Hi everyone!
I am looking at purchasing a new Suburu Forester 2020 2.5i-S.
Dealer Advertised Price: $47,000
Has anyone purchased one recently, or have experience with how much discount I can potentially haggle for?
I have had one dealer offer a price of $39,500 Inclusive of my 2013 VE series 2 Commodore with 160,000kms on the clock.
Looking for any guidance or knowledge for a bargain!
Really curious as to the neggers. Why?
It's ozbargain, it's what they do.
Really curious as to the neggers. Why?
I'd be guessing $4k for a VE is a start. It's worth ~$500 wholesale. If you want a wholesale price (15% off) for the Forester then expect a wholesale trade-in. You can't have it all.
I'll admit, $47k for a Forester did make me choke slightly.
did make me choke slightly.
Giggidy
Lol but so true on the VE. No idea if it's an Omega or SS-V, but yes it most likely aint worth $4k
Based on previous reports of about $42,500 for the car, $39,500 changeover actually sounds like a decent deal!
15% is ridiculous. Manufacturers aren't offering any extra incentives currently. The flow-on effect from everything hasn't kicked in yet, as most new car departments will have a backlog of orders waiting to go out the door.
Hell we couldn't/wouldn't even do the 10% that gets thrown around on the internet.
And this is a real-world example of a realistic discount on the car (sub-10%).
You of all people should know that if a dealer has a particular car sitting on their books for a good while, costing the stealership money, and a buyer walks in with a low offer, they may well sell it at a 'loss' to move it. That loss may not be a loss, in the bigger picture. Every sale is unique, depending on a whole host of factors. Which is why most people distrust stealerships, because of all the smoke and mirrors that go on, when it's really a lump of metal that moves. Same with REA's.
Me saying 15% is as valid as you saying "wouldn't do 10%".
A real-world example was shown of a $4,000-$4,500 discount. You've suggested OP tried for $7,000. No caveats to that offer (go for something in stock, ask about demos, ymmv etc). That's the problem I have with blanket statements, 90% of the time they're not true. A dealer won't just simply lose $3k to sell a car, why would they? We're not that deep into issues right now to bother doing something like that. Put it on as a demo, claim bonuses in 2 months if need be, but a $3k loss would have to be a very undesirable car, something I don't believe the Forester is right now.
I've seen it time and time again where someone comes in with the hope of getting a car that's outside their price range because the internet suggested they could get it for that price. I've had people try to get 10% off the new RAV4, without any other thoughts that their figure might be wrong. Negotiation didn't even begin, they just said they'd wait until it hits that price. And they kept waiting.
The problem with people having low offers in mind are:
Then you have the added issues currently, of COVID-19. If OP does go dealer to dealer, they're risking more than not getting a bargain price.
So yes, I will always openly bag people who make blanket suggestions on ridiculous discounts, and act like they're factual. They're not.
Have you looked at the Mazda CX5 specifically with the 2.5l turbo petrol engine? For similar pricing you get good output being 170kw/420nm vs 126kw/236nm from the subaru naturally aspirated 2.5l.
If I was in the market for a SUV in the sub $50k mark that's where I'd go straight to. This is coming from a current Forester 2.0l XT owner.
Thanks for that, I was kinda looking at SUV's in that category but hadn't considered the CX5. Was looking at a RAV4 or an XTRAIL but might check out the Mazda.
On average you should be aiming between 10%-15% discount off any new vehicle. if they are unwilling to to discount it then alternatively seek out accessories, free servicing and other fitted options to make up that difference. DO not pay their asking price. be confident and be prepared to walk away if they dont accept your offer. always buy at the end of the month as dealers need to meet their quotas to get access to higher bonus for that month. I know Subaru offers large corporate businesses $5000 off a $40,000 car which is about 12.5% off the car itself.
Hope this helps you.
Type John Cardogen into YouTube watch his videos save a boat load
Yep sure, pay for his brokerage service…
The videos are free….
They're all designed to flog his brokerage service. Simple as that. The guys a flog
@spackbace: The guys presentation style can jar, but a lot (most) of his content is factually correct.
I always smile when someone from a particular job, leaves that job and becomes a whistleblower and reveals all the sh1t that goes on in that job.
I smile even more when those that remain in that job, become very defensive and start attacking that 'whistleblower', calling him every name under the sun and question his revelations to try and sling mud and reduce this impact of his words.
@oscargamer: Except people treat his words like gospel, when he has his own biases towards particular brands (which he's been suspected of being a shill), and plugs his brokerage service at every chance.
It's not like he's just a random reviewer, he's a businessman through and through.
@spackbace: I all I can say is a took a bit of his advice and I reckon if I didn’t I would of forked out an extra 4-5k on my wife car last year
But that’s just me I cant comment on other ppl I guess
@Trying2SaveABuck: Good work.
Have to say I am a much better negotiator given a few things…
1) my increasing age and life experience
2) the realisation that a car salesperson is exactly as Cadogan describes
3) the realisation that no car is unique
4) I have the money. The salesperson wants my money
5) because of 4 above, I have so much more power than the salesperson (took me decades to realise this)
6) Time is MY friend in negotiations
Please feel free to add more numbers to my list
Do these still have CVT? Drove a friend's a year or so ago, seemed dull.
edit: also seeing as this is ozbargain, I'd consider buying a demo over new. save a few $.
I don't know why you would want this car. It is a very old design, it really traces it's roots back to the 1990s, the only mechanical upgrade being the CVT, which is rubbish.
Roots in the badge perhaps but the Forester moved to the new global platform in 2019 which was only released in 2017 and the current FB25 was released in 2010 and fixed a lot of the complaints from the earlier EJ. The CVT has also been revised since release.
The Outback we have is still an old design though and Subaru Australia for some reason has decided not to supply manual trans as an option which is still being made and available in other markets.
Since 08 they have been rubbish. I miss the actual sport boxy wagon. Also;
If your not seeking to import this https://www.thedrive.com/news/31783/this-subaru-f-u-c-k-s then take your mummy wagon to a korean made :P
I agree they're definitely not as good offroad as they once were and they've gotten much larger BUT they're still better than anything else offroad short of an actual 4WD. As a daily/family car they're still a good option for most people but Subaru has become a very boring/bland shadow of what it was.
@apsilon: They were never good offroad, it's just that with the old manual or even the 4 speed auto you could actually go on some dirt without getting stuck. If it's a pretend 4wd you might as well get a wagon. They aren't a good family option because they get shit fuel economy, and have a terrible interior. If you want terrible interiors and decent fuel economy, you might as well buy a korean car, which will be technologically much more upto date.
The platform might be different, but it basically means that all Subarus with the exception of the BRZ are the same car with different bodies. The FB25 is just an evolution of the same old tired EJ boxer 4, which get poor fuel economy compared to the competition, and actually makes less power than the top end 1990s version. They just evolved the same block, called it a new one, increased the stroke and reduced the bore and swapped the timing belts for chains. They might want to try and spin it as an all new engine, but it's not, it's an evolution. The way as BMW has been evolving the same inline 6 for 30 years, except the BMW engine is actually good. The CVT is rubbish no matter which way you spin it. It doesn't matter how many times you revise them, they are fundamentally shit gearboxes.
Every car can trace its roots back even further than the 90s if you think it’s the same car as a 90s model.
Just bought one in Feb for 43k driveway with about $600 rrp of accessories.
I doubt you'll get it for sub 40 regardless of the current economic situation.
This.
There is a good thread on whirlpool where people have been posting their purchase prices spanning a couple of years, and 43K driveaway with 600 rrp of accessories is a good deal and a realistic target to aim for.
I've got a MY19 forester (same model), which i picked up as a demo for 42K driveaway with 2000km on the clock mid last year. In retrospect I probably could have haggle for 41K or 40.5K.
re: accessories at a minimum get mats and also the rear bumper resin scatch guard thing so you can drag goods and prams etc out of the boot without worrying about scratching.
Get one used, 1 to 2 years old, going for $25k fleet auction sales.
If you must have one of these (which is a mistake), wait a couple of months and the dealers will be desperate. You'll get one sub 40 for sure. Lockdowns are only going to get more draconian, and they'll have no walk ins at all, and stock just sitting on the floor, costing them money.
just wondering what made you settle on the Subaru Forester 2020 2.5i-S?
im in the early stages of looking at getting a new car, ideally city SUV (wife preggers, current car small and would love a bit of height to ease with baby in and out of car) and on my current list i have this car, RAV4 and CX-5.
Went through the same process recently and ended up on the Forester.
Forester scored 1st or 2nd in almost all of the reviews I read online, and is arguably the 'safest' medium SUV. It's not perfect but was the best pick of the bunch and I'm happy so far.
interesting, thanks for giving me a run down of how you made your decision.
going from what you have said, would you have gone for the RAV4 if the styling or waitlist didn't matter? just as thats top of my list atm, styling isn't an issue, and waitlist isn't a massive concern atm as don't need the car for a while.
We couldn't even find a hybrid cruiser to test drive, but yes I probably would have overruled the style decision if there was stock and it drive as good as the reviews say.
Also getting a real hybrid (RAV4 I mean) for mid 40s is very tempting.
Good car
Considered an electric option? I've done 150 000kms in an EV outlander. Couldn't go back to a petrol car (madness sitting in traffic). Will look back and laugh how stupid we were burning fuel, yet going almost no where.. yet aware the environment was turning to poo.
I paid less than 20k for mine a couple of years ago. Sink another 6k into solar and solar batteries (based on SA prices) and drive off electrons + no servicing required for electric motors. Not sure what else is out there now, but there were over 300 EV options in Europe a couple of years ago. Hopefully a good Aussie built EV will be competitively priced soon.
P.S. The slow moving, constant torque hill climbing 4wd is so much better. But launching a boat on soft sand isn't great. First gen EV struggles with the high current requirements of stop/ starting on soft sand. But for the average Joe, it's more than capable as an SUV.
Hopefully a good Aussie built EV will be competitively priced soon.
You're kidding, right?
And yours is the PHEV hybrid isn't it? Didn't think there's a purely electric outlander. And if it's the older model, it had a 50km range on electric. How has it done that sorta range on pure electric. Plus it needs servicing.
Hybrid isn't EV, and shouldn't be considered as such. Hybrid is hybrid, EV is EV. Hybrid still has a petrol engine which needs servicing and fuel.
You got an Outlander PHEV, not EV.
Sorry, yes it isn't a pure EV. However, 99% of my driving in the city is EV. I also do a country trip (850km return) once every 6 weeks. That includes an electric charge at each end. So approx 750km petrol @ a very reasonable 6.2- 7.9 L/100km.
My range on electric is currently 46km (which is perfect for my daily 40km commute). Plenty of info on the web around resetting the BMU for full range again.
Since the petrol engine does open road driving only, it's is basically still brand new (compression/ tolerances etc).
Net result, I have a 6 year old car with basically still a brand new petrol engine, saved around $3k per year on fuel and it's paid for itself. Cant comment on the electric motor condition they just do their thing and make no noise and no issue or servicing in 150 000km.
RRP $47k
Less 15% in current sales climate = $39950
Less $4k for your car = $35950 is your target