Hello,
I'm looking to get my Mazda 3, Auto, 80K log book service and I'm getting quotes around $500-$600. They are saying it's a major service and need to replace all filters.
Is this really true? $600 for service?
80,000km Logbook Service - $621.28 - this Includes: (as per the Manufacturers Manual)
Why? and it will be 4 years from now for me to hit 105K.
Timing chain not timing belt, so shouldn't be that bad
https://www.mazda.com.au/owners/servicing/owners-service-cal…
Easy to check with Mazda themselves, just put in your vin number. Should also give you a list of what needs to be done. Maybe copy>Paste the list here so people can see.
Nope, VIN/Rego search is not working. :(
does honda and toyota have a similar website?
Google?
Toyota want $1400 for 160,000 service on our Kluger.
Oil changes for AWD system and in tank fuel filter.
Grr
skip in-tank fuel filter
can you elaborate on this? I'm genuinely curious, my in-tank fuel filter is overdue (according to recommended service interval in the owners manual) but I've read mixed comments on line… also if you did book it in, do you think they'd actually replace it given that there's no obvious way to know if they did the work.
fuel filter, filters the fuel that you pumped from servo, it's not dirty as long as you don't pump at dodgy servos, but after gazzillions gallons , there ought to be some residues left in fuel tank.
as long as you don't empty your fuel tank, never drive down to the last sip,
then no need to change it as most of the dirt remains at the bottom of your tank.
don't worry, you'll know when your fuel filter is clogged. your fuel pump works harder is your filter is clogged. other than that, no harm.
if you're going to doubt them, then how you know they change your engine oil in every service? maybe they just left it there for you to pick up and collect your money without doing anything.
it's never-ending doubtness.
That's because you have to disassemble so much to get to the damn thing :(
if that includes ATF flush & fill , then still ok.
Might only be drain and refill ATF…
Maaaaaate, wuts 'append to yaw Engrish maaaaaate?
What?
Depends what needs to be done. My toyota at 80k 'needed' to have an in-tank fuel filter change (every 80k i think), and that was an extra $3-400 than my normal service.
Updated the topic.
Yikes that's expensive. I wonder how much the whole fuel pump with fuel filter assembly thing would cost… I've looked online to diy, but dismantling the fuel filter from the assembly/housing thing looks a bit fiddly.
What Toyota are you driving ?
Well the wife is driving the 2009 corolla (zre152r)… I'm driving an ancient 4A-FE corolla. The 2009 model has the in tank fuel filter it's travelled 117,000km with the original filter… there was some recall on a fuel gasket thing that I had done by Toyota, but I doubt they would have changed the filter.
Got a ZZE122 Corolla (2002),never replaced the fuel filter.
210,000 km and still going strong.
Replaced spark plugs twice, rocker gasket once, front brake pads twice, rear once, front struts once, rear once. tyres too many………..
Lots of videos on youtube for the fuel filter
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=2009+corolla+fu…
Cost about $175 for Genuine Toyota
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-FUEL-FILTER-COROLLA-ZRE15…
@fwdcelica: wow, wouldn't have expected the rocker gasket to go. Is it common to replace the struts under normal driving conditions was it easy? did you use quick or naked struts? As for brakes, I had a bit of drama with a Bendix pair from super cheap auto (they kept making noise no matter what i did (clean, deglaze, etc.)), switched to genuine and now i can brake silently. Haven't bled or replaced the brake fluid though :/ it's a bit of a hassle taking all the wheels off in a domestic setup. I'll probs leave the fuel filter, i'm too worried that i'll snap a wire when disassembling the fuel filter from where it lives. Accessing the spark plugs is a pain in the ass in the ZRE152R it's right near the windscreen and there's a piece of plastic in the way, there's only just enough room if you use a universal socket joint… at least the iridium tipped plugs last ages.
I've also drained and refilled the transmission fluid. The ZRE was ex Qfleet and the trans fluid was close to black… the colour is still very dark after the drain and refill, i probably should have dropped the pan and did it properly. Have you drained and refilled the coolant in your ZZE122, I saw an instruction guide which showed a small plastic tap at the bottom corner of the radiator, near the battery - it looks super easy.
@Worf:
The rocker gasket was leaking at the rear. Its made of rubber so the get hard and don't seal properly. Pretty easy to replace.
Struts do wear out. Replaced with KONI yellow inserts front & KONI shocks rear. You need a spring compressor to remove the springs. That can be tricky.
I had some Bosch pads for the rear that were noisy and made a ton of dust. Swapped them for genuine. Good as gold.
You are supposed to replace the fluid every 2 years according to the owners manual. Best thing to get is "Speed Bleeders". They make bleeding a breeze.
I wouldnt worry about the fuel filter either. They are supposed to be life of car unless it gets blocked.
Coolant is supposed to be changed every 6 years for the ZRE. Every 2 years for the ZZE. There's a drain on the engine block and the radiator in the ZZE. MAke sure you use genuine coolant though.
If you can get a break-down of what needs to be done then we can make a better opinion about it.
Updated the topic.
For a dealership, that sounds about right keeping in mind they charge ~$100+/hr for labour. And its definitely not a major service.
You can find independent workshop that could do it for cheaper but they may not use genuine parts and fluids which MAY void your car warranty.
Honestly just learn how to DIY and save the $600. Most of the time its apprentice doing the work anyways.
Can use non-Genuine provided of equivalent quality.
Just as can use non-dealer repairer, provided they are appropriately skilled. Closed that little manufacturer anticompetitive lurk down years ago…
https://www.choice.com.au/transport/cars/maintenance/article…
Hence that is why you should go to an independent workshop with much better pricing
Plenty of great workshops around that can do the job
Especially if it's now out of warranty, definitely get it done at an independent workshop.
The required work for the 80k service is Mechanic 101.
Ok. Let me find someone in the area. I have moved to my new home and have to find a workshop around the area,.
Warranty not affected by going to a non-dealer workshop. Ref ACCC.
https://www.choice.com.au/transport/cars/maintenance/article…
I agree alxr0101, however there are one advantage with going with a dealer while under warranty and a couple of years ago- good will warranty.
You're much more likely to successfully claim a good will warranty repair say 1-2 years after warranty expires if you have a full dealer service history.
@JB1:
Agreed. There are plenty examples of this in the carsguide letter section.. People who always get their cars serviced at dealers have a reasonable chance of getting something fixed under good will out of warranty. Those who dont have virtually 0 chance in most cases.
From other comments i see most people dont seem to realise this (though whether or not it's worth it is another story!)
@syousef: you realise it's not the dealer paying for it but the manufacturer?
I know because they paid half of the repair cost 2 years out of warranty.
@wozz: ignorant people are ignorant.
After my car was about 2 years out of warranty, I started taking it to an independent. Now I just service it myself for most things, the only things I don't do are brakes, timing belt and transmission fluid change. Everything else is fairly basic for DIY.
I paid $600 for a VW major service (pretty much what you just listed including cabin filter) at Ultratune. It would be cheaper for a Mazda as VW spec oil should cost more
480-600$. What do you think about log book service from a mobile mechanic?
I got $309 for mine.
LOL Look at those - Really??
Fluid Level Check and Top-Up
Sundries and Consumables
General Vehicle Inspection
Bet my left one they dont even do them and just listing them to make it look like they are doing a lot for your $600.
That list is given by mechanic as things they will do, when I requested for a quote.
True… after the oil change, coolant and brake flush, the only fluids left are transmission and wiper wash (maybe power steering fluid but I'm pretty sure power steering fluid is a thing of the past now).
Check cv joint for wear.
Check suspension for wear
Check play in steering
Check bushings for wear
Check engine mounts for wear
Check enough brake pad materials
Check handbrake is tight enough
Check that the hoses under the bonnet aren't starting to crack
Put a little bit of grease on the door hinges
It's little things but takes a but of time to check through the car to make sure nothing is going wrong. It might not be critical to the operation of the car. But when those things start to wear you start getting all sorts of squeaks and noises when you drive
I put my Mazda 3 2015 into the service calculator and for 80k service it cost $528 with engine/cabin air filter, brake fluid. $333 without those options.
Yep I just paid this at Bridgestone for my Mazda 3 - It's all in the Labour it seems.
When I read 80K in the Automotive section, I thought we'd be discussing investments…
No.. not again please! 80K is legend…dary!!
I just did 80k service from local machanic, costed $400 so $600 from Mazda is not that bad.
Why wouldnt you just pay it? car is still worth 10k, atleast look after it for its major service. Can get a $150 groupon for next 10k service
my Mazda 3, Auto, 80K log book service and I'm getting quotes around $500-$600.
<$430 and a courtesy vehicle (camry of course) from toyota.
I read the title and thought it had something to do with a high yield investment
I have my 50k Mazda 3 2012 service coming up next month. Will post back here how much it costs.
Am I the only person who calls up different dealers to get a quote before I make a booking?
I've had differences of over $200 for the same log book service between dealers.
I do that. I never go to the dealership. I know someone who worked there as manager for years and the service department were encouraged to do things which were not REALLY necessary.
From my understanding, with info I have from dealership manager of over 10 years, he said the dealership can be better for certain jobs (more complex jobs that only dealership can do) and also sometimes there is a specific tool that dealership has, that makes it faster than normal mechanic.
I often get a few quotes, then if you find that a certain mechanic is always cheapest quote, and always does a good job, then maybe stick with him/her.
My 40K service is due on friday also a major service $740 from Automasters $1100 at the dealers
I get both of our Mazda 3s (2004 Maxx Sport and a 2010 SP25) serviced at an independent mechanic. If you can find one who’s reliable and you trust it’s great!
He lets us bring our own oil and oil filter, which I buy when Repco or Super Cheap have a sale and I’ve never had a service that cost over $200, most have been around the $150 mark. When I’ve forgotten to buy them before the service, I think it’s been about $250 with oil and filter. We’ve been going to him for years and he’s great and never over services you, and I wouldn’t want to be paying a premium price at Mazda for the 17 year old apprentice to be doing all the work on my car!!
Just make sure that he put the oil that you bought into your car, not his…
I have a mazda 3 2012 (no tags/badges anywhere so not sure what model it is, definitely not sky active, 5 speed auto, keyed ignition, guessing its the neo). What oil do I use or is there an online tool that I can study in order to determine the best oil for my location?
Sorry but I cant help but laugh hearing people who take their cars to the dealer for service. Got burned by Hyundai gold coast twice in a row for sub standard service and been taking all my cars to a local mechanic ever since. Never had a single issue with the local in ten years. Especially when its his name on the building and he is the one who does the work. Typical service with The dealer used to be $350-500, local its never been over $250 unless it was a major part. Icing on the cake is taking couple beers down the workshop after he has finished and talking shit with him lol. Go with the local man, (who needs your business to survive and not some apprentice who doesnt give a crap) general no bullsh#*t advice, and realistic wear and tear eta/longevity for part replacement.
This is a big eye-opener for me. From my next service, I will go to autoguru and have a look around & select a service for my lovely 4 wheels & save me a good $100 or so.
This is the main reason manufacturers do not want to produce electric vehicles, they don't require any servicing outside brake fluid and coolant every 3 years. Dealerships simply wont sell them as there's no service revenue for them.
Just wait till your 105k service