House Building Inspection: Moisture / Subfloor Close to Ground

Hi Guys,

After months of struggle, finally I got a house which I am interested and also my offer got accepted by Vendor. Was on cloud-9 until today when I got the building inspection report in my inbox.

The property is 50 years old.

As per the report and building inspector below are the major issues.

1) The house is constructed in a wrong method, where the builder has not left any space for ventilation under subfloor. He mentioned that
—->>"A subfloor void appears to be present however, we were unable to locate an entry point and
therefore no inspection of the subfloor area was carried out.
Crawl space was limited due to the method of construction resulting in a limited visual inspection from a distance being carried out"

2) Secondly he mentioned that the entire house is very close to ground. (Its built on Brick Piers)

Due to the above, he mentioned that the house is having significant moisture contents in the walls of almost all rooms/areas.

Now, I am really worried if I need to proceed with purchase of this house or walk-away ?

Regarding point # 1, building inspector recommended that, I need to get the installation of new bronze mesh high airflow vents to improve the
currently inadequate underfloor ventilation.

However, he is not sure how much that can present the moistures in the wall.

Please help/advice,

Thank you so much

Comments

  • +9

    I'd pass.

  • +2

    50 years old and has high moisture levels in the walls. Hard pass.

  • +2

    Firstly, I don't work in the trade, but AFAIK there are solutions.

    You can search for "rising damp solutions" - understand it for yourself and see if that is what you may need to do.

    How do you fix rising damp? The only way to treat rising damp is to create a new damp-proofing course to prevent moisture movement through the structure.

    All walls should have damp proofing, but it ages as it gets old and it no longer blocks the moisture

    You can install subfloor fans to keep the subfloor ventilated.

    I reckon it is all fixable, but if you love the location and the property, you could invest time and $ to fix it, something you'll need factor in if you think it is worth it.

    • Thanks a lot.. Feeling better… able to breath now.. Thank you so much

    • +1

      Second the above approach.

      Sub floor fans have assisted me in the past. You can get solar powered ones on eBay, so they run in the day when the outside temperature is higher than under the house, and don't run at night when the humidity is high outside (which defies the purpose, i.e cold air being sucked in)

      Also, as mskeggs said below, if it's stood for 50 years and still structurally sound, chances are should an issue arise it may be expensive yet fixable. Think of it this way, how much is the land really worth if you had to rebuild (unlikely worse case scenario)? Is it in a perfect suburb/location to your needs? If yes, then probably a worthwhile risk.

    • Most older houses didn't have any damp proof courses.

      my 50yo house certainly doesn't.

  • +3

    Maybe negotiate the price down a little?

    • Thanks Mate, however the vendors received multiple offers.

      None of my offers where successfull other than this house… every other property my offers were out-bidded by nearly 100K :( …

      example: If the advertised price is 800K to 900K… the house getting sold at ~ 980K or more .. :(

      • +5

        Maybe there’s a reason why nobody else wanted to put in a higher offer than yours…. You could have a real issue or it could be nothing - building inspectors are reporting worst case scenarios because you’re paying them for a service. If they found nothing you’d think it was a waste of money right? Try to get some costs from a builder for increasing ventilation and then make your call.

  • +2

    Pass.

  • +3

    Are you buying at the top of your budget? If so I would walk away.

    You are purchasing something which you have told will need remedial work from day one. This could be thousands of dollars.

    At the very least get a quote to complete the required work and understand what you are getting yourself into. If purchasing this house is going to leave you without spare cash in the short term then you should not proceed.

    • +3

      Brick walls or timber/plaster?

      I agree with hiddenbicycling. Find out the cost to fix the issues but if it's a solid house in a great location and your budget allows it may be a relatively cheap problem to fix. $10-20k for example is a drop in the ocean when you're spending (X?),XXX,XXX on a house assuming your budget allows for it and you love the house/location etc.

      I'm in a house built in the 30's and I'd hate to see what a building report would say about our house. But it's been rock solid for the past 10 years we've been in it. Recently got it restumped just because it never had been, but living in it, it hasn't really given us any major issues. But I'm sure a building report would present a long list…

      I'd be much more worried about a house built in the last 5-10 years than one that has been standing for 50+. But hey, I'm no builder.

      • I can spend $10 - $20K to fix the problems… as the property and location are just perfect…. but I am worried, even if I get these fixed, will the moisture going to keep high as ground is close to subfloor and read in google that moistures in walls can cause health problems..

      • Hello,

        Walls are made up of :- Timber frame with fibre cement sheeting.

        is that bad compared to Brick walls

  • +6

    I’d be a bit more relaxed.
    This place has stood for 50 years, and Sydney just got smashed with intense rain.
    Adding some extra ventilation under floor seems sensible, but it’s hard to understand what problem could emerge now that hasn’t emerged in 50 years.

    If there are systemic damp problems, the building report will note the issues, and you will be able to see the staining on the walls etc.

    Go have a look yourself, and see if it is unreasonably close to the ground. There are plenty of houses with less than 50cm clearance. If it was really tight, I’d be more concerned about accessing services like plumbing and power/gas than damp.

    • Thanks, very interesting thoughts!

      The house is entirely painted some 4-5 years ago, when the current vendor purchased the house.

      On one of the wall, I saw the slight water marks appearing over the paint

      • +2

        4-5 years ago, when the current vendor purchased the house.

        So this moisture issue is the reason they are selling I guess

        • Not sure, as we know, they won't reveal the truth if that was the case.

          REA said that they wanted to move to a place which is close to their extended families. (Not sure if this is true or not)

  • +1

    Meh i think all older double brick homes will have some sort of moisture issues, its part of the design of a double brick house.

  • +1

    They inject resin in the bricks to stop the rising damp. Also they put subfloor ventilators. You need to be prepared to live with some damp smell perhaps. I’ve heard dehumidifiers and airconditioners are effective in cleaning the air. Call Buildfix for an inspection and quote for raising damp, they specialise in this area.

    • sure, thank you so much for the suggestions. Appreciate your help

  • -1

    Just buy it mate:)

    Buy now, worry later! 🤣

    • +1

      The OzBargain mantra!

  • I think this would be pretty common in a lot of old double brick houses. I have a double brick Edwardian terrace in a whole street of them and they all have these issues. In mine when I started replacing some of the floorboards I found that floor joists were touching the earth in some places. And they just didn't put in damp courses in those days. But as others have said there are things you can do to mitigate

  • +4

    My 1900s Glebe NSW terrace had slate damp course and rising damp due to a small river running under the house when it rained.
    I fixed it by:
    1) cleaning out a build up of debris blocking the inefficient terracotta vents.
    2) Installing 4 of the double brick size brass vents which are truly excellent.
    3) getting into the crawl space and digging out as much dirt as possible. In some spots there was only 250mm air space. I kind of mined my way in there.
    It cost me around $200 in parts and around 4-5 saturdays.

    My GF has an old terrace. She was getting mould in her cupboards that was ruining her clothes, also health issues. She has brass vents but they weren't helping much
    She installed a $4000 system that has two components. One that brings air from the roof space and puts it under the house on a simple timer system. We used to have it set for off-peak times, now it's set for day time running off the solar.

    The second component vents into the 3 rooms in the old part of the house. It's on a thermostat system that can assist in cooling or heating the house.
    It's very good but not $4000 good.

    • Excellent. This is really helpful details. Thanks heaps!

      • +1

        The brand is HRV but they appear to be no longer supported in Sydney.
        Home Ventilation Systems - HRV http://www.hrv.com.au

        If you do get a system, ask how much the filters are as ours are $150 each every 12 months and hard to get. Add in the electricity and it does start to cost (but cheaper than throwing out several $500 dresses).

        For a passive vent system to work you need crossflow ventilation.

        • Thank you so much for the details.

  • +2

    One thing to note is that this house has been standing with this problem for 50 years (it was built this way), and will probably stand strong until it is knocked down. Someone will buy this, ignore the problem, and repaint the walls every few years. There are probably many houses on that street with similar moisture problems.

  • +1

    Many old houses have this issue as it's a design issue.

    It's not going to collapse if it;'s been standing for 50 years.

    As per above, I'll install vents and if necessary a fan to push/pull moisture out.

    Another thing is to make sure all the downpipes are working and any rain run off is graded away from the house, i.e. you don't want water near the foundations.

    Worse comes to worst, you can inject the mortar with resin to make it damp proof.

    • You are spot on, the current owners have kept the downpipes open and is flowing just near the building…

      Thank you so much… very valuable inputs…I will follow these..

      • That's probably the cause of the problem. Fix that and and add some vents.. I'm sure it's good for another 50 years.

        When funds permit, insulate under the floorboards too. Will make for a warmer house, particularly if you have polished floorboards.

  • +2

    Major red flags with this purchase…. As such proceed only if the value of the land is near to the price being bought for.

    Building regulations provide for a minimum sub floor space to enable people to crawl under…. It should be a minimum of 600mm to underside of floor bearer. This will allow for proper inspection and ventilation.

    If the inspector could not see the subfloor then you need another inspection. There could be serious rot down there and termites. Talk to seller about making an access hole to get in there.

    Damp walls means high moisture and so high chance of termites.

    You would need to open up/ create major ventilation port holes to properly ventilate the sub floor.

    • You are right, currently there is no space for people to crawl under this. I will get the ventilation created soon after purchase. Thank you

      • +2

        So after you ask advice and nearly everyone says run, your still buying?

        • +1

          based on all OPs responses, i think they were just after confirmation of their decision. rather than seriously reconsidering buying.

          • +1

            @shakoo: correct - mind was made up before asking.

            • @pharkurnell: Yes and No.

              This house had everything positive (location/price/looks/size, number of Bed's,bath's, walkable distance to train station, No carpets, near to school)

              Except the negative news of moisture due to subfloor conditions.

              My worries were to know — How big is this problem and any known solutions/fixes from the people who had been through these or know someone been through these.

              I am really thankful for all the comments which I received from you all kind people.

              • @Michael8899: Have a google for Mold and uninhabitable houses… If it gets bad or goes unchecked, or the vent under house doesnt work.. you could be in poo.

  • Hello everyone, just an update,
    The walls are made up of ——> Timber frame with fibre cement sheeting.

    So does it make the matter worse than having brick walls ?

    Cheers,

    • Depends if the fibre cement sheeting is really ASBESTOS in disguise?

    • +1

      Most likely asbestos cement sheeting

      Most likely to have rotten timber

      The house will be a knock down in a year or two

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