Iload Van, Upgrading The Front Speakers, Upgrade The in-Dash Tweeters Too?

buckerooni on 03/10/2021 - 23:20
Last edited 04/10/2021 - 10:24 by 1 other user

Hi All,

Looking to upgrade the front speakers in a 2016 iload van, already have an under seat sub (pioneer KSC-SW11) and realise there's tweeters in the dash! Not planning on upgrading head unit, but have a few options around the speakers/tweeters – that will be powered by the OEM head unit.

The tweeters don't seem that crisp, even with the treble right up, and am wondering which option will result in a better sounding system. I see the following options:

  1. Keep OEM tweeters, upgrade the front door speakers with 1 way woofers only i.e. Hertz C 165
  2. Upgrade tweeters and front door spearks to component speakers w/splits i.e. Rockford Fosgate P16-S
  3. Keep OEM tweeters, upgrade to co-axials, assuming the tweeter is garbage and a 2nd one is going to help! i.e. Pioneer TS-D65F

I imagine the install cost will increase with if I replace the in dash tweeters, but happy to spend up to around $350 for the kit and install (probably off a local guy via facebook!)

Interested in what people think and if there's some suggested products to go with.

Thanks!

Automotive

Comments

  • deme on 04/10/2021 - 00:07
    +1

    Just put a boombox on the roof if you want to annoy people.

  • spackbace on 04/10/2021 - 00:36
    +1

    Powered off the factory HU? 😂 Serious?

    Don't waste $350 if they're going to be lucky to get 20W RMS

    • This Guy on 04/10/2021 - 08:14

      OP asked for sound quality, not volume. Those P16-S's should improve that.

      You can gain more than 6dB just with placement. OP would be looking at 98dB just off 5 watts if someone who knew what they were doing did the install.

  • Mechz on 04/10/2021 - 07:23
    +3

    I reckon the stock head unit would be the problem more than the speakers and that's what I'd upgrade first. Then get a new set of splits if they still sound bad.

  • tsunamisurfer on 04/10/2021 - 12:21

    All this for an iLoad?

    • buckerooni on 04/10/2021 - 12:27
      +2

      sure, I'm in it everyday! I'm into making everyday things enjoyable!

  • buckerooni on 04/10/2021 - 12:41

    ok, I thought the HU might be good enough with highly efficient speakers.

    looking that the OEM specs (its a TQ-03 model):
    - 180 watts (4 x 45w)

    and a bit of googling 'Typically, a unit’s peak power handling is double the RMS power handling, which basically means that the above products are actually rated the same: 150 W peak/75 W RMS' I figure each channel will be around 20W RMS - sound about right?

    Looking at the Hertz ( https://www.ryda.com.au/hertz-c165-6-5-210w-car-audio-woofer… ) they are rated at 93dB - would this give me a noticable sound upgrade at 20 RMS?

    • brendanm on 04/10/2021 - 14:16

      I figure each channel will be around 20W RMS - sound about right?

      More like 12-15 probably.

      would this give me a noticable sound upgrade at 20 RMS?

      That is an efficiency rating, not sound quality rating. Completely depends on the sensitivity of your current speakers as to whether it would be louder or not.

  • buckerooni on 05/10/2021 - 10:13

    ok, looks like head units are pretty exxy, and likely to still need an amp to power speakers.

    but the common feedback is the HU itself, but a DSP has been suggested as a way to address this,

    with the rationale that I will probably need and am regardless of an upgraded head unit, do you think this will work OK? or the DSP will not really provide much benefit to the signal in.

    looking now at
    - swap out kenwood subwoofer and replace with Alpine PWD-X5 - an underseat sub & 4 channel amp with DSP
    - pioneer component speakers - TS-D65C - on sale at Ryda for $250!

    pushes up the price, but solves the problem of input quality (via DSP), amplification of speakers, and a better sub.

    would this work, or do you reckon the OEM HU will still be a massive issue?

  • buckerooni on 05/10/2021 - 12:58

    update: got the pioneer TS-D65Cs and the kicker KEY200.4 which has internal DSP which should give me a better sound inside the cabin.

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