Which Home Automation Devices?

Hi all, building a new house and would like to incorporate some smart features.

What do you all suggest is the best method for controlling the lights?

And what other smart features would you put in when building new?

Thanks for any suggestions!

Comments

  • +3

    Smart switches not smart bulbs so you can always turn them on and off from your device.

    Upgrade garage door opener to wifi model.

    • yes if building, switches over bulbs for sure!!

    • Same. I am looking for switches but all the reputable networking brands (ie. Ubiquiti, TPLink) are 120v only.

      :(

      • +1

        If only the Sonoff range of switches were certified :|

      • This is the ones i use -
        https://capitalsmarthomes.com.au/products/aeon-labs-z-wave-p…

        Not a switch but a device you wire behind your existing switch.

        They're one of the few on the market that work with AU voltage (220) and wiring (2 wire).

        Annoyingly expensive and take a fair bit of work to wire in, but after that they're gold!
        Just gotta make sure they're not too far from your z-wave hub when pairing.

        • I contemplated the Fibaro system. I think they're quite similar but the physical switch has to remain on the on position. That part, like the smart bulb systems, annoys the crap out of me.

          The smart switches do not have a physical on and off position, just LEDs indicating on or off. Just a neater finish imo.

        • @tshow:

          I believe the fibaro are the other types that work here, as well as aeon labs (but are more expensive). You definitely dont need to keep the switch in the on position with the dimmer devices, the lights work both via the switch (as a toggle) and via the z-wave interface, plus phone plus alexa, etc.

        • @dimitryp:
          Wouldn't the physical position of the switch be wrong at certain times? Ie, if the switches were turned off but I turn it on via WiFi/IFTTT?

          I've never seen one work in person. So far, I have Hue, LifX and Nanoleaf (just for fun).

    • Smart switches not smart bulbs so you can always turn them on and off from your device.

      Disagree for at least some of them, particularly in the lounge/bedroom. The ability to dim and change colour with a smart bulb makes them much more useful than simple on/off.

      • But you can add a smart bulb later. At the building stage you can save money by not buying a dumb switch and not paying an electrician. It's something I wish I had done, especially for rooms with downlights.

        But yeah, each device has its place. You don't need a smart bulb/switch in the pantry or linen cupboard (unless you're automating with sensors).

        • Yeah, if you are wiring things up then making that wiring sensible is obviously a good move (and structured wiring for data as well, and even maybe 5v DC wiring).

          If I were building new I might be tempted to move away from monolithic bulbs mainly and wire lots of LEDs directly into the ceiling to give a better diffuse overall light, maybe with individual RGB control. With no concentration of light you don't get the heat problem (and thus limited lifespan) and you can control the light where you want it.

        • You don't need a smart bulb/switch in the pantry or linen cupboard (unless you're automating with sensors).

          Wouldn't that be a simple press switch from the door being closed that when opened automatically turns on the light. No need for fancy sensors.

        • @Agret: We have a dumb as dirt mechanical switch that turns on the pantry light when we open the door and turns it off when we close it. Thing has been running fine for the last 25 years.

        • @try2bhelpful: Yep that's exactly what I was referring to when I said 'press switch' as in mechanically pressed in by the door when closed & door is held in place by a small magnet. Not sure why anyone would overcomplicate that with smart home technology :) we have the same thing running fine at our place for over 20yrs also.

    • Thanks for your reply

      Sorry can you clarify what you mean that you can always turn on and off from your device if they're switches but not with bulbs?

      • +1

        If you have Wifi bulbs, as soon as you flip the light switch on the wall to OFF your bulb disappears from all services as it has no power.

        If you have a Wifi light switch, the button on the wall turns it ON and OFF and your phone/AppleTV/Google Home/Alexa can turn it ON and OFF too at any time.

        • +2

          It's perfect when you want to exit a room. Instead of simply walking out and pressing the switch off - you get to take out your phone, load the app and then turn it off. Or you can argue with Alexa/Google home for 5 seconds. And remember to tell your guests NOT to turn the switch off at the wall.

          Honestly, this technology doesn't currently broaden usability at the moment - it moves it to another medium that has opens up opportunity for frustration. Give me the wall switch.

        • @Smatters 14: There are now smart nano switches (like Aeotec Z-Wave Dual Nano Switch) that sits under/ behind the wall switch and no matter if the switch is off or on you can use the automation.

        • @Smatters 14:

          Haha, so true.

          It’s even worse when you have a cold/sore throat and the last thing you want to do is speak, but now Alexa can’t understand you, I’d rather move to a dumb home.

        • Ah ok got you. Thanks. Makes a lot of sense

          Which smart switch would you recommend?

        • @jamestownfx:

          have a look at my comment at top of thread

        • @dimitryp:
          Awesome - thank you!

          Sorry I missed your comment before

  • Its not what you asked but, usb power points. Think about where you place/charge devices or might want to.

    • +5

      We just bought a house and I originally planned on USB power points everywhere and I'm comfortable changing power points. Honestly I looked at the cost and it's $35 EACH dual plug/dual USB power point (and has a massive transformer in the back that might not fit in your wall) vs $55 for 10 pack of dual plug packs at bunnings. You can get power bars with USB plugs for the office desk and $10 at Target for dual USB 2.4 / 1A adapters for the bedroom plugs. A couple of USB power points I'm sure is justified but around the entire house is way too much.

    • Do they make them for USB-C and USB Power Delivery yet?

      • +2

        Yeah, personally I would avoid USB power outlets. They are fine until the next level of technology hits the market and then they become an ornament. We busily wired outlets through our home and then wireless became cheap and reliable. We now have a bunch of outlets that do nada and a bunch of wiring under the house.

  • +4

    Coming from some one who bought a house and retrofitted…

    • I have smart bulbs for some areas but the problem is that most of them are E27, which I hate (and I'm from NA). Most smart bulbs turn on normally like a regular bulb when you switch from off to on with a regular switch. For example, I have a smart bulb at our front door and a motion sensor. After dark, motion sense = light on. Auto off after 7 minutes. Force the light on by long press on the "door bell" smart switch.
    • Get new a new electronic smart lock for the front door. You can set pin codes for visitors and set rules for unlocking when you arrive home.
    • Smart plugs are handy… but the plugs are surprisingly not super useful. I have 2 and use one for automatically charging the power tool batteries while solar is on. Other one is just a power monitor.
    • Temp and humidity sensors are really cool and simple. You can use them to give warnings like high fridge temp (had a couple of fridges fail and power go off that gave me this fear).
    • Put a couple of water leak sensors under the dishwasher and washing machine with an SMS alarm.
    • Avoid anything Z-Wave until they are more common in Australia. You'll be tempted to buy Z-Wave stuff from the US but it won't work here.
    • +3

      Thanks for your insightful contribution. I'll be sure to throw away my very convenient Philips Hue setup right away.

      • +1

        I'm seeing some gold comments today, yours was one of them - thank you!

  • If you're starting from scratch, while I'm not familiar with it I may suggest the Phillips Hue.

    I have 5 LIFX Globes, which have the benefit of being directly connected to WiFi, but they're more expensive as individual globes.

    • LIFX are good if you just want a few globes. If you want to fit your entire house, then I'd suggest the phillips hue as they are usually cheaper per globe.

  • +1

    Firstly I suggest think from a setup prospective. Multiple smart switches from different brand will not be useful, you may have to download multiple apps to control. Firstly you need a setup or command centre i.e. Smart Home controller that will control all your smart devices. You have multiple options like Vera, Samsung Smarthings (they are not fully compatible here in AUS) or your own setup (this is what I use) Raspberry Pi + Z Wave stick + Home Assistant (https://www.home-assistant.io/).

    Start with small setup and add more devices to your setup.

    I agree with others, use smart switches where possible.

  • im going to get this system soon http://www.pushcontrols.com/home.html

  • Has anyone had experience with the MyLights system?

    • The Advantage Air thing? Looks good but last I checked it didn't do what I wanted eg no integration with the likes of Google home, no ability to automate scenes via external sensors eg motion, doors, etc.

      C-bus is still the standard, but expensive. I'd use zwave eg aeotec for the lights and Lockwood zwave locks for external doors. Consider auto blinds - at least ensure have power sockets near windows. Also power sockets outside for cameras (or run cabling to central spot) and power near doors for doorbell eg Ring.

      • Yeah the Advantage Air thing. Interesting that it doesn't integrate with Google Home etc. Not sure on the price but I've heard it's reasonable.

        Seems like there really isn't the perfect solution just yet

  • Put in plenty of conduits in the walls, every room.
    This way down the track you can cable up HDMI's, data and coax.
    Put in way more than you think you need.
    They are easy to cover up if you don't want them, but they are a mission to put in.
    Also try and plan ahead a space for a small data cabinet.
    Mine is in my linen press, but if you're doing a new build you may be able to dedicate a space.
    This is for running all of your data back to, installing a switch and distributing network throughout your home.
    Also leave space for cctv down the line.
    electronic smart lock is one of the best things I have bought.
    We use a couple of wemo smart switches for controlling lamps around the house with LED bulbs.(wemo's can be a bit of a pain however)
    On at sunset, off at bedtime. They are our main area lighting now and cost nothing to run.
    I built my data network for about $600 including switch, patch panel, cable etc.
    I'm a cabler so did the work myself, but if you get the builders to do it you'll definately pay less than down the line.
    Go with a bigger patch panel than you need for future expansion. ie if you need 12, get a 24.

  • Smart switches.

    Magnetic hardwired door relay for exterior doors.

    Run 20g.a. wire to put in some hardwired pir sensors.

    Consider running wire for main electronic m smart door lock if not wanting battery powered.

    Can run conduit lots of it. Save some money and diy everything yourself slowly over time.

    Decide where patch panel is. Have power points in that cupboard and run the fibre there too. Get a power point in the attic. Get at least one outside power point for garden work etc.

    Look into home assistant software.

    • Thanks - which smart switches do you recommend?

      • I only have retrofitted sonoff switches which i would not recommend because they are not au/nz compliant.

        If i was building new (and wanted to go Hardcore into home automation) id look into getting all the switch plates to be dumb simple switches and hardwired in a star configuration to a central controller and all the lights wired back in a star configuration to the central controller's relays then have a good quality led driver behind that. You'd want it to use mqtt.

        It would be expensive to pay someone to do it for you.

        The other option is to have a smart switch at each power point.

        Have a central controller with "dumb" smart switches would give you more flexibility as any switch in the house could be changed to perform any function or turn on and off any light rather than with regular smart switches which are locked into only controlling the light they are hard wired to. However having said that some smart switches may be able to seperate the switch function from the relay function so you can repurpose them.

        I definitely recommend against using smart globes as the sole way of controlling the light, they would only be useful if you needed dimmer or colour functions and the smart switch wasn't able to do that for you. If you turn off a smart globe at the wall you can't turn it back on again. If you turn a smart globe off at the globe then you need to click the wall switch twice to turn it back on.

  • You could consider smart HVAC systems and others at Madimack since you're building a new home.

  • Trying to use smart globes will severely limit your choice of light fittings. A lot of fittings these days have built in LEDs.

    Doing it via the switches is a better option, but it's expensive and still a bit tricky. I'm using zwave stuff, which ends up costing about $100 per dimmer/$50 per switch. With low power light fittings you might need a bypass as well which makes it more expensive. You also need a controller which is a couple of hundred.

    The option I took was to get all the switch wiring put in conduit. That allows me to retrofit things piecemeal.

    Don't touch the cheap Chinese stuff from the likes of Aliexpress or Banggood unless you can take it apart and verify it's safety yourself. Most of it is downright dangerous.

  • how do the above products and systems compare with Xiaomi products, are they on different levels by a long way?

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