Help or Advice Needed on Noise Coming from Wheel/Bearing Area - Kia Rio

Danger on 27/10/2022 - 00:12
Last edited 27/10/2022 - 09:34 by 1 other user

Looking for some advice on clicking noise coming out from front wheel area. Upon taking some photos, I could see one of cable is touching the bearing and it's got damaged at the end. So far I'm not seeing any dash warning due to this. Car is Kia Rio 2007 Hatch.

Refer to the first image 'problem' for an idea on what that cable is, followed by zoomed in photo of damage/issue. Third image is from passenger side wheel, which appears to be normal.

Questions: Does anyone know what that cable is and what it does?
Did anyone go through this type of issue and how much did it cost to fix?

Problem

Problem zoomed in

Normal

Thanks

Automotive Car Kia

Comments

  • UnternamenBernhard on 27/10/2022 - 00:18

    What kind of noise?

    • Danger on 27/10/2022 - 00:22
      +1

      Continuous clicking noise

    • bobbified on 27/10/2022 - 00:24

      Kinda like this noise…

      • UnternamenBernhard on 27/10/2022 - 00:32

        Ok weee sounds more like cable is running against that toothed part. It has a sensor there. Don't know what it is maybe speedo, maybe tacho, maybe braking & traction control. Can you take a photo looking up from the gap between the toothed cog and the sensor?
        Edit: also I think your driver's side hub has worn through its seal and it's weeping- front bearings & bearing seals will probably need replacing in God knows how many months- but I'd suggest when you get your front pads replaced.

  • UnternamenBernhard on 27/10/2022 - 00:22

    Is it when you turn or drive straight?

    • Danger on 27/10/2022 - 00:24

      Noise comes out no matter driving straight or turn.

  • UnternamenBernhard on 27/10/2022 - 00:26
    +1

    2007- that's a 15 year old car- I'm thinking you need new CV joints. Not a huge job or huge expense- some places will swap you newly replaced CV shafts for your old ones. I did that many a year as a mechanic. Any idea if they have been replaced since bought?
    Edit: PS where are you living- because I could point you to such a business if I knew roughly where you were (city & direction will do ie "Northern suburbs, Melbourne")?

    • Danger on 27/10/2022 - 00:39

      Thanks mate but I'm in Brisbane. What's the ball park $$ for CV shaft replacement.

      • UnternamenBernhard on 27/10/2022 - 00:42

        Not sure if that's your problem now- I think it's more your sensor rubbing against that toothed cog part. CV shaft replacement can cost between $300-$750. Cheaper if you go to a specialist CV joint guy and get him to take out old CV's and replace. Should be $250 or less.
        You can google my search terms: "new cv joint shafts Queensland swap old shafts for new". There's quite a few places even in Queeny that may do it for less than $300.

  • jv on 27/10/2022 - 00:26
    +5

    Why don't you take it to a car mechanic?

    • UnternamenBernhard on 27/10/2022 - 00:29

      because mechanics prey on uninformed and unenlightened customers for $$$ for beer, smokes and Ladbrokes?

      • Danger on 27/10/2022 - 00:36
        +1

        Agree, in the past, I got stung by a local mechanic for not knowing beforehand what is the real problem for car overheating.

        • newjerseydamo on 27/10/2022 - 07:54
          +3

          You'll change your mind pretty quickly when the wheel comes off mid-drive.
          A wheel bearing is something you don't want to mess with by delaying it getting inspected/fixed.

          Take it to a mechanic.

        • jv on 27/10/2022 - 09:14

          I got stung by a local mechanic

          Find a better one then.

    • 87percent on 27/10/2022 - 08:32

      Too logical.. rather ask randoms on the Internet and show them a picture of a wheel

  • trex on 27/10/2022 - 01:02
    +4

    That’s the ABS speed sensor and rotor. If there’s an error with the system, the ABS check light should stay on. Is your ABS working properly?

  • pegaxs on 27/10/2022 - 08:00
    +1

    The cable is not touching the bearing, that is the ABS sensor mounted in place and reading the reluctor ring as it should. And it won’t be causing any clicking noise, because, if it was, it would be throwing ABS faults on your dash.

    Now, does clicking noise get faster with engine speed, or faster with road speed?

    • Danger on 27/10/2022 - 10:22

      I think it's touching the reluctor ring and as a result, it's ruptured at the end. Noise rema ok n same with engine or road speed.

      • pegaxs on 27/10/2022 - 11:03

        I think it's touching the reluctor ring and as a result, it's ruptured at the end

        Highly doubtful, as this would damage the ABS sensor and throw faults. And unless you hit something, there is no reason why the sensor would contact the ring. They run a pretty close tolerance anyway and you would see the damage on the sensor or the ring.

        Noise rema ok n same with engine or road speed.

        This I don't know how to translate. The clicking either gets faster the quicker the engine revs. Or it gets faster the faster the car goes down the road.

        If it does it going in a straight line AND when turning a corner, then I doubt it is CV joints, they usually click when the wheels are turned, not straight. It could be a wheel bearing, or as silly as this sounds, I have had customers come in and it has been a rock in the tread or a screw in the tyre.

        Trying to diagnose these things over a forum without being there and hearing it in person is virtually impossible. We can throw ideas out to you all day, but you really need someone with some knowledge to at least have a listen, test and recommend a solution. It is not going to be something you can just fix with a 2 second fix. (unless it is a rock or a puncture.)

        • Danger on 27/10/2022 - 12:22

          My bad…I should have answered it properly. Clicking noise only comes when car is moving and it's a same amount of noise regardless of road speed. There's no noise when vehicle is stationary and when i rev the engine.

          • trex on 27/10/2022 - 16:01
            +1

            @Danger: If frequency of clicking does not increase with road speed, it is probably not wheel related.

          • Gravy on 27/10/2022 - 16:58
            +1

            @Danger: Oh… that's interesting. Perhaps its the ABS system itself that is clicking, or a faulty relay or something, maybe caused by incorrect reading due to the crud on the sensor (ABS thinks your wheel is locking up when its not and attempts to apply ABS).

            What is the frequency of the click? Several times per second or less?

            Does it start clicking immediately on car movement or only once you reach 10kmh or something?

            • Danger on 27/10/2022 - 17:07

              @Gravy: Yeah..I haven't thought about that scenario of ABS attempting to apply when it shouldn't. Clicks are several times in second. I haven't noticed the speed it starts to click but I will soon try and find out. Thanks

  • brendanm on 27/10/2022 - 08:54
    +1

    Your abs speed sensor has a whole bunch of smutz stuck to it. Clean it off. It is very unlikely to be your clicking noise though.

  • newbo on 27/10/2022 - 09:13

    Have you contacted council?

  • JimmyF on 27/10/2022 - 09:25
    +1

    CV joints are worn out, take it to a mechanic to be fixed.

  • AndyC1 on 27/10/2022 - 09:49
    +1

    See if you can get the workshop manual for the car and look up that it is yourself and see if you can fix it yourself.

  • Gravy on 27/10/2022 - 09:59

    What is that goop on the sensor next to the toothed wheel? Tar or grease maybe? Possibly a small stone stuck in the grease and clicking on every tooth (although it would probably work its way out pretty quick if just in grease, maybe not so fast with tar)?

    Does any part of the toothed wheel appear to have worn? This might indicate where it is catching. Or there may actually be a stone caught in one of the teeth itself?

    Also, check in the valley folds of the rubber CV boot (poke your finger down into them), are there any cracks in the rubber indicating your CV boot/joint may have failed and lost it's grease?

    • Danger on 27/10/2022 - 12:05

      Goop on the sensor is due to its rubbing and grinding on reluctor ring (toothed wheel).

      • Gravy on 27/10/2022 - 12:55

        I just had another look at your zoomed photo, am I right in assuming there are actually two cables/hoses visible in that image?

        The one on the right side of the image is attached to the ABS sensor, and then there is another one on the left side of the image that is harder to see but is rubbing on the teeth?

        If so, could it be a brake hose, and the goop is melted rubber? Has it broken completely through or just external damage to the hose? Have you noticed reduced braking?

        The other thought I had is maybe its an aircon drain hose although would be oddly positioned and very long unless someone has fitted an extension onto it for some reason, is it hollow or does it have a cable inside it?

  • Euphemistic on 27/10/2022 - 17:05

    Doesn’t look like anything is seriously rubbing on the ring. It’s not overly damaged. Has the sensor locked up some road debris that you could remove with a gentle scrape? No harm in trying.

    If the noise doesn’t change frequency with road speed or engine speed it’s an odd one. Something caught in the AC fan?

    Very hard to diagnose without being there and hearing it.

  • Danger on 28/10/2022 - 10:25
    +2

    Update! I took this car to the mechanic and confirmed that wheel bearing needs replacing. The lump I saw at the end of ABS cable is just a pile coming out of bearing. ABS cable is not touching the reluctor ring. I've yet get a quote from them.

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