2011 Hyundai i30 Auto - Engine Dies When idling

Mechanic is stumped so wondering if any OzBargainers can shed some light?

2011 i30 - Petrol 1.6lt Auto

Problem:
- When idling stopped at traffic lights, engine randomly dies
- Doesn't happen all the time, since it started it's about once every second drive on average. But it's random, sometimes can happen 3 times in a 30min drive. Other times been fine for 4-5 days.
- So far, each time when I try to restart, the first turn of the ignition the engine splutters, then second time it starts normally
- Most times after this restart the ESC light comes on, and the tachometer shows 0 rpm as I complete the drive. The tachometer is back to normal after I park and then drive the next day (I also do the full turn of the steering wheel to fix the ESC)
- Mechanic has scanned and found no error codes. He then tried cleaning out the throttle body and then replacing the ECU. Neither have helped resolve the issue

Going to take the car to another mechanic, but hoping someone on here might have some ideas on what to get them to look for?

Comments

  • +12

    Giraffe

    I can't help with the car but I can offer a giraffe fun fact.

    Did you know that a giraffe can grow up to 18 feet?

    I've only ever seen them with 4 but apparently it's true.

    • ghorses have hooves not feet

  • Is that a Hyundai tech? It will be an engine sensor (e.g. coolant temp).

    • Just a local mechanic, I guess taking it to Hyundai would be the next step?

      • +1

        Dealer techs have access to all of the Hyundai resources so offer the best chance of solving your issue.

        • Only dealer techs have got guts to ask for $5,000 for a $500 job too

          but yeah in case independent mechanic cannot figure out fault, they also keep adding costs by testing changing of different NON faulty things (+ labour ofcourse).

          So who knows may be dealer might be better in a case where problem is too difficult to identify. (but generally speaking its only the warranty period or discounted service period mainly when customers take vehicles to dealers (as it doesn't cost too much extra than other mechanics)m). But after this discounted servicing period dealers may not always have the best information that specific fault case scenario (although they should, especially if it was like a consumer case)

  • +3

    Fairly common error on some Kia's. From memory i think it was to do with crankshaft sensor

  • +2

    Probably worth replacing the fuel filter as well

  • +1

    Most times after this restart the ESC light comes on, and the tachometer shows 0 rpm

    Lack of RPM data will cause the ESC light, I think.

    I had this behaviour when the crank hall sensor was intermittently failing. But I had error codes, and loss of power.
    Data from ODB2 showed the engine RPMs even when the tacho was on zero.
    Strange that you have no error codes. The "check engine" light did not come on ever?

    My new part was $15 (aftermarket eBay), might be worth trying. "crank position sensor".

    • "Check engine" light has never come on that I have noticed (except for when engine dies all the warning lights come on, but when I restart they all disappear except ESC)

      Yeah it's weird the mechanic even duplicated the issue and still no error codes when he scanned. Is it worth me getting an OBD2 scanner to keep checking codes myself?

      Thanks for your tip on replacing crank position sensor - for $15 it's worth trying. Is it something that can be DIY or really needs a mechanic to do?

      • +1

        Everyone should have a ODB2 dongle. Connects to a phone app over bluetooth. (Maybe not on iPhone?)

        Search "elm327" on ebay.

        The crank sensor is very easy to replace, except you need to access from below, so jack the car up onto stands, unless you have a pit. I have the later model, so may not be the exact same part or position. Youtube helps.
        Order a MAF sensor while you are at it.

        • Thanks mate, you've been very helpful.

  • +1

    My wife's 2011 i30 did the same thing, minus showing 0 on the tachometer. Mechanics also were stumped and we ended up offloading it. Hyundai weren't much help either unfortunately.

    • Thanks for sharing and sorry you had to offload yours. Would be a shame if I have to as well, it's been a solid car until this.

  • +1

    Battery, crank angle sensor, MAF

  • hey i had the same issue but i even had 1 time when it randomly cut out when i was accelerating up a hill…that was scary AF …

    got dealer to suss it, couldnt find issue.
    got third party to check it out, again couldnt find issue.

    offloaded.

    its a shame , for what it was (had the diesel version), it was actually a zippy little pocket rocket and pretty good on fuel.

    • +1

      but i even had 1 time

      Was that on your way to band camp? 😉

    • Damn that's real scary!

  • Does anyone know about the MAF on an i30 GD 1.8l ? (next model after OP's)

    There is nothing between the air filter and throttle, so it must be buried in the air-intake that goes down to the bottom of the engine bay, and back up in the corner. Looks horrible to access, so I suppose you can pull it all out from underneath??
    It would be nice to be able to order the part before pulling the car apart, but I can't figure what part number I need. Is there a website which will help?

  • +2

    It would be nice to be able to order the part before pulling the car apart, but I can't figure what part number I need. Is there a website which will help?

    Put your VIN into this webpage. A lot of the parts come out of Dubai and are genuine.

    https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Hyundai

    • Awesome, so helpful, thanks! ! Looks like it has a "MAP sensor", not a MAF. Slowly becoming clear.
      $125 shipped for a simple sensor sounds a bit crazy. But I have the part number now, thanks!
      Off to Aliexpress I go. $12 tracked :)

      • +1

        Awesome, so helpful, thanks! ! Looks like it has a "MAP sensor", not a MAF.

        Diesels have both. They do two different applications. MAP is Mass Air Pressure for turbo boost, MAF is Mass Air Flow to measure the air flow and temp at the air box. It's usually fitted on the air box with a decent size plug on it. They can be removed, normally held on by two screws and cleaned with MAF cleaner. NEVER use throttle body cleaner, contact cleaner or WD40 type spray. Oh, and don't touch the wire or bulb on the MAF. You will need to remove the cable from the MAF.

        • Thanks. I've found where it is, not too hard to access. Was not going to try cleaning it, just replace. Hopefully fixes the occasional kicking or rough start.

  • Could be a number of things. Get it to Hyundai to check it over. I'm thinking some sort of sensor, maybe a vacuum leak on the intake side, possibly clogged fuel filter etc, lots of things that can cause this behaviour

  • +1

    I had this issue on a petrol car and it was the throttle body butterfly coated with some oil. Pay close attention to the edges by pushing it open an getting all the sides. Cleaning it with some carby cleaner did the trick might be worth a first try?

    • Thanks - my mechanic thought it was the throttle body at first so he gave it a very thorough clean apparently

      • +1

        If you can give it a try yourself might be good just to cross it off the list, should just involves taking off a clamp and removing the tubing into the TB, then you can push the butterfly open yourself and make sure you clean the edges really well. Sorry I had missed your mechanic cleaned out the TB in the original post but I basically thought my car was stuffed until I came across this fix which solved it completely, hoping it is the same for you.

        • +1

          Thanks for the tip, if it's fairly easy to DIY I might give it a try.

  • +1

    Your profile shows you're in Melbourne. Take it to The Automotive Clinic in Cheltenham Rd Dandenong. They specialise in weird and wacky stuff like this. Their TikTok account is incredible.

    • Thanks for the recommendation I will look into them

  • Looks like a second hand Toyota is worth the premium.

    • Yeah Toyotas never have any issues at all

      • As if

  • +5

    UPDATE:
    Got a cheap OBD2 scanner - initially no errors came up. But then I drove around with the scanner plugged in, and got it to stall again. Scanned again and sure enough - "Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor - circuit intermittent". Not sure why it didn't show up on my first scan or mechanic's scans - would it only show up if the scanner is plugged in at the time of issue?

    Got the part from eBay and the initial mechanic replaced it for me as I don't have a car jack and stands. So far has been all good after a few weeks of driving. Big thanks to everyone for the advice, especially @bargaino

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