Fat tyre Ebike to travel to work in WA

Hi All,
thanks to everyones suggestions from here https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/727568
Im settled on getting an ebike to get to work which is 11km of mostly bikepath (less than 2km on road).
There is one huge hill - distance 0.26km, Elevation Gain 38m Avg Grade 14.4%
Ive been looking at the dirodi fat tyre bike https://www.dirodi.com.au/product/dirodi-rover-plus-retro-fa…
or the competing ampd brothers one https://ampdbros.com.au/collections/electric-bikes/products/…

The main positives are:
Removable battery - so i can charge in the work office (There is charge station in the bike locker)
Kickstand
looks cool
Amp bros - able to purchase additional battery so theorectically will last a long time.

The negatives are:
fat tyres on bikepath - is that a negative?

edit 1 25/11: i have 2 road bikes already, Im looking for a ebike to make that trip easier as im returning from injury.

What are your thoughts?

TIA

Comments

  • +3

    Fat tyres aren’t great for regular cycling. They are a lot heavier and therefore take more energy to spin up. Having a motor will help, but it’s still an issue. Fat tyres are also more expensive and harder to find than regular sized bike tyres. Fat tyres also tend to bounce over stuff - there’s no camping of the spring effect like with shock absorbers.

    As you have a road bike I presume you ride reasonably regularly and these bikes might be a compromise on cycling position. Does the saddle adjust enough to get comfortable for a 30-40min ride twice a day. They look more like a novelty/cruiser bike designed for very short trips and to look good.

    Lastly, these are both hub drive motors. A mid drive motor will be able to take advantage of the drivetrain gears and provide more torque for hills.

    Your budget is not far off a quality bike-brand e bike which will provide a better riding position, better gearing and a mid drive.

    • ok cheers
      i have a fancy race bike and an endurance bike, so am looking at add an ebike to the clan.
      Coming back from injury so cant make it up the hill which is on the way to work.

  • -1

    For that kind of money, and the fact you are doing 11km each way, why don’t you just get a Honda Grom? If you want to go electric, get something like a SuperSoco TS or TC if you want that whole pseudo-motorcycle thing.

    • -1

      why don’t you just get a Honda Grom

      OP writes:

      11km of mostly bikepath

      You need a refresher on what can be legally ridden on bike paths.

      If you want to go electric, get something like a SuperSoco TS or TC

      And then spend an additional $2500 over the next five years on rego, third party insurance etc. Not legal (at least in NSW) to simply roll your motorbike onto a footpath to park it, either. And there's no way I'd suit-up in protective motorcycle riding gear for an 11km trip.

      I own a motorcycle and it has its place. But it's not for a super-short commute like OP is facing.

      • You need a refresher on what can be legally ridden on bike paths.

        And there are absolute no roads whatsoever between OP's house and work? Nothing but bike paths?? The motorcycle would get them there quicker and more comfortably.

        And then spend an additional $2500 over the next five years on rego

        My electric motorcycle is $77 CTP, $136 rego, $160 3rd party only per year. That works out to be about $1865 over 5 years. Or, about $375/year or a little over $1/day. All OP has to do is hit one car on the road section or hit one pedestrian on the footpath/bike path section and that $375/year is starting to look very cheap…

        Not legal (at least in NSW) to simply roll your motorbike onto a footpath to park it

        Why? It's a vehicle, you are allowed to park it where all the other "vehicles" park, FFS.

        And there's no way I'd suit-up in protective motorcycle riding gear for an 11km trip.

        It's 11km of what I am guessing is mostly city/town commute. A lightweight jacket, helmet and gloves. You don't need your one piece Dainese leather suit, your Alpinestar GP racing gloves, O'Neil motorcross boots and Arai SBK level helmet…

        But it's not for a super-short commute like OP is facing.

        This is exactly what these small bikes and electric motorcycles are built for and excel at, the whole "short commute" thing. Christ, I live 4km from work and the biggest reason I bought an electric scooter was because "why the (fropanity) would I drive a car 4km?". 11km each way on a bicycle is not a "short commute". On an electric motorcycle or small capacity motorcycle, it's the ideal range.

        I own a motorcycle and it has its place.

        That's right… YOUR motorcycle has its place. I wouldn't ride a 1200cc BMW GS adventure bike 11km each way every day, but I sure as hell would ride a super-motard or a Vespa that distance every day. Horses for courses.

    • always wanted to learn how to ride a motorcycle, but not interested thanks (seen enough accidents and its Perth - we cant even merge lanes properly)

  • I had a similar use case in mind (including a few terrain challenges) when I purchased a new ebike.

    I wanted
    * a comfortable/relaxed riding position
    * plenty of cargo space
    * lots of torque
    * good battery
    * above-average build quality

    I looked at
    * Super73
    * ET Cycle
    * Dirodi
    * Ampd Bros
    * Some rando no-name from eBay

    I ended up buying
    * The ET Cycle F1000 (with the 21Ah battery)

    More than 12 months on, I am happy with my decision. My heart was set on a Super73 S2E or Ampd Bros Ace X Plus UNTIL I test-rode each of them. I realised that I preferred the comfort and riding position afforded by a traditional seat. And the step-through design of the F1000 was better for me in Sydney CBD's stop-start traffic. Oodles of torque to pull my 90kg up steep inclines. Longest ride I've done so far is a 113km round trip. I've only folded it up a couple of times for transport which works just fine - but at 34kg it's good to have someone else nearby so you don't accidentally scratch-up your boot.

    As @Euphemistic mentions above, you DON'T buy a fat tyre bike for efficiency - rolling resistance is a thing. But not worrying about every crack/rock/piece of glass/patch of sand or dirt in front of you is worth it. I still have my non-electric road bike and hybrid bike, but a fatty is great for an urban commuter. Just make sure you try before you buy.

    • But not worrying about every crack/rock/piece of glass/patch of sand or dirt in front of you is worth it

      You can get that with standard mountain bike tyres run tubeless. Fat bike tyres are really only good for looks and actually riding on a beach or in the snow. I have a fat bike that I use on beach holidays to ride up and down the beach. Some of the time it’s a 29” MTB with 2.2 tyres and it’s got plenty of grip and comfort. My commuter is however, a flat bar roadie with 23mm tyres. Fast, but got to be careful and it’s not smooth to ride. I’ve had a few pinch flats from hitting things when the pressure is a bit low. Next tyres will be 25mm or possible 28mm

      • Fat tyres allow you to run low PSIs which can provide a bit of comfort. 28mm is not that far from being fat.

        • Hope that’s tongue in cheek. True fat bike tyres are more like 4” (100mm), even mountain bike tyres are really considered ‘fat’ at 2.4” or 60mm

          • @Euphemistic: Ah I got mixed up, thought that was 2.8inch. don't really use mm in tyre or bike sizes. mine's 4". Bought it over the MTB while may also does the job due to. 1: has rear rack/fenders which can be a pain to fit on MTB. 2: Step through.

            • +1

              @OzHan: mm for tyres is for roadies - because Europe.

              Inches for tyres is MTB - because backwards system used by USA.

    • ok cheers
      I got infaturated with the super73 but it is $$$$
      saw this guy import from alibaba https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQLO8lfuQrU&t=366s

      will defitely go for a test ride. cheers

  • Laws are fecking DUMB in WA….

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