Oil for New Car Servicing

So I got myself a new i30 N-Line, 1500km service in 1.5 weeks and I'm looking at getting an oil change in the service because I'm a little over-the-top like that. I asked my Hyundai dealer and they said I can provide my own oil if I like. Looking at the car manual, I need either a 5W30 or 5W40 and it need to be either a API SN Plus/SP OR ACEA A5/B5. I've been exploring different brands and seeing what meets those classifications.

Now the advice I'm after is, which one of the following oils would you use, and why. Or should I just let Hyundai use their own oil which is Castrol Magnatec Professional 5W30 which is a A5/B5. I would have liked to use Castrol Edge but that is a A3/B4 oil and I don't want to give Hyundai any excuses not to honour warranty given the chance.

These are the ones I have found so far;

SN Plus
Shell Helix Ultra X 5W-30
Valvoline SynPower 5W-30

Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5W30
Nulon Full Synthetic Full Synthetic 5W-30 Ford, Hyundai, Kia, Mazda Specification
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30

Thanks all.


  • +7

    What's the price difference? Is this really worth worrying about when you've bought a brand new $30-40k car?

    • Well Hyundai are charging $50 for their oil, and I can get most of those for about that price. So just seeing if anyone recommends anything better.

      Not really worrying about it. But I had an Elantra before this car where the used that Magnatec and while the 2.0L Hyundai engine is already a fairly noisy engine, it was really quite noisy until warm. I've run Nulon Full Syn before and it really quietened my 300K Commodore engine down.

      • +9

        Why are you wasting your time when Hyundai does it for $50 with their factory spec oil?

        • Well ironically its not the Hyundai factory spec oil. Hyundai actually recommend Shell oils. Hyundai Australia use Castrol oils. Guess they got a good deal.

          So since I can get most of those oils for about the same price, just seeing if anyone recommends other oils.

  • +2

    Once you make sure viscosity matches manufacturer's recommendation, and any manufacturer specific specs for the model is met, there's not much difference between brands really.

    I have attention to detail, I notice stuff many don't, but I am never able to confirm claims such as X brand oil makes the car quieter, Y model makes it more powerful etc., even if I try really hard.

    I personally get Mobil 1 when it's on sale just because it's the factory fill oil for many exotic cars. Totally unscientific way of picking an oil, but you can't go wrong as long as you stick with big brands.

    • Not a bad way of seeing it. Kinda funny that Hyundai actually align with Shell oil, but Hyundai Australia align with Castrol. Guess money talks best.

      • +3

        Different countries have different conditions and therefore potentially different requirements. It's very different climate for Hyundai Australia than other countries Hyundai is based in.

        • That is a solid point.

      • It will be the dealership using Castrol. They are free to use whatever brand they want as long as it meets the specification.

        The sticker under the bonnet that says "Brand X cars maker recommends Brand Y oil" is purely advertising based on the oil supply deal to the manufacturer. I know that VW/Skoda change brands every few years depending on who will supply lubricants /coolant at the best deal.

        The Australian vehicle manyufacturers (Ford / Holden / Chrysler, etc) used to play Goodyear against Dunlop to supply tyres to the manufacturing line as it was known that 70% of owners would stick with the tyre brand fitted new when replacement was needed. Goodyear used to work on a <5% margin to supply OEM. The retail margin at the time was 100%+.

        • And yet the dealerships charge full retail price for those tyres. Sneaky buggers.

          Pretty happy with the tyres on the i30 though. Came with Michelin Pilot Sport 4 from factory. Very nice rubber.

          • @AdosHouse: Dealerships are a totally separate entity from manufacturers.

  • Pentrite 5w30 a5b5

    • I did look at Penrite too, I only didn't list it because years ago when I had my Commodore, engine was louder on the Penrite Full Syn oil.

      Does it serve you well?

      • Nothing wrong with Penrite plus it's Aussie but really, for $50 if you want the oil changed just let the dealer user their own then there can't be any argument regarding warranty down the track.

      • engine was louder on the Penrite Full Syn oil

        Without a MsPaint link with decibel counts before and after is this true?

        It could be the Engine was running with less friction, so would rev more hence more noise from the revs…. 😀

        • LOL. That logic is infallible.

          But my personal experience was that the tapping sound was a bit louder with the Penrite and to a lesser degree with the Shell fully synthetic too. But quieter with the Nulon. In saying that it was the Ecotec motor with over 300k on it. And engine kept going to years after that.

          • @AdosHouse: Ecotec with semi regular oil changes is good for 500k km's easy.

      • Pentrite has served me well over the years. Never had an issue with it in Kia, Hyundai, Ford and Holden.

        BTW don't waste your money on a 1500k oil change. It's just not necessary theses days. If it was important the manufacturers would make it a service item.

        • I agree. You either change the oil before 500km after a really enthusiastic run-in or leave it until the recommended kms/time period.

  • If it's a 1500km service, isn't it complimentary, whatever consumables they use

    • +1

      Apparently not. I'm in the same boat as the OP and the dealer said I'd have to pay extra if I wanted the oil changed.

      • Well, Hyundai sucks in that case. Or maybe because they charge because you're not supposed to change the oil that early? (I'm no car expert so probably wrong somewhere)

        • +2

          Mines a Toyota. :)

          Yeah they say the oil doesn't need to be changed until 12 months or 15K or so but with a new car I always like to change the oil at the first service (which is basically just a check over). There's always bits of stuff from manufacturing that can end up there once the engine has settled in a bit and as I keep my cars for a long time I like to be proactive in that regard.

          • @EightImmortals: I also have a Toyota. But I didn't go and ask to get the oil changed at the first service either :) Not that it's drastically affected the running of my car (I dutifully get it serviced twice a year, which is 10 this year).

            Today I learned!

          • @EightImmortals: I always do the same with a new car, get the oil changed at 1500km using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 when they do the so called 'inspection' and also get a new oil filter fitted.

            I supply the oil and filter so it doesn't cost more than a few dollars to get done.

            It's cheap insurance IMO.

    • +2

      Not these days. First service is basically just an inspection.

  • For a consumer grade vehicle the weight & grade of oil is really the only things to worry about - not the brand. So whether it's Castrol A5/B5 or Shell is of no discernable difference.

    Honestly the thing I'd be more checking is DID the dealership say they'd reduce their fee IF you supplied your own oil? As I've found my local Hyundai dealership (who SUCK, Coffs Harbour FYI) refused to do this.

    They stated the capped price servicing costs were set and even if I supplied my own consumables, they'd not deduct this from the end bill. Suffice to say I went elsewhere and Hyundai Australia confirmed dealerships have discretion to charge less than capped prices IF they want (and I know some will deduct costs if you provide oil, filters etc).

    So if nothing else make sure you are not paying for the oil twice - but I'd use whatever is most cost effective for the given weight/grades and just change regularly.

    • This isn't a capped price servicing, but an extra service on top of the service.

  • +11

    Really, you have paid in the vicinity of $35K for a new car, and you want to save a few bucks on the oil.

    And what happens if the engine fails, you then could have arguments about whether it was the oil you supplied.

    Why go thru the stress?

    Frankly if I was the service manager, I'd say go somewhere else, its just fraught with issues and wastes time on all sides.

    Hyundai use the oil that suits their engines. Yes they chose different brands in different countries, just like tyres etc.

    Its all contracted thats the way they save money, but its done to a standard. Just like the oil you buy must meet that standard otherwise it will void the warranty.

    • +1

      Agree 100%. Especially for the first service from a dealer. You'd be crazy to try and use any other oil than from Hyundai.

      If the engines got problems down the track they can always claim the oil was contaminated or some other rubbish that can be disproven.

    • Nothing to do with saving a buck. Just wanted others opinions as to whether another oil would be better.

      I do get what you are saying and after all the posts here I am now leaning back to letting the dealership use their own oil.

      • Just wanted others opinions as to whether another oil would be better.
        To paraphrase an old advertising line ‘oils is oils’. If it meets the spec, it meets the spec and will do the job. Any advantages of one particular oil over another will be minute in the scheme of things. Different brands being better is all about the marketing budget, not the oil.

  • My concern would be the potential impact on a dealer's idea of the warranty.

    Sure, the ACL states that it should be fine as long as it matches manufacturer specs, but that's an annoying and hard path to take. Personally I wouldn't want to risk introducing an avenue for dealer's to reject warranty claims.

    Imagine if this dealer disappears/is bought out/you start going to another dealer and the engine blows up. "Oh nah mate, doesn't matter what they said. We don't believe the warranty covers you providing your own oil as we can't guarantee its the rights stuff/non genuine parts/etc etc"

  • Doesn't Hyundai offer a capped price service plan? Just use that.

    • This would count as an extra service. Car manufacturers don't seem to change the oil at the 1500km service any more. So I'm paying for this. Otherwise without the oil change, the service is free.

      • why do you need it changed so soon?

  • Buys $40,000ish car, wants to save $5 on oil. You will spend more time researching it and trying to find and going to buy it than what the $5 is worth. Just use what the dealer puts in it. Would be a different story if they were trying to charge you $150 for oil that you could get for $50…

    • Has nothing to do with saving money. I'm happy to spend more on the oil than the $50 the dealership is charging. Just simply looking to see if others think a different oil would be better, but the general consensus here seems to be not to worry and just let the dealership do their thing.

  • I'm happy to spend more on the oil than the $50 the dealership is charging.


    Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 costs me twice what the stealership overcharges for their oil, but they change the brand of bulk oil they buy, depending on what discount the oil company gives them, on a regular basis.

    I prefer to pay more and know that I'm getting what (I believe) is the best protection I can buy for my car every time it's serviced.

  • As above, let Hyundai take car of the service according to the manufacture recommendations. OE stuff they use is good.

    Personally I would not change the oil at 1500km, suppose to run on the factory mineral oil until 5000km before switching to synth/semi synth.

    Only thing I disagree with (Kia) is gearbox oil changed at 100,000km. I had it done at 50,000km, shifting is much better.

    PS I30N is a nice car, still waiting to see the I20N in local dealerships

    • suppose to run on the factory mineral oil until 5000km before switching to synth/semi synth.

      What? Link to this info?

      • You know I had to look that up because its old school knowledge and these are new engines. I had a look both in my Subaru and Kia Manuals even, only said keep it under 4000 for first 1000km. Seen a lot conflicting stuff including thrashing it on break in which I think is insane.

        link explaining why in terms of aircraft engine (Boxer engine like my STI) but Id just follow what the manufacture says.

    • I agree the i30N is a nice car, and I 100% wish I could have got one. But alas I merely have a lowly i30 N-line.

      • N-Line still great cars, totally underrated. I have a Kia Proceed GT as a daily, has same engine as your N-line, its peppy and fun, low end torque is amazing knowing its only a 1.6L

        • First couple of days driving it I was finding myself breaking the speed limit. Engine is quite effortless in getting to the speed limit.

          Having come from the 2.0L non turbo engine, I love this 1.6L.

          I would love to take the i30N for a spin though.

          • @AdosHouse: Comes with a LSD, think will make a big difference. I do like the i30N but cant justify the price. I'm interested in the I20N, same engine as ours but with a factory LSD. Want to give it a go and see if want to slap in a LSD into my GT. Looks a bargain fun car

  • suppose to run on the factory mineral oil until 5000km

    If you consider factory mineral oil as a 'run in' type of oil the running in of a modern engine is done in the first couple of hundred kms or so and changing it at 1500km won't do any harm..

    • Not sure, Subaru dealers told me 5000km run on factory mineral. They're supporting the warranty so I'm not deviating from that.

      • +1

        Different manufacturer, different engine type, different requirements.

  • +1

    @AdosHouse (OP)

    Congrats on an I30N , if the GR Yaris didn't come out i probably would have purchased one myself…they are very nice car and very capable

    I have a GR Yaris , it uses 0w-20 as factory fill (yes , i am not joking) …on startup the car actually sounds like a tractor its that noisy…and not of a good kind either.

    I called up several Toyota Service Departments and asked if i can use anything else due to the Australian Climate and all of the responses i got was " well this is what it says in our computer to use so i can't really say" , i consulted the service manual myself …nope says just 0w-20.

    I looked up the oil and did a lot of research on this specific oil and whilst it is a high quality oil , i managed to find a substitute oil in a 5w-30 grade that basically mimicked the specifications required by the OEM 0w-20. (Primarily LSPI/ILSAC GF6 and API/SP) and the fact its fully synthetic.

    Now the car runs quieter and sounds normal on startup , bye bye tractor noise , i use a little extra fuel but having that extra piece of mind is important and when the oil is on sale i only pay $37 , i still use genuine toyota oil filters until 3rd party vendors become available cheaper but i can do my own interim services with my own peace of mind knowing should anything happen to the engine i will definitely be having my day in court fighting for Toyota to prove it was me "not using OEM fill" that caused the issue…but the way i see it if you service your vehicle regularly you won't run into any drama. at the end of the day i am not a tight arse and if you own a high performance car then you need to look after it.

    My 2c , fulfill your warranty obligations however if you are pushing the car hard constantly and doing more then 15,000km's in a year that should mean 3 oil changes W filter and at least one full transmission fluid change every couple of track days. (Gearbox + Front Diff/Transaxle)

    Oil's ain't oils and it is important to know what to use , ill post a couple of links below that make for some good reading but always take everything you read online with a grain of salt.

    [Not Affiliated with any of these sites]

    About Engine Oils / Penrite
    Engine Oil Specifications
    Engine Oil Spec Calculator - This one is really nifty to visually see how different oils compare/perform based on specification alone

    • Thanks mate, some good reading there.

      0w20? That's an interesting oil to use.

      • Hybrid oil, the RAV uses 0w16. Needs to have thin oil due to the stop-starting at high revs I guess?

  • Penrite
    ENVIRO+ 12 FE 5W-30 (FULL SYN.)

    • +1

      That Enviro thing is purely a gimmick - there is no proper science to back it up. Similar to how Castrol edge and magantec and have "intelligent molecules" like if you took basic chem 101 you would know there is no such thing as an intelligent molecule. There may be additives but its just pure marketing at this point - at the end of the day these oil companies have to meet strict specifications

  • +1

    Honestly I'm a tad bit confused why you want to change your oil at 1500 km - what a waste of oil and money and the environment lol. Ok forget the environment but definitely money mate. At the end of the day as long as the oil is meeting your manuals specifications it should be fine. I'm personally a Castrol guy, but I'll buy Mobil or Penrite if they go on sale. Mobil is the OEM for a lot of companies - not sure about Hyundai but Mobil boasts a lot about being the OEM for Ferrari and other sport lux car brands.

    I think you may be overthinking this a little bit too much - unless your car is running on vegetable oil I wouldn't change it at only 1500km, and its a bloody Hyundai so they have some decent engineering too.

    Nulon and Gulf Western will always be your more cheaper brands.

    • -1

      Overthinking stuff, that's literally my specialty. But I see what you're saying.

  • Does it need a special N-line oil?

    • Well the N-line has the 1.6L engine while the other i30 models have the 2L, so…..I guess?

      I there an oil additive that makes it go from a N-Line to a i30N? Because that would be amazing.

      • See if you need to get this done too, usually at 100,000km service, but some people do it every 10,000km.


        • -1

          Nah nah, I have the LED headlights, which means the blinker fluid is okay for the lifetime of the car.

          As for the muffler bearings though, I will be getting them changed every 50,000km.

  • From what I understand OZB's favourite castrol edge a3/b4 oil will also suffice. A3/B4 meets or exceeds the requirements for A5/B5 according to this thread.


  • Never got charge extra for changing the oil when servicing at hyunday and the last time i did was less than a month ago. You can, of course, choose your own oil but if the engine have issues after that there will be a lot of back and forth emails for responsabilities…

    I used hyunday service for years now. And, while they are a bit more expensive for servicing , i know that if something occurs like product recall or default product under warranty… they will do what is necessary. Free of charge and no back and forth email. It saves me a lot of hassle compare to another european brand we own .

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