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WPL C14 (aka Toyota Hilux) Kit (Red) 1/16 Scale US$17.50 (~A$24.17) Delivered @ Banggood


WPL C14. Typical price is around AU$60

This is the kit version which means it doesn't include any electronics apart from the motor and servo. So it will need a transmitter, receiver, ESC and battery at the very least.

Even without electronics its a fairly nice model of an iconic car.

Kit version Pros:

  • more involved than just opening a box
  • lets you choose the transmitter and electronics you want without paying for the ones you don't


  • factoring transmitter (eg DumboRC x6 or the official WPL v3 sound kit) and electronics, likely cost more than the ready to run version, but not by much

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closed Comments

  • Good deal. Recommend getting the metal upgrade parts and the electrics together. Alternatively buy them directly from wpl. https://www.wpl-rc.com/collections/latest-addition
    Have ordered many times before. They are reliable. There's also a large community following behind this brand which is always a good thing if you're new to RC.

    • I am disagree in regards this good for people new to rc, the amount of modifications required to even make the rc even run is insane. D series Is much better bet for newbies, and by the time you add electronics to this thing it already cost you the same as D series. Unless you really want crawler.

      • I didn't recommend this for a newbie but come to think of it, I disagree with your disagree. I think it's a good place to start if you want to build rc cars. Simply because it's cheap, parts and support are good and there's a large community. Wpl sell all electrics and upgrade parts in house so it's really convenient for someone new.

        The D series from wpl is ready to run so sure it's newbie friendly. There are plenty of cheap RTR rc but there aren't many cheap kits with a good community.

        • +3

          RTR is good for people wanting a toy. DIY build if you want a hobby.

          • @watts: Where were you when I started :)

            I was a newbie who wanted to get into RC as a hobby for tinkering and upgrading. However the first vehicle I bought was a MN99s RTR as that was the advice I read. It was crap. The electronics when they worked were bad, and they didn't work for long. So I paid $80 for the RTR, then paid $50 more for the replacement ESC, transmitter and receiver to fix the fried parts.

            In hindsight I should have understood what I wanted out of RC as a hobby and that the RTR was never capable of scratching that itch. If I'd bought a kit version and off the shelf electrics to start with, it would have saved me money and I would have a considerably better end product.

            • @CyberGenesys: " If I'd bought a kit version and off the shelf electrics to start with, it would have saved me money and I would have a considerably better end product."
              A familiar story for almost everyone new to RC. And good point most cheap RTR's suck!

            • @CyberGenesys: I don't know whether to laugh or cry when I hear numbers like $80 for RTR and $50 for radio kit. It's insanely cheap compared to what was available when it was a serious hobby for me ~15yrs ago. I reckon I spent more than that on a single servo, or battery, or motor at my peak stupidity.

  • Cool, ordered one as I already have radios and ESC's. Gonna try and build a 2s pack with old laptop 18650 batteries.

    I can already see that upgrades are gonna cost me at least 4x the purchase price of the kit though haha.

    • I've done the thing with 18650 batteries sourced from old laptops. I didn't want to deal with balance leads so I bought a simple box which lets me swap out the batteries and charge them on a Nitecore i8. They do add bulk to it though.


      The upgrades that are worth it;
      * metal prop shafts, needed once you break the plastic ones

      Optional, but beneficial;
      * full metal axles, the plastic ones have a fair bit of slop in them (especially the steering).
      * suspension with oil damping, spring shocks are a bit bouncy. If you are using it as a low speed crawler, the standard shocks are fine.
      * wheel weights, significantly reduce vehicle roll over
      * metal tie rods, adjustable suspension linkages, debatable value, mostly just to reduce slop that's in the plastic parts

      Overrated upgrades;
      * 2 speed gearbox, the idea is nice, the setup is a bit fiddly and the top gear is too fast imho. Instead there is a motor/transfer case combo that includes a reduction gearset which gives much greater low speed control and higher power.

  • Noob here, do I just need the linked kit, this https://www.banggood.com/WPL-V3-Diesel-Version-Upgraded-Soun... and batteries?

  • Hello experts, i am new to this hobby and thanks to OZB recently bought wltoys 144001, so happy with it as is. However i am contemplating a brushless conversion sometime on my144001, which means i’ll probably end up with spare stock esc, motor, servo and transmitter. Do you think I’ll be able to use any of these on this model?

    • Me too

    • +1

      Short answer; yes, mount the 144001 servo and connect the 2 motor wires from the 144001 ESC to the C14 motor

      That said, I'm not 100% on the mechanics of electrical motors specifically what happens when you connect a ESC designed for a relatively large 540 motor (144001) to a much smaller 180 motor (WPL C14). My expectation is that the ESC will just operate at a very small percentage of its power capability?

      The receiver in the 144001 is a combo of ESC and receiver. The 144001 steering servo is also a 5wire (unlike the standard 3 wire in the C14 kit) which basically means you can't use it with any other receiver. The servo is the correct size physically to fit into the C14.

      The 144001 motor is far to big for the C14.

      FYI, in regards to the removal of the 144001 motor to go brushless, you will very likely need to purchase a replacement motor mount and pinion gear. WLtoys glue the pinion grub screws in and it is very likely you will not be able to remove it, or do so without damage

      • Thanks

      • Thanks, that's very helpful and equally thoughtful.
        I also saw few videos people struggling with removing mount and grub scews. Recently ALDI had mini soldering kit on special buy and I bought one with the assumption that I might be able to heat (using hot air setup) the screws and remove them, but will certainly order new mount and pinion just in case.

        Description from aldi soldering kit.
        "Maximum temperatures of up to 1150°C for flame welding and brazing, 450°C for the soldering tip and 600°C for hot air"

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