Honda CR-V (2020 Price Discussions)

Hi all,

We would like to upgrade our car to a new Honda CR-V VTI-S AWD. Went to see it last weekend, and after hearing the price (around 40,500) and what they would take ours for (8k for a 2012/13 CR-V) I thought I would ask how much other savvy negotiators in the community paid for it. Also, any detail/opinion regarding the price, and how it was obtained will really help (I think I should take a negotiation course….).

Thanks in advance :)


Mod: Updated title from "Help Negotiating Honda CR-V VTI-S AWD" to "Honda CR-V Discussions" and merged all negotiation/price threads here.

Comments

  • +1

    Your not going to get a deal with a trade in. If you don't want to sell your existing car privately then you will have less bargaining power. The best plan of attack is to pay cash or get your own finance for the car.

    Only deal with a change over price if you have to trade in with all dealer delivery included.

    Never buy from first dealer. Get their lowest price. Walk away. You can always go back if they are actually cheapest. I can say they won't be.

    Go to another dealer and do the same thing. Trade in drive away price. Make sure you get a price for the same spec and model car to compare. Go in this with a lower start price in your head now that you know a base.

    Go to third dealer the closest to home and say you are buying today. What is your best price. Get any Mats and extras - full tank slim plates added for no cost to do deal if your happy.

    Just don't get to attached to the whole process. The Salesmen is there to get every little cents our of you.

    Avoid the Ming Mole. Walk away. Let her show you her assets get a free coffee and say no thanks.

    Hope this helps

    On a side note test drive other brand and even the new car if you haven't already. There are a lot of choices Kia, Hydundai, Toyota, & Mazda.

    • +1

      Avoid the Ming Mole.

      Lol. It's been a while since I came across the good ol ming moles. Are they actually still around or just select dealers only. Our last car purchased didn't offer this after sales sucker.

      • -1

        The moles are still there. It's just a pleasure to just glaze into their assets while they babble on about paint and interior protection, alarms, and tinting. Then say no thanks. Gee they'll even give me a discount if I package up multiple item. Still more expensive than organising it yourself. Very high mark ups at dealer.

  • Oh if the salesmen says that you won't find the price cheaper at any other dealer. You know for sure its not. Ask for his office phone and call his neighbouring dealership and ask them for their best price. Only do this if your at a point where you want to buy. No doubt the dealer at the other end if keen will offer a better price. Tell then your at such and such a dealer and want a better price and youll go to them if its the best price in the end. Even better you can get the dealer you are at to do even better. Love it.

  • Just save time and do it all by phone and email.

    Although Peter Warren will probably give you the best deal.

  • +1

    go to the dealer
    say gimme discount br0

    if you get awesome,.fully sick
    if not walk away find another dealer

    repeat

  • +1

    Whirlpool forums

  • -2

    sell yourself don’t trade in, good probability of saving more.

    • -2

      And if it takes 12 months to sell their car? Or if all the offers they get are lowball idiots?

      If OP is not in any hurry and willing to put up with idiots, tyre kickers, lowballers and no-shows, then have at it, but often what they finally get for it and the time that has past, usually means that trading in was the best use of time and money.

      • trading in was the best use of time and money

        I found everytime we sell our used cars I have quoted just a little above the trade in price plus factor in some nominal amount for time spent for tyre kickers and they sell within the week.

        In fact we actually use the trade in price for a quick sale rather than market value/sources.

        Though I agree if you wanted a easy process and let someone handle it all (with a built in fee of course), trade in is best.

  • -1

    Ugh, people that call asking for "best price". Best price occurs when you're in my office. You'll get a price over phone/email, but it won't be the best I can possibly do. I'll tell you that.

    Better yet is when a price is quoted to someone and it's completely not possible… They go around town, wasting time because no one else can beat it, then go back to the person that quoted it and they get a "oh sorry, I got the figures wrong". Seen it happen.

    • -1

      It's starting to turn into OzPriceValidation.com.au

      Are people really this insecure about buying a car?

  • I'm after a CRV VTI AUTO 2WD 5STR 2020 with alloys, what's my best price chance for that model??? Doing the painful shop around with dealers this week.

    • But they come with alloys? Even the VI comes with alloys?

      • true yes

  • Don't go into a dealer and ask for "best price" you wont get it unless you are sitting down ready to sign. You can take Quote A to Dealer B, but you might not get the best deal, because dealer A would have done better if you were ready to sign. Quite often, if you take Quote A to Dealer B and then get Quote B and take it back to Dealer A, you will find that your Quote A will no longer be honoured and will be told "If it's so good at Dealer B, you should have bought it there."

    Best plan of attack is to have done your homework and know what value you put on the vehicle (Not what value random, anonymous forum patrons think it's worth or bullshit about what they paid for it). Shop that price around and tell dealers that you are ready to sign if they can do that price. If none are coming to the party, you may have to reassess what you are offering.

    If every dealer isn't even interested in talking to you, it's way to low. If some are close, then hammer away at it. You are better off working at it with a dealer who is close, than to just take their offer and shop it. Other dealers may give you a few $$'s off, but working with the dealer who was close may net you an even bigger discount.

    And don't do this shit over the phone or email. Dealers know you are only price shopping and are not going to give you the best deal to someone why have no rapport with. Set the initial contact in person, get the seed planted, then change over to phone and emails.

  • +1

    try some car buying services which may be free. john cadogan has one. he skewers car dealers and manufacturers regularly so he seems more consumer oriented.

    • Because you didn't get it last time, I'll have another go.

      John Cadogan is an idiot. He doesn't have a car buying service, he has a car buying car buying service. He is just another layer of cream rakers on top of what is already a transaction covered in people wanting to get a finger in the pie.

      I have tried to use his service on 2 occasions. Both times I have been palmed off onto 3rd party buying/fleet companies. These companies are unable to get me anything better than RRP or were not even able to match what I was already offered by a dealer.

      This is the problem with Cadogan's business model for us consumers; Cadogan wants his cut. The car buyer he refers you to, wants their cut. The dealer wants their cut and the sales guy wants his cut. Someone has to pay for all these. Guess who that is? The end consumer.

      Cadogan wants his $500 finders fee, the car buying service wants their $500 finders fee, so this $1,000 just gets added to the cost of your vehicle. If you think he offers this service for nothing out of the goodness of his heart, you are sadly mistaken.

      he seems more consumer oriented.

      If you believe that shit, then you have been gulping down to much of John's marketing kool-aide.

      While he does have some valid points to make at times, and goes about it in an unorthodox way, the fact remains is that his videos are there for the sole purpose of marketing his business. ie: taking a piece of your discount from every car that you want to buy.

  • Merged from Is This The Best Price for a Honda CRV VTI 2020 2WD

    I've been ringing/emailed for the best price for a Honda CRV VTI Auto 2020 2WD model this week and the cheapest I can is $30,990 with matts thrown in. Anybody purchased a CRV recently and should I be pushing for something closer to 30 or 29- or perhaps this is the best I'll get.

    • +2

      There is no RWD model is there? They are either AWD or FWD

      • I think op meant FWD (four wheel drive) :-)

        • +2

          FWD is front wheel drive.
          AWD is all wheels biased at on road use
          4WD is all wheel drive for off road
          RWD is rear wheel drive.

          • -2

            @Euphemistic: The smiley at the end means I was being sarcastic :-)

            • +1

              @Muzeeb: @MS Paint: Wait. Are you bring sarcastic now..?

              • @Chewie: No. But I was originally. This part is not sarcastic.

            • +4

              @Muzeeb: if you have to explain it you're doing it wrong.

          • -1

            @Euphemistic: The different between AWD and 4WD is commonly defined as locked front and rear driveshafts.

            • +1

              @Presence: AWD is constant drive to all wheels. 4WD usually refers to vehicles that can disengage one set of drive wheels.

              • +1

                @pegaxs:

                AWD is constant drive to all wheels.

                Moreso the ability to drive all wheels. RAV4 hybrid awd only puts power to the back when need be.

                Presence is more on the money - locking diffs and a low-range

      • Series is "RW". I'm guessing they got confused

    • -4

      Given demos are selling for $30,888 drive away and upwards, and you've called multiple dealers and got that price, what do you think…?

      • +1

        Yes I'm with you, just getting the expert advice of OzBargainers. Yes it's 2WD, not 4WD

        • +1

          That’s $102 for the matts

    • +2

      Damn, I’ve accidentally logged into OzCarPriceValidation.com.au again.

      I’ve been ringing/emailed

      Well, there’s part of your problem. Been to an actual dealer and threaten to sign a contract @ $28,000 and see how much better they can do on that $30,990 price?

    • +2

      Yeah now go to a dealer in next suburb and start on a lower price. Say you will buy today if you get the right price. If no luck there then go to your closest dealer and do the deal there knowing the price from the other. Go in on a Sat late afternoon. Good Luck.

    • +1

      I'm in Adelaide and in December flew to Melbourne and bought a 2020 CRV LX for $41k. Drove it home and paid on road costs here. Was originally looking for a demo to save costs but got offered a brand newy for the same price. Was still cheaper to fly over and buy than wait for a decent deal here

    • Dear OP

      You could travel to Timbuck two and get a better price but is it really worth it?
      Think about servicing the car too.
      Your local dealer might give you a better allround deal and much more convenient too.

      In the end it doesnt matter what other people paid because the local dealer wont give tow hoots.

    • +1

      Hey mate - CRVs are a great car, I bought the same car in June 2019 from Newcastle for $28k, without rego (drove from Newcastle to ACT same day and got it registered). All up it cost me $29.5k including one year of rego. However, if you can, drop couple grand more and buy the VTIs. Has much better features and I wish I had bought a VTIs. Nevertheless CRV VTI is a great car too! Good luck with the decision making, it is usually a stressful time. I dealt with Tracey Bannister from Cardiff Motor Group, Newcastle - terrific service!

    • Need a little more info.
      Is the $30990 deal cash/your own finance OR dealer finance.

      1. Try and work out when during the month the dealership has to "balance their books" then try closing a deal at that time.

      2. Totally avoid the stress & sales bs pressure.
        Try a car broker like, "Auto Expert by John Cadogan - save thousands on your next car "
        https://autoexpert.com.au
        Have never used a car broker before, but would be interested in the result.

      Oh, add to the list of your requirements delivered home with a full tank of fuel.

      • Try and work out when during the month the dealership has to "balance their books" then try closing a deal at that time.

        As it's a 2020 plate, timing has no effect on factory orders. You have less negotiation power on a factory order, than 1 sitting around on the lot

        Try a car broker like

        Oh god no. Not him. Not unless you want to be paying through the nose because of the cut he takes out of the middle

        Oh, add to the list of your requirements delivered home

        Why? Risk a stone chip or something with the salesperson bringing it to your house etc? Just pick it up from the dealership.

      • Buying outright for my business. No finance, got the money now.

        • -1

          Put your time into what you are really good at, your own business.
          Allow a car broker who usually get bulk discounts, do what they are good at, after all if its not a better deal there is no obligation.
          Personally, I would have it delivered as well.

    • Hey, which dealer did you get this $30,990 price

  • Thank you guys for all the help :) Anyway bought one and can share a feeling of how low I could get with the price? (and how much I could push up the price of mine?) Cheers

  • Merged from Honda CR-V Auto VTIL720 - $41,000: Deal or No Deal?

    I'm about to purchase a new Honda CR-V Auto VTIL720 (7 seater, 2WD - manufactured in Oct 19) for $41,000 in ACT (with mats and windows tint included). Is this an OK deal or should I run away?
    Thanks so much!

    • +2

      If you are happy with the price then it is a deal.

      7 seater CR-V. I feel sorry for those in the back row.

    • Have you been to other dealers with the same spec to see what they have to offer.

      • in ACT

        Pffffft

    • +1

      If you intended to use the third row, better don't buy it. It is not suitable for more than 30 mins ride on the third row. Also if you intend to put two car seat, third row is not accessible.

    • Thanks for the the replies, guys. I'm aware of the issues with the third row. The thing is that we are only going to use those seats for 1-2 months per year (when the in-laws are visiting from overseas) and probably only for short distances. We are planning to use 2 child seats, but I hope it is not going to be too much of an inconvenience for my wife to jump in those seats from the boot - I know, it is not ideal, but she suggested that.

      • +2

        We are planning to use 2 child seats, but I hope it is not going to be too much of an inconvenience for my wife to jump in those seats from the boot

        Lol good luck with that

        • If they're tiny Asians, it'll be fine.

    • in ACT

      Does the car have any damage from the hail storm?

      • no

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