Hardwiring Jump Starter Connections

I've got the ozbargin famous gooloo jump starter, it's it possible to buy some connectors to hardwire a jump starter connection.

I've got a few bikes and batterys are a nightmare to get 2. So will run these under side covers ect ect

So it will be basicly these. Well I presume there ec5's
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/384687472112?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norov…

Comments

  • +2

    As long as the gauge of the wire is at least as big as comes standard with the jump starter sounds like you have everything covered.

  • I believe those connectors will work for you, though it's worth noting that you'd be bypassing the box head at the start of the jumper cables.
    I'm not sure exactly what the box does, only that it contains a relay that is triggered when the jumper leads are attached to a battery/ another voltage source.

    Going over the terminals on a fully charged jumper pack with a multimeter just now - the EC5 terminals are live all the time with 16.5 volts.
    There is also a tiny pin between those terminals that supplies +5 volts to the box head.

    With the jumper leads attached - the jumpers are not live unless you press the boost button (or apply a voltage to the jumpers first). I guess the +5 volts going to the box head is to trigger the relay in the absense of battery.

    So it would make sense that the boost button needs to be pressed if you're starting a car with a completely dead battery (or no battery at all).

    In the case of your motorcycle, it'll be getting 16 volts as soon as you connect the EC5 terminal to the power pack.

    • I think the connector is called a cp1000 so my only real issue now is if ec5's are comparable with the cp1000's

      Prolly just to stop people shorting out the clamps.
      May also have some polarity checker in it.

      Guess I'll order some and try my luck

  • +4

    What you want to do with motorcycles is have them on trickle chargers. Letting them run down to dead and then jump starting them is going to kill the batteries and put a lot of strain on the alternator. There is also a good chance that even if you get it started, the battery might be cactus and will let you down while you are out riding.

    You need to look at solving the cause of the issue and not just putting a quick fix on it. Find out why the batteries are going flat. Sitting for a long time? Residual current draw, electrical issue? Crap battery?

    I have jumper connections on my bikes because of impossible battery locations (See 2010 Ducati Monster battery.) and have jumper leads hooked up (XT90 plugs) and I use them as trickle charger ports. Never had to use them for jump starting.

    • I do keep them on trickle chargers. Noco units.

      My road glide uses a lithium and will offer no sign of failing, where a lead acid would be doscile and a sure sign it's time to replace.

      Battery's are not going flat or showing signs of failing but sooner or later they will.

      Issue is I have a large audio system 1600wrms and tour on the bike, plus both Harley's have built high compression motors

  • I've got all my 12v stuff wired with the grey 50a Anderson plugs. Significantly bigger but I can use them for jumpstarting diesels without any issues. Also means my CTEK charger can plug into anything without worrying about the clamps.

  • While the gooloo jump starter does have an EC5 looking connector on the power bank section, you actually need to use the cable part with the clamps.

    It has some electronics inside of the black box which are required in the jump starting process.

  • I was thinking about hardwiring in a jump starter on a race car.

    What started me thinking was that lead acid batteries are heavy, and have to be big to provide enough starting amps. Whereas the obvious much lighter alternative, LiFePO4 batteries, are way lighter than lead acid batteries, and have a far longer life, but they can't supply enough starting current.

    My idea was I'd wire up a gooloo or similar directly to the solenoid on the starter motor, so when I pressed the start button the jump starter would provide ALL the amps to start the engine. Then I'd wire a small light LiFePO4 battery to recharge the jump starter, and power the other stuff in the car. And have that recharged by the alternator, and kept solar trickle charged. Because the main battery wasn't providing the starting current, only enough to recharge the jump starter, so it didn't need big thick short cables to the starter motor, it could be relocated to a more convenient location in the car.

    The obvious problem with that is if the car doesn't start the first time, you can't try again until the jump starter recharges its internal batteries.

    • Whereas the obvious much lighter alternative, LiFePO4 batteries, are way lighter than lead acid batteries, and have a far longer life, but they can't supply enough starting current

      Yes they can.

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