Looking at this sticker : https://imgur.com/a/mjCFtiq
It seems like it needs at least a Premium 95(Caltex) or Unleaded 98(Costco). But then it also says E10 Fuel suitable - does that mean regular (cheapest) petrol can be used as well? Sorry, its really confusing as Shell's website says Shell Unleaded E10 has a minimum 94 octane - so E10 is not meeting the min requirements?
Which Fuel Type Is Suitable? Sticker Says Min 95 RON but Also Says E10 Suitable
smishra on 02/11/2022 - 17:35
Poll Options
- 58E10
- 140Premium 95
- 12Premium 98/Unleaded 98
Comments
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Overseas is very broad but I get ya
Australian E10 isn't just 94RON, it's actually 94.7RON as per my other post. Are you really expecting cars to struggle with 0.3RON difference? The fact that some servos might substitute U91 instead of E10 and still sell it as E10 is what I would be concerned with. Most wouldn't though.
95RON outputs 10% extra than 91RON fuel
Tried and tested in both camry and outlander.
There for i get costco membership and fill up 95RON
Costco has 95? I thought just 91 or 98
95 Premium. Case closed.
considering ethanol has a significantly higher RON rating than petrol (100 vs 87), i've always assumed the very convenient rating of 94 RON for Australia's E10 is just a scam to make people spend the extra 15-20c for 95 RON cars. have been happily running a 95 RON motorbike on E10 for more than a decade
How old is your motorcycle? The reason most euro cars specify E95 here in Australia is the sulphur content of our 91 and E10 is very high and it can cause damage to modern euro engines.
However 95 is more processed (? not sure exactly) and it removes a lot of that sulphur.
2009
The maximum sulphur limits are the same for 95 and 98, not a question of processing, just what the regulations allow.
The actual sulphur content in 91 might be the same as 98, if a refinery installs technology to capture sulphur out of fuel (and sell it), they aren't going to go out of their way to disable it when producing 91.
E10 if you're in a pinch. The engine knock sensors will retard the timing, and your engine will be fine, but it'll waste power doing so. Also, not sure of long term issues doing this consistently.
If you have a choice, always choose premium 95 RON. That's what your engine is designed for. Guaranteed least amount of stress on the engine management system.
98 RON will work just as well as 95 RON. But that's it. It'll only work just as well. Your engine can't use it to its full extent. Other than possible additives, no advantage of 98 RON over 95 RON for you.
I do my own DIY ECU tuning. Short answer is E10 will be absolutely fine for commuting and cause no engine damage. For performance driving your ECU and engine can make the most of 95 RON fuel but not benefit from 98 RON.
Manufacturer ECU maps are tuned over cautiously and are detuned already to accomodate for dodgy stuff like owners using the wrong fuel, tanks of contaminated fuel, random chemistry situations, old sensors, dynamically changing environments, etc.
You'll only need the highest RON fuel for extreme situations or performance driving. Eg. high engine RPM, hot summer weather, towing, etc.
High RON numbers are not needed for slow driving. Eg. a 98 RON car can idle all day on 91 RON with zero engine knock as resistance to pre-detonation isn't a problem at low engine speeds and low engine load.
Go with the 94 RON E10. Besides Shell guarantees a "minimum of 94 RON" but that doesn't stop the actual RON being 95 for the E10. Its just a legal minimum.
Finally a post that isnt full of stupid consumer grade folk stories.
Good post. As per my other post linking to the fuel standard legislation, actual average observed E10 octane is 94.7RON. Very, very close and well within tolerance I would say.
As long as servos or wholesalers don't sell U91 as E10. Some servos sell E10 as up to 10% ethanol and at least 91RON, so they could put whatever they wanted in. Most wouldn't due to cost reasons though. They'd just turn off the E10 pumps when they ran out. That's a sign of a good servo.
Did you scan the QR code for more info?
E10 ran my C2005 Camry for 15 years, no problems.
Kia Stinger (twin turbo GT) says E10 ok, so that's what it gets. YMMVIt sounds like a Skoda / VW.
The e10 isn't referring to octane. It is referring to maximum ethanol content.
In Europe you can get 95ron e10.
In your case, "minimum 95RON with a maximum 10%ethanol."
Do they measure it the same as us though? I know the US using a different system
Yes. RON (Research Octane Number) is a standardised measurement used in Europe and Australia.
I believe the USA uses AKI (Anti Knock Index).
I've owned Euro cars for the past 16 years. What you were asking about has been on the fuel flap for at least that long. Plenty of folk have asked about iy on other forums
Use RON95. At least you know that your car will handle E10 if you're short on cash and need a top up. Don't stray from those recommendations. For example, I love my Subaru's, but those boxer engines go to shit if you don't use RON95/98 and the repairs on them are super expensive.
You referring to turbo models? Never heard any issues with 91RON in the non-turbo Subaru vehicles I've driven over the years.
Both of my cars (one min RON95 and the other RON91) hate ethanol and run significantly noisier so I don't use E10 for that reason.
You probably have turbo charged engine and while it can run on E10, I wouldn't.If you want to be cheap and be safe, run half tank 98 and half tank E10 therefore it will be couple together and be like 96 E10☺️
I have the exact same label on my car. Do you happen to drive a Ford Euro car (Puma/Focus/Fiesta)?
They have GPF filters and you will damage them if you put in E10 due to its high sulfur content since it is blended with 91 (150PPM). 95 and 98 are 50PPMThese are the maximum sulfur ratings. In the wild, U91 sulfur is in the 30's. See the fuel standard document i linked in another post. Premium are in teens or less from memory. Really only detectable differences in laboratory conditions.
Have a buddy with a euro car that's got 160k km.
Its ran 91 all its life pretty much from new, and recently he only discovered its rated for 95+
Its always ran rough a bit but surprisingly has lasted this long..You have to put 50% of each fuel exactly or your car will explode
lol peasants still driving ICE cars. hahahahahahaha
Better for the environment to keep your existing car than immediately buying an electric car, especially since future production of electric cars still have a much smaller carbon footprint than right now.
Also battery tech (among other things) is going to be very different and immensely better than what you're currently getting.
I was an early adopter of new technology with the Mazda R100. (Showing my age) Never again.
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Yup you're right was meant to say E10 here is 94. Overseas where the car was built and also sold it's 95 hence the sticker