Some Car Buying Assistance Required

Brief backstory:
Partner and I currently own a large car (2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara) and a 50cc scooter. Having moved house, the scooter is no longer a viable transport option.

We’ve decided we want to sell our car/scooter, and get two smaller cars instead. Ideally one would be quite small (2-3 door for transporting one person and occasionally more) and the other would be a bit bigger (5 door transporting 2 adults and 2 dogs in the back seat, like perhaps a Mazda 3)

We’re looking at around the $5,000 to $7,000 mark for both cars, so a budget of around $14,000 for both, and would buy second hand.

Generally, I’d like some advice in how to split that $14,000 budget ($7k/$7k, or $5k/$9k) and the types of cars that are known to have decent reliability without being too expensive (it’s a tradeoff, but some general tips on what to avoid in that sort of price range)

Specifically, we’re able to purchase a 2007 Honda Jazz Auto for $5,500 (~80,000 km’s) , and just want to know whether this is something that is likely to require lots of repairs.

Unfortunately we’re both a bit clueless when it comes to cars, so even pointing me in the direction of some resources to read online would be very much appreciated.

Comments

  • +2

    Rolla/yaris and Camry

  • Lotsa folks I know seem to think Hyundai is the direction to go..
    As a work car, for shorter trips, they suggested used Getz.

    In SA, the EV ass’n has experience converting even New Getz’s
    to Electric.

    The car world is soon to be EV based, get a head start…

    Contact your local AEVA branch & get an idea of how
    hard it might be, to convert your car into a charge-@-Home EV.

  • +1

    Jump on Carsales or any online car market sites.
    Find cars that you are interested in.

    Use this to find out Basic info of car like VIN (will need either VIN or rego plates)
    https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/registration/buy-sell-or-tra…
    Make sure car details matches up. If they don’t, seller got something to hide.

    Then use the VIN to do this check for a fee of $3.40
    https://transact.ppsr.gov.au/ppsr-mobile/QMVS

    Your mainly after information about: Stolen status, if it’s under finance and if it’s a write off, repairable write off etc.

    Strongly recommend not buying any previously write offs. If it doesn’t past the above checks, don’t bother wasting your time. Move on to next car.
    Only inspect the ones that check out.
    If it’s under finance and you go inspect it personally and still interested, ask the seller about it’s financial circumstance. A test to see what seller says. If they lie to you, best walk away because they probably lie to you about other things for a sale. If they say it’s under finance, ask for the banking insitution and how much outstanding.
    Your best way forward from this is on settlement day is to go with the seller to the bank you pay them or watch the seller pay them.
    Then give the seller the remaining money if any. DO NOT trust them to pay it themselves. Worse case is they don’t make their repayments and the bank will come seize the car even if it’s under someone else name.

    If the car isn’t under finance, even better. When you put down a deposit, need to make write up a statement of deposit with appropriate details like name, license number, address, deposit amount, date, time and signed by both parties. Each party gets a copy.
    Then on settlement day another statement with the same details as above. This is very important to protect yourself from any infringements or tolls committed by the previous owner after ownership transfer.

    When inspecting a car look for any new parts in the engine bay (assuming this an old car). If one area is newer then the rest like new screws, bolts, headlights etc. could mean it’s had an accident on that side.
    Go under and check the reo/support beams if it’s bent or not.
    Look very carefully at each panels to see if they match up. Observe the clear coat to see they all match (one is shiny/duller then the rest).
    Check for leaks, fluid levels etc.
    During test driving turn off music to listen for usual sounds. Drive over speed humps to test suspensions. Drive 80-100km to listen for loose parts.
    Let the car idle till you hear raditor fan kick in to check it’s working.
    Turn on AC to check it’s coldness level.

    Or you could pay a professional mechanic to check it over for you 😁

    • That's excellent info, thanks so much for taking the time to write it all out!

  • If one is a runabout car get a cheap car such as pulsar/corolla/excel which will give you a bit more money for a family car

  • +1

    I'd recommend keeping the vitara and purchasing another small car. A grand vitara is not a large car. It probably uses a bit more fuel than other similar sized sedan or hatch though. The costs of changing to a smaller car will be offset by the risk of buying a used car you have no idea of history on.

    If you don't know cars, stick with what you've got unless there are things starting to go wrong with it.

    Can't go past a small toyota for reliability, or keep it in the family and get a Suzuki Swift.

    • I second the swift, although there is nothing wrong with the Jazz neither.

      • don't mix it up though and look for Swaft and a J…

    • +1

      Don't need to change the vitara if there're no major issues

    • Agreed, you've covered everything I would've said :)

  • check something like this https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/camden-park/cars-vans-utes/t… . know the owner very fuzzy with his car and maintenance…..

  • 12 months ago we bought my sons first car, it is a red 4 door Mazda 3 Sedan, can't remember how many kms it had done but was average. He paid $7,000. There were also plenty of 5 door hatches which I prefer the shape of but he wanted a sedan. The Mazdas are very popular so it's easy to get second hand parts. I recently knocked the side mirror off my Mazda 2 and the smash repairers just bought the whole side mirror section in the same colour and fitted it (about $200, I was going to claim it on my insurance but cost was less than my excess). I've had my Mazda since 2012 and son 12 months, haven't had any repairs other than standard servicing, brakes and tyres.

    I'd recommend a Mazda 3 Hatch and a Madza 2 Hatch and split it $8,000 and $6,000 as low km as you can get. My Mazda 2 is such a petrol miser $45 per week to travel 40 minutes five days a week, it the perfect commuter car.

    Essential you get a REVS check and make sure you check the VIN number on the vehicle yourself. Highly recommend and pre purchase inspection. Garages can do these and NRMA does mobile inspections for about $300. It sounds like a lot but they can tell you if the vehicle has been in a smash or has any issues. We purchased a Holden station wagon and didn't get it inspected. It had major issues costing us $1500 over six months, not to mention it being a major pain in the *ss.

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