Used Car for Approx $7,500 - $9,000 for Long Distance 300km One Way Commutes

Hi all,

A friend has asked me advice on what kind of car he should get as a cheap-but-reliable method of going about 300kms x 2 once a week, under some misapprehension that I know these things.

Off the top of my head I'm thinking a small-ish (but not tiny, for stability and ride comfort reasons) car, Korean or Japanese, and ideally no more than 5 - 10 years old, but apart from that I'm having a hard time narrowing it down because there are so many options. Currently in mind in no particular order:

  • Toyota Corolla
  • Honda Jazz
  • Mitsubishi Lancer
  • Hyundai i30
  • Kia Rio (Cerato?)
  • Mazda 3
  • Suzuki Swift
  • Nissan… what's their model one size above the Micra?

Hoping to narrow that down instead of telling my friend to basically put in a dozen different models into carsales.

Thanks in advance!

Comments

            • +1

              @brendanm: Yes pre-2012 Aurion/Camry had identical official fuel consumption so go with Aurion if possible

  • +1

    My suggestion would be a Camry Altise 2.4L Auto. With a budget of $9k, there should be plenty around with low kms. Nothing exciting but will have decent comfort for long commutes.

  • -3

    My vote would be a suzuki swift. Suzuki's are known for their reliability. Japanese made and almost bullet proof. If go to japan, which l have, suzuki is big in micro cars. They aren't as expensive as a Toyota corolla. Therefore, should be able to get a reasonable one for that price. They are also great fun to drive. I have previously owned one, so know what I am saying.

    • +3

      Bloody horrible car to drive 300km on a regular basis. Too much cabin noise for my liking.

  • +3

    I’d go for the Mazda 3. Comfortable for long drives, fairly fuel efficient, enough power for passing.

  • +1

    I was told a long, long time ago that the cheapest thing you can put into a car is fuel.
    Smaller cars wear faster than larger cars because every mechanical component works harder and faster just to keep up with traffic.
    Smaller wheels turn faster, smaller engines rev faster, gearboxes turn faster, lighter mechanical components fail due to fatigue, etc. etc.
    So repairs and maintenance end up wiping out any benefit of fuel savings and reliability issues will always be "back of mind".
    Small cars also lack comfort on long trips and 600 ks per week is a fair amount of driving.
    Plus if a kangaroo decides to test the strength of the front windscreen, I would rather not be in a Corolla or Swift.
    And for those that don't think this will be a problem, anywhere 60 plus Ks outside any city or town in NSW you will see dead roos by the side of the road.
    And these reasons explain why you don't see area sales reps or service techs driving little cars.
    Get a Camry or a Falcon.
    And please, forget complicated and over engineered hybrids or "luxury" and anything with a DSG or CVT transmission in this price range.

    K.I.S.S.

    • I don't think this is true about reliability, it's more to do with overall build from the manufacturer. Personally we've had a couple of very old Toyota Echos and a newer Yaris without any issues. A mechanic friend once described the Echo as the only car he trusts, because it's more bulletproof than anything else on the road. And a former boss had one that was still running well after 10 years and 100k km without a single trip to the mechanic, just an occasional oil top-up.

      Recently we picked up a lightly used 15 year old Daihatsu that looks like it's only had 3 services in it's life. But when we brought it to a local mechanic, the mechanic happened to have the exact same model as his own car because it's trouble free, and said ours was in fantastic condition. I would be pretty surprised if it needs anything more than regular servicing in the next 10 years, but given that the timing belt only cost $400 to change, the costs are likely to be minimal.

      You've possibly neglected that bigger cars weigh more, so the engines have to work harder just to get around, which means they need to be built stronger and more expensive. And often makers will use the same engine across different models, which favours smaller cars.

      Comfort and safety etc isn't as good, but every car purchase I make gets weighed up against the financial benefit of these sub-$5000 small Toyota tin boxes that are basically impossible to break

  • What about the Subarus?

    • +1

      Crap economy and underpowered unless turbo.

      • I didn't think so… That is your opinion

        • It's a fact they have worse economy, at least until the fb20 engine, which is likely out of ops price range, and has its own set of issues. If you don't think they are underpowered, I'm not sure if you've driven enough other cars to be able to make a recommendation.

          • @brendanm: Fuel economy is quite average in Subarus compared to the Camrys and smaller cars. Although everything else is top notch, including longer lasting parts and more premium build and feel. Great car which if maintained will last a long time. Buy Japanese stay away from Korean makes, just like electronics. Underpowered though, which model - compared to what?

            • @Whisper Quiet: Nothing wrong with Korean cars at all. Underpowered compared to anything. All of them that aren't turbocharged or 6 cylinder.

          • @brendanm: Holden Commodore (1988 VL)
            Holden Commodore VYs (Multiple years)
            Subaru Liberty MY07
            Some Camrys

      • +1

        2015+ Outback with 3.6L engine can get 6 to 7L /100km on a highway trip at 110km/h, because of the CVT. This gen Outback is pretty big/heavy and has constant AWD, so it's pretty impressive.

        • +1

          Is that in ops price range? I could have sworn we were talking under $10k.

          If we are making ridiculous comparisons, check out the consumption on the early tribeca lol.

          • @brendanm: 3rd Gen Outback/Liberty with the 3.0L also had similar fuel consumption. Would be in OPs price range.
            Just pointing out it's neither crap economy nor underpowered.

            • @IamEzza: Really? Generally accepted that the ez30 does about 10l/100 on the highway, much more around town.

              • @brendanm: Yes. For us it got consistently around mid 7L on highway runs, loaded up with luggage.
                Good power for overtaking too.

    • expensive to fix
      but awd is a plus

    • I think about Subaru as well. Forester is a good call if you want an SUV. Otherwise, Outback AWD is an awesome wagon.

  • I picked up a 2005 mazda 6 with 115k kms on the clock couple of weeks ago for $5k. Ive done nearly 1500kms since then and its been a pleasure to drive.

    • +1

      Wow, as an "expert" you have no idea. The Kia is a great car in Rio or Cerato. Nissan Tiida is cheap rubbish, cvts in Honda jazz are problematic.

      • -6

        Kia Rio and Cerato are a great car?! If that's your response then you shouldn't be replying either!

        • +5

          I'm a mechanic mate, Rio and Cerato are great little cars. Might want to have a drive, or read some reviews, I think you're stuck in 2001. I've probably been in more cars than you've had hot dinners.

          • -4

            @brendanm: Because you're a mechanic you recommend the most cheaply made Korean cars? That handle like a wheelbarrow and have no power or features. I've been in a Rio and they're awful for everything. Also been in a Jazz plenty of times which is much better than the Rio. What makes you think I would reply if I didn't?! Your comment about the Subaru being underpowered because of some models having 4 cylinder shows why mechanics have the rep they do. It's about everything put together, including torque and power to weight ratio.

            • -3

              @Whisper Quiet: You might have been in many cars but you wouldn't have driven them unless they had a specific repair like brakes, even then it would only be around the block if anything. Thats even if you are a mechanic… So I dont see how your reply makes any difference to someone who's actually driven them properly and able to compare. I've never heard anyone call a Kia Rio a great car let alone the mechanics and car salesman I'm friends with. Kia sponsored reply….

              • +3

                @Whisper Quiet: I mean, you say that as if you have any credibility yourself, lol. A mechanic would have a hell of a lot more credibility than some guy who's "been in a Rio." You've driven a Rio and a Jazz a few times - that certainly doesn't qualify you to talk about the reliability of Kia (or Honda for that matter) since you'd basically have the same experience driving one as the mechanics you so denounce. Not to mention mechanics work on multiple cars with different levels of use and abuse meaning they'd see the common issues and cars which are generally trouble free too. You also said, "Your comment about the Subaru being underpowered because of some models having 4 cylinder shows why mechanics have the rep they do" and then "I've never heard anyone call a Kia Rio a great car let alone the mechanics" so do you believe mehcanics are credible, or not? Your stuck in 2002 anti-korean car mindset really shows and you could not be spewing out more shit if you tried.

              • +1

                @Whisper Quiet: I've owned probably 40+ cars in the last 10 years or so, who knows how many since I've been driving. I've driven a few mate, it's all good.

            • +4

              @Whisper Quiet: They aren't the most cheaply made. They were back in the early 2000s. They are now light years better. You would reply because you like to talk crap, like most other keyboard warriors I suppose.

              The Subaru 4 cylinder non turbo is underpowered. Their power to weight ratio is crap. The ej20 makes under 200nm at about 4500 rpm. The ej25 makes 220 ish at about the same rpm. If that's your idea of high torque that's quite funny. Also the vast majority of them are 4 cylinder, not "some models".

              • @brendanm: I agree with this - the newer Kia models are a world apart from their previous "budget" image.

                The 2.0 GDI with ~132kw of power is definitely more punchy than some of the other competitors (not fast by any means) and gives you more than enough overtaking speed. Interior is servicable to very good depending on the model. Add onto this the 7 year warranty and cheap servicing and you've got a winner.

    • What?.. an "expert" would never say any of those things.

      Just because you say something in BOLD, doesn't make it true =P

  • As Mazda 3 owner, I find it very noisy on highways. Although it drives well and is comfortable.

  • +3

    Camry

    Reliable, cheap to service and maintain, last for ages, economic af, cheap to insure.

  • I've had my i30 crdi 1.6 SX since new in 2010. 260,000km on it and very cheap to own. I got the ECU flashed for ~$200 and it now does 4.5L/100km and much more responsive, before it did around 5.4L/100km.

    However, it's noisy on country roads & lacks connectivity… but they are pretty cheap. I'd get a newer one with a few extra features 👍

    • Are you in Perth?
      How/where did you get the ECU flash done?

  • I'd consider a diesel option provided it has been serviced and well maintained but also reliable from a well supported make.

  • +1

    Once a week? Don't buy a car. Just use a short term rental like goget, carnextdoor etc.

  • -3

    VW Jetta Diesel.

    • Who negged without an explanation? It's a really good car, I've even taken it camping and 4WD tracks. Very comfortable too.

      • +2

        Probably due to maintenance costs, timing belt etc. The fuel economy is insane on the 1.9 tdis, and the jettas are the unwanted cousin of the golf, so can be had for next to nothing. 6 speed wet clutch DSG is good as well. Haters gonna hate.

        • Honestly, the 2007 TDI Jetta we have is great. Super fuel efficient, really comfortable to drive, fast and from what I can see on the market, cheap. That car plus the polo changed my mind on German cars.

          Maintenance costs haven't really been bad. If you want to talk maintenance costs, my BMW is a b*tch. Will be going back to Subaru for my daily as soon as I sell it.

  • +2

    Skoda Octavia 2010-2012

  • +3

    going about 300kms x 2 once a week

    Oh my eyes…. Bad english!

    I assume you mean going about 300kms twice a week?

    • once a week because its only one commute per week

  • +1

    Small cars, especially newer ones are actually just as comfortable as old big cars due to improved technology, suspension etc. But they are much lighter so you will feel that at high speeds in a windy situation. Nothing dangerous though, it's just that you'd feel 'ah, the car is light as a feather..'. Fuel wise you'll save heaps even at speeds 100 km/h. It's said there's no big difference between bigger cars and their smaller siblings at highway speeds but in my humble opinion it's not true. I averaged 4.6/100 km from my prius in the recent trip to Brisbane (4,000 km plus) with 4 passengers and loads of stuff in the car. I don't think any V6/ V8 or even a diesel car can come close to that figure (unless it's another hybrid). And the car is very comfortable (Prius has four independent suspensions especially tuned for comfortable ride rather than sporty.. LOL it's not a sports car after all). Unfortunately at your price range you're looking at very high km prius cars. The engine lasts longer due to that not being used as much (there is a separate electric motor that helps) however hybrid battery life time is bit of a hit and miss after 150,000 km and above. Although there are quite a few places that does cheap battery module replacements you don't want any troubles during your commutes so for 100% piece of mind get a Camry or Corolla which would be just as comfortable but rather reliable.

  • I vote a diesel Mazda 3. Something like this.

    Plenty of guts so the engine won't be noisy on a freeway and still good efficiency.

    • that is … quite a lot more power than I expected

    • Mazda 3's are awesome when you mod them, they can go really fast.

    • +1

      That's a Mazda 6

      • Hah, when I started writing the comment I was going to link this one but then I decided to sort my search results by lowest km and put the link in without changing the name of the vehicle.

  • +1

    Ford fiesta?

  • +1

    Rio V Cerato , no way ,too small ,probably has no cruise , i'm 190cm & Cerato has great legroom — Rio squashed under steering wheel

    ..

  • +2

    2.5 litre 4 cylinder ASV50R Camry. Excellent reliable and powerful motor. No timing belt to change either like most of those other cars. 6 speed auto, cruise control, bluetooth and about 10 airbags and 5 star safety rating. Does 7L/100k's on the highway and about 9 around town. Comfy suspension, quiet and plenty of room. Can also tow 1400kg without trailer brakes.

  • +1

    This is an unpopular suggestion, but he could probably get a Ford Falcon G6E ecoboost (or just a normal Falcon ecoboost) in that price range. Luxury features and large car comfort with 4 cylinder fuel economy. One of the best balances of both in my opinion. Reliability is ok at least for the engines/transmissions but they do have some common falcon issues which may pop up but are relatively cheap due to how common the parts are. It'll probably be quite cheap to keep on the road too.

    Here's one in NSW that seems to be in his price range
    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Ford-Falcon-2012/SS…

    • My parents have one of these. They like it, big comfortable economical. Dad came from ‘falcon on gas’ for many years, so may have had some bias in his purchase. Only thing for them is that it isn’t as good for towing his boat, but that’s getting less common.

  • +1

    Use to have an 03 corolla and now have an 07 Civic, bought for around 5k 18 months ago. Both used for long Highway drives. Fuel is around the same 6.5-7l/100. But Civic is miles ahead in terms of comfort, cabin is so much quieter. New corollas may be different though. Both very reliable and super low maintenance costs

  • +3

    Subaru Outback Turbo Diesel- I had commute of 120Km/day. Great vehicle 6.2 L/100km on highway. Has reasonable acceleration up to 130 kmph ( if in NT) and then OK to 180 kmph (according to literature I have read about Autobahn driving). Good commuter safe AWD and great to throw around on unsealed roads.

  • Diesel just keeps getting more expensive while the price of oil is dropping. I feel like buying a diesel is shooting yourself in the foot, it's only gonna get more expensive.. peak oil and demand supply and geopolitical tensionsssss

    lpg cars are great, less oil changes required and the engines last 300k+

  • -1

    I am going to get smashed for this.

    But I had a couple of Alfa Romeo 159s. Great car, reliable and good value for money if you want something a bit different and a bit snazzier on the inside. Sportswagon versions look excellent. Comes in multiple power trains. But make sure you avoid the selespeed automated manual.

    • But it's not a car.

    • +1

      Alfas. Reliable. Two words that should never be in the same sentence, unless "are not" is written between them.

      • Nothing that comes out of an FCA plant will ever be reliable

        They are despised as unreliable in their home country where maintenance would be relatively cheap.

        Alfa Romeo attract brilliant design engineers, it must be frustrating working for a company that won't invest in manufacturing.

  • +1

    Toyota Corolla

    A good choice, but is likely to be more expensive than comparable cars from other Japanese and Korean manufacturers. You'd not go wrong with one, and I'd probably consider Aurion or a V6 camry as well. V6 is far smoother on the country roads or freeways, and makes overtaking easier and safer owing to the additional power available on tap.

    Honda Jazz, Hyundai i30, Kia Rio (Cerato?), Mazda 3, Suzuki Swift

    I'd avoid hatchbacks (short wheelbase) if doing a lot of kilometers. Longer the wheelbase, greater the comfort.

    Mitsubishi Lancer

    Not a bad choice. A Civic sedan is a comparable (and probably more preferable) option.

    Nissan… what's their model one size above the Micra?

    I think you're referring to the Pulsar? Not a terrible choice, but I'd rather consider a Corolla sedan or Civic sedan.

    Other options include the Nissan Altima, the Mazda 6, and the Honda Accord (all have long wheel bases).

    Also, buy a good set of tyres that are reasonably quiet if you're going to do that many kilometers regularly. You'd be amazed at how much the tyre/road noise adds to travel fatigue.

    PS: There is the Hyundai i40, Sonata, Elantra, etc. and these cars each come with a number of different engines. Some are turbo charged and reasonably powerful enough, and some could be lethargic. But they're are all decent cars.

  • for stability and comfort - something RWD or AWD(not 4WD, theres a diff).

  • +3

    why is the honda accord euro not on the llist? really good car

    • Second this. I bought mine 2 years ago for $11k, would be sub $10k now.
      Great car, good on the highway and has alot of go.

    • +2

      The Accord Euro CL9 (2003-2007) model has a cult following. Amazing car for performance, comfort and reliability.

    • +1

      300kms x 2 once a week
      Front Wheel Drive
      4cyl 1.2L
      77kW

      Hell no.

      • Fair point, but not that far off the list of Mazda 3s etc.

        • +1

          Toyota Corolla's 1.8L produces 100 kW.
          Mazda 3 2.0L produces 108kW.

          That extra 25% power will make a huge difference on the highway.

          • @Hybroid: How are all y'all driving on the highway?

            I just get up to the speed limit then turn on cruise. Don't need much power, except for the occasional (maybe once per 100km?) steep hill…

            • @abb: Overtaking.

              • @brendanm: Ahh, I see, the highways I drive on these days are (finally) 2+ lanes each way, so you don't really need a huge burst of acceleration. But yeah, the older/smaller roads with limited overtaking opportunities, that's definitely a time when you can use a burst of power.

        • Polo is tiny.

  • -1

    Nothing that you have listed there, I'd avoid all those options like the plague. Consider a second hand VY SS or Falcon XR6 Turbo.

  • +1

    2011 Honda civic
    2013 Toyota camry
    2007 Lexus is250

    Just need to wait for sizzling hot deals like people looking for urgent sale, solid service history and how the car was used.

    Check out this Lexus IS250.
    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2005-Lexus-IS250-Sp…

  • Can't you just buy a small car and drop to 2nd gear for passing power?

    • What is this small car at this price range that has the "passing power" to overtake at 100+ KPH in the 2nd gear?

      • Fair point. Any chance 3rd gear could do it?

        • -1

          Lack of power could not be overcome with revving a puny engine into pandemonium. Not to mention that the car would be performing at its near absolute limits (not something you want while overtaking at 100 KPH). Unless you're an extremely skilled driver and the driving conditions are completely permissive of such driving, this could be dangerous (most people who think they're an extremely skilled driver aren't).

          Small cars are for driving within the city, and for the occasional run on country roads if there's no other way. Sure, you could drive them out in the country if you're happy to just cruise along slowly, understanding and accepting the car's limits. Compare this to a 6 or 8 cylinder engine that will eagerly zoom past anything at 100 KPH if you simply put the right foot down.

          There's simply no replacement for actual power (by way of displacement that increases power or by using forced induction like turbo or supercharging). Drop down a suzuki swift to 2nd gear at 110 kph, and instead of overtaking you'd be writing off the car by causing catastrophic damage to the engine and transmission.

          • +1

            @aussieolfaction: Great explanation, thanks. I'm more sympathetic to those with small cars now.

            • @Fobsessive: You're most welcome. Yes, I do feel for them while on country roads leave plenty of room behind them until it's safe to pass them. And I also take it easy when I'm in one of those small things occasionally on the freeways. :-)

  • +1

    I'm going to take a guess this is for a SYD => CBR weekly commute. If this is a short term contract or work assignment what about something like the Murray's bus? Don't even have to put in the driving effort or up-keep.
    (that's really is if there's no other reason for buying the car otherwise)

  • +1

    It could be argued that the best option would the cheapest thing he/she could acquire that was relatively 'fuel-efficient', and had (decent/non-recalled) air-bags protecting anyone that would be travelling in the car. Call me simple.

    • had (decent/non-recalled) air-bags protecting anyone that would be travelling in the car

      Which car is that? Pretty much all cars from all manufacturers were recalled, given that Takata is the largest supplier of airbags in the world. Besides, there is no danger if the airbags were replaced (free of charge) within the stipulated time.

      • Erm…. re 'Pretty much all cars from all manufacturers were recalled', that's simply absolute rubbish, and obviously I was referring to cars that still have the defective air-bags in them.

        Sheesh.

        • Erm…. re 'Pretty much all cars from all manufacturers were recalled', that's simply absolute rubbish

          An easy, and more substantial way to refute that claim would be to point out may be one car that's on the OP's list that's not affected by the recall.

          obviously I was referring to cars that still have the defective air-bags in them.

          This new statement of yours is directly in contrast to what you quite explicitly stated earlier: "and had (decent/non-recalled) air-bags"

          • @aussieolfaction: You appear to struggle a bit with intuitive interpretation of standard conversational English olfactory, but nevermind. Lets just agree to agree that you got everything completely wrong, OK?

            Peace out, bro :P

            • @GnarlyKnuckles: You don't seem to be able to intellectually defend the claims you made (but are readily making more claims). Neither have you been the least bit coherent with two consecutive posts you made, by explicitly contradicting one post with another, and you are now declaring that I am the one struggling with intuitive interpretation.

              If you're not going to make an effort to answer the couple of easy, and logical questions asked, and if it's not glaringly axiomatic to you that you've completely failed to carry on a logical discussion, then right; peace out, indeed.

              • -1

                @aussieolfaction: Cool bananas a-factor, and you needn't apologise; we're all friends here, and I forgive you. I was merely alluding to the fact that it was in fact only a minority of cars that were affected by the recall (not 'pretty much all cars from all manufacturers' as you erroneously/bizarrely claimed), and simple nuances of English interpretation that have evidently not been completely mastered by one of us. It's no biggy, and I'm relatively sure your capacity in this regard will improve with age. Even if it doesn't, one of the 'happy' aspects of ignorance is that some peeps can perpetually maintain the state thereof blissfully. Perhaps you are that lucky kinda guy :)

                • @GnarlyKnuckles: You explicitly stated "and had (decent/non-recalled) air-bags" which clearly means that you were referring to a car that did not have its airbag recalled.

                  You then changed your stance and said that you actually meant a car that has the defect rectified. In this case the car obviously did not have a non-recalled airbag (contradicting the first statement).

                  Could you possibly explain how these two statements are coherent? Go ahead, and explain it from the perspective of "simple nuances of the English language", in case you think that would help you. Another option of course is to completely dodge the question and say something else illogical like "I forgive you", or resort to namecalling, etc. (which option you've used twice so far, which isn't making you look very good).

  • How about VW Passats? Specifically the Turbo Diesel (TDI) model. You can purchase a 07-09 model within your price range (ballpark 150,000km on the clock), and id say it would be much more comfortable for longer drives as opposed to a smaller car? The diesel models also are efficient and will definitely be a great positive to a vehicle devoted to long commutes

  • +1

    Consider i30 diesel, has plenty of overtaking power in a small package.

  • +1

    Any car will get you there easily.

    However no one has mentioned seats.

    The issue with cheap small cars are the seats. I can't feel my ass after 3-4 hours of sitting in crap seats.

    I've never owned one but another reason to get a Commodore or Falcon are the seats are pretty good.

    Personally we drive a Volvo. Best. Seats. Ever.

    We often drive long distances and the seats are comfortable yet supportive. Combined with a 3.0L inline turbocharged 6, it's an effortless drive. Being a Volvo, it's safe too, something to keep in mind if you're driving in the country.

    You can pick up a 2010 S60 T6 for $10k.

  • 2010 FG Falcon

  • +1

    In my humble opinion its hard to go past Hyundai i30 or i40 even, Hyundai are very underrated and are very reliable. Parts are cheap in comparison and you can pick them up at very good prices to begin with. Saying that I would also recommend the Toyota but they tend to hold their value very well so have a bigger up front price tag as everyone is recommended to get a Toyota. You may want to disregard blanket statements about timing belt intervals as it is engine specific (Eg Cam Astra and early Daewoos had a 60k interval but common failure at 40k). Also you will hear many stories of timing belts lasting for ever and some do but is a very big risk to take = Massive engine damage ie piston into head (apart from non-interference engines). So look up what the timing belt interval is for the model you end up choosing and make sure to check the logbooks, if it doesnt come with history I would replace preemptively (if interference engine) also probably tensioner/pulleys depending on model. As stated above replace waterpump too if you do the timing belt as ts a cheap part and a bugger to get to (so high labour cost to replace otherwise).
    Good luck with the car hunting

  • +1

    My vote is for a Lancer. There are plenty of decent ones about for way less than $7,500

    I bought a 2009 model to do 300Km each way commutes for $5,500 with 110,000 Kms on the clock.
    VR-X model has lots of modern features - keyless entry, auto headlights, auto wipers, side airbags, Bluetooth, cruise control
    The 2.4 engine has plenty of power to sit on 110Km/h up and down hills.
    It takes unleaded petrol (7l / 100 Kms on motorways), is easy to work on and cheap to service.

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