CPU Cores Running at 100 Degrees C!

ayad on 27/10/2018 - 14:06
Last edited 27/10/2018 - 15:39 by 1 other user

Hi!

Recently I noticed my PC being loud since i stopped using headphones. I ran HWMonitor and these were the results

Mind you, these are the results after a good clean and new thermal paste layer - i used arctic silver 5. Yet these temperatures seem really high. Really need help determining a fixing this issue as i believe it's been going on for months and surprised it's lasted this long. Please help any way you can. Thank you.

CPU: i7 4790K 4.0GHz
RAM: 16GB DDR3
GPU: GTX970
Motherboard: ASRock Z97X Killer
Main boot: Intel SSD

Computing Computer Computer Component CPU Desktop Computer Fan

Comments

  • myusername on 27/10/2018 - 15:53

    so wait you have an i7 with just the stock standard cooler?

    get yourself some liquid cooling or a noctua cooler on there.

    that stock standard cooler is as efficient as you blowing on the chip

    • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 16:33

      hahah oh god. 4 years of gaming demanding titles it help up pretty well. it definitely deserves an upgrade

      • myusername on 27/10/2018 - 16:39

        i'm not having a go at you please dont think that.

        i always have a laugh when you see people selling 'gaming pc's' on fakebook marketplace with stock standard coolers.

        How many fans do you have on your case? do you have any on the top on the case? on the front of the case? from the pic it only looks like you got one at the back.

        maybe add a couple fans on top of the case and on or 2 on the front to improve the airflow in your case, especially with summer coming on.

        • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 16:40
          +1

          haha trust me man, i don't get offended like that all g
          I have an intake fan at the front and 2 exhaust fans - one big one at the top and a smaller one (same size as intake at the back)

          • myusername on 27/10/2018 - 16:45

            @ayad: does it feel like there's decent circulation?

            can you feel the air coming out of the top of the case?

            • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 16:48

              @myusername: it's not strong but i can feel it. and i don't have anything to compare it to so it's kinda hard

              i put one square of tissue roll and it did some kool 360s and fell off so that's the strength
              the front intake wasn't able to keep it stuck. the back exhaused is definitely the strongest

  • Diji1 on 27/10/2018 - 16:47

    Mind you, these are the results after a good clean and new thermal paste layer

    How did you apply thermal paste which I will refer to as TIM (thermal interface material) from now on? If you use too much it can be much less effective than using too little.

    You want to use a really small amount like a couple of rice grains. Then let the cooler spread it when you put it on.

    Having "too little" TIM, meaning it hasn't spread all the way to the edges of the cooler and heatspreader, is better than having the TIM come out from the sides - provided the centre of the heatsink and heat spreader is covered. This is where almost all the heat is transferred because the CPU is smaller than the heatspreader which is what you are pressing the cooler against).

    The aim is to have just enough TIM to fill the invisible bumps and indentations on the two surfaces and not have a layer of TIM above those.

    • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 16:52

      https://imgur.com/a/KeTbymt

      that's how much i used

      • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 16:54

        not real dimension info but it's about half the height of pea…….

        • HighAndDry on 29/10/2018 - 14:06

          It needs to be a rice-grain sized blob. IN 3D. Not a flat layer that's rice-grain sized.

          So look at how big a rice of grain is, and you need the same volume of thermal paste, in 3 dimensions.

      • myusername on 27/10/2018 - 16:55

        about the size of a pea?

        • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 16:56

          i think a bit less in volume maybe 85% that of a pea

        • johnno07 on 29/10/2018 - 11:21

          Pea sized is way too much - grain of rice sized should do you fine for these size chips.

  • Claggs on 27/10/2018 - 17:11
    +1

    By the sounds of it you'd be best to take it to a professional to have the machine looked at. They will be able to replace the thermal paste and ensure that everything (such as the sensors in the correct range) is working as expected.

  • Jugganautx on 27/10/2018 - 17:24
    -3

    This guy has no clue about the inside of his pc… why would you recommend water cooling ffs lmao.

    • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 17:26
      -1

      bit exaggerated but ok lol. i built it 4 years ago and haven't done anything since. just need a refresher

      • Godric on 27/10/2018 - 18:18
        +5

        I wouldn't say exaggerated tbh, a refresher isn't required to be able to identify what a CPU cooler is

    • Hybroid on 27/10/2018 - 17:27
      +1

      If you can re-install a stock cooler, you can install a closed loop water cooling unit. It's exactly the same process.

      • HighAndDry on 29/10/2018 - 14:09
        -1

        Unfortunately OP doesn't seem to be able to do the first…………… I'm mostly worried because OP has a pretty nice (and expensive) system and he might end up bricking it.

    • [Deactivated] on 27/10/2018 - 17:48
      +1

      Yep, should be delidding.

    • That Guy on 29/10/2018 - 09:48
      +1

      A closed loop cooler was recommended. If you can install a cpu cooler you can install a closed loop cooler.
      You are now in the same category having 'no clue' lmao

  • DiscoJango on 27/10/2018 - 18:02
    -1

    sounds like your thermal paste has dried up/incorrectly applied. take the cpu fan off, take the cpu out. wipe all previous thermal paste off. put a drop on, and re-seat everything. otherwise you got some sort of virus causing your cpu to run at 100%. try a fresh format.

    • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 18:16

      i did all of that and it did help a bit. I noticed in the BIOS the temp is 70 degrees. This is abnormally high right? maybe it is a virus…

      • DiscoJango on 27/10/2018 - 18:54

        to put into perspective, currently my mobo is 29deg, cpu 37, hdd 28 and gpu 42

        • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 18:56

          yeah something is definitely not right. just don't know man. well gonna fresh install + updates to rule out malicious software. if that doesn't work then new cpu cooler and if that doesn't work then i'm buying a Ma..nvm i'll keep trying

    • John Kimble on 27/10/2018 - 18:17
      +1

      He thinks 50 open browser tabs is normal.
      https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/6513481/redir

      • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 18:19

        i don't. just wanted to stress it. i usually do that and have done that in the past without these effects. not sure what we're getting out of this lol

        • John Kimble on 27/10/2018 - 18:20
          +1

          Oh OK, fair enough. But there are probably better ways to do it.

          • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 18:21

            @John Kimble: yes i have prime95 this is just a quick dirty way to test lol but yeah you're right

  • MagicOZ on 27/10/2018 - 18:39
    +2

    Do have any crypto miners running in background?

    • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 18:43

      honestly this is what i'm paranoid about. I've been thinking someone is hijacking my PC to mine crypto…..

      • DiscoJango on 27/10/2018 - 18:56

        just do you format then. with windows on usb installing onto an ssd youll be back up and running in less than 30 minutes.

      • greatlamp on 29/10/2018 - 12:26

        Download ubuntu iso and run it from usb (use the pendrivelinux tool to make a bootable usb)

        Once its up you can look for a cpu monitoring app and check if you get the same results

      • HighAndDry on 29/10/2018 - 14:10

        You can just run task-manager and see your CPU utilization. There's nothing to be 'paranoid' about, you can't hide CPU activity level.

  • zrmx on 27/10/2018 - 19:44

    If you are after a cooler (which is a strongly recommended upgrade over intel's stock), the DeepCool GAMMAXX 400 is a very good value and sufficient cooler (considering you aren't overclocking) if it can fit in your case. http://staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=gammaxx+400&spo…

    Good luck.

  • This Guy on 27/10/2018 - 20:48
    +9

    There is a fair bit of wrong information in this thread.

    First, update HWmonitor. this is your issue. TJ MAX is 98C on Haswell. Your processor would be dead at 100C. Your version of HWMonitor does not support Haswell (your CPU). delta T changed from Ivy Bridge to Haswell. HWMonitor fixed this up a few months after release. Your CPU is running late 80's C. Your CPU will thermal throttle low 90's C.

    Your CPU cooler does not need an update. You have an 84W CPU that has been running stable for four years. Your CPU cooler is a medium height genuine intel with copper base and a phase change chamber. That cooler can get a little noisy, but upgrading while running at stock clocks is a waste. Your stress test workload is 76W (if using prime95 I would expect it to hit ~95W instead and thermal throttle).

    Your CPU cooler did not need a re-seat. Three pins at full pressure is enough. Two pins at full pressure on opposite sides should be enough. Your cooler has redundancy built into it as amateurs build PC's so it needs to be idiot proof (not because amateurs are dumb, but because they don't know what they need to know).

    Vcore is fine as you are running at 4.2GHz

    A 16GB DDR3 1.5V kit (2x 8GB sticks) would be a worth while upgrade. 8GB is a little low for someone who wants to open 50 tabs in Firefox. If it won't boot with both the current ram and the new ram, just run the new ram. Fancy looking RAM like you have installed will make no difference.

    Don't update your BIOS firmware. It is not worth the risk if you screw it up, and from what you have said there is nothing wrong with it.

    Overclocking after 4 years will affect stability. Your board already unlocks turbo for all cores (you may loose that if you update your BIOS' firmware). You would only expect 100 to 200 MHz more (5% max) on this CPU and you would need a better cooler. Not worth it.

    Cheap coolers use cheap electroplating. That shiny finish on cheap or no name coolers tends to corrode from finger oils after a few years.

    You don't need water cooling. Closed loops are barely more efficient than big air, while adding a point of failure that can kill your computer.

    From memory, difference in putting too much thermal paste and the right amount is around 3 degrees C with artic silver 5 when using big air. Your cooler should push excess paste out around your CPU if you put on to much. Silver 5 doesn't set and is a poor electrical conductor. It's far safer to put on a little too much than not enough. If you care about 3 degrees C delid your CPU. Silver 5 is also already far better than the genuine intel thermal pads/paste that came with that cooler.

    • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 21:03

      i dl the latest version and checked for a new version via Tools in the program. I could use another program to compare results?

      I do have 16GB ram.

      I just prepared a drive with the latest BIOS.I literally have the first release from 4 years ago. If done correctly, would you say it's worth it? when i boot into the BIOS menu, it registers 70 degrees.

      • This Guy on 27/10/2018 - 21:09
        +1

        I will download the latest version and check. I am running 1.28 which is a few versions after the fix.

        I will check if I over clocked my RAM. 3.58W seems low for 16GB.

        Don't update your BIOS. You have allcore turbo unlocked on your current firmware. Intel demanded that allcore turbo unlock be removed from updated BIOS's. I will check your release notes, but it may not be in it.

        • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 21:22

          thank you bro much appreciated. lmk.

          • This Guy on 27/10/2018 - 22:10
            +1

            @ayad: My temps correlate with yours. My case is way too dusty and is trapping heat.

            My RAM is overclocked, hence it is using a fair bit more power than yours (and why I thought you only had 8GB). I feel like an idiot.

            Updating your BIOS will patch your CPU against some spectre attacks, however it will reduce your performance. No notes on allcore. However a hacker needs complete control of your PC to use spectre, and then would not need to use spectre. I still suggest not updating.

            Intel may have adjusted delta T with the updated microcode, and HWMonitor might have made adjustments too. TJ Max on Haswell is 98C, and I hit 99C, you hit 100C. HWMonitor is wrong.

        • This Guy on 27/10/2018 - 21:32
          +1

          I am running a 4770k with allcore turbo unlocked. Mine was clocked to 4.4GHz for two year before becoming unstable. Now I just run allcore.

          I got 99 degrees C on Core #1 and Package and 106.9W @ 4GHz after installing HWMonitor 1.37, running Prime95 In-place large FFTs. It was 80 degrees and 90W stable before updating. For reference, 108 degrees C (reported in HWMonitor) was safe before HWMonitor supported Haswell.

          I have a Noctua NH-U14S with a second 14" fan. Nothing else heated up (GPU, HDD/SSD, Case). My three case fans are running fine, but my rear fan is showing under 700rpm like yours (it should stall at those speeds). It seems like a bug in HWMonitor.

          • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 22:20

            @This Guy: dude that's a huge cooler lol…it could really just be cooling then. i mean you have a good cooler i have stock

            • SecondSkoll on 27/10/2018 - 23:22

              @ayad: The Noctua NH-D15 is a slightly better Noctua CPU cooler if you're looking at that range. This Guy has the older version that supports a second fan, and has added one- but the NH-D15 comes with a second fan and a slightly better heat-sink to go with it.

              The Coolermaster 212X is only slightly less effective than the Noctua NH-U14S, and the large price and fairly low performance difference between that and the big fat NH-D15 means the Coolermaster 212X is the usual standard for an upgrade over the stock Intel cooler.

              • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 23:37

                @SecondSkoll: ok ok, considering Coolermaster 212X and full NH-U12S. Just wanna know how it compares to something like this https://www.pccasegear.com/products/35966/corsair-hydro-seri…

                • SecondSkoll on 27/10/2018 - 23:44

                  @ayad: Watercooling is always going to be more effective. You will get much better temperatures wit ha water cooled system, but there are a few drawbacks.

                  Water cooling requires maintenance, usually expertise and having water in and around your computer comes with a fair few risks to yourself and your hardware.

                  I don't know the pros and cons of that particular model, but I know it is a popular one.

          • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 22:21

            @This Guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbcimkmNi-c this is it right??

      • SecondSkoll on 27/10/2018 - 23:15
        +1

        This Guy really know his stuff, and from my experience I would agree with him.

        Unless you've changed anything in your system recently there's only a few reasons for a change in noise. I would say either a temperature increase due to ambient temperatures- Aussie summer can have a fair effect on air cooled systems or some fans rely on power from PWM sensors that run on a line that can have a dodgy connection, stuff like that. (but HWmonitor will show you fans running at really high speeds though)

        Intel stock cooler is fine if you don't overclock- they stopped giving them out with the chips that needed more effective cooling. Anyone who laughs at you for having an i7 and a stock cooler is a bit silly, as it's been working perfectly for 4 years.

        Your CPU will thermal throttle in the 90 degree range and will shutoff if it reaches a high enough temperature, so don't stress it's not doing that.

        Updating your bios can be quite annoying, and it may or may not help with the issue- as it may just be a dodgy sensor or connection.

        In the end though, are you sure it's any louder? If the only thing you've noticed is the noise because you're stopped using headphones- that could mean the system is running as it always has been.

        • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 23:26

          hmm.. i don't recall changing anything major. I did change something to do with virutal memory to system allocated or something as i have 16GB ram but that was after all these issues.

          the fans have fun at high speeds i mean the cpu fan reached 1994rpm, fan 1 973 and fan 2 652rpm which seem high for big exhaust fans?

          yeah i'm definitely sure it's louder because with headphones on is when i sorta started noticing and with them off i can just tell it's uncomfortable louder. I'd open one tab and hear the fans go crazy then calm down.

          OH and idk if this makes a difference but sometimes i just chill on the bed and on its own, the PC will literally go crazy i.e. fans spin pretty fast. And if i put it to sleep 60% of the time it turns on by itself and the fans run as if underload. Then the weird thing is when i place any input e.g. move mouse or tap keys, the fans slow down.. it's why i'm paranoid that someone has hijacked my pc…lol.. it gives me scrap cpu power when i come back onto the pc and when i'm not there it full abuses my cpu.. i'm going crazy..

          • SecondSkoll on 27/10/2018 - 23:41

            @ayad: I had a system with a 4970K in it a while ago and I ended up with a crack in one of the processor cores. I don't think that is what's happened here, as I had different weirdness with my monitoring software and just general issues- but it might end up being something to do with your CPU.

            On closer inspection TMPIN5 shows 71/72 degrees and that means its not working either or its lower than your CPU temperature. The way your CPU is downclocking it looks like it is hitting the thermal throttle limit around 90 degrees, but it's not shutting off.

            In terms of 'fixing' the problem it's a matter of time or money. Having someone with compatible parts Parts means you can swap things in and out to see which parts are the problem, but it's unlikely to be software based when there are multiple red flags.

            I would re-seat the cooler and go a bit wild with the paste, the amount in your photo is usually fine it's better to try something you can do without spending money before you:

            • Get a new CPU fan (Which might not solve the problem at all)
            • Get a new CPU (Which will be expensive, the 4970k is pretty much still the same price it was)
            • Try and get the CPU repaired (You could try this through intel, it might be out of warranty but they do have really good customer support for CPUs)
            • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 23:54

              @SecondSkoll: :(

              okay I'll try that. I'm gonna fresh install now see what that does. i got win 10 when it was free so wondering how i go about fresh installing onto a new ssd?

              • This Guy on 28/10/2018 - 09:54

                @ayad: SecondSkoll is right, something weird is happening here. You shouldn't be thermal throttling at 82% utility with a genuine intel heatsink using firefox. TMPIN5 might be your voltage regulators.

                I recommend you take SecondSkoll's first option, replace the CPU heatsink. zrmx has found you the Deepcool GAMMAXX 200T which retails for under $20. It will see your PC out. If you want to go over kill, get the 400 zrmx recommended, they are under $35.

                As for Firefox using so much power, please post a few screen shots (type "snip" with the start menu open then click on Snipping Tool)

                Open task Manager (press CTRL + ALT + DELETE all at the same time. it's the bottom option).

                Click on More Details at the very bottom

                Use Snippping Tool to capture all Apps and Background Processes (you will need to scroll and take multiple screen shots) - click for video

                In Firefox press CTRL + SHIFT + A (it will open your add on list). Screen shot what you have open in it with Snipping Tool

                Reply to me or PM me the link so I can find your images.

                • ayad on 28/10/2018 - 17:24

                  @This Guy: Let me know if you need anything else

                  https://imgur.com/a/j1DFz8n

                  • This Guy on 28/10/2018 - 18:25
                    +1

                    @ayad: Try replacing Adblocker for Youtube and Adblocker Ultimate for uBlock Origin. That should significantly reduce your load when you open up 50 tabs.

                    You have some old stuff running, like an updater for tribes ascend, but nothing I would be worried about.

                    I haven't used AVG to clean the registry before. I would assume it would be safe.

                    If you go into Task Manager > More Details and click on the Start Up tab, you can select which programs you want to run from start up by right clicking on them

                    I would review the files avast wants to delete before deleting.

                    tl;dr change your adblocker to uBlock and see if that makes a difference

                    • ayad on 28/10/2018 - 18:26

                      @This Guy: Got some shots of the BIOS maybe a setting needs to be changed here? perhaps multi core enhancement

                      https://imgur.com/a/2atzmDe

                      • This Guy on 28/10/2018 - 18:41
                        +1

                        @ayad: Nothing to touch.

                        I would leave multi core enhancement disabled unless you upgrade your cooler. That said, it looked like it's on in HWMonitor.

                        I would not worry about PLL Overvoltage, your PC has been stable for four years.

                        PCH 1.05V sitting at 1.08V should be fine. Most voltages are +/- 5%.

                        I would leave the RAM at 1.333GHz as it's four years old

    • Thaal Sinestro on 28/10/2018 - 02:19

      I remember reading a review about the different ways of applying thermal paste and the effect on temperature. The most effective method of apply thermal paste was creating an X shape. I used that on my latest build. When overclocked (& overvolted to make the overclock stable) and running all cores at 100%, a CPU gets very hot very fast.

    • Quotationz on 30/10/2018 - 00:10

      Who overclocks with a stock cooler??

      • This Guy on 01/11/2018 - 11:44

        OP said he was upgrading his cooler. Some reply's talked about overclocking.

        OP's HWMonitor results also looked like all core turbo was enabled by default in their BIOS.

  • kaleidoscope on 27/10/2018 - 21:50
    +1

    Could be sign of few things.
    1. Cpu fan not working properly
    2. Cpu and heat sink is not fully in contact
    3. Exhaust fans are not good enough

    100c is quite unusual… you’re lucky it hasnt toasted anytbing else by now. I’d a full disassembly and try things out on a test bench to see they’re working properly.
    Long ago i did an experiment with old system (2007-2008). My amd cpu died at 106c and permantly damaged the zif socket as well.

    Cheers,

    • ayad on 27/10/2018 - 22:10

      this is all kinda scary now… can't let it die. if fresh install and new cooler doesn't work then i'm just gonna get someone to have a look at it as it's my first time deal with this. already tried what i can do

      • kaleidoscope on 27/10/2018 - 23:44
        -1

        Try the test bench to see if you can find out what the issue is. Test bench is basically just plugging board, cpu and sink and vga to post and see everything works well and it’s stable. You will need to take out the board from case. Make sure you dont place the board on a metalic or conductive surface when powering on or otherwise it will be a fireworks show 🤦‍♂️. (Motherboard box’s underside is goodand thats where i did all my bench tests)

        Also be careful with static electricity from ur body when touching board’s internals…

        If unsure get a friend’s help who knows things. Cheers

    • [Deactivated] on 27/10/2018 - 22:50
      +1

      By 'experiment', do you mean no CPU fan?

      • kaleidoscope on 27/10/2018 - 23:37

        Pretty much… booted it up to bios and temperature monitor screen, then pulled the sink off cpu. I thought the board should cut off power if cpu gets dangerously hot but lt instead the cpu died and intense heat damaged the socket. 😂.

  • Wolfofwallstreet on 28/10/2018 - 01:26

    Best solution is to buy an AMD CPU.

    • idonotknowwhy on 28/10/2018 - 17:25

      If buying a new system, definitely. But he just needs you reseat his cooler and problem solved.
      No purchases required.

      • ayad on 28/10/2018 - 17:58

        here's cooler position and fan placements

        I a resat the cooler again checking also thermal pate coverage which pretty much covered the whole chip. It did result in about 5 degrees cooler but this is also with a completely open case so i wouldn't imagine it's the whole 5 degrees reduce by seating.

        Currently under medium low running at low 50s which is better. I think maybe a new cooler will make a big difference?

        https://imgur.com/a/pfNchBx

        • ozbjunkie on 29/10/2018 - 02:33

          That's fine. What is ambient temp?
          Also, make sure you have intake at the front, exhaust St the back. The air flows towards the braces on the frame (ie past the motor, not away from the motor).

        • Nads2407 on 29/10/2018 - 16:48

          Stock intel cooler is rubbish.

  • HeWhoKnows on 28/10/2018 - 14:37
    +1

    Id use it to boil water for your tea or coffee

  • davidv on 28/10/2018 - 15:13
    +1

    If you have the F-stream software installed, and haven't already tried this: use it to set the system to Standard mode instead of Performance mode and see if it makes a difference.
    Owning a K-spec CPU and not overclocking it is seen as a waste by some, but it's worth checking if an over-aggressive BIOS default is partly to blame. In my case with a Gigabyte Z97X-UDH5 mobo it was - pegged the CPU at 4.7GHz and would crash and burn immediately in anything like a Handbrake test (with a Kraken water cooler). I got away with playing most games on it without running into this, only ran into it transcoding home videos (very different CPU workloads).

    Not sure if it's changed recently, but I thought Chrome put tabs to 'sleep' if they're not used for a while. Loading a folder full of bookmarks might do it though.

    • ayad on 28/10/2018 - 18:34

      I have pyhton install if that's what you mean but only a beginner

      do you see an issue with any of these? https://imgur.com/a/2atzmDe

      also under system settings in control panel ? advanced system settings > performance settings - would changing the performance setting have the same effect as you described?

  • viper8548 on 28/10/2018 - 19:03

    Is that fan mounted on the case blowing air in or out of the case?

    • ayad on 28/10/2018 - 19:18

      if you're talking about the top and rear fan (near CPU cooler) - they are both exhausts. only the front fan is an intake fan

  • Antikythera on 28/10/2018 - 23:56
    +1

    There are a few knowledgeable people here who spotted the problem (incorrectly mounted stock cooler) and are able to give good advice. But the layout of these forums isnt great for following the discussion. The Whirlpool forums are great and if you are planning on overclokcing the 4790k (which it deserves, it is a great CPU) check out OCAU forums.

    If you are considering a Noctua NH-U12S I would spend slightly more and get a NH-D14 or NH-D15. If you only want to spend ~$50 then the Hyper 212X is very capable. An AIO watercooler is more expensive, more loud, and cools about the same as the NH-D15 and custom watercooling you are looking at at least $400.

    My recommendation - Overclocking with a NH-D15 should get a few more years out of your 4790k.

    • Soothsayer on 29/10/2018 - 13:17

      Gotta do regarding the layout. Nested replies are way easier to follow than old school forum threads with a hundred unsorted pages. Don't get me wrong, I've spent countless hours on OCAU/WP and forums of the 2000's but they aren't suited to modern fast moving threads with many replies and contributers. Though I will admit WP is the best of the bunch as far as formatting goes.

  • ozbjunkie on 29/10/2018 - 02:30

    If you cleaned the chip surface and the cooler surface, and your thermal paste isn't old and dried out (could be after 4 years) then just buy a better cooler. Edit I see above your temps are in the 60s, 8f under load that's fine, if idle then that's rubbish.

    Hyper Evo, noctua, heaps to choose from. Second hand is fine as long as they have the parts to fit your socket.

  • macrocephalic on 29/10/2018 - 10:26

    Your cpu cooler isn't seated properly!

    You can see the issue in the first photo that you posted - the one of the back of the motherboard. The top-left push pin has not been pushed through the motherboard properly. This will almost certainly be the cause of your problems.

    Note, those OEM heatsinks are fine as long as you're running them as intended (clean, installed properly, not overclocked, not sitting in a 45c room, properly ventilated case, etc). The big issue with them is the one that you've found - those push pins to attach it to the motherboard work well the first time, but if you take it off and put it back on then they're hard to get back on correctly.

    Either put it back on properly, or go and buy an aftermarket one with screws instead of push pins.

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