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Anycubic Photon Mono X 4K Resin 3D Printer US$429 (~A$605.40) Delivered (AU Stock) @ Banggood


Looks like an all time low on this Anycubic Resin printer. $617.51 with insurance
Pretty sure these don't come with resin in the box so be sure to pick some up if you buy it!

Technical Specifications
● System : ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X
● Operation : 3.5 inch Touch Screen
● Software : ANYCUBIC Photon workshop
● Connectivity : USB
● Technology: LCD-based SLA
● Light-source: high-quality filament (wavelength 405nm)
● XY Res.: 0.050mm 38402400(4K)
● Z Axis Res.: 0.01mm
● Layer Res.: 0.01-0.15mm
● Printing Speed: MAX 60mm/h
● Rated Power: 120W
● Printer Size : 270mm(L)
● Build Volume: 192mm(L)
● Material: 405nm UV Resin
● Net Weight: ~10.75kg

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closed Comments

  • How much does the filament cost, how does this compare to other Resin printers?
    Any deals on cheaper models around $200?

    • Doesn't use filament, instead you use bottles of resin. Costs between 30-50 per L at the low end depending on your preference.

    • Filament and resin are 2 different things my dude. This is resin printer.

      If you want something cheap, then go for filament printers. Even if you find a decent price resin printer there's alot more work needed after printing with resin that adds more cost per print.

    • For $200 you're probably better off getting a second hand FDM printer that has been taken care of.
      The creality ender 3 is about $280 which is the baseline for budget printers

      • -2

        Are there any specials on the Creality Ender 3 right now?

        • +1

          Have a look and report back

    • Recommending Anycubic Mega Series. Better out-of-box print quality than Ender series but always cheaper with discount, and much entry-level friendlier interface, plus frequently goes lower than $200, even $150 for the smaller one. The biggest advantage of Ender 3 series compare to other printers is that they have a much larger user community… But I personally think Anycubic's community is fairly big enough for common problems and upgrades. Besides I think pushing every single new user into Creality Ender 3 is a very inappropriate practice for the prosperous of market variety lol

  • Always been keen for a 3d printer but anything remotely affordable I’ve been advised needs either a but load of upgrades or a lot of stuffing around and calibration (leading to upgrades anyway). Now I see resin is an option and I wonder, is it worth just straight up holding off for another 2-3 years to see what happens with 3d print tech or is it relatively actually an okay time to jump in now?

    • +3

      why wouldn't you just 'jump in now' if you want to enjoy the hobby? a few hundred dollars isn't much for a hobby that's pretty cool.

      I have an ender v2 pro and it does some great prints.

    • +2

      This is my first resin printer and the consumable cost for resin printing is a lot more than FDM printing but it also depends what you want out of them. Resin is good for fine detail but generally the print volume is much smaller, its good for making miniatures, this printer is about the biggest size you get sub $1000.

      FDM is great for much bigger things that aren't super intricate but you can still get really good results with some fine tuning. The prints you get out of FDM can be much stronger and you also have a wide range of material types to choose from

      There is quite a big learning curve getting into any sort of 3D printing, but there is a lot of resources out there now to help you compared to a few years ago

      • +2

        There's resins available that are much much stronger than FDM. Ameralabs TGM-7 is ridiculously strong for example, in strength tests it's about 1500% stronger than Elegoo Standard. Resin also doesn't have weakness along layer lines like FDM does. If you're trying to print something that inherently needs strength then resin is a better option, you just have to choose the right resins.

        • +1

          choose the right resins

          And pay through the nose for them. And tweak your printer for them.

          It's it definitely something you want to investigate before you commit to one printer or the other. Industrial resins have some great mechanical properties but costs can be 10x that of the "basic hobby" resins.

          Edit: the anycubic organic resin is cheap, and also has some flexibility (compared to how brittle the elegoo hd stuff is)

          • @BargainBogan99: I've never seen a resin that's 10x the price of a basic resin, but I don't doubt they exist. The super strong Ameralabs TGM-7 is the most expensive resin I've seen, and it's about 3x the price of basic resin.

            In terms of costs, if someone is printing Warhammer miniatures for example the retail cost per miniature tends to be about $10 each at the lower end, and $70 each at the higher end. There's approximately 10ml of resin in each miniature, so you get 100 miniatures from a litre bottle. You can break even using as little as 2% of the bottle even with the very expensive resins.

            Obviously you're not getting the exact thing that you get when you buy off the shelf, but in many cases the results are better.

    • +1

      I would start with a cheap filament printer first, its about 1/3 of upfront cost and consumable costs

    • +5

      I have an Anycubic Mono that I bought from an Australian company called 3d printing supplier (I have no connection to them, was just happy with their service). They're selling them for $250. There's nothing that needs to be upgraded on that printer. In terms of calibration, I ran a single test print, then changed one setting on my slicer program, did another test print which was perfect, and have been printing practically non stop since without a single print failure.

      I recommend people to get into printing at the low end of the market. Screens are cheap, parts are cheap, and you haven't lost the earth if you do something silly and break it or decide that printing isn't for you. It's a great time to get into the market, it's not going to get much more affordable and the results I'm getting from the printer are fantastic (printing wargaming miniatures). Be aware though that you need gloves, glasses, a respirator (I use a 3M), and somewhere to print that you don't mind getting stanky (I print in a small cabinet in my carport).

      I use SirayaTech Fast resin and it's excellent, and if anyone gets a Mono I can help with settings.

      • +2

        Cannot agree with this statement more.

        Get in cheap. You are limited by build volume, but as your first printer with little or no experience you're going to have a tonne of issues jumping straight into big prints.

      • Thanks mate, this is actually pretty insightful.

        FWIW I am actually looking to ultimately get into printing accessories for lighting (eg custom shades, holders, etc. for ELV LED lighting).
        Someone I follow on IG uses a flashforge guider 2s , but they're like over 2.2k easy before adding anything…. so thought I'd probably be best to get a cheapy in case it's not for me or if i stuff it up i'm not going to be too torn up over it.

        • +1

          From what I can see the main things that separate that printer from a $300 Ender 3 (which I own 2 of) is the enclosure and the hot end that goes to 300C which allows you to use a wider range of filaments, especially ones that stand up to high temp environments. For basic PLA even the interior temps in a car in summer are too hot. It's much much cheaper to buy an Ender 3 and upgrade it with an all metal hotend that will get up to the same temperature as the Guider 2 though if you need to use high temp filament though.

          Do note though that a resin printer and a filament printer are very very different animals. The build volume of an Ender 3 is 220 x 220 x 250mm which the build volume of an Anycubic mono is 130 x 80 x 165mm. There are larger resin printers available of course, but filament printers can scale up much more than resin printers.

    • +1

      Have a look at the Ender 3 line of printers. They're FDM instead of resin, but I think FDM is a better starting point for a number of reasons (and cheaper). They have great build quality and print pretty well out of the box. Calibration/bed levelling can be a pain, but you typically only need to do it when you first set it up, and then occasionally as needed afterwards. They can be had for between $200-300, so not a massive deal if you find the hobby isn't for you (and you can probably get most of that back via Gumtree).

  • +1

    Is this what people are using to make their "artisan" keycaps?

    • +1

      you can make keycaps with these, but if that's the biggest thing you want to make then you can step down to the small version of this and save a bit of money

    • -2

      They're using hand-poured resin and molds for the most part. At least that's what the really expensive ones are doing.

      • I've seen so many sellers listing handmade keycaps, only to find the same keycaps on aliexpress at a fraction of the cost. One seller on etsy must have bought out most of the food keycaps from Drop (which is already expensive) and is selling them at 3 times the price.

  • +1

    There are some other things you'll probably want to pick up along with a resin printer.

    At a bare minimum I would think you would need plenty of gloves, toothbrush, isoprophyl alcohol…

    Maybe an ultrasonic cleaner if you don't like scrubbing. Or those little magnetic spinny mixer thingmajigs you see in a science classroom.

    And my axe.

    • +4

      People go way overboard with the cleaning. I have two containers of methylated sprits. Prints get a quick shake in the first tub, then a quick shake in the second (much cleaner) tub, then they go into my curing box. No scrubbing needed, and I'm printing tiny gaming miniatures with tiny details that come out perfect.

      • i use the water washable resins, they perform just as well (done half a dozen prints only so far).
        and you can save on IPA expense.

        • As I mentioned I use methylated spirits rather than IPA. It's approximately $4 a litre and lasts a long time. The water washable resins are not generally recommended in the miniature making community as they're more brittle and more expensive than basic resins. I chose SirayaTech Fast after a lot of research, it's a bit stronger than water washable Elegoo +.

    • The two container shake method in metho is fine. It's a 100% improvement over brushing.

      A dedicated washign and curing stations are a 100% over the two container shake method though…

    • I would think a respirator would be top of the list?

  • Might be worth waiting for when they're on sale again like Christmas, for the same price you get some resin and the wash and cure

    • +1

      A short 10 months away for those deals

  • +1
  • Do I need a separate cure and wash machine for these resin printers?

    • +1

      you can do a diy wash with a couple of jars but for the curing process it is worth the investment in getting a proper one

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