Please Help Me Diagnose My Vehicle - 1992 Subaru Liberty AWD

GOCAT9 on 07/09/2020 - 12:41
Last edited 07/09/2020 - 16:13

I am no professional mechanic, but I like to fix what I can to keep my vehicle in good running order. I have a problem that I cannot find much about it on the internet so was hoping that the “greater knowledge pool” may be able to help. The vehicle has been well maintained and has never been involved in an accident. It normally drives extremely well.

Ok, so this is what we are working with: It is a 1992 Subaru Liberty 2.2L non-turbo, automatic, GX all-wheel-drive wagon with 340,000km on the clock. Its normal behaviour (over the past 30 years) is that if the vehicle is on a flat level surface and put in “Drive” then, when the brake is released, it will creep forward, EVEN ON FULL LEFT OR RIGHT STEERING LOCK. The problem is that now, when I apply half-full or more left or right lock, the vehicle slowly comes to a complete stop. To make it move, I now need to apply some small accelerator input which I never had to before. This behaviour is only when about half or more full left or right lock is applied.
I would be very grateful if anybody could indicate why this is happening.

Just to help out, this is what I have already checked:
* Automatic transmission fluid: clean and full
* Front differential fluid: clean and full
* Power steering fluid: clean, full and no bubbles.
* Power steering pump belt: tight and in good condition
* no check engine light on, also does not have OBD (too old)!

LATEST UPDATE: check brendanm comment below, BIG, BIG clue???? Looks like a centre diff issue, brendanm gets the cake on this one, thanks mate. and thanks to all those that helped, that's what makes this community so great!

Automotive

Comments

  • 69 dollar dealz on 07/09/2020 - 12:48
    +1

    seized brake calipers

    • GOCAT9 on 07/09/2020 - 12:51

      Interesting, ok, I will jack car up and see if the wheels rotate easily while in neutral, ta

      • 69 dollar dealz on 07/09/2020 - 12:52
        +1

        Inspect the pads for uneven wear also, which is another sign of the caliper seizing

  • [Deactivated] on 07/09/2020 - 13:20
    -2

    340,000km. Found your problem right there.

    • brendanm on 07/09/2020 - 13:31

      Nothing wrong with a high km old school Subaru.

      • [Deactivated] on 07/09/2020 - 13:37

        Literally that's not the case.

        • brendanm on 07/09/2020 - 14:59

          One tiny issue isn't really a dealbreaker. I've seen many much worse issues with cars with much fewer KMs.

    • Euphemistic on 07/09/2020 - 14:07
      +1

      Why do you even bother reading these threads. It’s obvious you think that you have to own a euro no older than 5y or with under 100k km on it and that anyone with an older car is not smart enough to buy what you do.

      Plenty of us drive old vehicles with lots of kms in them and they keep going for a long time.

      • [Deactivated] on 07/09/2020 - 14:20

        Seeing as I don't drive a Euro car, that's a pretty big stretch. And 340,000km is EOL for most cars, especially ones with small engines like Subarus.

        • Euphemistic on 07/09/2020 - 14:22
          +1

          If it costs $500 for a part, can DIY and the vehicle is otherwise running well and looked after it’ll be cheaper to repair than replace

          My bad, I did forget what you drive by the way you spout on about Euro technology being vastly superior one could reasonably assume you drive one.

        • brad1-8tsi on 07/09/2020 - 14:28
          +1

          And 340,000km is EOL for most cars, especially ones with small engines like Subarus.

          Hilariously mis-informed. What is this? The 1960s again?

          • [Deactivated] on 07/09/2020 - 14:35
            -1

            @brad1-8tsi: Well a 1992 Subaru is 5 years closer to the 1960s than it is to 2020. Let that sink in.

          • Euphemistic on 07/09/2020 - 15:47

            @brad1-8tsi: The thing that stopped most 60s cars was rust. Engines were generally understressed and keep going if you service well

            • brad1-8tsi on 07/09/2020 - 15:57
              +1

              @Euphemistic: Yeah but look how much servicing they needed!
              I was so lucky. I missed out on the regular "lets pull the head off and decoke it" era which VW have tried to make fashionable again. ;-)

  • brendanm on 07/09/2020 - 13:31
    +4

    In the engine bay there will be a thing that looks like a fuse holder that says FWD. If you put a 10 or 15 amp or so fuse in it, it will make it front wheel drive only. See if that will allow it to move without binding.

    • GOCAT9 on 07/09/2020 - 15:05
      +1

      THIS MAN IS A GENIUS!! ok, I have put the fuse in and it displays FWD on the dashboard (never seen that before). And yes, the problem is GONE - it behaves as normal.

      What does this tell us, transfer case(??) or something is the problem??

      • brendanm on 07/09/2020 - 15:31
        +3

        Centre diff issue.

        • Euphemistic on 07/09/2020 - 15:44

          Nice work! Now to replace it or just leave it FWD until it dies.

          I Got a quote for like $1600 for the repair but did some research and found mine was the same across a bunch of models of similar age. Ended up scoring a whole transmission locally for about $250. Part alone was over $600 online. Was a Simple enough job with an online guide but required pulling out the gearbox.

          Being an auto might make a difference, but plenty of subie fans and info online to help.

          • GOCAT9 on 07/09/2020 - 16:09

            @Euphemistic: Interesting!

            Yes, I guess so, replace or FWD until dead, I heard its supposed to improve gas mileage anyway. I assume there are no long term consequences in leaving it in FWD?

            I will now go down the path of investigating replacing the centre diff, wreckers yard maybe??

            • Euphemistic on 07/09/2020 - 16:12

              @GOCAT9: Have a read of a few result from googling “Subaru centre diff” and repair, problems fail etc. I found a few in short time, but they were mostly related to post 2000 models. YMMV as I don’t have the issue, didn’t need to search too much.

  • jackinyourbox on 07/09/2020 - 14:02

    I believe your issue has o do with the throttle body condition.

    What usually happens is the ECU adjusts A/F to keep it from stalling and the engine has enough power to engage the transmission causing it to creep. This is not normal.

    Over time/changing batteries/loss or battery, the ECU is reset and forgets the learnt A/F values.

    There is less friction when steering is straight than when turning and it’s possible that the turning friction is above the transmission engagement friction so it no longer rolls. Sometimes CV joints are warn too, so it’s harder to turn. Or maybe even when the power steering pump is working harder than before

  • Euphemistic on 07/09/2020 - 14:03
    +1

    Is the centre diff binding? Mine went in 2003 forester, but symptom was clunking front end when turning.

    • GOCAT9 on 07/09/2020 - 14:36

      no "clunking front end when turning" so assume centre diff not binding.

      • Euphemistic on 07/09/2020 - 15:15

        Given 10 years had passed between your model and mine, it is possible the centre diff is different tech. Maybe check out a Scooby doo forum for more help.

  • brad1-8tsi on 07/09/2020 - 14:31

    Tyre pressures or a different tyre?
    Wheel alignment way out Too much toe in/out.
    Binding brakes inc handbrake
    Faulty hill hold? (does it have one).
    Idle speed below specification

    Plus the other helpful things above

    • GOCAT9 on 07/09/2020 - 14:41
      +1
      1. all tyre pressures are same.
      2. no evidence of uneven wear on front tyres, also moves straight when steering wheel centred, so probably not??
      3. binding brakes: when vehicle is on level surface in neutral and handbrake off, I can manually push vehicle, so suspect no binding.
      4. vehicle does not have hill hold (also it it an automatic)
      5. idle speed appears normal (750-800rpm)
      6. thanks for your comments.
  • Bid Sniper on 07/09/2020 - 14:49

    Was a test for worn center diff, cant remember.

    Creep on incline?

  • GOCAT9 on 18/01/2022 - 10:13

    CONCLUSION: In an attempt to solve this problem I finally decided to bite the bullet and I removed the rear section of the vehicle’s propeller shaft. This is only a 10min job.

    The car now runs just great in FWD only and all the torque binding instantly disappeared and has never returned since ( about 1 month ago now).

    SO: PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!

Login or Join to leave a comment
Login Join