Essentials Accessories for Cycling to Work

Hey guys,

So I just bought by first Road Bike and looking to start riding it to work. I live in the eastern suburbs of Sydney and work in the CBD so the commute is about 10kms each direction.

Now I have the bike and helmet, and I was looking at getting a head and tail lights. Apart from those, I was hoping to get some suggestions regarding what are your essentials for riding to work?

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Comments

  • +2

    water bottle

    • +4

      10kms I rarely would use a water bottle in that distance, just drink before and after is fine.

      • +3

        good for you :)

        OP is probably just starting to get into cycling and will probably require more fluids. I would also highly recommend a water bottle

        • +4

          Fair enough, but everyone seems so obsessed with having a water bottle on them 24/7 they seem to forget the human body is quite capable of doing an hours work without stopping for a drink quite easily.

          I do take a water bottle on most rides, but for 10km to work find that it is just adding weight to my ride for no purpose. THe height of summer will make a difference, I do find myself pretty thirsty after riding home on a hot afternoon, but slamming down a cold drink form the fridge on arrival is better than sipping some luke warm water on the ride.

  • +9

    Familiarise yourself with the route, that's the most important thing, and be mindful of dangerous spots where it's easy to imagine incidents and how you could be more careful around them.

    • +1

      I actually didn't think of this one. I might give it a ride on the weekend just to get used to it before weekday traffic.

      Thanks for the advice.

      • +1

        That's what I did when I started. Ride your route on a weekend to get used to it. With the weekend you can take your time and there's no pressure to be at work ASAP.

      • and on you first couple rides, leave slighlty earlier. traffic might be worse, unforseeable delays etc.

  • +5

    I'm in the same boat.

    I think the essentials are a hi-vis vest, waterproof backpack cover, patch repair kit, spare inner tubes, a wedge bag, a small hand pump, tail and head lights.

    The optional extras I've added are a bike computer and a helmet cam.

    • +2

      Wouldnt bother with the Hi Viz vest. New research is saying that Hi Viz is not effective, better to get another couple of flashing lights to clip onto your helmet/backpack/seat tube.

  • +5

    Train horns to scare the crap out of the drivers who get too close.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oEfooqchQMo

  • +5

    A spare tube or two, couple of tyre levers and a few CO2 cartridges (Much easier and faster than a hand pump) chuck it all in either a saddle bag or in your backpack. You will get a puncture eventually, it's only a matter of time so I'd familiarise yourself with how to change a tube.

    Lights are essential, I run my rear light whenever I ride regardless of if it's day or night.

    I also carry a small lock in case I want to drop into the shops on the way home.

  • +4

    my hubby got wet weather clothes and a waterproof backpack. and a lock for the bike

  • +3

    Over my commuting time I've adapted my gear. Will you ride rain hail or shine every day, or just when the weather is good?

    In no particular order:
    Lights (as stated) - I only use mine when it's dark, but I don't frequent busy roads.
    Spare tube, patch kit, tyre levers and pump for the inevitable flat tyre.
    Tyre liners or puncture resistant tyres.
    Multi tool.
    Rain cover for backpack and rain jacket - Mine is hi-vis and also goes on in poor light.
    Gloves
    Wind break vest for cold weather.
    Overshoes for cold/wet.
    Lock for 'incidental stopping'. Leave a good lock at work.

    Most imporantly GPS computer or Strava app for your phone so you can race yourself.

    • +5

      If your commute isn't on Strava, did you even commute?

    • I would say that I will mostly be going for good weather but I'm bound to get caught in the rain at some point.

      Thanks for the list by the way.

    • +3

      Wasted trip unless you know that you were 10,546th out of the 200000 people on the leader board to ever ride between 2 sets of traffic lights! Get onto Strava ASAP, as others have said, if the ride isnt on Strava it never happened. To go along with this get one of the cycling jerseys with the screenprint on the front that says:

      "if you find me unconscious on the road could you please pause my Garmin"

  • +3

    Make sure you have a bell so that you can't get stung in a police cycling blitz. Not much use in traffic, but essential to avoid a fine.

    • You can get one now that sits on the bottom half of a Garmin mount called 'hide my bell'. Looks like it meets the minimum requirements to avoid a fine.

  • life insurance and I think you need id on you now too.

  • +2

    Bike Insurance and Cyclist Liability Cover
    https://bicyclensw.org.au/membership-old/insurance/

  • +1

    Get a dash cam.

    • +1

      Do you know of any good ones for bicycles?

      • +2

        Cycliq Fly 6 for rear, 12 for front. Not an essential though, just recommended if you like to upload your frustration to youtube and have the police do nothing about it.

      • +1

        I was thinking along the lines of an action cam mounted on a bike (since in NSW you cant mount a action cam on a helmet) but I read about the Cycliq Fly series. Looks promising but really expensive?

        • +1

          I have a GoPro Session mounted in front of my stem. Looks quite discreet.

  • -3

    Death insurance.

  • +1

    Its wet season. Rain coats and waterproof bag will be essential. Bike fenders or mudguards will be handy too for wet weather.

    • +1

      Sydney has a wet season?

  • +1

    Gloves, lights, a helmet and a bell (mandatory), and a buff for summer.

  • +2

    Watch out for magpies when it's swooping season

  • What bike did you get OP? I'm interested in buying one

    • +1

      I bought a Cannondale Synapse 2011 from gumtree, it took me a fair while to find one the right size and you have to take into consideration that it is used. But I ended up being pretty lucky, it hadn't been ridden much not obvious damage and it was $500 which is what you would expect to pay for that type of bike.

  • Essential Steroids and Lycra.

  • +4

    I've been commuting by bike daily for about 20 years.

    My personal essentials:
    - Bike peddler rear view mirror. I'd also recommend some good photochromic sun glasses so you can ride with glasses and mirror at night. Something like Julbo Trail Speed or Bolle Helix. Rudy project also. The mirror is so essential for maintaining 360 awareness without having to try look behind you. I could not ride without it anymore
    - Hi vis vest
    - Honestly, a bybrid bike, not a road bike. Something manouverable that you could mount a kerb at a reasonable speed in an emergency
    - Figure your route and continue to take it. Figure out which is safest/quickest, tradeoff, etc. Especially locate any bike lanes/links. They aren't always obvious
    - Lights. Good to have a flashing rear one with side illumination. Side illumination important. So many close calls I've had are a-holes nearly t-boning me turning off a side street
    - Bell. Aside from being a legal requirement many road bikes ignore…

    • +1

      Thanks for the Bike peddler rear view mirror idea. That looks like exactly what I want. Was able to find a knockoff on ebay for 2.99 USD delivered.
      http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252841107102

      • Oh nice, an alternative finally. The bike peddler is for right hand riding, so to mount properly for Aus you need to drill out. You want the miror in landscape mode over your right ear

        • I can understand the landscape mode part but is there a benifit to it being over my right ear as opposed to being on the left like shown in the product photo? I guess cars would pass on my right so thats the reason? Do I need to buy a different model than this one?

        • @Scaregdearimasu: Unlike the bike peddler come that one has the pivot in the middle so should do landscape both sides. And yes, I find it much better having it over the right. If on the left you need to rotate left to see cars behind so you loose peripheral vision on traffic to you direct right. On the right you don't.

        • @Mobe1969:
          Makes sense thanks,
          I'm guessing from looking at the stock photos on my model I should be able to adjust it to be on either left or right style configs. (one photo shows it flat for delivery)
          Right config makes significantly more sense for driving on the left. Thanks for that I would have at least initially set it up as the stock photo shows.

  • I have a vested interest, but definitely recommend a good backpack and/or suit bag designed for cycling. Most important part is a good hip buckle to take the weight off your shoulders. Also look for reflection built into the bag.

    • Yer I have been looking into a good waterproof bag. Would you be able to do a deal on any of your bags?

      • +1

        That would actually be another recommendation - no backpack. I've never ridden with one and would recommend rack bag and/or panniers. The topeak rail system is great nd you have a lot of easy swap options. Keeps weight better distributed too.

        • Oh really no bag, what's the reasoning behind that? Weight distribution?

        • @TitaniumOvaries:
          Weight distribution. Maneuverability/mobility. Keeping back cool. and sheer convenience of having the stuff on the bike frame rather than my frame.

        • +1

          Personally I prefer the backpack. I know I get a sweaty back, but I just think the bike is more manoeuvrable and better handling with the weight on me and not the back wheel. I tried pack on a rear rack an didn't enjoy it.

          Another advantage of a backpack is that it is easy to switch between bikes so I can take the dirt trails without much planning or quickly switch bikes if one has a mechanical.

        • @Euphemistic: Yeah, all personal preference. Personally though I find a backpack restricts my shoulder movements, and my upper body flexibility. I guess it would begood back protection on a spill though…

        • @Mobe1969: I think that depends on the backpack. I have two; one o them restricts my shoulder movements, the other one doesn't.

      • You can just get a rain cover if you cant find a waterproof bag

      • +2

        OK, have created an OzB deal for you (and anyone else who wants to use it … until midnight tomorrow). Let me know if you have any questions.

  • The essentials:
    * Front and rear lights
    * Basic repair gear - little multitool, spare tube, tyre levers
    * Hi-vis gillet for autumn/spring weather.
    * Helmet
    * Bike lock. Securely locking your bike requires a u-lock and a chain (or two u-locks).
    * A bell. It's always a bit of a gamble about whether using it is a good idea - some people startle. After a while you get a feel for the people that are likely to act poorly and just give them a wide berth/slow down. And of course children are basically unpredictable, so you just have to slow right down.

    Bonuses for cold weather/wet
    * Mudguards - these make a very large difference in the wet.
    * A buff - in cold weather I use it to cover my next and part of my face too
    * Hi-vis waterproof rain jacket - I actually use this for warmth in winter even if it's not raining.
    * Ear warmer
    * Waterproof booties - toasty warm feet even in the wet.

    Other nice stuff
    * Front/rear camera (I have fly12/6)
    * Panniers (I found a backpack gave me a bad back, ymmv).
    * Clipless shoes/pedals.
    * Dedicated cycle clothing (padded shorts or knicks, jersey).
    * Leave toiletries/shoes/and bike lock at work.

  • +1

    Pack 2 spare inner tubes at all times. Plus tyre levers.

  • Deodorant please

  • I'm curious to know at what distance commute people think it becomes necessary to carry the equipment needed to deal with a puncture.

    I have recently started riding 4kms each way to and from work and do not carry spare inner tubes with me. I've never changed an inner tube and I'm not sure how long it would take me, but given the short distance, I wonder if I would just be better off walking back home to get the car or continuing to walk to work rather than fuss repairing it on the way.

    Given that I ride mostly along a river parkway with two short stints on quiet suburban roads, I just have my Nutcase helmet, the bell on my bike and a basket to carry my lunch. My bike has front and rear lights but I don't use them for my commute as I ride during daylight hours and I'm a fair/cool weather rider so I haven't worried about wet weather gear.

    This thread is making me feel woefully under-prepared though.

    • I ride just over 6km to work I have only ever fixed a puncture at about the half way mark, but I am reasonably proficient at it. Closer to home or work and I'll walk, or attempt to pump it enough to continue riding. On one occasion I would have been late for a meeting so I asked one of my colleagues to come and pick me up in a ute. Depends how critical getting to work on time is.

      • +1

        It's been a while since I had a puncture (since I got Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres), but I did used to. I do keep a spare tube and tools always still though. I do 9km, and have had to walk most of the way a few times after mechanical failures (like a sheared crank bolt)

        • +1

          Very important to keep tires pumped up to the max to avoid punctures- normally 110psi on a road bike..

        • +1

          @Blue Boat: That's old school thinking. Running slightly less pressure is more energy efficient and comfortable. The tyre is also able to conform around some debris and prevent a puncture, but you need to make sure the pressure is not so low that you end up with pinch flats from pinching the tube against the rim.

          110psi should only be for the skinniest of tyres and a larger rider. I run 23mm tyres and usually around 80psi front and 90psi rear - and some would say that 90psi is too high.

        • +1

          @Euphemistic: Optimal tyre pressure, just like cars, depends on the weight that'll be carried and the comfort level desired. So there's no one pressure for everyone - it depends on how heavy you are, and how wide your tyres are.

          A graph like the one on this page would help.

        • @eug: True, you don't just pump them up to the max for everyone.

    • Well, I'd rather spend 5 minutes fixing a puncture than walking 5 minutes, so for me, anything over a couple of kilometres. I've lost count of the tubes I've replaced, so it's not like it's a big deal for me now.

      Personally, for 4km I would take tube/tyre levers/small multitool/CO2 pump - then spend an hour on a weekend working out how to use it all. Murphy says you'll eventually get a puncture right at the mid-point, then you're walking 2km pushing a bike, which sounds unpleasant.

      Unless you have someone you can ring and get to pick you up I guess.

      • +1

        Think I jinxed myself. Hit a pothole and got a pinch flat 5min from work on the way home today. Fixed it, then carried on for another 20ish km.

  • +2

    if you're a newbie or just starting to get into cycling, stick with ordinary pedals. Don't get pressured in getting clip-less simply because everyone else has them unless you've had lots of experience where unclipping is like second nature. I ride 10ks each way to work and to me, the difference is so minimal that i removed them simply because I need to get my feet down quickly to avoid pedestrians or cars.

    • +1

      God Damit, I litterally bought bike shoes on the weekend.

      But thank you for the advice!

    • Don't worry mate! The world of cycling can be quite addictive and it's likely in no time you'll want to pop them on to try it out. I've got them on my weekend bike just not on my commuter bike, perhaps I feel safer when riding in a group or with my cycling buddies coz it's easier to be spotted.

      Just on the commute to work I prefer to be able to plant my foot down in case of emergency.

      • +1

        Completely agree.

        Normal shoes and pedals for commuting. Bike shoes only on the road bike when going out for a longish ride!!

        • I go with clipless pedals and cycling shoes, but they are MTB shoes so you can actually walk in them. I haven't used road cycling shoes, but from what I've seen imagine they are no good for walking. I use the same type of shoes across road biking, mountain biking and commuting.

  • Comfortable trousers! While they should be decent for office too.
    I once wore cycling trousers to commute… they were very good for even a long ride, but when I entered the office, I became a joke~~

    • +1

      Nope, Lycra Bib Shorts everywhere. Wear the jokes as a badge of honour.

      I know I look dreadful in lycra, if other people dont like it they dont have to look. As bad as i look there are folks walking around bursting out of their leggings, crop tops and polo shirts that look equally as bad if not worse. My comfort on the bike is much more important than other people's taste in passing fashion! I also find it funny sometimes that the same people who would make fun of a middle aged guy in lycra would proudly be the first to be supportive of a plus size model or to stick up for an overweight person in tight fitting clothes. Disrespecting people about their weight is very uncool, making fun of cyclists is a good fun sport!

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