Buying Used Private: Should Pre-Purchase Inspection Be Done Before or After Agreeing on Price?

Greeting OzB!

Would love to hear your opinions!

Looking to purchase a used performance-oriented car (Golf R/ RS3 / M140 etc).

Should the PPI be done before or after agreeing on price (pending inspection)?

On a similar topic, getting PPI (off-site) on a used dealer car: is this something commonly done?
And is there value in getting a mobile mechanic to do a PPI if (I presume) they can't hoist the car up?

Thank you all in advance!

:)

Comments

  • +8

    If it is within warranty, dealer/private doesn't matter.

    Slightly out of warranty, if all else being equal, I'd go with the dealer.

    Out of statutory warranty (older than 8-10years depending on state) I'd go whichever is cheaper if all else is equal.

    I don't bother with mechanic PPI unless the mechanic is super familiar with that particular model. The mechanic cannot tell you everything, only what he sees. Unless a part is obviously wrecked, there is nothing they can tell you that a thorough investigation with a torchlight and some common sense cannot tell you.

    If you are going to do a PPI, do it after price agreement with clause pending inspection.

    Things to look out for. The car should start from cold easily.

    Check wear and tear parts. On the models you listed, it's just timing belt/chain, fluid levels. Also make sure no corrosion and all fluid levels are perfect.

    Take the car for a drive. There should be zero error codes. Zero rattles. Zero problems.

    If any of the above isn't quite right, just walk away. I've heard all the excuses - car doesn't start easily because old battery, dropped something in bonnet earlier so there is a rattle, fluids kept low so it doesn't gelatinize… Assume all problems are not easily fixable.

    PPSR check goes without saying.

    Lastly, bring money to place a deposit. Get an agreement in writing. Take delivery asap.

    • +1

      Thanks for the useful advice!

    • Thank you so much for your detailed reply! Super helpful!

      For the longest time I was under the wrong impression that warranty stops after the first owner. Happy to be to know that I was wrong in that regard.

      Yes I was referring to more specialist workshops, especially for modded ones.

      If you are going to do a PPI, do it after price agreement with clause pending inspection.

      What would be a reasonable pending clause? Like could I say: No signs of previous structural damage / repair. No immediate parts replacement required costing more than x amounts of dollars?

      And yes without a doubt PPSR for sure!

      Lastly, bring money to place a deposit. Get an agreement in writing. Take delivery asap.

      When doing up an agreement with a deposit, what needs to be included in it for it to have "power"?

      Obviously nobody should ever carry that amount of cash around. What's the best/safest way for both party to finalise the payment?

      Thank you so much for your reply!

      Off-topic but I am really thankful for the fatherly advice I've often received from OzB either directly or indirectly! (father passed way when young)

      • +2

        Exit clause - The buyer may choose to exit the contract with deposit fully refunded should the PPI reveal that the vehicle is not to the buyer's satisfaction. The clause expired after X days of deposit paid.

        Of course, the clause above is one sided to you. You should make that very clear to the seller before they even read the contract. It is how you present the clause.

        "I have included an exit clause that appears I may not proceed but at that point, I will be financially invested to continue as I would have paid for a PPSR and PPI."

        Letting the seller know that he is not the only one inconvenienced should the sale falls through will make it more acceptable. Also, assuring the seller that you will do the PPI asap and a short "cooling down" period will help your case.

        Also, always address payment and delivery of the vehicle. Have it in the contract.

        1. We will meet at X bank. The seller is to drive the vehicle and park at closest location for a final inspection. The vehicle is to be presented in condition as per previous inspection.

        2. Buyer to do a direct transfer via the bank's teller. The receipt of transfer will be sufficient evidence of the transfer.

        3. Ownership of the vehicle will be assumed by the buyer at the moment of the fund transfer.

        Prior to the transfer, you should have arranged for comprehensive insurance to start on the same day. You should be insured the moment you take the keys. No exception.

        Don't take a loan to buy the car. Buy within your means.

  • +1

    Before, IMHO. You should make sure any used privates you buy is 100% clean, or at least manageable. That would factor in to the price. Try and avoid privates with known issues, e.g. STI.
    :)

  • +1

    My preference is to know I want the car before I negotiate a price for a private sale. This will include any mechanical inspection and the PPSR check. I’m not going to bother negotiating, then have an inspection and potentially need to renegotiate due to faults found or to walk away knowing I’d made some sort of deal that I would buy. Not that it really matters about walking away from a private sale, it just makes the process more pleasant to negotiate the price, then pay up. Writing up a ‘contract’ for a private sale seems like a waste of time.

    Inspect, negotiate, pay deposit, arrange full payment and exchange.

    Having said that, I have done a PPI in a car I’ve bought. I do enough research to know what issues there might be, then do my own mechanical inspection. However, I have plenty of experience with mechanicals (but not a trained mechanic) to know what to look for.

  • +2

    A full service history is my deal-breaker. I recently purchased through a dealer, though my situation was I had no car to even get around to the car yards. I finally found one I liked, and hired a mobile mech I know to give it a thorough once-over. He's pretty good and presented a complete report including the readings from his electronic gizmo which pointed out a couple of things that were then seen to. The car was over an hour by public transport but based on his rec, I went and simply signed the papers & then drove it away. We're getting ripped off in WA (due to COVID BS up-pricing everywhere), so check your agreed price is insurable for that amount.

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