Good deal as RRP incresed
can price beat with SCA for further reduction $24.50
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/meguiars-meguiars-ultima…
Meguiar's Ultimate Wash & Wax 1.42 Litre. $24.95 (RRP $42.95) + Delivery ($0 C&C/ in-Store/ $99 Order) @ Auto One
190
georgev on 17/06/2023 - 12:14 autoone.com.au (447 clicks)
Last edited 19/06/2023 - 13:47 by 1 other user
Last edited 19/06/2023 - 13:47 by 1 other user
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Works well in a foam cannon
Meguiars Gold Class foams MUCH better (I have both)
Usually more expensive and afaik no wax in that though. W&W foams good enough for me and better than some other products specifically designed for foam application. Bit old now but there is/was a video on SCA website comparing 3 or 4 foaming products. That and the price per wash was why I bought and use it. No complaints at all.
Probably more suited to those that won't wax or seal their vehicle unless that sealant is near it's end of life. Using soaps that leave something behind will change the look and characteristics of you existing sealant. Eg. Your vehicle could become less hydrophobic. Not sure why someone would want to do this.
For a wax/sealed car use something that doesn't leave something behind. Eg. Gold class has been recommended. For a ceramic coated car go an alkaline based wash. Eg. NV Care Snow+I use it in between major washes and seals as I stated. After foaming and rinsing, the surface is significantly better than it was after sitting in the environment for weeks. I have no interest in ceramics or winning show and shine awards. Plenty of products do a very good job at a fair cost with minimal effort. I appreciate some people want the very best and spend hundreds of hours keeping their vehicle pristine. I'm somewhat below that, although I'm told otherwise occasionally.
One concern I have with foaming and rinsing only - is how to dry the car. If using the towel, it would likely scratch the paint with the rest of the dirt left, if left to dry - it would leave the deposits from the water.
@DmytroP: I always rinse first with a hose or the pressure washer, then foam, then rinse again, then dry with a BGS looking carefully at the surface as I go. Note this is when my vehicle is relatively clean. If your car is your pride and joy you could use a blower to remove most of the water as some detailers do in videos, AND do another foam/rinse.
How much product and dirt remains after the foam and rinse probably depends on how dirty is was, the state of your paint, how long it's been since it was properly sealed ("polished"), the product used, water quality (yep it's a thing in some areas), whether you washed in the sun etc etc. I get micro-scratches occasionally but these usually polish out. I'm not fussed about them because the vehicle is there to be used and looks good enogh cosmetically for its age. Different strokes for different folks.
If you're looking for the ultimate results there are many experts on Ozbargain to ask, and I don't mean that in a perjorative sense. They know what they're talking about and can put you on the right track as to products,
@Igaf: Thanks for the reply, if I only rinsed + foam + pressure washed, the car looked almost clean while wet, but BGS was quite dirty, so I was concerned to scratch it more.
I ended up washing less frequently but using the foam + pressure wash + two buckets wash and drying with the drying towel (I found the Twist Loop Microfiber Drying Towel from The Rag Company to work better than BGS btw).
@DmytroP: If your drying towel gets dirty then the wash/foam hasn't worked properly. Very likely you'll get micro-scratches from that. Probably too dirty to begin with. You could try a wash which works better the longer you leave it - eg CT 20 truck wash. Power rinse, truck wash, wait, rinse, foam wash and wax, rinse, dry. Can't recall now but I think I needed to re-seal after using CT20.
Works well in a foam cannon. Under $2 for a wash and very basic wax on relatively clean vehicles (in between big washes and seal/wax jobs)