan to get on the freeways?
    A good learners bike which will last you from L to P would be:
    Kawasaki Ninja ~600..
    Kawasaki Z series (upto 650cc)
    Suzuki Vstrom or GSX upto 600 or I think 650 (check the LAMS approved models on their website)
    Honda CB or CBR upto 650 cc.

    Just because they are higher capacity bikes, don't mean they are intimidating. Some of those bikes are very well suited for learners. The gearbox is forgiving, acceleration isn't that scary but will have no problem sticking to freeway speeds, some of them are really good at handling. When you are learning a road bike, I would not want to get something that limits your learning capabilities. Also a lot of these models have bigger brakes and tyres than a 125 or 250, which means, they are more safe and steady on a freeway/rain etc.

    If you are just travelling within the city, if I were you, I would have bought a Honda Grom. I rode that bike and its fun, economical and a brilliant city bike.

    Don't buy new, there's plenty of second hand on bikesales. Don't buy a 125 or 250cc if you are going to do any highway riding, you will end up upgrading to a bigger bike on your Ps, trust me on that. If you get a Grom, you should keep it even if you get a bigger bike on your Ps…its a fun versatile bike to keep in the shed.

    Where abouts are you located? Can look at bikesales if you want.

    • Will rarely travel on the freeway if I can take the car. Just casual riding to and from uni and work, which is about 10-20km one way.

      Honda Groms look tiny and gimmicky so I'll give it a pass.

      I'm in metro Sydney. I've had a look at bikesales and haven't seen much under the $3k mark that I like :(

  • Considered the KTM Duke 390 ?

  • You could always buy a Hyosung. Not a great bike, but if your just trying to get to the license to buy a bigger bike it might not be a bad option

    • Yeah I saw a few around on bikesales. They look pretty rad but not sure how reliable they are. Will give it a pass though.

      • If i was you due to being a budget i would go for a hyosung the new models are very reliable and so cheap. I highly doubt u would get your use out of it before u were to get your full license and sell it to get what ever bike you decide on later.

        Seriously consider it.

        • At the moment, I'd rather have something that's known to be reliable i.e Hondas.

          But even this is very tempting.

          I'll have to look further, thanks for the insight.

    • Don't buy Hyosung. Speak to any motorcycle mechanic and they will tell you why. Stick to big 4 Japanese brands. Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki. Can't go wrong

      •  

        What's wrong with a hyosung?

        • Nothing wrong with them just the big heads out there don't like them just because they are Chinese.
          Honestly paying $3000 for almost new decent bike it will long out live what a learner will do with it.

        •  

          @mp3police:

          Actually - they're Korean, but close enough! Also looking at their website, I don't think they sell the gt250 new anymore. 2nd hand ones will be 3-4 years old at least.

          On the bright side, the OP can probably pick up a 2014 gt650 for 3k. Hard to get better bang for your buck than that.

        • @sp00ker: yeah sorry was actually thinking of Great wall :s
          my partners dad worked for one of the biggest bike shops in sydney and he is super against them simply because they aint the top4

          But I see it the way you put it
          $3K for a gt650 and they are decent reliable bikes and for a leaner it will do beyond what is really needed until u get the money and legally allowed to buy a good top 4 bike

  • My suggestion to you is a road/trail bike, something like a Suzuki DR250e or even a DR250e, both LAMS approved. Get the best riding gear you can afford, jeans with Kevlar panels, Dri_rider jacket, boots that cover at least your ankles, decent gloves with palm and knuckle protection and of course a Helmut full face of course, mine has a flip up front section like Vic Police use, excellent! I've been riding for over thirty years and have owned many bikes and taught a few people how to ride. Road/trail bikes are by far the easiest bikes to ride, you sit higher, more manoeuvrable and you can tear the tracks up on the weekend. Don't get suckered in to buying a race replica cbr or rc Honda. There's simple lowering kits available for Road/trails on ebay if your not 6 ft tall.

    • Will definitely look out for good gear. I've been checking out clearance items on various bike store sites and hoping to snatch something my size that's good and cheap.

      Not a fan of dirt bikes so will give it a pass. I'm open to naked bikes though.

  • +3 votes

    check service history, flat spotted rear tire or v-shaped front is a deal breaker unless I can get the cost of tires taken off. It upsets steering! Check for leaking forks, pads life. The bike you have in mind is fairly new so you want to make sure the general condition matches the klms. Watch YT videos on what to look out for when buying a bike 2nd hand. There must be hundreds. Also, check out forums on the bike you have decided on for common issues to look out for. Knowledge is key and owners know specifics better than run of the mill riders.

    As for gear, you want to buy it for the long run. Stuff like kevlar jeans are binned after pretty much every crash. Rubbish! Leather is best and decent stuff holds up for multiple crashes. You want gear that has CE armor which is plastic and foam on the knees/shin. Padding on bum and hip is fine. You can get A*'s leather touring pants for about 200-300 if you search hard enough.

    Jacket you want CE on elbow/forearm and shoulders. I dont think they sell jackets with CE spine protectors unless you get a full race suit. Unsure of prices but atleast $600 locally and less if OS.

    If you ride sydney metro only and dont go above 70 you can get away with textile with tight fitting CE armor. Mountain/twisty/fun roads leather only

    Boots and gloves, spend atleast 400 on boots, under that they are missing some protection, more than that, while they are better its mostly "features" that dont add a whole lot to safety. You want hard plastic around the heel and ankle, on the shin and a stiff toe section with metal on the toe an added bonus. Gloves you want something on the higher end. Full leather with knuckle and wrist armor plate. Soft leather while nice, can wear through quicker without even crashing.

    If you are looking to save on some stuff I might be able to help. I have a spare set of Oxtar EVO TCS (troy baliss boots) that I dont think they make anymore. They were worn once by my GF for a 3 hour ride (shes a terrible pillion) and boxed since. They look like this http://www.oxtar-boots.com/tcsevo1.jpg I have crashed in mine (not the spare set) twice at over 150klm on the track and they hold up well. They have Ti plates in the toe and heel plus all the other good stuff I mentioned. They are vented so great in summer, not recommended for wet. Size 44 (us 10.5) ill take $300, they were $599. Dainese wave back protector $80 like this https://www.revzilla.com/product_images/0139/8029/dainese_wa... Pm me if you want to check it out.

    Another way to save on gear is check out some forums, people buy stuff, wear it once or never since it doesnt fit etc and sell cheap. Dont be afraid to buy OS, its a lot cheaper as long as you know your size and read reviews to see if it runs big/small/exact.

    • Oh wow. Thanks for the advice! Will definitely be using this when inspecting the bike and buying gear.

      Your boots are a bit big for me. Thanks for the offer though :)

  • Get a Honda PCX150. Unbelievable reliability and super easy to ride and park. It has space under the seat for a helmet/small grocery bags to boot. You can get used ones for under 3K easy. Rides great on the motorway, superb mileage and good looking.