Ducted Heating Vent on The Celling – Are They’Re Effective

Hi,

With the hope that there isn't an exorbitant price hike for houses, I'm looking to build my first home commencing this year.

I'm in Geelong Victoria. I'm looking at various heating option. Most homes that have been built in the last 20 years have ducted heating fitted with the vent on the ceiling. However, I'm concerned that this would create a cold-feet, warm head effect creating, which will result to an unpleasant heating experience. Is this still the case with a modern ducted heating system with the vents on the room? I always believe that hot air always rises & the best placement for them will be on the floor. However, since most homes are on a slab, it would be hard to achieve underfloor ducting without doing crazy modifications to the foundation.

I'm like having my rooms very warm throughout the colder months (since I get cold easy) and want to avoid making a poor decision with my heating, as it something that you can't easily change out. Is getting cold feet still common with ceiling mounted ducted heating? Can anyone here provide ideas on avoiding the cold-feet effect for ceiling-mounted ducted heating? Is there alternative heating solutions that I should consider?

Thanks!

Comments

  • Might be worth mentioning what type of cooling you are thinking of going with as there are pros and cons to each system some of which can utilise the same ceiling vents.

    • Sure thing, If I can afford it evaporative cooling. Otherwise, I might just stick with a couple of split system in the main room

  • +2

    I'm looking to build my first home commencing this year.

    Ditch gas in the build…. You'll save the connection fees, and gas inside is evil.

    I'm like having my rooms very warm throughout the colder months (since I get cold easy)

    6 star rated houses is the MINIMUM standard they are allowed to build/sell. Aim higher then, go better insulation in the walls/ceiling and get good window coverings.

    • +1

      electric cook tops are absolutely shit house

      gas or nothing for cook tops

      • +1

        You've fallen for the advertising. Electric is just as good especially induction. And you can lower the heat precisely to be able to make things like souflees, taffy, fudge and custards, can't do that with gas as it's either on or off. Gas also leaks carbon monoxide into your house whether or not you are using it.

        • +1

          You've fallen for the advertising. Electric is just as good especially induction

          Agreed, in Australia we are brainwashed that gas cooking, heating and hotwater is as good as it gets. Yet if you look at say Japan, its mostly induction cooking everywhere!

          Gas also leaks carbon monoxide into your house whether or not you are using it.

          100% number one reason to ditch it.

        • -3

          please do tell me how my gas cooktop leaks carbon monoxide into my house when its off.

          yer sure, shit tier quality cook wear will have hot spots with gas…but on the same electric will do the same……..and induction you need quality cook wear for it to even work.

          tell me now…. how do you wok cook on electric?

          Your comment about japan is correct, but not for the reasons you are suggesting. I would argue that induction electric is used because of the prevalence of apartment living in japan, the cost of gas and the cheapness of those portable electric induction units and not because they are better surfaces to cook on.

          If electric induction is so great, why isn't the whole hospitality industry using it…instead of gas

      • +1

        electric cook tops are absolutely shit house

        Clearly never cooked with induction!!

        Fast, instant heat that reacts like gas. Cut the power, and the boiling instantly stops like gas for example.

        Easier to clean and oh doesn't try to kill you by leaking CO/fumes into the house.

        • pro tip 1; cook tops which are off don't leak CO into your house

          pro tip 2; if you are worried about CO from a cooktop killing you in your house…then there's something very wrong with your cooktop or your house or both

          • +1

            @MrThing: Sorry not carbon monoxide, but they leak methane and nitrogen oxides even when off

            https://www.aarp.org/health/healthy-living/info-2022/gas-sto…

            https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2022-01-27/gas-cooker-me…

            Nitrogen oxides are a respiratory hazard and methane is a powerful greenhouse gas

            • -2

              @Quantumcat: sure, you cant disagree with the science that NOx's are bad - but I highly doubt the amount produced when frying the bacon and eggs is of a high enough level to be worried about especially if you live or walk around urban areas where cars drive.

              methane isnt toxic in the levels that would be released from a gas cooktop (I believe isnt toxic in any concentration, but methane will displace air, so it will asphyxiate you)

              and anyway, a properly installed kitchen will have an exhaust fan to outside - regardless of electric or gas - both will still create cooking fumes (steam, smells, oily steam, etc) - I dare say this would mitigate any health worries regarding to combustion by products whilst cooking.

              anyway, like my asian sisters & brothers, I like wok cooking so electric or induction just will not do.

              • @MrThing:

                but I highly doubt the amount produced when frying the bacon and eggs is of a high enough level to be worried about

                The point is it leaks constantly when not being used

          • @MrThing:

            pro tip 1; cook tops which are off don't leak

            Nope, do some reading, these suckers leak even when off.

            and anyway, a properly installed kitchen will have an exhaust fan to outside

            Not a legal requirement BTW. So you can't assume this.

            • -2

              @JimmyF: pro tip 3; learn how to quote, unless your a journalist or a politician…quote the entire statement, not just the part you want to. "cook tops which are off don't leak CO into your house". If you have no combustion you have no CO

              pro tip 4; don't make assumptions, it'll make an ass out of you. I never said it was a legal requirement nor did I say all houses have it, what I did say was, If you install a kitchen properly it will be ducted to outside.

              • @MrThing:

                If you have no combustion you have no CO

                Not disagreeing this statement, as I and others have said, gas cooktops still leak when turned off!

                I never said it was a legal requirement nor did I say all houses have it, what I did say was, If you install a kitchen properly it will be ducted to outside

                You did say

                I dare say this would mitigate any health worries regarding to combustion by products whilst cooking.

                News flash….. lots are not ducted outside as it is NOT a legal requirement. So yeah it WON'T mitigate any health worries now will it.

                • @JimmyF: Why everyone so aggressive. Chillax people!

  • I find ceiling vents to create more isolated heat than floor vents. The floor vents seem to distribute more evenly through the room. Whereas the ceiling are warm around the vents, but takes much longer to spread around. Floor heating feels more natural. Just my opinion…

    • I believe that too. Although it been a good while since I've been in a house with ceiling vents

  • +1

    We are currently building and can say a few things on this.

    • Use a good building inspector - the Geelong area has a good one called Manse Group or use Derbecca. We are using Landmark Inspections and they are pretty good ATM.

    • Insulation is some of the most important aspects of how well your house cools and heats so on the external walls, upgrade to R2.5 insulation and make sure all crevices like in between windows in properly sealed. I would also consider insulation in your internal walls at strategic spots.

    • Depending on your roofing (if it is tiles then make sure the insulation is upgrade to the ceiling batts insulation go up to R5.0 or 6.0. Price differences are not much and will save you a heap on energy costs to heat n cool your house). If using Colorbond, ensure that you have sarking or even better an anticon blanket.

    • We are going a ducted heating and refrigerated cooling (Daikin unit with zoning and temperature control).

    • You could do multiple splits of varying sizes in the main BR, the BR's and living areas for heating and cooling, it is cheaper than a refrigerated system and if one unit goes down all you need to do is service that unit… if you don't mind the unit sticking out of your wall and using controllers for each unit. For the bathrooms use those bathroom heating lamps for those cool winter mornings. It is a life saver. Alternatively, go evap for cooling and a 5 star gas heating ducted. As some have said though, I would consider ditching the gas.

    • Incorporate solar into your home setup to reduce electricity costs.

    Hope this helps.

    • Interested why you chose refrigerated vs evaporative cooling as we are also trying to decide. .

      As I understand refrigerated its much more expensive to install and to run, can be zoned (evaporative cannot). Refrigerated can use the same ceiling ducts where evaporative cannot. Only negative for me is the ongoing cost of refrigerated to run which I am trying to justify before deciding.

      • +1

        We decided on refrigerated as we wanted the cooling and heating to be provided by the same vents. We considered more efficient ducted gas heating and evap cooling. Decided on refrigerated as I can't stand any sort of humidity, but thats just me. We will combine it with our solar system to keep costs in check while running it.

        For us the cost of installing a more efficient gas heating and the evap cooling system was about $4k ish less than the refrigerated system so if you are on a budget then I would consider an evap setup as the cost to run is very cheap but we didn't want to use Gas heating. It just doesn't perform very well in humid weather though evap. Remember though evap req more regular servicing with the pads and cleaning etc.

        Going back to my previous points though, if you get your insulation right your house should remain at a decent temperature regardless.

      • +1

        Because when its 35 degrees and above, that evap cooling is not going to stop you feeling hot. It won't be very effective on high humidity days either. If your main concern is running cost then yes, get evap. If your main concern is actually cooling down your house on very high temperature days, get refrigerated. Of course if you invest in good insulation/windows/etc then you won't even need to run the cooling until the temp outside is quite high (eg 33+)

      • Depending on your location - evaporative is pretty bad in cold climates. Even if it works well in summer - in winter you have a massive hole in the roof and all the warm air disappears. https://thefifthestate.com.au/columns/spinifex/evaporative-c…

  • Ducted vents distributing from a wood fire are excellent.

    If you’re doing a new build though, that’d imply you are referring to a ducted reverse cycle aircon which is also quite reasonable. Biggest factor is reducing air leakage and putting in lots of insulation to get your efficiency rating as high as you can afford. As long as each room has a return air path to the inlet you’ll have no issues with heat.

  • if you're having air intake opening at the lower end of the floor it'll not be that hard, last house I have ducted heating outlet on the ceiling and inlet near floor level and it worked ok, much faster to heat up than my current place having both inlet and outlet on the ceiling. My current place also have poor insulation from bottom to the top so there's not much to compare. But I found using reverse cycle air con does a reasonable job at keeping the place warm, energy cost is about the same, but haven't got the money to get it covered the whole house so it's a hybrid use at the moment.

  • I have ducted ceiling vents and have previously had floor vents. It make very little difference other than

    • floor vents restrict where you can put furniture, but are fantastic for drying clothes in the winter. Ceiling vents not as effective
    • floor vents allow you to stand on them when you are cold (or your toes are cold)
    • ceiling vents are a bit more obtrusive/visible, although you dont notice them after a few months
    • if you do find the ceiling vents arent as effective, you just run the heater a bit higher. Yes it might add a little bit to your heating bills, but its not an insurmountable problem by any means.

    As others have said, insulate. Also, go electric R/C with a few zones, stay away from gas, its very expensive.

    Its a bit extravagant to get evap as well as reverse cycle, but evap cooling is much nicer. However, you have to run different ducting so you end up with twice as many holes in the ceiling. So a reverse cycle system is probably the best option. If you instal solar, you can run it during the day for very little cost (of course you need it most at night, but you can make it all toasty for when you get home)

  • look at heating in the concrete slab then, wont be cheap

    • I've looked into it. However, I hate to image what needs to be done if the coils fails haha

      • Same as anything through the slab.
        Plumbing is in the slab.
        If you have island bench you will likely have electrical cables in conduit in slab

  • +1

    Ducted Heating Vent on the celling – are they’re effective.

    Yes

  • +1

    I don't have a problem with Ceiling Ducts but I have good insulation and air mixes.

    Even with floor ducts, the hot air rises…

    I assume you will have carpet (except kitchen/bathroom)

    Geelong can be cold though.

    Have you looked at In-Slab Hydronic Heating or In Screed Hydronic Heating?

  • +3

    If you're doing a new build consider hydronic. Either in the floor or as radiators. The ultimate luxury in heating. They can be powered by heat pumps so you can still avoid gas. Heat pump hydronics also provide cooling.

  • +2

    Spend extra on passive heating and cooling. An off the shelf design won’t be energy efficient, it’ll work out in the long run to get someone to design an efficient home. Northern windows to heat floor, shaded in summer, insulation, insulation, insulation, cross breezes, rooms that can be partitioned to reduce the area heated and cooled etc.

    Putting in a big heating or cooling system to overcome poor design is not smart.

  • In Geelong here with ducted gas heating with vents in the ceiling - no issues at all. Had the unit serviced and inspected after we moved in in July to be sure all fine, and away it goes. With floorboards throughout the living areas, its hard not to feel 'cool' underfoot - but god bless the man that invented socks.

    Make sure to keep the intake vent filter clean and it will run a lot more efficient/quieter.

    Biggest impact will be how you zone your system and ducting. Make sure you get that right how you want it as once its in, it will be expensive/difficult to re-do.

  • Nobody has mentioned the fact that floor vents get a lot dirtier than ceiling vents. Dust, hair, crumbs etc will all fall into the vent.

    • -1

      Nobody has mentioned if you have ceiling vents and play Lionel Ritchie "Dancing on the Ceiling" your problems will be solved either. lol

  • Check out this forum when you want to build an efficient house. So much information there:
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/MyEfficientElectricHome/

    A ceiling fan could be the solution when you have heating vents in the ceiling. Biggest impact on the comfort of the house will be proper insulation.

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