Recommendations for Brakes + Rotors for Honda Jazz 2010

• 

  hmac on 25/12/2019 - 12:37

  -1

  inclined

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  npc on 25/12/2019 - 12:41

  DBA rotors can be hit and miss at times. I had used them for Ford Falcon and had no complaints however, much larger rotors on GS430 (335mm) were wrapped in a matter of weeks from new.

  Whatever you choose - check the prices on rockauto dot com - they can be much cheaper compared to the local supply. Your Jazz is the same as Fit in the US market.

  • 

    AirbusA389 on 25/12/2019 - 12:44

    Honda Fit — Japan / USA / Singapore
    Honda Jazz — AU, NZ, Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore.

    they have different engines - iVTEC vs iDSI. whatever that means.

    my key concerns are the
    - i wonder if all GE models of Jazz and Fit have the same dimensions for brake pads?
    - range of products available. Rockauto has way too many choices for me to choose from. of course Rockauto's pricing is much more decent than SCA (let's not go into RipCo and Autobarn's pricing).

    • 

      npc on 25/12/2019 - 13:09

      Well, there is an opportunity to research and save. Or not:) Rockauto themselves are very reputable store.

• 

  dcuksuop on 25/12/2019 - 14:18

  I used DBA rotors from eBay sparesbox, and QFM HBX pads from trackwarrior.com.au

  • 

    AirbusA389 on 25/12/2019 - 14:47

    i spoke to brakesdirect yesterday via online chat. apparently QFM has closed in Aug 2019. =(

    brakesdirect recommended Wagner or Bremtec BT127pro. the bremtec pro seemed to be a discontinued product… this is confusing…

    • 

      brad1-8tsi on 25/12/2019 - 22:09

      I have Wagner pads on the rear of my Skoda and I like them. My requirements were less dust than OEM; no noise; good bite from cold. I didn't care about wear as I only do 5000km/yr. BrakesDirect recommended them and I fitted DBA plane face rotors as well.

      When I did the Honda Accord Euro front brakes I also followed BrakesDirect advice and fitted the Bremtec Trade Series pads onto the original rotors. They do the job of stopping the car but lots of dust and they have no feel or bite. Maybe the bite issue is due to the non-machined rotors but i doubt it (my original trade was brake mechanic and I've done probably 2000+ pad changes back then).

      I'm not saying Wagners are right for your application but I wouldn't fit Bremtec.

      • 

        AirbusA389 on 25/12/2019 - 22:51

        Hi Brad, thank you very much for your replies and personal experience.

        Yeah my requirements are similar: good bite in the cold and hot, no noise, long life (if possible).

        i dont really care about dust. it's a honda jazz for point-to-point travels.

        i'm looking at:
        TRW brake pads D-TEC GDB3375DT (front) and GDB499DT (rear). any experience with TRW/Remsa?

        in your past career as a brake mechanic, what did you usually recommend?

        • 

          brad1-8tsi on 02/01/2020 - 21:02

          +1

          @AirbusA389: Remsa are a good OEM spec pad.

          We mainly used Quinton Hazel product because we got a 90% discount and we were very focused on profit. They were adequate for most people.

          If we had a need for something heavy duty we used Bendix Metal King but they needed heat in them to work. This was when asbestos was still legal.

          My product knowledge these days is rubbish which is why I ask people like Brakes Direct for their recommendation. OTOH, my technical knowledge is still relevant.

      • 

        pitiek on 04/01/2020 - 19:06

        On unrelated note, I'm contemplating a jump from a Honda Accord Euro Cu2 to either a Skoda Oktavia RS or Kodiaq, still undecided on which one.
        Test driven the RS169 a while back and sold with the performance and usable space at the back.
        Considering the Kodiaq as we're consolidating from 2 cars to one and the extra seats would help.

        Anything from your personal experience that you can share? Running cost? Servicing? Warranty?
        TIA

        • 

          brad1-8tsi on 05/01/2020 - 18:32

          @pitiek: My 2007 Elegance spec Octavia hatch has a lot more (usefull) bells and whistles than the Euro but I love driving both.

          I haven't driven a Kodiaq but have owned several 7 seat SUVs (Outlander, Captiva x2 and something else that I can't remember) and if the 3rd row is something you will use only occasionally then that's the way to go. If you need a proper 7 seater then get a people mover like a Honda Odyssey (had one of them too plus a couple of Avensis Verso).

          If you want a nice, big wagon then look at a 2-3 yr old Superb as the depreciation is horrific. You'll get a current shape 16*tsi for $35k.

          The Octy is a good car. Warranty is 5 years now. I only made 2 claims and there were no issues with either.

          Servicing is 12m/15k. Skoda do fixed price and it's all on the website. I don't think it's much worse than any other psuedo-luxury brand.

          Mines been very reliable over 195,000km (some expensive issues but not frequent) but a lot of owners have issues (some VW engineering is quite crap). I've probably had the equivalent of $4000 in unplanned maintenance over 11 years plus I've got a busted AC at the moment that will be $1500 to fix (more at the dealership).

          Would I buy another - yes. I like the cars, the way they fit me and the performance, handling and fuel economy. The slightly dodgy reliability doesn't worry me too much.

          • 

            pitiek on 05/01/2020 - 19:35

            @brad1-8tsi: Ta @brad1-8tsi

            The third seat row will be for occasional use only..

            I'm a bit underwhelmed with the vertical space in the boot on the Kodiaq and Cx9.. Eventhough it looks bigger from the outside, due to the folded seats, both has similar space compared to Oktavia and Superb.
            I don't see the benefit going for the Superb as the sloping rear window seems to limit the vertical space for storage (kids bikes, scooters and boxes mainly).
            Buying my first Euro car second hand is a bit of a leap for me due to the horror stories and I get that depreciation is going to be a killer hence I was also looking at the CX9 but it's massive…!

            Would you elaborate on the $4000 unplanned maintenance and does it take a while for the dealership to order the aircon parts?

            • 

              brad1-8tsi on 06/01/2020 - 10:23

              +1

              @pitiek: I wouldn't buy a CX9 unless you like paying for fuel. I believe they like a drink. Also, a good mate has the CX5 diesel and it has been far less reliable than you'd expect.

              Warranty:
              Fuel pump @ 5000km
              sensor for the turbo at 60,000km.

              Corrective (unplanned) maintenance:
              Water Pump @ 90,000km $1350ish ($800 part + labour)
              Water Pump @ 170,000km Same job as above but I DIY'd this for ~$250 parts (ebay) and a few days labour including decoking the inlets (common issue on direct injection cars) and flushing / replacing coolant.
              Cam sensor oil leak - replaced with revised part. $300 in labour
              A few other minor oil leaks that could have been left but I DIY'd them.

              If I do the AC compressor I'll buy of eBay as dealership price is crazy. The car is only worth $2k-3k so maybe I won't bother.
              Parts are generally available from the dealership quite quickly in my limited experience. I usually buy from overseas as it's a lot cheaper.
              NB: VW Australia charges about 50% more than the UK/US prices for parts.

              Planned maintenance:
              The usual oil changes, spark plugs, fuel/air/cabin filters.
              Rear brake pads & rotors at 175,000km
              Front brakes are still the factory units and have 5mm left
              Still on original clutch.
              5 sets of tyres
              Dampers were getting harsh so i changed them at 95,000km but most people would put up with it.
              No other suspension issues.

              Considering it cost me $30k D/A new it's been a cheap car overall.

              • 

                pitiek on 06/01/2020 - 10:43

                @brad1-8tsi: That's not bad at all…
                Is yours a Manual or DSG?

                • 

                  brad1-8tsi on 06/01/2020 - 11:55

                  +1

                  @pitiek: 6 speed Manual and the Gen 1 EA888 1.8tsi so no timing chain tensioner issues, it doesn't use oil, it's not the rubbish DQ200 7 speed dry clutch auto. In terms of reliability and lack of "issues" it's one of the better drivetrains.

                  If I buy again I'll be looking at a late 2.0tsi EA888 or the diesel. Manual preferred but given the scarcity, I'll be happy with the DQ250 wet 6 speed DSG.

                • 

                  maybeamacy on 06/01/2020 - 15:19

                  @pitiek: Hey Pitiek, I've got a CU2 too and it's starting to burn a bit of oil now that it's older. Does yours do the same?

                  • 

                    pitiek on 06/01/2020 - 19:58

                    @maybeamacy: Never have that issue… First owner MY12 model has just done over 100,000km…